Finals Decorative Flashcards
Are products that are intended to change the appearance of facial skin.
Face Powders
These cosmetics products are used to cover minor imperfections and reduce the shine that appears on the skin due to sebum or perspiration.
Face Powders
They are required to give a matt, smooth finish to the skin and remain this way for as long as possible
Face Powders
They typically work by applying color to the skin or through other effects such as altering the reflection of light or the shininess of the skin.
Face Powders
Finer and tend to set make up better than pressed powder. Applied using a brush or a puff. This make it less portable.
Compact/ Pressed face powders
Loose face powders
Loose face powders
Comes in a cake form, provides better and longer coverage. Can be applied using dense puff or make up sponge
Compact/ Pressed face powders
Loose face powders
Compact/ Pressed face powders
Unpigmented, sheer powder used mainly to control oily zones.
Tinted/Translucent
Translucent
pigmented and usually worn without foundation.
Tinted/Translucent
Tinted
General Characteristics of Face powders:
- The powder should have the required covering power to mask minor visible skin imperfections.
- It should adhere to the skin and must not be completely dissipated in a short time, so avoiding frequent repowdering.
- The finish given to the skin must complement the skin color, imparting a velvet or peachlike character.
- Shine on or around the nose must be completely eliminated. The powder must be absorbent without changing its appearance on the skin.
- There must be sufficient slip to enable the powder to be applied to the skin with a suitable applicator, such as a puff or brush, without dragging or producing a blotchy effect.
- The constituents of the powder should be such that a clown like effect is impossible
Homogeneous dispersion of the pigments in the white base is very important in manufacturing face powders.
Color extension
Methods of preparation:
Wet method
Dry method
Damp method
Materials and binders are compressed by using simple pressure in specialized presses.
Wet method
Dry method
Damp method
Dry method
Basic materials with colors and binders are kneaded into a paste with water Pressed into a mold and subjected to air drying. This is not commonly used because this method could cause cracking
Wet method
Dry method
Damp method
Wet method
The base powder, color and perfume are mixed uniformly. The mixture formed is then wetted down with liquid binders Like aqueous mucilage and blended until the proper degree of plasticity of the mass is achieved. Powder then is screened and compressed by machine and dried.
Wet method
Dry method
Damp method
Damp method
This is the most accepted method in making powders
Wet method
Dry method
Damp method
Damp method
Homogeneous dispersion of the pigments is achieved by adequate extension of the pigments by passing the pigment and talc through a?
hammer mill/High velocity mixer
hammer mill
This breaks up the pigment agglomerates, which then stabilize by becoming coated onto the talc particles
hammer mill/High velocity mixer
hammer mill
known as a plough A high device. This equipment uses a high– shear speed chopper in addition to mixing paddles rotating on an axial shaft. The chopper is mainly responsible for the powder extension.
hammer mill/High velocity mixer
High velocity mixer
The materials used as binding agents provide greater cohesion.
Binding agents
dry (powder) sources:
zinc and magnesium stearate
Oil sources:
mineral oil, isopropyl myristate , and lanolin derivatives
Binding agents:
- dry (powder)
- Oil
- Silicone
- Emulsion - using an Oil in water emulsion
are a form of compact powder foundation that can be applied to the skin by use of either a wet or dry sponge. The overall function is to provide a natural looking smooth finish.
Twoway foundations
They combine the properties of a foundation with that of a face powder, with extended wear and the potential to minimize the appearance of wrinkles, blemishes and skin pores.
Twoway foundations
The two most important criteria of substrates and extenders for two way foundations:
• platelet shape
• flexibility of structure
Platelettype substrates and extenders enhances the feel of the formulation
preferred in two-way foundations owing to its appearance and feel
Mica
Talc
Sericite
Spherical powders
Composite Minerals
Sericite
Utilization for two way foundation is limited to no more than 10%. More than this amount will diminished the benefits of sericite. Imparts a much whiter, less transparent look on the skin because after pulverization the particle size is significantly reduced.
Mica
Talc
Sericite
Spherical powders
Composite Minerals
Talc
Incorporation between 5% and 10% because it adds transparency. The total content of the mica group of minerals is usually 20-35%.
Mica
Talc
Sericite
Spherical powders
Composite Minerals
Mica
Imparts a silky smooth feel, enhanced pay-off, and smoother skin application in two way make up foundation products.
Mica
Talc
Sericite
Spherical powders
Composite Minerals
Spherical powders
Minimize the appearance of unevenness of the skin, such as wrinkles and blemishes, in a natural way, when combined with Mica.
Mica
Talc
Sericite
Spherical powders
Composite Minerals
Composite Minerals
Example of Composite Minerals:
aluminum hydroxide
has a refractive index of 1.56 which is almost identical to that of the skin (1.55). When thin layers of _____ are deposited onto mica in a honeycomb structure the light the skin are simulated.
aluminium hydroxide
dominant features of the face, especially during conversation. They reflect emotional states as well as being indicative of our state of health.
eyes
tooth
nose
lips
Eyes
Includes products that are used around
the eye to enhance the appearance of the
eyes and to emphasize the beauty of the
eyes.
eye products
face powders
lip products
EYE PRODUCTS
The first set, known as ______, primary, or ‘‘milk’’ teeth, begins to appear in infants between the age of 5 and 9 months. All 20 of these ‘‘baby’’ teeth are generally in
place by age 2 1/2 years.
deciduous/succedaneous
deciduous
The second set, or permanent teeth, forms within the gums during the period from infancy to puberty. These teeth, also known as______ teeth, begin to erupt at around age 5,
displacing the deciduous set as they appear. There are 32 permanent teeth.
deciduous/succedaneous
succedaneous
The Parts of a Tooth:
- The area above the gum that can be seen.
- The area below the gum that is not visible
- The constricted portion, or neck, between the other two parts.
The ___ is the enamel-covered portion of the tooth.
root
neck
crown
crown
The ___ is the portion of the tooth which, by means of the periodontal ligament, relates to the osseous (bony) structures of the jaw.
root
neck
crown
root
The Tissues of a Tooth:
- Enamel
- Dentin
- Pulp
- Cementum
- Periodontal ligament
Other Parts of the Mouth:
- Palate
- Tongue
- Saliva and salivary
glands - Oral mucosa
Important functions of Saliva:
• to assist in the digestion of food,
• to prepare food for swallowing by altering its consistency,
• to moisten and lubricate the mouth and lips.
• to cleanse the mouth and teeth from food debris and other foreign materials, and
• to excrete organic and inorganic substances from the body.
DENTAL DISEASES WORLDWIDE:
• Cavities (caries)
• Tartar (calculus)
• Sore gums (gingivitis)
• Periodontitis (loss of teeth supporting the tissue)
A paste or gel to be used with a toothbrush to maintain and improve oral health and aesthetics.
Toothpaste or Dentrifices
The essential ingredients of a toothpaste are:
• a thickening agent
• an abrasive cleaning agent
• a surfactant
• a humectant
• Flavoring agent
• active therapeutic agents.
two types of stains on teeth:
extrinsic stain
intrinsic stain
Originate from chromogenic material from food or drink
extrinsic stain
intrinsic stain
stain on teeth (extrinsic stain).
Caused by therapeutic agents, such as tetracycline, or excessive fluoride exposure during teeth development.
extrinsic stain
intrinsic stain
stain in the tooth (intrinsic stain)
caused by oral bacteria reacting with salivary proteins to form volatile sulfur compounds (VSC).
Local mouth odor
Major components of mouth odor:
• hydrogen sulfide
• methyl mercaptan
• dimethyl sulfide
A white or brown spot on the tooth’s surface may be a sign of early decay. Brushing with a fluoride toothpaste and flossing may prevent it from becoming a cavity.
Stage 1
The decay has gone through the tooth’s hard enamel surface
layer.
Stage 2
Now that the cavity has gone through the enamel to the softer layer of the tooth, it will get destroy the tooth structure more quickly as the layers of tooth beneath the enamel are not as hard
Stage 3
If the cavity is not filled, it can cause bigger problems deeper in the tooth. This is why it’s important to see your dental team regularly.
Stage 4
a crusty deposit that can trap stains on the teeth and cause discoloration.
Teeth tartar (dental calculus)
General methods in removing tooth calculus:
• Mechanical means
• Chemical means
(prevents the formation of the basic phases of calcium phosphates)
inhibitors of the formation of calcium phosphate.
An acute, localized tooth pain in response to thermal, tactile,
or air blast stimulation to exposed dentine surfaces.
Dentinal hypersensitivity
The next development in dentifrice technology was to incorporate antibacterial agents with fluoride and tartar reducing compounds.
Multibenefit Technologies in Dentifrices
Characteristics of Antibacterials for Plaque Effects:
Broad spectrum antibacterial activity
Substantivity to oral surfaces
Good taste
Compatible with toothpaste ingredients
Low toxicity
No disturbance of oral ecology
Cationic Antibacterial Agents:
• chlorhexidine digluconate (CHDG)
• benzethonium chloride (BTC)
• cetyl pyridium chloride (CPC)
is more effective than BTC or CPC and has higher retention in the oral environment.
chlorhexidine digluconate (CHDG)
=effective against plaque, gingivitis, calculus, and caries reduction.
=‘‘double-barrel’’ effect. This unique antibacterial not only kills bacteria, but also neutralizes the products of bacteria which could provoke inflammation.
=potent inhibitor of both cyclo-oxygenase and lipoxygenase pathways
Triclosan
A typical therapeutic rinse contains surfactants, flavor, active agent, and water
Mouth rinse
Eye cosmetic products that partakes colour and gloss to the eyelids.
Eyeshadow
This is the most fashion-conscious area of decorative cosmetics, the popular shades varying with the season and clothes that are in fashion at the time.
Eyeshadow
Good characteristics of an eyes shadow:
✓Easily applied without dragging at the sensitive skin in the eye area
✓Retention and longevity of wear
✓Non Greasy
Common form of eyeshadows. These are sold as single
colours in a small compact w/ or w/o an applicator, or as collections of colours that tone together in larger compacts or tins with a number of applicators.
Pressed powder eyeshadow
______ are used to act as a powder binder and also give skin adhesions.
Talc with zinc stearate
Ingredients such as silicates and carbonates are not as widely used in eye powder products due to their drying effect on the skin and harsh gritty feel.
T/F
T
Fragrances can also be used in eyeshadows.
T/F
F
Fragrances should never be used in eyeshadows.
Talc
Imparts slip/base
Powder binder and gives adherence to the skin
Liquid binder
Pigment
Imparts slip/base
Talc
Imparts slip/base
pigment
liquid binder
powder binder; gives adherence to the skin
Imparts slip/base
Zinc Stearate
Imparts slip/base
pigment
liquid binder
powder binder; gives adherence to the skin
powder binder; gives adherence to the skin
Liquid Ester
Imparts slip/base
pigment
liquid binder
powder binder; gives adherence to the skin
liquid binder
Ultramarine blue
Imparts slip/base
pigment
liquid binder
powder binder; gives adherence to the skin
pigment
Chrome oxide green
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
pigment
FDC Yellow No. 5 Al Lake
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
pigment
Colorona Dark blue
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
coloured pearl
Timiron MP 115
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
white pearl
The properties and quality control of finished pressed-powder products:
➢ Dispersion of pigments
➢ Matching of shade
➢ Powder-cake stability
➢ Bulk density
➢ Microbiological check
Methylparaben
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
preservative
Propylparaben
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
preservative
Imidazolinidyl Urea
preservative
pigment
white pearl
coloured pearl
preservative
The products have high viscosity, so the pigments and pearls do not sink or float, but the products are thixotropic when squeezed from the tube, so allowing easy application.
Cream eyeshadow
True or False: The products are specially formulated to ensure that potentially harmful microorganisms cannot grow and multiply.
T
True or False: The safety of Mascaras is established by selection of ingredients that are safe and suitable for this purpose. In addition, Mascaras are assessed for their potential to cause skin irritation or cause allergic reactions.
T
Types of Mascara:
- Cake mascara
- Cream mascaras
- Waterproof mascaras
11 common ingredients of Mascara:
- Glycerin
- Propylene Glycol
- TEA-Stearate
- Isopropyl Myristate
- Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
- Cyclomethicone
- Magnesium Silicate
- Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer
- Fragrance
- Color Additives
- Water
Are applied to the rims of the eyelids following the eyeshadow to accentuate the shape of the eyes.
Eyeliners
True or False: Liquid eyeliners are marketed in slim bottles, similar to those used to apply mascaras, with the mascara brush replaced by a thin pointed brush, or in a pen-type format, in which the product is incorporated in a rigid bottle to which is attached a nib.
T
True or False: Eyeliners are only available in pencil form and can be sharpened to allow a line to be drawn, with the traditional Kohl pencil being the best known of these.
False.
While eyeliners are indeed available in pencil form that can be sharpened, they are not limited to this type. Eyeliners are available in various formulations and formats, including liquid, gel, and pen-style eyeliners. These alternatives offer different application methods and consistencies, catering to individual preferences and desired eyeliner effects. The traditional Kohl pencil is just one option among several choices available for achieving eyeliner looks.
Common Ingredients of Eyeliners:
Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer
Carbomer
Color Additives
Dimethicone
Fragrance
Glycerin
Magnesium Silicate
Mineral Oil
PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate
Polysorbate 20
Propylene Glycol
These are products that apply color to the eyebrows to fill in & define the eyebrows. It contain special ingredients that apply color where it is needed in a precise & controlled manner. The products are specially formulated to ensure that potentially harmful microorganisms cannot grow and multiply.
Eyebrow Pencils
True or False: The long thin pencils with a hard ‘lead’ would be used for eyeliners, and shorter fatter pencils with a softer ‘lead’ that would not pull at the eyelid for eyeshadows.
True
long thin pencils w/ hard ‘lead’ = eyeliners
shorter fatter pencils w/ softer ‘lead’ = eyeshadows
True or False: Whichever type of Eyebrow Pencils, the leads are blends of waxes, hardened fats, fats, oils, pigments, and pearls along with antioxidants and preservatives, with the pigments and pearls being evenly dispersed throughout.
T
Common Ingredients of Eyebrow pencils:
- Dimethicone
- Glycerin
- Talc
- Ozokerite
- Polysorbate 60
- Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
- PEG-6 Sorbitan Stearate
- Fragrance
- Color Additives
INCI name of Beeswax
Cera Alba
INCI name of Ozokerite Wax
Ozokerite
Formula of wooded eye pencil, moulded wax type:
Beeswax
Ozokerite Wax
Propyl Stearate
Lanolin
Castor Oil
Mineral Oil
Antioxidant (ex. BHT)
INCI name of Castor Oil
Castor (Ricinus Communis) Oil
INCI name of Mineral Oil
Mineral (Paraffinum Liquidum) Oil
have been used since ancient times to enhance the appearance of the lips by imparting colour and gloss, and by
re-defining the outline of the lips.
Lip products
True or False: Many women will wear lipstick even if they use no other make-up. If applied skillfully, lip products can significantly alter the apparent facial characteristics of the wearer.
T
three most common lip products:
lipsticks, lipglosses and lipliners, of which
lipsticks are the most common.
Other preparations:
❑ Tinted Lip Balm
❑ Semi-matte Lipstick
❑ Cream Lipstick
❑ Matte Lipstick
❑ Lip Satin
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENT AND RAW MATERIALS:
- During application the product must be smooth, and non greasy.
- Adherence well to the skin of the lips
- Color retention consistency
- Must not smear or run.
- Remain on the lips as long as possible and not transfer from the lips to other surfaces such as cups (or shirt collars
-main oil of lipsticks
-Ideal as a suspending medium for the coloring agents.
-It has a reasonable taste provided a good quality is used
-Soluble in alcohol
Castor Oil
True or False: The main disadvantage in the use of castor oil is its inherent instability. This can be overcome, however, with the inclusion of a small amount of antioxidant such as butylated hydroxytoluene or anisole (BHT and BHA).
T
Is a widely used co-solvent in lipsticks. It aids pigment dispersion and has a pleasant skin feel and virtually no taste or odor.
Oleyl alcohol
True or False: Mineral oil in lip products is not recommended without a cosolvent, such as isocetyl alcohol, as it is insoluble in castor oil, and without the co-solvent an unstable system results with the mineral oil tending to sweat out.
T
is a blend of mineral oil and paraffin wax; its use in lipsticks
is limited but it is widely used in lip glosses.
Petroleum jelly