Cosmetics and Protectants Flashcards
What are cosmeceuticals, example?
Some agents to change your appearance that contains a drug:
Toothpaste contains fluoride to make your teeth white
The skin?
The largest organ in the body
Complex, many components, epidermis on the surface
The surface is constantly being renewed
Hair shafts
Sensory endings, sweat and oil glands
Basically, the same for all people, except for melanin levels
What is melanin?
Melanin: Sunburns – melanocytes increase production and insertion of melanin
The only way for a lighter skinned person to get darker skin is to injure their skin i.e. get a sunburn to stimulate melanocytes to produce more melanin
Melanocytes are located at the base of keratinocyte and make melanin granules and insert them in other cells to darken the skin
How does a tattoo work?
Get a tattoo, inject pigments into the skin and these pigments don’t break down
Pigment is injected into dermal macrophages, which have a long life, when the dermal macrophages die, they release the pigment that is then taken up by the new dermal macrophage. So even if the skin is constantly turning over/being renewed the pigment stays around
Pigment can fade over time
What are the different types of sense receptors in the skin?
Thermos receptors – heat or cold
Meissner’s corpuscle – touch
Nociceptor – pain
Pacinian corpuscle – pressure
Structure of the skin is adapted to the location
- There is no hair on your hands and feet but a lot of hair on your head
- There are parts of the skin that are thicker than others, thin behind ear
- Types of glands will vary
What is an ideal location for a skin patch?
Skin patches are useful behind the ear since the skin is thin
What could go wrong with the skin that we would need to use a drug on?
Main one is Acne, affects 85% of human beings in the world, early teenage years or later
What is Psoriasis?
Psoriasis: due to accelerated turnover of the cells, skin flaking off, there are some useful drugs for this now
What is photosensitivity?
The side effect of some drugs, - Antibiotics, diuretics, antipsychotics, NSAIDS, many plants and herbal mixtures
If you go out without sunblock, you can get significant burning, skin is sensitized to UV rays
What percent of the sun’s rays gets through light clouds, mist, and fog?
80%, need sunscreen on cloudy days too
What are 2 types of sun rays?
- UVA rays penetrate more deeply
- UVB not as deep
- Both cause skin injury, wrinkles, broken blood vessels
- Both cause mutations, to cause skin cancer
Tanning is a reaction to injury, not healthy to get a tan
Melanoma risk increases by 59% by tanning beds, banned in most places
Protect eyes from UV too, sunglasses,
Does melanin give more protection from the sun?
The melanin is what gives people more protection from the sun
People with freckles are especially vulnerable to sunlight since there is very little pigment in between the freckles
Photoaging?
Photoaging – the neck, redneck, no protection, wrinkles, and broken blood vessels
SPF (sun Protective Factor)
Buy Broad Spectrum SPF 15-30, waterproof if swimming
What is basal cell carcinoma
Basal cell carcinoma – skin cancer, this one can be treated, some are lethal
How many sunburns doubles the risk of skin cancer in children?
Children: just 5 sunburns double the risk of skin cancer
What percentage of UV radiation does the snow reflect?
85%
What causes acne?
Increases sebum
Increases keratin
Increases bacteria
This triggers inflammation
What are the stages of acne?
- Oxidized sebum (closed sebum)
- Trapped sebum (open sebum)
- Bacteria + leukocytes
Some people don’t go past the initial stages, others are more serious
Early comedo: hair shaft is starting to get blocked
Later comedo: hair shaft is blocked, then it opens, and keratin have migrated to the surface, white blood cells make white puss
Inflammatory papule/pustule, multiplication of bacteria, attracts leucocytes
Nodule/cyst, ruptured, bacteria spreads to other tissues
Blackhead vs whitehead?
Blackhead – open comedo
Whitehead – closed comedo
Cystic acne?
due to a lot of inflammation
What is an animal model for acne?
No animal model
3 main drug targets for acne?
Inhibit sebaceous gland: isotretinoin, hormonal-Oral Contraceptives
Reduce bacteria: benzoyl peroxide antibiotics
Normalize follicular Keratinization: topical retinoids, isotretinoin
Drugs with anti-inflammatory effects
Examples of retinoids?
Tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinol
What are Retinoids?
Vitamin A – generic term for retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid and related compounds – act as hormones and alter gene expression, natural compounds
Major role in cellular differentiation
Synthetic ones, manufactured drugs, similarity in structures, synthesized vitamin A derivatives
50 years of retinoid therapy, relief of many problems
What receptors do retinoids act on?
Receptors in nuclear hormone receptor family
Retinoic Acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs)
Heterodimer formation, to function
Retinoids pharmacodynamics?
Bind to DNA, link to RARE to initiate gene transcription, retinoid-inducible gene activation and repression leads to differentiation, proliferation and apoptosis, immune modulation
Different isoforms of RARs, drugs vary in affinity for subtypes for RAR (RXRs have one main type to bind RARs) allow us to see differences between the drugs and leads to new drug creation
4th generation one is specific to one type of RAR, effective but fewer side effects
Regulate gene transcription through these drugs
What is isotretinoin used for?
In more serious cases oral drugs are used, severe cystic acne, isotretinoin
Why are retinoids dangerous during pregnancy?
Teratogen at low doses, 1st month of pregnancy, malformations of face (skull, palate, ears, jaw), kidney, heart
Gastrointestinal disorders due to retinoids?
- Isotretinoin has been associated with inflammatory bowel disease (including regional ileitis) in patients without a prior history of intestinal disorders
- There is also a possible interaction with NSAIDS/acetaminophen producing GI distress
What are moisturizers made from?
Mixture of oil, liquid (mainly water) and a powder, creams or solutions
What is cellulite?
Cellulite control complex, made up term, fibrous tissues between fat, does not go away because of cream
Skin care ads?
Typical skin cream ads: nurse ad doctor, beautiful person, plants, collagen, elastin, st Ives
Makes your skin less dry, nothing wrong with it but the ads really hook you
They can claim body lift, firming complex (they don’t actually do this)
What materials could be in beauty aids?
Preservatives (because must sit is a jar on a shelf), fragrances, surfactants
Research for what these things do to our skin
Trace metals, affect cellular properties, these can be absorbed
Phthalates: perfumes, lotions, nail polish, hair products, (can they endocrine disruptors)
What could be absorbed slowly, we don’t know what could be altered
Parabens, other materials
Concoctions of plants?
Plants are made up of hundreds of chemical compounds, most are poisonous, not a really good idea to grind up a bunch of plant materials to use on your body
Plants are made of chemicals: created for the plant, not for the human skin
What is Herpesvirus?
A cold sore,
During the eruption, the virus is being shed, transmitting it (kiss a baby), goes into nerve ending of child, works its way up and lives in the ganglia, at some point it gets reactivated, it comes back down through the nerve and then out the nerve ending and that’s what gives you the cold sore/lesion
Primary infection: when it goes up
Secondary infection: Re-activation: when it comes out
Easily spread
Herpes simplex virus?
Anti-herpes drugs are very effective, if you sense you will get a cold sore you can put a cream on to prevent it
A-cyclo-GTP inhibits Viral and DNA polymerase (may also cause chain termination)
If immunocompromised can have painful outbreaks of herpes
How many hairs does the body have?
Body has 5 million;100K on head, high cell turnover
What does the subcutaneous gland do? Where does the hair grow from?
Sebaceous gland lubricates the hair shaft
High cell turnover at the base, since it grows from the base, the part projected out is dead
How much does hair grow in a year?
Hair grows – 6 inches/year
Parts of the hair shaft? (3)
- Medulla (middle)
- Cortex (almost all keratin)
- Cuticle (flat cells lined up on each other)
What is keratin?
Keratin is a coiled molecule, makes up the bulk of the hair, packaged into many microfibrils and macrofibrils
Lifecycle of hair growth?
- Anagen - Growing for 2-6 years
- Catagen - Transition from the active growth phase the hair starts to retract and eventually fall out last a few weeks
- Telogen – Resting
- Return to anagen (hair matrix forming a new hair)
How much hair is lost each day?
Losing hair is completely normal, everybody loses 50 to 100 hairs a day
Follicle growth can vary between seasons
Beard growth peaks in July
Scalp hair sheds in summer
Hormones alter hair growth – rate and thickness
What percentage of hair stays in the growth phase?
The number of hairs stays in the growth phase, usually 80%, but the hair stays in the growth phase during pregnancy, no hair shed. So, after delivery, hormones change, and a lot of hair falls out that would have shed during pregnancy
Ways to damage hair?
Chlorine damage
if brush it back the cuticle will be back
Curling hair can burn the surface
Bleach can damage it
Hair spray, coat hair, thickens shaft, wash of
Why is some type of hair more curly?
There are different bonds in the keratin, weak ones like hydrogen bonds, stronger ones like sulfide bonds
The sulfide bonds are the ones that give hair its quality of being straight or curly, curly more sulfide bonds to keep curls
How to artificially make hair curly?
If you want to make hair curly you need to apply a chemical that breaks the sulfide bonds, then wrap the hair around tubes, then apply another chemical to remake the sulfide bonds (to straighten do the opposite)
How to color hair?
Variations in melanin
Use different depths of melanin
Melanocytes at the base of the follicle make the colour of the hair, eumelanin, phaeomelanin
Gray hair, lose pigment
Peroxide (bleach hair) to lighter colours, sun also bleaches to a certain amount
Types of hair dye?
Sit on the surface of the hair, washes off, temporary on surface of cuticles
Semi permanent on cuticle and a little further on cortex, mostly on cuticle
Permanent: dye in the cortex and cuticle has to be raised to get dye in, very damaging
Bleach: destruction of natural hair color pigments and cuticles raised
Shampoos work?
Superficially, wash stuff off hair
What causes baldness?
Baldness: terminal hairs replaced by vellus (very fine, delicate hair) happens in various forms
Can occur a bit in females, hair thinning
Hair transplants?
Transplant hairs from back of neck to head, hair follicles are different from neck to head, can be helpful
What is rogaine (minoxidil)
Used for hair growth
Increases the size of the follicle and prolongs the hair in the anagen phase
Works well, topically applied
What does Finasteride (propecia) do?
blocks dihydrotestosterone production (DHT)
More effective
What does DHT do to hair follicle?
DHT shrinks the hair follicle, causing a shortened hair cycle, leading to hair loss
Why is 5-alpha-reuctase important in male baldness?
Converts testosterone to Dihydrous testosterone (DHT)
Balding: a big increase in the 5-alpha reductase, more DHT, more transcription responsible for balding
What are 2 products to repair damaged Keratin?
- Olaplex
- K18
Repair the broken disulfide bonds due to treatments and hair damage, dyes
What does Olaplex do?
Olaplex: create an ionic bond between 2 keratin molecules, creates a different bond to replace disulfide bond
What does K18 do?
K18: peptide with 18 amino acids designed to relink the broken keratin strands
Teeth problems?
Cavity prevention
Gingivitis (inflammation of gums)
Tetracyclines are used for what?
used to treat teeth discoloration
What does Fluoride do?
Fluoride, ingredient in toothpaste, strengthens the mineral lattice of the teeth, naturally found in water
Found that less cavities in fluoride rich water areas, helps re-mineralize the teeth
No serious risks
Gum disease prevention?
Colgate active ingredients: phenols, prevent gingivitis
