Hair cleansers and conditioners Flashcards by doinke zzzz

Designed to:
- Remove all kinds of soilage
- beautify the hair and make it easier to handle

Shampoo

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Shampoos with active ingredients for preventing and treating dandruff

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOS

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Conditioner is designed to repair:

Chemical damage
(Bleaching, waving)
Environmental Damage
(Exposure to UV rays, salt
water and chlorine)
Physical Damage
(Includes excessive combing
or mechanical brushing)

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Designed to replace natural lipids removed by shampooing and facilitate hair managing and styling

conditioners

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applied after cleaning the hair as rinse-off or leave-on preparation

conditioners

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Remove sebum and dirt from the hair and scalp
Good foaming property
Non-irritating to the eyes
Acts as vehicle for the deposition of beneficial materials onto the hair and scalp
> Mainly refer to hair conditioning agents
> 2-in-1 products
> Shampoos with conditioners

Shampoo

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Surfactants
Thickeners
Water
Preservatives
Opacifiers and pearlescent agents
Conditioners
pH buffers
Chelating agents
Additional ingredients
> To support certain product claims
Active ingredients

Composition of shampoo

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Function:

Good cleansing

Anionic surfactant

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Examples of Anionic surfactant

Lauryl/laureth
sulfates,
sarcosinates,
sulfosuccinates

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Function:

Add softness and manageability

Added as conditioning agents,
owing to their affinity to negative charge of the hair

Cationic surfactants

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Examples of cationic surfactants

cetrimonium chloride

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Function:

Add foam and manageability

Commonly combined with non-ionics

Amphoteric surfactants

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Examples of Amphoteric surfactants

Betaines,
Alkyl amino acids

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Function:

Co-surfactants, rheology modifier
(enhance viscosity of the product)

Not very good cleansers

Non-ionic surfactants

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Examples of Non-ionic surfactants

Poloxamers,
Amine oxides

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Function:

Increase viscosity & product feel
Surfactant-based system

Thickeners

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Examples of thickeners

NaCl (or other low concentration
electrolytes), Gums, Cellulose,
Carbomer

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Project product formulation from
microbial contamination

Preservatives

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Examples of preservatives

Parabens,
Isothiazolones

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Function:

Add pearly,
shimmering effect
For aesthetic appeal

Opacifiers and pearlescent
agents

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Examples of Opacifiers and pearlescent agents

Polyglycol esters,
Latex opacifiers

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Function:

Makes hair soft and shiny

Conditioners

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Examples of conditioners

Quats, Glycerin, Silicones

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Function:

Shifts pH to neutral range

Especially important for shampoos
intended to be used after chemical
treatment like waving or bleaching the hair, which leaves the hair with an alkaline pH

pH buffers

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Examples of pH buffers

Citric acid, Glycolic acid

Function: Binds metal ions Metal ions are present in water which may cause instability

Chelating agents

Examples of chelating agents

EDTA

Function: Affects product feel or appearance

Additional ingredients

Examples of additional ingredients

Colorant, Perfumes, Botanical extracts, Vitamins

Function: Special effects

Active ingredients

Examples of active ingredients

antidandruff actives

Function: Vehicle for liquid shampoos

Water

Types of shampoo

- normal hair shampoo - oily hair shampoo - dry hair shampoo - Everyday shampoos - Deep cleansing shampoos - Baby shampoos - Gray hair shampoos - Hair dyeing shampoos - Medicated shampoos - Dry shampoos

- Intended to be used for hair that has not been chemically processed and produced moderate sebum - Formulation should offer good cleaning with minimal conditioning

Normal hair shampoo

- Removes excess sebum from the hair and scalp - Contain strong surfactants with none to minimal conditioning - Conditioners are not needed for oily hair with excess sebum production

Oily hair shampoos

- Gentle cleansing - Uses mild surfactants like sulfosuccinates and good conditioning - Provide thin coating over the hair fiber through the static electricity - Enhance manageability of the hair

Dry hair shampoos

For daily use without drying the hair or depositing much oil

Everyday shampoos

- To cleanse the hair thoroughly from retained hair styling products like hair gels and hair sprays - Contain strong surfactants >Similar to oily hair shampoos - Used once a week only

Deep cleansing shampoos

- Contain mild surfactants like betaines - Required to be non-irritating

Baby shampoos

- To make gray hair brighter and less yellowish through the use of blue dyes - Care should be observed to prevent overuse > Result in unnatural blue hue of the hair

Gray hair shampoos

- Specially formulated to be used after permanent hair dyeing - Contain cationic surfactants - Have a acidic pH to neutralize the residual alkalinity from hair dye chemicals

Hair dyeing shampoos

Contain active ingredients to relieve itching, and scaling Ex: Antidandruff

Medicated shampoos

- Formulated as powder mixtures with oil absorbing actives like starch, kaolin, and talc - Added or used for touch ups when there is no time to wash the hair - To remove sebum from the hair - Replaced by liquid shampoos, because they are more effective for cleansing and conditioning the hair

Dry shampoos

One of the most common skin diseases of the scalp

dandruff

Dandruff is considered to be a mild form of ______________

seborrheic dermatitis

- Caused by increased rate of cell turnover - Leads to cell clumping

dandruff

- Hormones, - Emotional stress, - Sebum, - Scalp occlusion, - Increased alkalinity, and - Malassezia (fungus)

Causes of dandruff

is an effective antifungal that slows down cell turnover

Zinc pyrithione

- exert keratolytic effect - Causes the breakdown of keratin and dead cells - Reducing visible flakes - Sulfur possesses antibacterial property

Sulfur and salicylic acid

slows down rate of epidermal turnover and antiseptic activity

Tar

is an antifungal, which controls flaking and itching

ketoconazole

- Smoothen the hair, improve the gloss and luster, and recondition damaged hair - Deposit positive charges on the hair, reducing its negative charges and minimizing frizzy hair

Hair conditioner

Hair conditioners provide the hair with permanent improvement (t of f)

F; temporary

Product composition of conditioners

- QUATS - Film-forming conditioners - Protein-containing conditioners - Silicones

- Cationic detergents - Attracted to the negatively charged hair fiber and can remain on the hair surface even after rinsing - Applied after shampoo and rinsed before drying the hair

Quaternary conditioners

Examples of quaternary conditioners

- Stearalkonium chloride - Cetrimonium chloride - Quaterniums - Polyquaterniums

coat hair fibers and fill in defects in the cuticle to create a smooth surface

Film- forming conditioners

- Ideal conditioners for curly and kinky hair - Can make fine, straight hair limp and difficult to style - Applied to towel-dried hair and are left on the hair

Film- forming conditioners

Examples of Film-forming conditioners

- Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

penetrate holes in the hair shaft and increase fracture strength

Protein-containing conditioners

- The longer they are left on the hair, the deeper the proteins can penetrate - As rinse off conditioners for minimal penetration - As leave-on conditioners for deeper penetrations

Protein-containing conditioners

form thin film on hair without the greasy or limp hair look

Silicones

Examples of silicones

Cyclomethicone, dimethicone

Types of conditioners

- instant - hair rinses - deep conditioners (or Hair Mask) - leave-in products

- Formulated as lotions and used on wet hair after shampooing - Left on the hair for a few minutes and then rinsed off - Improve wet combing - Contain quats as the main ingredient

INSTANT CONDITIONERS

- Formulated as liquids for fine oily hair - Aids hair detangling - Applied to towel-dried hair and rinsed after a few minutes

HAIR RINSES

- Available as creams or oils containing quats and hydrolyzed proteins - For chemically-damaged and dry hair - Applied on wet hair and are left on for 20 to 30 minutes before rinsing

DEEP CONDITIONERS (or HAIR MASKS)

- Oily products based on petrolatum, mineral oil, and silicones - Moisturize hair while aiding hair styling - Applied to towel-dried hair

LEAVE-IN PRODUCTS

Performance parameters

- Conditioning Effect (Combability) - Effect of Antidandruff Shampoos - Parameters associated with the efficacy of the formulation includes >Subjective parameters >Objective parameters

- Instrumental combing experiment - Measures friction generated between comb and hair during grooming - May be used on wet and dry hair samples

Conditioning Effect (Combability)

In vitro test

cultivation of yeast in the presence of active ingredient

In vivo of product on humans

- Test group vs. placebo - Antidandruff vs. nonmedicated shampoo - Half head technique > Same subject serves as their own control

Subjective parameters

Itching, Burning

Objective parameters - Determined by immediate analysis

- Weight of flakes, - Size, - Number, - Area of scalp scales