Fruit Spirits - Cognac and Armagnac Flashcards
This deck focuses on the production of certain fruit brandies and the similarities as well as key differences between the major French brandy areas of Armagnac and Cognac.
What is the leading Cognac producing company?
Hennessy
6.5 million cases a year, or triple the amount sold by second-place Martell.
The top four Cognac producing companies?
- Hennessy
- Martell
- Rémy Martin
- Courvoisier
What is the AOC?
Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée
French system for regulating and controlling vineyards and other agricultural products.
Ugni Blanc (Cognac)
98% of the grapes used for Cognac production.
How many grapes are permitted for Cognac production?
6, but in reality Ugni Blanc accounts for 98% of the total.
What is Ugni Blanc (Armagnac)?
Most planted grape, with Baco, Folle Blanche, and Colombard also contributing.
When is the cut-off for the distillation of the wines made from the fall harvest, in both Cognac and Armagnac?
March 31, following the harvest.
What type of presses are prohibited in Cognac, and why?
Screw presses are prohibited because they can extract harsh flavors from the grapes.
Of what is grape juice high in content?
Sugar and Acid
Both of which are attractive to and/or well tolerated by yeast.
The alcohol content of wines intended for Cognac distillation, and why is this significant?
7-12% abv, which means there are plenty of aromatic compounds from the grapes left in the wine, which can eventually impact the flavor of the spirit.
Why is Malolactic Conversion (MLC) universally done to the wines destined for Cognac and Armagnac?
Helps to stabilize them during storage before distillation.
Malic acid is a key nutrient for spoilage bacteria.
What are lees, and what is the difference between gross lees and fine lees?
Dead yeast cells and grape fragments in the fermented wine, gross lees are large particles and fine lees are the smaller particles.
What style of spirit is produced by Cognac and Armagnac distillers?
Relatively low strength and characterful spirit.
Maximum strength for distillate in Cognac and Armagnac?
72.4% abv
What kind of stills must be used in Cognac?
Pot stills
The French word for still?
Alambic
Name for stills in Cognac?
Alambic Charentais
Name for stills in Armagnac?
Alambic Armagnacais
What are some of the wood-management variations in Cognac and Armagnac?
- Type of wood
- Age of the barrels
- Humidity in the warehouse
- Re-barreling
- Decanting old wood-aged spirit into glass demijohns
What is Boisé?
A wood extract used as an additive in Cognac and Armagnac.
True / False:
Chill-filtration is almost always used in the production of Cognac and Armagnac.
True
What are: Faibles, Petite Eaux?
- Faibles are created by diluting un-aged spirits down to below 30% abv
- The solution is then aged over time and can develop distinctly bright floral aromas that can add complexity and a unique style once blended with the final spirits
- These faibles are then blended, a small bit at a time, in a process called ‘petites eaux’ (or little waters)
Core components most Cognac and Armagnac are built upon?
- grape variety
- oak
- an off-dry sweetness
Basic VS style?
- Bright fruity aromas
- No rancio aromas
- Tend to have more sharpness and sweetness
Basic VSOP style?
- Tend to show dried fruit aromas
- Some rancio is possible
Basic XO style?
- Smoothest of the styles
- Very evolved complexity
- Driven by esterification and rancio
Storage vessels for Blanche Armagnac?
Inert vessels.
Why might a Cognac distiller have to adjust the cut-time on a distillation run?
- Wines for Cognac distillation may change from vintage to vintage, and even once they are made and are waiting for distillation
- Therefore, predictable inputs and outputs are not the norm
What kind of heat is used for Alambic Charentais?
Must be directly heated.
Basic requirements for Alambic Charentais?
- Must be heated directly
- Wormtub condenser must be used
- Bonne Chauffe can be no larger than 30hL, and can only be filled to 25hL
- Première Chauffe can be up to 140hL (120hL filled)
- Must be made of copper
- Required parts include chapiteau/col de cygne
The three things Cognac distillers collect from the Premiére Chauffe:
- Têtes (heads)
- Brouillis (low wines)
- Queues (tails)
What is Vinasse?
Waste product left behind in the still after the first distillation.
What is Brouillis?
Low Wines from the first distillation, usually between 27-30% abv.
What are the four parts, or cuts, of the Bonne Chauffe in Cognac?
- Têtes (heads)
- Coeur (heart) aka eau-de-vie
- Secondes (seconds)
- Queues (tails)
ABV of the Coeur in Cognac?
Cannot exceed 72.4% abv
This is the product that will be sent for wood-aging and will eventually be sold as Cognac.
What happens to the Tétes and Queues after either the Premiere or Bonnes Chauffe?
They are recycled back to the charging vessel and added to the wine being readied for distillation.
What is the benefit to Cognac distillers with regard to Group 3 fractions?
- Distillers are able to turn their stills off before the liquid coming off the still has dropped to 1% - leaves a lot of G3 fractions in the vinasse
- Fatty acids and alcohols can react in the still, forming esters
- Fatty acids and alcohols other than ethanol are in the distillate, adding complexity to spirits destined for long aging
What is the Col de Cygne?
‘Swan’s neck’ - part of the still that connects the top of the pot to the condenser.
Similar to the Lyne arm in Whiskey stills.
Sub-regions of Cognac:
- Grande Champagne
- Petite Champagne
- Borderies
- Fins Bois
- Bon Bois
- Bois Ordinaires
True / False:
In Cognac you can add sugar to the grape must prior to fermentation.
False
No additional sugar is permitted.
When can SO₂ be used in Cognac production?
Only after the wine fermentation is complete.
ABV range for Cognac wines?
7-12% abv
Main parts of the Alambic Charentais:
- Pot
- Chapiteau
- Col de Cygne
- Worm Tube Condenser
Minimum aging for the new spirit in Cognac?
2 years minimum in oak barrels before they can be sold as Cognac.
What can be added to Cognac?
- Color using caramel and/or a product made from oak chips
- Sugar in small amounts
Compte system and the key date?
- Compte system is the system used to track the stock and ages of the cognacs in an aging system
- Essentially sets the clock for all of the spirits in one harvest season, no matter when the grapes are harvested
- The key date is April 1 following the harvest of the grapes
What is significant about the name of a sub-region on the label of Cognac?
100% of the grapes must come from the stated region.
What is Fine Champagne?
Grapes from both Petite Champagne and Grande Champagne can be combined to use this designation, as long as 50% or more come from Grande Champagne.
What do age statements guarantee?
Minimum age of the youngest spirit in the blend.
Compte 2 labeling terms - Cognac
- VS
- Very Special
- Trois Étoiles
Compte 4 labeling terms - Cognac
- VSOP
- Réserve
Compte 6 labeling terms - Cognac
Napoléon
Compte 10 labeling terms - Cognac
- XO
- Hors d’Age
Compte 14 Labeling terms - Cognac
XXO
How many permitted grapes in Armagnac?
Total of 10, but Ugni Blanc is the most important, followed by Baco, Folle Blanche and Colombard.
Sub-regions of Armagnac:
- Bas Armagnac
- Haut Armagnac
- Armagnac Ténarèze
ABV range for Armagnac wines?
7.5-12%
When can SO₂ be used in Armagnac production?
Not permitted at any time, from harvest to distillation.
Material that must be used for still manufacturing in both Cognac and Armagnac?
Entirely from Copper, in both.
How many plates are allowed in an Alambic Armagnacais?
Up to 17
Required parts of an Alambic Armagnacais:
- Column
- Wine heater
- Worm tube condenser
- must be heated with a direct flame, as well
ABV range for newly made Armagnac spirit?
52% - 72.4% abv
The minimum aging requirement for Armagnac spirit before selling is allowed?
- Bas Armagnac, Haut Armagnac, Armagnac Ténarèze must be aged for a minimum of 1 year in oak barrels before they can be sold
- Blanche Armagnac must rest in inert vessels for 3 months before being sold
How does the Compte system differ in Armagnac from Cognac?
No difference.
It is exactly the same for wood-aged spirits.
Blanche Armagnac is the only exception as it has to be aged for only 3 months, minimum.
What is significant about the name of a sub-region on the label of Armagnac?
100% of the grapes for the spirit must come from the stated region. Includes the use for Blanche Armagnac, as well.
Compte 1 - Labeling terms - Armagnac
- VS
- Étoiles
Compte 4 - Labeling terms - Armagnac
VSOP
Compte 10 - Labeling terms - Armagnac
- XO
- Hors d’Age
- Vintages
Age/Vintage Statements - Labeling terms - Armagnac
- An age statement denotes the youngest spirit in the blend
- A vintage statement denotes that all of the grapes in that spirit are from the stated year
Characteristics of Ugni Blanc:
- Grapes are lower aromatics
- Wines are simple, high in acid and lower in alcohol
- Spirits have raisin and floral characteristic
Characteristics of Baco:
- Earthy
- Dry figs
- Dried prunes
Not permitted in Cognac.
Characteristics of Folle Blanche:
- Aromatic grape
- Fruity and floral
Well suited for Blanche Armagnac where the raw material has to stand on its own.
Characteristics of Colombard:
- Spicy
- Peppery
Environmental factors for choosing vineyard locations:
- Soil type
- Temperature
- Sunlight
Different areas can produce low/high-quality grapes, even if the region has a reputation for the opposite.
Why do fresh-made spirits in Cognac and Armagnac often have a textural sharpness and taste coarse?
Group 3 fractions are not systematically removed the way they are in other distillates, such as Scotch.
Why is it beneficial to age many Armagnacs for an extended period of time?
Because of the still design, there are a lot of G1 fractions in the distillate, which only is removed after a long aging period to evaporate.
What can be the difference between spirit made at the beginning of the season from spirit made toward the end.
- Early season tends to be brighter, crisp apple aromas and leaner texture
- Later season spirits tend to be richer with more mouth-filling and dried raisin aromas
What can fine lees release into the liquid being distilled?
- Fusel alcohols and fatty acids from within the yeast cells
- Amino acids from the cell walls
The heat of the still will help to release these compounds and cause additional reactions in the liquid, including Maillard reactions and esterifications.
Why would a producer prefer to remove fine lees from the liquid being distilled?
Wants to emphasize the fruit purity of the spirit over the extra complexity of having them included.
What are Secondes (Cognac)?
An extra cut made by Cognac distillers, which represent the first part of the tails.
- Recycling to the wine will result in a lighter style
- Recycling to the brouillis will result in a richer style
What happens with secondes when they are recycled to the brouillis?
Results in one extra distillation, and therefore one extra chance to remove G3 fractions.
Creates a richer style.
What happens with secondes when they are recycled to the wine?
Results in two extra distillations and therefore two opportunities to remove G3 fractions.
Lighter style.
How does Martell’s approach to secondes differ from Remy-Martin’s?
- Martell returns secondes to the wine and completely removes the lees, resulting in a lighter fruitier style
- Remy returns seconds to the brouillis and fine lees are included in the wine, resulting in a richer style
What happens to spirits in Cognac and Armagnac immediately after distillation is complete?
Distillers assess for quality and style and then blend those that are similar into batches called coupes.
What are Coupes (Cognac)?
Young spirits are assessed and then divided into groups (coupes) based on criteria, such as…
- grape variety
- vineyard location
- use of lees
- timing in the season of the distillation
- which distiller made the spirit
- potential for aging (longer or shorter)
Barrel sizes in Cognac and Armagnac?
Between 250 L and 500 L.
What kind of barrels are used for the first year of aging a spirit, and then where do they go?
- 1st year - New French Oak
- After that - typically used barrels so the spirit is not overwhelmed by the oak
- Some high-quality spirits, though, can handle more new oak, and may stay in it for 3-4 years
How does a wet cellar affect the aging of a spirit in a barrel?
Wet cellars cause spirits to be lower in abv, have a smoother texture and are more mouth-filling, showing more spirit flavor rather than oak.
How does a dry cellar affect the aging of a spirit in a barrel?
Dry cellars will result in spirits with a sharper texture, nutty, cedary flavors, and will retain a higher abv with more direct oak character.
What happens to the coupes over time?
They are assessed and blended into larger and larger batches as they get closer to bottling time.
What is Paradis (Cognac)?
Section of a warehouse dedicated to very old spirits.
What happens with spirits over 50 years of age?
Often decanted from barrel to demijohns for long-term aging, storage, and reference.
What are syrup barrels?
Used to make an additive to add sweetness, as well as a fruity character from the grapes used to make them.
What are the three main strands of the Cognac and Armagnac industry?
- Grape growers
- Producers
- Regulatory bodies
Define:
Producer / Cooperative
- Common in the EU
- Includes member/owners, usually independent growers who supply the grapes
- Coop ferments, distill, and sometimes mature
- Then sell to a shipper, or use for their own brands
Define:
Producer / Professional Distillers
- Important to both regions
- In Cognac, they act as intermediaries: product flow is, growers > distillers > shippers
- Shipper focuses on Maturation and Blending
- Similar in Armnagnc, but some distillers drive their stills to the growers, often just simply distilling, leaving the maturation to the grower
Define:
Producer / Shippers
- Companies that specialize in the maturation and selling of spirits
- The majority of what they work with is produced by others
- Relationships are managed by long-term contracts
- Four dominant companies in Cognac
- Armagnac does not have dominant companies
Define:
Producer / Independent
- Many in both regions
- They ferment and distill their own grapes
- Some buy grapes
- Sometimes will use the term ‘Chateau’, which denotes an individual property
- Fewer options for blending, but more unique styles
Define:
Regulatory Bodies (Cognac, Armagnac)
- Cognac = Bureau National Interprofessional du Cognac (BNIC)
- Armagnac = Bureau National Interprofessional de l’Armagnac (BNIA)
What do regulatory bodies do?
- Represent concerns of the growers and producers
- Oversee all aspects of production
- Certify age of stock
- Conduct research
- Promote Cognac/Armagnac in both domestic and export markets
- Protect the trade names of each region