Doors, Windows, Glazing Flashcards
<p>Door design parameters</p>
<p>visual/aural privacy, security, fire resistance, weather protection, control light, sheild from radiation</p>
<p>consider durability, cost, appearance, ease of use, construction method, availability</p>
<p>consider: door, frame, hardware</p>
<p>hinge jamb, strike jamb/strike side</p>
<p>door handedness: always from outside of door, or where hinge isn't visible;Âleft/right when opening, reverse = swings out toward you</p>
<p>Types of doors</p>
<p>flush, panel, louvered, sash, glass, dutch, french, jalousie</p>
<p>hinged, pivoted, balanced, double acting, pocket, bi-pass, surface/barn, accordian, bi-fold, overhead coiled/roll-up, operable partition, revolving</p>
<p>metal:Âhollow metal doors - steel faces o/ honeycomb of kraft paper, steel ribs, hardboard, edges of steel channels, can have mineral wool for acoustic damping</p>
<p>wood: swinging/hinged most common, hollow-core are 1-3 veneer layers (wood, plastic, hardboard)Âon cardboard interior - has stile and rail frame inside + blocking at hardware, solid-core can have cores of particleboard, stave core/solid blocks, mineral core (for fire rating 45 min - 1.5 hrs)</p>
<p>Door frames</p>
<p>metal: steel (used in fire rated frames 1 hr, one pc welded has to go on before partition is constructed, knock-down KD 3 pcs: 2 jambs, 1 head, or slip on - can see jts)Âor Al (thinner, more elaborate shapes)</p>
<p>wood: more like separate pcs, several different trim profiles can be used, but only get to 20-30-45 min fire rating</p>
<p>All-glass doors</p>
<p>strong glass required, tempered, .5"-.75" thick</p>
<p>can have pivots, hinges, or continuous fittings/shoes, locks often at bottom</p>
<p>all holes cut in factory; cannot be fire-rated; can be exit doors if panic hardware present</p>
<p>Door hardware categories</p>
<p>hanging: hinges, pivots</p>
<p>operating: handles, latchsets, push plates, pull bars</p>
<p>closing: closers, combo pivot/closer</p>
<p>locking: locksets, dead bolts, flush bolts, electric locks, etc.</p>
<p>sealing: weatherstripping, sound seals, smoke seals</p>
<p>protecting: kick plates, corner protection, etc.</p>
<p>Hinges</p>
<p>butt hinges = normal, name comes from attaching to butt end of door, can be surface (on face) or mortise (on butt end), also 'raised barrel' for deep insets, 'swing clear' to allow full clear width</p>
<p>with or without ball-bearings: low-frequency/standard, high-frequency/heavy wt, fire rated</p>
<p>60" doors/Â2 hinges, 60"-90"/ 3 hinges, 90"-120"/ 4 hinges</p>
<p>Latchsets, locksets</p>
<p>latches secure the door temporarily, locks secure them permanently</p>
<p>mortise lock/latch: slides in at butt edge, more secure than bored, can do both dead bolt in cylindrical lock, latch bolt, can retract w single mech., many locking options</p>
<p>preassembled lock/latch: old-school, slid into notch, usu w latch bolt and auxiliary dead bolt</p>
<p>bored lock/latch: make a hole through the door, cylindrical lock/latch, easy, cheap, not so secure, just a dead locking latch bolt</p>
<p>interconnected: cylindricalÂlatch bolt plus true dead bolt,Âoperate w single mechanism</p>
<p>ADA requires lever handles, backsets are btwn 2.75"-5" typ</p>
<p>Other door hardware</p>
<p>pivots: for where hinges can't fit or don't look good</p>
<p>panic hardware: latch action spread across small panel, if rated, then 'fire exit hardware'</p>
<p>push plates and pull bars: for when latching not needed</p>
<p>closers: auto close the door, all exit doors must have closers,Âcan be integral w pivots, and auto close when smoke/fire detected; hold-open exit doors must have this type of closer</p>
<p>door stops/bumpers: prevent door from knocking into adj things</p>
<p>astragals: center strip that seals double leaf doors</p>
<p>coordinator: part of closing action for double-leaf astragal doors so astr. doesn't end up on wrong side</p>
<p>flush bolts: to hold in place inactive leaf, not allowed on exit doors</p>
<p>automatic door bottom: seals bottom of door to threshold</p>
<p>weather stripping: neoprene/felt/metal/vinyl/etc. to prevent air, water leaks at edges, can also smoke seal</p>
<p>Â</p>
<p>Electronic hardware</p>
<p>electric lock: keeps lock secured until signal allows its release, always openable from inside per code if exit door, put must have power transfer to door itself to activate mechanism (hard for retrofits)</p>
<p>electric latch: gripsÂlatch bolt closed unless electric signal releases, always openable from inside, can have power just in door frame</p>
<p>electric bolt: separate from operating hardare, holds closed until electric signal received, but no way to open from inside w/o signal, not allowed on exit doors</p>
<p>input for signal can be key card/fob, key pad, wall switch, key switch, computer control, automatic time control, security console/button</p>
<p>magnetic hold opens: work like fire-auto-closers, to release when smoke/fire detected, but electronic signal used to maintain magnet most of the time</p>
<p>Hardware finishes</p>
<p>steel, SS (these are required for fire rated hardware), bronze, brass, Al</p>
<p>some bronze is bactericidal</p>
<p>Fire rated doors</p>
<p>generally, if wall is rated, door + all hardware must be rated (usu. just a bit less time than wall)</p>
<p>fire rated doors aka labeled doors, bc the fire rating must be labeled on the door w UL listing</p>
<p>often must have panic devices, esp occ over 50 in assembly/educational</p>
<p>minimal glass, specific types of glass allowed (wire mesh, eg)</p>
<p>fire doors must be self-closing or automatic closing (hold opens released by smoke/fire detection), and must have active latch bolt so can't be accidentally opened</p>
<p>hardware must be 34"-48" AFF</p>
<p>Metal windows</p>
<p>Al is most common, has probs w galvanic action (use proper accessories) and conduction (use thermal breaks)</p>
<p>steel is used when higher strength or lower profile is needed, more expensive, often bonderized/shop painted</p>
<p>bronze also sometimes</p>
<p>Wood windows</p>
<p>most common, good insulation, easy to install, sometimes have metal or vinyl layer over ext faces to minimize weathering, called 'clad wood'</p>
<p>species most often pine, fir; sometimes redwood, cypress</p>
<p>operation types: fixed sash, double hung, casement/horizontal pivot, awning, hopper, horizontal slider, vertical pivot, jalousie (glass louvers)</p>
<p>Glass/glazing</p>
<p>glass is the material (silican sand + potash/lime/soda)</p>
<p>glazing is the process of installing or the finish product of having installed glass</p>
<p>Types of glass</p>
<p>float/annealed glass: poured on bed of molten tin</p>
<p>heat strengthened: reheated to 1100 deg F, doubles the strength</p>
<p>tempered: reheated to 1150 deg F and quickly cooled, quadruples the strength, considered safety glass bc doesn't break into shards</p>
<p>laminated: polyvinyl butyral resin sheets between layers of glass, very strong, bullet resistant, high security, is safety glass, good acoustic control</p>
<p>tinted glass: heat absorbing, bronze, gray, green, blue are standard, used to reduce solar transmission of heat, make sure not unevenly lit, or if so, is tempered</p>
<p>shading coefficient: amt heat through lit/not lit portions of glass</p>
<p>SHGC solar heat gain coefficient: total heat absorbed though window/glazing</p>
<p>low-iron glass: has less iron-oxide than reg float glass, makes it light green, good clarity, optimal light and color transmission</p>
<p>reflective glass: metal/metal oxide coating on one side, can reduce solar heat gain, comes in silver, copper, gold, earth-tone</p>
<p>insulating glass: 2-3 sheets w air spaces (1/4"-1/2")Âbtwn each layer, much lower U-values</p>
<p>low-emissivity glass: transmits/reflects certain wavelengths of light, allows in light that is visible but not heating (shorter wavelengths), uses metal/metal oxide coating to reflect back most heating/long wavelengths; if reflective surface is hung in an air space, even more effective, but easily damaged</p>
<p>patterned glass: etched or fritted</p>
<p>wire glass: has wire mesh embedded in middle, not a safety glass, but used for fire-rating (bursts bc flames slower)</p>
<p>spandrel glass: opaque strip of glass concealing floor/ceiling assembly, color from ceramic frit, usu insul. behind</p>
<p>electrochromic glazing: changes from opaque to transparent w current applied; on=transparent, off=opaque (milky white or dark), inorganic ceramic thin-film coating is the only real kind, never truly opaque, can't be privacy glass, can do gradations</p>
<p>suspended particle device (SPD): light abs microscopic particles suspended liquid film that is place btwn glass panels, can be dimmed, gets totally dark</p>
<p>polymer-dispersed liquid crystal film glazing: polymer film btwn pcs of glass, doesn't stop heat gain</p>
<p>fire-rated glazing: clear ceramic, not safety unless laminated; tempered fire glass, only gets to 30 min, but safety glass; 2-3 layers tempered glass w clear polymer gel btwn, if heated, gel foams and slows heat passage; glass block</p>
