EMBROIDERY CRAFTS

Question 1

Mukaish/Mukesh
(Uttar Pradesh)

Answer 1

It involves twisting thin metallic threads to create patterns all over the fabric.

Question 2

Phool Patti ka
Kaam
(Uttar Pradesh)

Answer 2

It uses of flower petals and leaves as motifs in the embroidery

Question 3

Sujani
(Bihar)

Answer 3

It is done on a fabric with fine muslin, typically red or white. The main motifs are outlined
with thick chain stitches, filled with various coloured threads. [UPSC 2018]

Question 4

Bagh
(Punjab)

Answer 4

It is similar to phulkari but has embroidery work throughout the whole surface of the
fabric.

Question 5

Phulkari
(Punjab and
Haryana)

Answer 5

Phulkari involves embroidery of flower motifs with a contrast of bright colours on light-
coloured fabric. The stitches are embroidered on the reverse of the cloth.

Question 6

Kashidakari
(Jammu and
Kashmir)

Answer 6

It involves using simple chain stitches to make flora patterns.

Question 7

Pashmina
(Kashmir)

Answer 7

Pashmina is the name given to fine cashmere wool and textiles made from it. The wool
is derived from Changthangi goats. It is finer and thinner, suitable for lightweight apparel.

Question 8

Jamawar
(Kashmir)

Answer 8

Janawar are intricately designed shawls made in Kashmir. It is known for fine craftsmanship,
with no discernible front or back.

Question 9

Aari
(Kashmir and
Gujarat)

Answer 9

It is created in fine, concentric rings of chain stitch using a long hooked needle called the
crewel and involves floral motifs.

Question 10

Patola
(Gujarat)

Answer 10

It is a double ikat style from Gujarat, mainly used for silk saris. It employs a resist dyeing
process similar to tie-dye.

Question 11

Kathi Work
(Gujarat)

Answer 11

It is an embroidery style by nomadic Rabari tribes of Gujarat.
z It features chain stitch work adorned with tiny mirrors, often done on brightly dyed fabrics

Question 12

Banni
(Gujarat)

Answer 12

It is the embroidery done by the Lohana community. It uses silk floss for embroidery of
geometrical motifs, including the use of glass works.

Question 13

Pichwai
(Rajasthan and
Gujarat)

Answer 13

Pichwai embroidery is from the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is a beautiful and
colourful hanging used as a backdrop to religious idols.

Question 14

Gota
(Rajasthan)

Answer 14

Small pieces of gold zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to
create elaborate patterns.

Question 15

Karchobi
(Rajasthan)

Answer 15

Karchobi is Rajasthan’s renowned needlework involving raised zari metallic thread
embroidery. It is created with flat stitches on cotton padding.

Question 16

Shamilami
(Manipur)

Answer 16

The embroidery is from Manipur, and it involves mixing weaving and embroidery.

Question 17

Gara Embroidery

Answer 17

It is a traditional embroidery style originating from the Parsi community in India. It is
known for its intricate, highly detailed, floral, and nature-inspired designs.

Question 18

KASUTI (Karnataka)

Answer 18

Kasuti is an art form of women. The word Kasuti is derived from the word Kai which means hand, and Suti means
cotton thread. Thus Kasuti is the handwork of cotton thread.
z Kasuti embroidery employs a single thread and requires careful thread counting on the fabric. The patterns are
created without knots, ensuring symmetry on both sides of the cloth.
z The fabric used for kasuti embroidery is Irkal sarees.

Question 19

KANTHA (Bengal)

Answer 19

Kantha, derived from Sanskrit, means “rags,” which involves stitching discarded garments, like layers of dhotis
or saris, and a simple running stitch using white thread.
z Kantha embroidery falls into two categories:
 One involves quilting and embroidering piled-up cotton saris, or dhotis.
 The other employs discarded cotton bedspreads and features pictorial embroidery with Tussar silk threads.
z Motifs used in Kantha embroidery encompass symbols like Lotus, Solar, Moon, Wheel, Swastik, Kalka, and
Tree of Life.

Question 20

KANTHA (Bengal)

Answer 20

Kantha, derived from Sanskrit, means “rags,” which involves stitching discarded garments, like layers of dhotis
or saris, and a simple running stitch using white thread.
z Kantha embroidery falls into two categories:
 One involves quilting and embroidering piled-up cotton saris, or dhotis.
 The other employs discarded cotton bedspreads and features pictorial embroidery with Tussar silk threads.
z Motifs used in Kantha embroidery encompass symbols like Lotus, Solar, Moon, Wheel, Swastik, Kalka, and
Tree of Life.

Question 21

CHIKANKARI (Uttar Pradesh)

Answer 21

Chikankari embroidery originates from the Persian word “Chakeen,” denoting elegant patterns on fabric.
z The embroidery is prominently practiced in Uttar Pradesh, particularly in Lucknow, renowned as a Chikankari hub.
z It is also known as shadow work, achieved through herringbone stitches from the fabric’s wrong side, creating
a shadow effect on the right side and outlining motifs.
z Traditionally done on white muslin fabric with white thread, it is now extended to various materials like linen,
georgette, cotton, etc.

Question 22

ZARI/ZARDOSI

Answer 22

Zari is also known as Zardosi embroidery. Zardosi combines two Persian terms: ‘zari’ means gold, and ‘dozi’
means embroidery. Thus, the embroidery is done using gold and silver thread for embroidery work.
z Khandela (Rajasthan) and Jaipur are famous for Zari work.
z The popular styles in Zari embroidery in India are Salma Sitara, Kamdani, Minakari, Mokaish, Gota, etc.
z Another related technique to Zari is Karchobi, which originates from Rajasthan. It involves sewing flat stitches
onto cotton stuffing to produce an elevated pattern resembling metallic threads, similar to Zari.