Forequarters Flashcards

1
Q

Shoulder blades well laid back; shoulders not heavy. Forelegs short, powerful and with great bone; elbows turning neither in nor out but fitting neatly against side. Upper forearm inclined slightly inwards, but not to such an extent as to prevent free action or to result in legs touching each other when standing or in action; forechest fitting neatly into crook when viewed from front. Knuckling over highly undesirable. Some wrinkles of skin may appear on lower legs, but this must on no account be excessive.

A

Basset hound

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2
Q

Overview: The limbs have good bone.
Shoulder: Oblique and well set on the thorax.
Elbow: In the line with the body.
Forearm: Vertical or curving slightly in (which is not to be sought after).
Metacarpus (Pastern): Seen in profile, somewhat oblique. Seen from the front, in the axis of the body or slanting slightly out (which is not to be sought after).

A

Basset Fauve de Bretagne

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3
Q

Bone structure developed but lean. It should be understood that bone quality is not a question of volume but density.
The forequarters must be straight with a thick forearm and a very slightly defined but very solid carpal joint (wrist).
Shoulder: Long, clean and oblique.
Elbow: Should be neither too close to body nor too loose.
Forearm: Thick, wrists (carpus) should never touch.

A

Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen

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4
Q

Limbs: Bone structure quite strong but in proportion to size
Shoulders: Clean, oblique, well attached to the body.
Forearm: Well developed.
Wrist (Carpus): Very slightly defined.

A

Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen

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5
Q

Shoulder blades long, broad, and placed firmly and obliquely (45 degrees to the horizontal) upon very robust rib cage. Upper arm the same length as shoulder blade, set at 90 degrees to it, very strong, and covered with hard, supple muscles. Upper arm lies close to ribs, but able to move freely. Forearm short and strong in bone, inclining slightly inwards; when seen in profile moderately straight, must not bend forward or knuckle over, which indicates unsoundness. Correctly placed foreleg should cover the lowest point of the keel.

A

Dachshund standard and miniature

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6
Q

General: Strongly muscled, well angulated. Seen from the front, clean front legs (tight fitting skin), standing straight with good strength of bone; feet pointing straight forward, positioned at the lowest point of the chest.
Shoulders: Well defined muscles. Long sloping shoulder blade (ca. 90 degrees to upper arm), fitting close to chest.
Upper arm: Equal in length to shoulder blade, set almost at right angle to it. Strong boned and well-muscled, close fitting to ribs but free in movement.
Elbows: Turning neither in nor out.
Forearm: Short, yet so long that the dog’s ground clearance is one third of its height at withers. As straight as possible.
Carpus / Wrist: Slightly closer together than the shoulder joints.
Pastern: Seen from the side, should be neither steep nor noticeably inclined forward.

A

Dachshund rabbit

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7
Q

Powerfully constructed shoulders. The forelegs are straight, with elbows turning neither in nor out; pasterns strong and erect.

A

Black and Tan Coonhound

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8
Q

Legs are straight from elbows to feet, well boned and muscular, with strong, straight, slightly sloping pasterns. Legs should appear straight from either side or front view. Length of leg from elbow to ground is approximately one half the height at the withers. Shoulders are clean and sloping, muscular but not too broad or rough, giving the appearance of freedom of movement and strength.

A

Bluetick Coonhound

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