Geography CP&L re-do

Question 1

Backshore

Answer 1

The area between the High Water Mark (HWM) and the landward limit of marine activity. Changes normally take place here only during storm activity.

Question 2

Foreshore

Answer 2

The area lying between the HMW and the LWM. It is the most important zone for marine processes in times that are not influenced by storm activity.

Question 3

Inshore

Answer 3

The area between the LWM and point where waves cease to have any influence on the land beneath them.

Question 4

Offshore

Answer 4

The area beyond the point where waves cease to impact upon the seabed and in which activity is limited to deposition of sediments.

Question 5

Nearshore

Answer 5

The area extends seaward from the HWM to the area where waves begin to break.

Question 6

Surf Zone

Answer 6

The area between the point where the waves break, forming a foamy, bubbly surface and where the waves move up the beach as swash in the swash zone.

Question 7

Swash Zone

Answer 7

The area where a turbulent layer of water washes up the beach following the breaking of a wave.

Question 8

Swash

Answer 8

Turbulent layer of water that washes up the beach after a wave has broken.

Question 9

Breaker Zone

Answer 9

The area where waves approaching the coastline begin to break, usually where the water depth is 5 to 10m.

Question 10

There are 3 things that determine the size of waves?

Answer 10

• Strength
• Persistence
• Fetch (the distance over which the wave is generated)

Question 11

What can create waves?

Answer 11

Wind and Tsunami

Question 12

What creates that majority of waves in the ocean?

Answer 12

Wind

Question 13

Breaking Waves

Answer 13

In deeper waters the movement of individual water molecules is circular. Where as closer to shore the shape becomes more elliptical causing the waves to rise and break.

Question 14

What is wave frequency?

Answer 14

The number of wave crests passing point A each second

Question 15

What is wave period?

Answer 15

The time required fo the wave crests at point A to reach point B

Question 16

What is Bathymetry?

Answer 16

Underwater rock (seabed) following the same shape of the coastline

Question 17

What is Orthogonals?

Answer 17

Direction the wave is travelling in

Question 18

What are the 3 main sources of ocean currents?

Answer 18

• Tidal rise and fall
• Winds
• Thermohaline Circulation

Question 19

All systems have boundaries, we classify them in 3 ways:

Answer 19

• Isolated Systems
• Closed Systems
• Open Systems

Question 20

What can Weathering be divided into?

Answer 20

Physical
Chemical
Biological