EXAM 3 prod dev Flashcards
Properties of Family of Sketches
Inspiration, Presentation, and Specification
Inspiration
Personal Sketches
- Informal hand sketches, journals, fabric inspiration, motifs, and photos or tear sheets meant for the designer’s own reference.
Presentation
Fashion Sketches and Floats
- Fashion Sketches: Full-figure illustrations with a sense of style, attitude, and seasonal theme.
- Floats: Simplified drawings without a figure to show additional details like color, pattern, or texture. Floats are drawn to the same scale as technical flats.
Specification
Technical Sketches or Flats
- Flats: Detailed, two-dimensional technical drawings used in creating specifications. Includes construction details for pattern making and sewing prototypes.
Purpose of flats
Required for tech packs, patternmaking, and production.
Abbreviations of women’s tank top
- HPS
- FND
- BND
- CF
- CB
HPS
High Point Shoulder: The point at the neckline seam where the garment folds when side seams are aligned. It is an anchor point for tops.
FND
Front Neck Drop: The lowest point on the front neckline
BND
Back Neck Drop: The lowest point on the back neckline
CF
Center Front: The central vertical line on the front of the garment
CB
Center Back: The central vertical line on the back of the garment
Standards for Drawing Conventions: Fonts
simple, sans-serif fonts, typically in all caps for clarity
- easy to read and large enough to remain legible when shared electronically
Standards for Drawing Conventions: Line Weights
- Outline: 2 pt
- Hems: 1 pt
- Seams: 0.75 pt
- Stitch Lines: 0.5 pt
- Callouts (labels): 0.5 pt
Drawing to Scale
- 1:8 scale for adult clothing (40-inch garment circumference translates to 2.5 inches on the sketch).
- 1:4 scale for children’s clothing.
- For smaller elements like tabs or labels, a 1:1 scale may be used, allowing these components to be printed, cut, and tested for proportion on actual garments.
Components of a shirt
- Collar
- Placket: The fabric strip where buttons or snaps are attached, often seen in the front and on sleeves
- Armhole or Armscye
- Back Yoke: The piece across the shoulders on the back, often for structural support
- Tail or Hem
- Fitting Details: Includes darts and pleats to shape the garment
Components of a dress
- Bodice: The part of the dress between the shoulders and the waist
- Skirt: The portion below the waist, which can include various fitting elements like darts or seams
Sheath (Waist) Silhouette
Waist at the natural position, often created with darts for an hourglass shape
Empire (Waist) Silhouette
Seam or style line located under the bustline
High Waist Silhouette
Waistline sits above the natural waist
Dropped Waist Silhouette
Waistline sits lower than natural waist, often with a fitted bodice
Chemise (Waist) Silhouette
Straight style with no defined waist
Tent Silhouette
Exaggerated A-line dress; trapeze versions are knee-length
Tunic Silhouette
Can be a two-piece with a narrow skirt or a one-piece dress with a similar shape
Jumper Silhouette
Sleeveless, generally worn over a blouse or sweater
Princess-Seamed Dress
Fitted through vertical seams, usually without a waist seam
Baby Doll Dress
Short, with gathers or pleats from a yoke or bodice
Surplice (Wrap Dress)
Has overlapping layers, usually crossing at the front
Bell Bottoms
Flare out from the knee
Drawstring Pant
Drawstring waist for adjustability
Active Pant
Designed for movement and often made from flexible material
Trouser
Typically with a high waistband and a relaxed fit.
Pegged Pants
Fuller at the top with a tapered leg
Paperbag Waist Pant
Gathered high waist, common on pants and skirts
Palazzo
Wide-legged, soft pant resembling a divided skirt
Square Neckline
Can be narrow or wide, shallow or deep
Crew Neckline
Sits at the base of the neck, often ribbed
Keyhole Neckline
Includes a closure, positioned at the front or back
V-Neck
Varies in depth and width
Scoop Neckline
Low, curved neckline
Sweetheart Neckline
Heart-shaped neckline, typically low
Bateau
High, wide neckline from shoulder to shoulder
Halter Neckline
Bare shoulders and upper back, fastened at the back
Cap Sleeve
Short, extends slightly over the shoulder
Puff Sleeve
Full and gathered at the shoulder and/or cuff
Bell Sleeve
Flares out towards the wrist
Bishop Sleeve
Full-length with gathering at the cuff
Juliet Sleeve
Puffed at the shoulder, fitted from elbow down
Raglan Sleeve
Attached diagonally from the underarm to the collar
Kimono Sleeve
A wide, straight sleeve, often cut as part of the garment’s main body
Polo Collar
Often knit and lies flat, commonly used in sportswear
Mock Turtle Collar
Close-fitting collar without a full fold
Henley Collar
A collarless shirt with a short placket and buttons
Peter Pan Collar
Small, rounded collar.
Shawl Collar
One-piece collar that extends down the front without lapels
Sailor Collar
Wide collar with a V-shape, often associated with sailor uniforms
Cascade Collar
Ruffled, attached at the neckline for a flowing look
Gathering Device: Easing
Similar to gathering but without visible folds. Used to join seams of slightly different lengths and accommodates small darts, commonly in princess seams and set-in sleeves
Gathering Devices: Elastic
Inserted directly or through casing (a fabric tunnel) to allow stretch and flexibility, often used at waistlines, sleeve hems, and necklines
Gathering Devices: Drawcords
A cord placed in a casing for adjustability, not typically used in children’s wear
Gathering Devices: Lacing
A cord threaded through grommets or loops, providing adjustable shaping, often seen in corset styles and requiring both hands to adjust
Seam Shaping Devices: Princess Seams
Shaped seams that incorporate waist and bust shaping as an alternative to darts. Often used for a sleek, fitted look, especially in tailored jackets
Seam Shaping Devices: Godet
A triangular fabric insert at the hem, adding fullness and movement to skirts or dresses
Seam Shaping Devices: Yolk
A horizontal panel often seen on pants (e.g., jeans), replacing darts for a fitted shape. A two-piece yoke can create a V-shape for added style.
Seam Shaping Devices: Gores
Tapered, vertical divisions that shape skirts by replacing waist darts, allowing flare or other styling.
Seam Shaping Devices: Gusset
A diamond- or triangular-shaped insert used in areas like the armhole or crotch to relieve tension and add movement.
Seam Shaping Devices: Silt & Vent
Openings that provide ease of movement; slits have edges that meet, while vents have an underlay for overlap
Knife Pleats
Single pleats turned in the same direction, often narrow and best for non-stretch fabrics that hold a crisp press
Box Pleats & Inverted Box Pleats
Box pleats point outward, while inverted pleats point inward, providing controlled fullness
Cluster Pleats
Grouped pleats combining box and knife pleats, often used in high-quality garments due to the complexity and cost
Mechanically Engineered Pleats: Accordion Pleats
Narrow, heat-set pleats that fit closely to the body
Mechanically Engineered Pleats: Sunburst Pleats
Radiate from a smaller width at the top to a larger width at the bottom
Mechanically Engineered Pleats: Crystal Pleats
Very narrow, parallel pleats commonly used on flounces and ruffles
