anti aging Flashcards
target of anti-aging products
dermis
Intrinsic
not affected by externa factors
- Telomere shortening
- ↑ Cell senescence: Cell aging
- ↓ Hormones
- ↑ Mitochondrial DNA damage and ↑ Reactive oxygen
species (ROS) - Protein damage
process of aging: intrinsic
- increased cell senescence
- As the cell divides, the _______ shortens until
the cell or chromosomes can no longer divide
telomere shortening; telomere
- Structures made from DNA sequences and proteins
- Found at the ends of chromosomes
- Cap and protect the end of a chromosome
- Required for cell division
telomere
↑ Cell senescence
Cell aging
cell loses the capability to replicate and grow, then eventually die
cell senescence
- The damage that we see in cells happens because of oxidative reaction
- Changes in hormonal levels that result to protein damage
↑ Mitochondrial DNA damage and ↑ Reactive oxygen species (ROS)
The damage that we see in cells happens because of ___________
oxidative reaction
aging is slow continuous and reversible (t or f)
F; irreversible
degeneration of elastin, and loss of hydration
thinning of dermis
- Growth and differentiation of skin are still there
- Epidermal and dermal junction is has ridges and
curves
> Facilitates the transfer of nutrients
from the dermis to epidermis
Epidermis: young skin
- Epidermal atrophy
>Cells multiply to a lesser extent - Smoothened epidermal and dermal junction
>Harder to transfer nutrients
Epidermis: aged skin
- Organized collagen and elastin fibers
- Vascular tissue present
Dermis: young skin
- Dermal atrophy
>Collagen and elastin are reduced
○ Reduced vascular tissue
>Less available nutrients for multiplying cells
Dermis: aged skin
Extrinsic
affected by external components
One of the external factors that can lead to skin aging
sun
- ↑ Protease activity and ↓ TIMP activity → direct protein damage
- Amino acids (H, Y, W, F, C) → direct protein damage
- Direct DNA damage → Formation of ROS → Indirect DNA and Protein damage
process of aging: extrinsic
Acceleration of intrinsic aging due to exposure to
environmental factors
Primary factors: UV radiation and smoking Also pollution
- Coarse skin with wrinkles
- Hyperpigmented areas,
- Sallowness
- Increased fragility
- Textural roughness
- Telangiectasia (Spider veins)
physiological changes due to extrinsic factors
causes photoaging (extrinsic aging)
UVA
cleansing and moisturizing
epidermis
Naturally-sourced ingredients with multiple effects (antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, boost collagen
production and etc.)
botanical extracts
- Bioactivity can vary
- Discoloration of product
- Costly
- Constituents depend on growing conditions, climate, weather, harvesting, and extraction methods
- Used in very small amounts
problems of botanical extracts
Antioxidants
coffee
Photoprotection
black tea
Calming & anti-inflammatory
chamomile
Skin lightening
blueberry
Skin tightening
witch hazel
Emollient
jojoba oil
- Stop oxidation processes
- Protect cells from damage by neutralizing free radicals
antioxidants
Include
- vitamins C, B3, and E;
- grapeseed extract,
- resveratrol,
- coenzyme Q10
antioxidants examples
- May stimulate collagen production
- Preserve hyaluronic acid levels
- Exert anti-inflammatory effects
antioxidant actions
Most antioxidants act as _____________
reducing agents
- Applied topically or as injectables
- Has anti-inflammatory, wrinkle reduction, skin firming, smoothening, moisturizing, and protective effects
Peptides and proteins
can trigger the production of protein
peptide sequence
- protein subunits
- Collagen
- Elastin
- Hydrolyzed wheat
- Soy protein
- Neuropeptides like botulinum toxin (Botox)
examples of peptides and proteins
Botox stimulates the release of acetylcholinesterase
(t or f)
blocks
- Promote desquamation
- Lipophilic molecules that can penetrate the epidermis and enter the dermis
- Improve surface roughness and age spots,
- Reduce fine lines by decreasing collagen breakdown
- Downside: Can irritate the skin & cause photosensitization
retinoids
- Retinyl esters
- Retinol
- Retinaldehyde
- Retinoic acid (pang drugs na; not allowed in
cosmetics)
Examples of retinoids
- Naturally-occurring organic carboxylic acids
Hydroxy acids
- Alpha-hydroxy acids / AHAs
- Beta-hydroxy acids / BHAs
- Poly-hydroxy acids / PHAs
- Bionic acids / BAs
- Aromatic hydroxy acids / AMAs
- Promote exfoliation, moisturization, anti inflammatory, and anti-oxidative
Examples of hydroxy acids
- Lactic acid
- Glycolic acid
- Malic acid
- Tartaric acid
- Citric acid
AHAs
AHA that has dual benefit: moisturizing and exfoliant
Lactic acid
Photosensitivity associated with the use of retinoids and AHAs is reversible (t or f)
T
Chemical peels
- Superficial peels
- Medium-depth peels
- Deep peels
- superficial peels
- Surface desquamation
- Reaches the epidermis only
- Mild retinoids (retinol)
- AHAs
superficial chemical peels
- Damage entire epidermis and to reach the upper dermis
- Not included sa scope ng cosmetic products
medium-depth peels
- Wound the mid-dermis
- Protein coagulation and complete peeling of
epidermis with restructuring of basal layer and restoration of dermis
Deep peels
Lipophilic components penetrate the epidermis
and dermis better (t or f)
T
- Liposomes
- Niosomes
- Solid nanoparticles and nanostructures lipid carriers
Delivery systems
- incorporate active ingredients into the
vesicle for enhanced penetration of the actives (penetration of the actives) - Microscopic spherical vesicles with lipid bilayer structure
- May be incorporated with hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives (Polar and NonPolar)
- Act as moisturizer - because of phospholipid
- May shorten formulation shelf-life
- Permeation is greater with liposomal encapsulation
- Eliminates irritation and optimizes dosage
- Greater concentration and residence time in the
epidermis and dermis for prolonged release - Protects encapsulated material from metabolic
degradation - Reduces systemic absorption
liposomes
- Spherical vesicles made of bilayer nonionic surfactants
- Accommodates active ingredients with wide range of solubility
- No moisturizing effect (no phospholipids)
- Have better oxidative stability than liposomes
niosomes
- Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN)
- Matrix consists of one solid lipid
1st generation
- Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC)
- Provides more space to host the drug molecule
- Matrix consists of a blend of solid & lipid liquid
2nd generation
- Provides light coverage, UV protection, hydration, and anti-aging benefits
- Lighter than foundation but heavier than tinted
moisturizer
BEAUTY BALM OR BLEMISH BALM (BB)
- Address skin discoloration, dullness, or sallowness
- Contain light-diffusing particles and antioxidants
- Offer SPF protection
COLOR CORRECTING (CC)
- Combines benefits from BB and CC creams with primary focus on anti-aging
- Help target appearance of wrinkles
DAILY DEFENSE OR DYNAMIC DO-ALL (DD)
