Hair cleansers and conditioners Flashcards
Designed to:
- Remove all kinds of soilage
- beautify the hair and make it easier to handle
Shampoo
Shampoos with active ingredients for preventing and treating dandruff
ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOS
Conditioner is designed to repair:
- Chemical damage
(Bleaching, waving) - Environmental Damage
(Exposure to UV rays, salt
water and chlorine) - Physical Damage
(Includes excessive combing
or mechanical brushing)
Designed to replace natural lipids removed by shampooing and facilitate hair managing and styling
conditioners
applied after cleaning the hair as rinse-off or leave-on preparation
conditioners
- Remove sebum and dirt from the hair and scalp
- Good foaming property
- Non-irritating to the eyes
- Acts as vehicle for the deposition of beneficial materials onto the hair and scalp
> Mainly refer to hair conditioning agents
> 2-in-1 products
> Shampoos with conditioners
Shampoo
- Surfactants
- Thickeners
- Water
- Preservatives
- Opacifiers and pearlescent agents
- Conditioners
- pH buffers
- Chelating agents
- Additional ingredients
> To support certain product claims - Active ingredients
Composition of shampoo
Function:
Good cleansing
Anionic surfactant
Examples of Anionic surfactant
Lauryl/laureth
sulfates,
sarcosinates,
sulfosuccinates
Function:
Add softness and manageability
Added as conditioning agents,
owing to their affinity to negative charge of the hair
Cationic surfactants
Examples of cationic surfactants
cetrimonium chloride
Function:
Add foam and manageability
Commonly combined with non-ionics
Amphoteric surfactants
Examples of Amphoteric surfactants
Betaines,
Alkyl amino acids
Function:
Co-surfactants, rheology modifier
(enhance viscosity of the product)
Not very good cleansers
Non-ionic surfactants
Examples of Non-ionic surfactants
Poloxamers,
Amine oxides
Function:
Increase viscosity & product feel
Surfactant-based system
Thickeners
Examples of thickeners
NaCl (or other low concentration
electrolytes), Gums, Cellulose,
Carbomer
Project product formulation from
microbial contamination
Preservatives
Examples of preservatives
Parabens,
Isothiazolones
Function:
Add pearly,
shimmering effect
For aesthetic appeal
Opacifiers and pearlescent
agents
Examples of Opacifiers and pearlescent agents
Polyglycol esters,
Latex opacifiers
Function:
Makes hair soft and shiny
Conditioners
Examples of conditioners
Quats, Glycerin, Silicones
Function:
Shifts pH to neutral range
Especially important for shampoos
intended to be used after chemical
treatment like waving or bleaching the hair, which leaves the hair with an alkaline pH
pH buffers
Examples of pH buffers
Citric acid,
Glycolic acid
Function:
Binds metal ions
Metal ions are present in water
which may cause instability
Chelating agents
Examples of chelating agents
EDTA
Function:
Affects product feel or appearance
Additional ingredients
Examples of additional ingredients
Colorant, Perfumes, Botanical extracts, Vitamins
Function:
Special effects
Active ingredients
Examples of active ingredients
antidandruff actives
Function:
Vehicle for liquid shampoos
Water
Types of shampoo
- normal hair shampoo
- oily hair shampoo
- dry hair shampoo
- Everyday shampoos
- Deep cleansing shampoos
- Baby shampoos
- Gray hair shampoos
- Hair dyeing shampoos
- Medicated shampoos
- Dry shampoos
- Intended to be used for hair that has not been chemically processed and produced moderate sebum
- Formulation should offer good cleaning with minimal conditioning
Normal hair shampoo
- Removes excess sebum from the hair and scalp
- Contain strong surfactants with none to minimal conditioning
- Conditioners are not needed for oily hair with excess sebum production
Oily hair shampoos
- Gentle cleansing
- Uses mild surfactants like sulfosuccinates and good conditioning
- Provide thin coating over the hair fiber through the static electricity
- Enhance manageability of the hair
Dry hair shampoos
For daily use without drying the hair or depositing much oil
Everyday shampoos
- To cleanse the hair thoroughly from retained hair styling products like hair gels and hair sprays
- Contain strong surfactants
>Similar to oily hair shampoos - Used once a week only
Deep cleansing shampoos
- Contain mild surfactants like betaines
- Required to be non-irritating
Baby shampoos
- To make gray hair brighter and less yellowish through the use of blue dyes
- Care should be observed to prevent overuse
> Result in unnatural blue hue of the hair
Gray hair shampoos
- Specially formulated to be used after permanent hair dyeing
- Contain cationic surfactants
- Have a acidic pH to neutralize the residual alkalinity from hair dye chemicals
Hair dyeing shampoos
Contain active ingredients to relieve itching, and scaling
Ex: Antidandruff
Medicated shampoos
- Formulated as powder mixtures with oil absorbing actives like starch, kaolin, and talc
- Added or used for touch ups when there is no time to wash the hair
- To remove sebum from the hair
- Replaced by liquid shampoos, because they are more effective for cleansing and conditioning the hair
Dry shampoos
One of the most common skin diseases of the scalp
dandruff
Dandruff is considered to be a mild form of ______________
seborrheic dermatitis
- Caused by increased rate of cell turnover
- Leads to cell clumping
dandruff
- Hormones,
- Emotional stress,
- Sebum,
- Scalp occlusion,
- Increased alkalinity, and
- Malassezia (fungus)
Causes of dandruff
is an effective antifungal that slows
down cell turnover
Zinc pyrithione
- exert keratolytic effect
- Causes the breakdown of keratin and dead cells
- Reducing visible flakes
- Sulfur possesses antibacterial property
Sulfur and salicylic acid
slows down rate of epidermal turnover and antiseptic
activity
Tar
is an antifungal, which controls flaking and itching
ketoconazole
- Smoothen the hair, improve the gloss and luster, and recondition damaged hair
- Deposit positive charges on the hair, reducing its negative charges and minimizing frizzy hair
Hair conditioner
Hair conditioners provide the hair with permanent improvement (t of f)
F; temporary
Product composition of conditioners
- QUATS
- Film-forming conditioners
- Protein-containing conditioners
- Silicones
- Cationic detergents
- Attracted to the negatively charged hair fiber and can remain on the hair surface even after rinsing
- Applied after shampoo and rinsed before drying the hair
Quaternary conditioners
Examples of quaternary conditioners
- Stearalkonium chloride
- Cetrimonium chloride
- Quaterniums
- Polyquaterniums
coat hair fibers and fill in defects in the cuticle to create a smooth surface
Film- forming conditioners
- Ideal conditioners for curly and kinky hair
- Can make fine, straight hair limp and difficult to style
- Applied to towel-dried hair and are left on the hair
Film- forming conditioners
Examples of Film-forming conditioners
- Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
penetrate holes in the hair shaft and increase fracture strength
Protein-containing conditioners
- The longer they are left on the hair, the deeper the proteins can penetrate
- As rinse off conditioners for minimal penetration
- As leave-on conditioners for deeper penetrations
Protein-containing conditioners
form thin film on hair without the greasy or limp hair look
Silicones
Examples of silicones
Cyclomethicone, dimethicone
Types of conditioners
- instant
- hair rinses
- deep conditioners (or Hair Mask)
- leave-in products
- Formulated as lotions and used on wet hair after shampooing
- Left on the hair for a few minutes and then rinsed off
- Improve wet combing
- Contain quats as the main ingredient
INSTANT CONDITIONERS
- Formulated as liquids for fine oily hair
- Aids hair detangling
- Applied to towel-dried hair and rinsed after a few minutes
HAIR RINSES
- Available as creams or oils containing quats and hydrolyzed proteins
- For chemically-damaged and dry hair
- Applied on wet hair and are left on for 20 to 30 minutes before rinsing
DEEP CONDITIONERS (or HAIR MASKS)
- Oily products based on petrolatum, mineral oil, and
silicones - Moisturize hair while aiding hair styling
- Applied to towel-dried hair
LEAVE-IN PRODUCTS
Performance parameters
- Conditioning Effect (Combability)
- Effect of Antidandruff Shampoos
- Parameters associated with the efficacy of the formulation includes
>Subjective parameters
>Objective parameters
- Instrumental combing experiment
- Measures friction generated between comb and hair during grooming
- May be used on wet and dry hair samples
Conditioning Effect (Combability)
In vitro test
cultivation of yeast in the
presence of active ingredient
In vivo of product on humans
- Test group vs. placebo
- Antidandruff vs. nonmedicated
shampoo - Half head technique
> Same subject serves as their
own control
Subjective parameters
Itching, Burning
Objective parameters - Determined by immediate analysis
- Weight of flakes,
- Size,
- Number,
- Area of scalp scales