Currents, Waves and Tides Flashcards

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1
Q

Name the order of the atmospheric cells from the north pole to the mid-latitudes.

A

Polar > Ferrel > Hadley.

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2
Q

What is the ‘Coriolis Effect’?

A

A projectile fired towards the north in the northern hemisphere has an apparent deflection to the right, and to the left when fired towards the south in the southern hemisphere.

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3
Q

Name the global wind patterns in order from the north pole to the south pole.

A
Polar high
Subpolar low
Westerlies
Subtropical high
Trades
Equatorial low
Trades
Subtropical high
Westerlies
Subpolar low.
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4
Q

What are ocean gyres?

A

A large system of circulating ocean currents caused by the Coriolis effect.

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5
Q

What direction does the water circulate in an ocean gyre located in the northern hemisphere?

A

Clockwise.

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6
Q

What direction does the water circulate in an ocean gyre located in the southern hemisphere?

A

Anticlockwise.

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7
Q

What is an ‘Ekman’spiral’?

A

A structure of currents or winds near a horizontal boundary in which the flow direction rotates as one moves away from the boundary.

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8
Q

What is the equation used to calculate the celerity (C) of waves?

A

C = L / T

L = Wavelength
T = Wave period.
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9
Q

Describe the motion of seawater.

A
  • Water particles move in orbits
  • It is the wave that progresses
  • Orbital diameter diminishes with depth.
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10
Q

What factors do wave height depend on?

A
  • Strength of wind
  • Duration of wind
  • ‘Fetch’.
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11
Q

What does wave speed in deep water depend on?

A

Wavelength or period.

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12
Q

Do waves travel faster if they are shorter or longer?

A

Longer.

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13
Q

What applies when D < L/20?

A

C = Square root of (gD).

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14
Q

How does energy vary with depth?

A

It doesn’t.

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15
Q

What breaking wave type is formed over a flat bottom?

A

Spilling breaker.

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16
Q

What breaking wave type is formed over a steep bottom?

A

Plunging breaker.

17
Q

What breaking wave type is formed over a very steep bottom?

A

Surging breaker.

18
Q

What is a semi-diurnal tide?

A

Where there are two high and two low waters in one day.

19
Q

How long is a lunar day?

A

24 hours 50 mins.

20
Q

What is the effect of the sun at new moon on tides?

A
  • Tide generation forces of moon and sun act in same direction
  • Higher high water
  • Lower low water
  • Greater tidal range - spring tide.
21
Q

What is the effect of the sun at half moon on tides?

A
  • Tide generating forces of moon and sun oppose each other
  • Lower high water
  • Higher low water
  • Smaller tidal range - neap tide.
22
Q

What is the effect of the sun at full moon on tides?

A
  • Tide generating forces of sun and moon and act in same direction
  • Higher high water
  • Lower low water
  • Greater tidal range - spring tide.(So two periods of spring tide per month.)
23
Q

What is the effect of the sun at third quarter moon on tides?

A
  • Tide generating forces of moon and sun oppose each other
  • Lower high water
  • Higher low water
  • Smaller tidal range - neap tide (So two periods of neap tides per month.)
24
Q

How long is the lunar month?

A

29.5 days.