Cosmetics and Protectants Flashcards

1
Q

What are cosmeceuticals, example?

A

Some agents to change your appearance that contains a drug:
Toothpaste contains fluoride to make your teeth white

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2
Q

The skin?

A

The largest organ in the body
Complex, many components, epidermis on the surface
The surface is constantly being renewed
Hair shafts
Sensory endings, sweat and oil glands
Basically, the same for all people, except for melanin levels

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3
Q

What is melanin?

A

Melanin: Sunburns – melanocytes increase production and insertion of melanin
The only way for a lighter skinned person to get darker skin is to injure their skin i.e. get a sunburn to stimulate melanocytes to produce more melanin
Melanocytes are located at the base of keratinocyte and make melanin granules and insert them in other cells to darken the skin

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4
Q

How does a tattoo work?

A

Get a tattoo, inject pigments into the skin and these pigments don’t break down
Pigment is injected into dermal macrophages, which have a long life, when the dermal macrophages die, they release the pigment that is then taken up by the new dermal macrophage. So even if the skin is constantly turning over/being renewed the pigment stays around
Pigment can fade over time

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5
Q

What are the different types of sense receptors in the skin?

A

Thermos receptors – heat or cold
Meissner’s corpuscle – touch
Nociceptor – pain
Pacinian corpuscle – pressure

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6
Q

Structure of the skin is adapted to the location

A
  • There is no hair on your hands and feet but a lot of hair on your head
  • There are parts of the skin that are thicker than others, thin behind ear
  • Types of glands will vary
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7
Q

What is an ideal location for a skin patch?

A

Skin patches are useful behind the ear since the skin is thin

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8
Q

What could go wrong with the skin that we would need to use a drug on?

A

Main one is Acne, affects 85% of human beings in the world, early teenage years or later

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9
Q

What is Psoriasis?

A

Psoriasis: due to accelerated turnover of the cells, skin flaking off, there are some useful drugs for this now

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10
Q

What is photosensitivity?

A

The side effect of some drugs, - Antibiotics, diuretics, antipsychotics, NSAIDS, many plants and herbal mixtures
If you go out without sunblock, you can get significant burning, skin is sensitized to UV rays

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11
Q

What percent of the sun’s rays gets through light clouds, mist, and fog?

A

80%, need sunscreen on cloudy days too

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12
Q

What are 2 types of sun rays?

A
  • UVA rays penetrate more deeply
  • UVB not as deep
  • Both cause skin injury, wrinkles, broken blood vessels
  • Both cause mutations, to cause skin cancer
    Tanning is a reaction to injury, not healthy to get a tan
    Melanoma risk increases by 59% by tanning beds, banned in most places
    Protect eyes from UV too, sunglasses,
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13
Q

Does melanin give more protection from the sun?

A

The melanin is what gives people more protection from the sun
People with freckles are especially vulnerable to sunlight since there is very little pigment in between the freckles

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14
Q

Photoaging?

A

Photoaging – the neck, redneck, no protection, wrinkles, and broken blood vessels

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14
Q

SPF (sun Protective Factor)

A

Buy Broad Spectrum SPF 15-30, waterproof if swimming

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14
Q

What is basal cell carcinoma

A

Basal cell carcinoma – skin cancer, this one can be treated, some are lethal

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15
Q

How many sunburns doubles the risk of skin cancer in children?

A

Children: just 5 sunburns double the risk of skin cancer

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16
Q

What percentage of UV radiation does the snow reflect?

A

85%

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17
Q

What causes acne?

A

Increases sebum
Increases keratin
Increases bacteria
This triggers inflammation

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18
Q

What are the stages of acne?

A
  • Oxidized sebum (closed sebum)
  • Trapped sebum (open sebum)
  • Bacteria + leukocytes
    Some people don’t go past the initial stages, others are more serious
    Early comedo: hair shaft is starting to get blocked
    Later comedo: hair shaft is blocked, then it opens, and keratin have migrated to the surface, white blood cells make white puss
    Inflammatory papule/pustule, multiplication of bacteria, attracts leucocytes
    Nodule/cyst, ruptured, bacteria spreads to other tissues
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19
Q

Blackhead vs whitehead?

A

Blackhead – open comedo
Whitehead – closed comedo

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20
Q

Cystic acne?

A

due to a lot of inflammation

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21
Q

What is an animal model for acne?

A

No animal model

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22
Q

3 main drug targets for acne?

A

Inhibit sebaceous gland: isotretinoin, hormonal-Oral Contraceptives
Reduce bacteria: benzoyl peroxide antibiotics
Normalize follicular Keratinization: topical retinoids, isotretinoin
Drugs with anti-inflammatory effects

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23
Q

Examples of retinoids?

A

Tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinol

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24
Q

What are Retinoids?

A

Vitamin A – generic term for retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid and related compounds – act as hormones and alter gene expression, natural compounds
Major role in cellular differentiation
Synthetic ones, manufactured drugs, similarity in structures, synthesized vitamin A derivatives
50 years of retinoid therapy, relief of many problems

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25
Q

What receptors do retinoids act on?

A

Receptors in nuclear hormone receptor family
Retinoic Acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs)
Heterodimer formation, to function

26
Q

Retinoids pharmacodynamics?

A

Bind to DNA, link to RARE to initiate gene transcription, retinoid-inducible gene activation and repression leads to differentiation, proliferation and apoptosis, immune modulation
Different isoforms of RARs, drugs vary in affinity for subtypes for RAR (RXRs have one main type to bind RARs) allow us to see differences between the drugs and leads to new drug creation
4th generation one is specific to one type of RAR, effective but fewer side effects
Regulate gene transcription through these drugs

27
Q

What is isotretinoin used for?

A

In more serious cases oral drugs are used, severe cystic acne, isotretinoin

28
Q

Why are retinoids dangerous during pregnancy?

A

Teratogen at low doses, 1st month of pregnancy, malformations of face (skull, palate, ears, jaw), kidney, heart

29
Q

Gastrointestinal disorders due to retinoids?

A
  • Isotretinoin has been associated with inflammatory bowel disease (including regional ileitis) in patients without a prior history of intestinal disorders
  • There is also a possible interaction with NSAIDS/acetaminophen producing GI distress
30
Q

What are moisturizers made from?

A

Mixture of oil, liquid (mainly water) and a powder, creams or solutions

31
Q

What is cellulite?

A

Cellulite control complex, made up term, fibrous tissues between fat, does not go away because of cream

32
Q

Skin care ads?

A

Typical skin cream ads: nurse ad doctor, beautiful person, plants, collagen, elastin, st Ives
Makes your skin less dry, nothing wrong with it but the ads really hook you

They can claim body lift, firming complex (they don’t actually do this)

33
Q

What materials could be in beauty aids?

A

Preservatives (because must sit is a jar on a shelf), fragrances, surfactants
Research for what these things do to our skin
Trace metals, affect cellular properties, these can be absorbed
Phthalates: perfumes, lotions, nail polish, hair products, (can they endocrine disruptors)
What could be absorbed slowly, we don’t know what could be altered
Parabens, other materials

34
Q

Concoctions of plants?

A

Plants are made up of hundreds of chemical compounds, most are poisonous, not a really good idea to grind up a bunch of plant materials to use on your body
Plants are made of chemicals: created for the plant, not for the human skin

35
Q

What is Herpesvirus?

A

A cold sore,
During the eruption, the virus is being shed, transmitting it (kiss a baby), goes into nerve ending of child, works its way up and lives in the ganglia, at some point it gets reactivated, it comes back down through the nerve and then out the nerve ending and that’s what gives you the cold sore/lesion
Primary infection: when it goes up
Secondary infection: Re-activation: when it comes out
Easily spread

36
Q

Herpes simplex virus?

A

Anti-herpes drugs are very effective, if you sense you will get a cold sore you can put a cream on to prevent it
A-cyclo-GTP inhibits Viral and DNA polymerase (may also cause chain termination)
If immunocompromised can have painful outbreaks of herpes

37
Q

How many hairs does the body have?

A

Body has 5 million;100K on head, high cell turnover

38
Q

What does the subcutaneous gland do? Where does the hair grow from?

A

Sebaceous gland lubricates the hair shaft
High cell turnover at the base, since it grows from the base, the part projected out is dead

39
Q

How much does hair grow in a year?

A

Hair grows – 6 inches/year

40
Q

Parts of the hair shaft? (3)

A
  • Medulla (middle)
  • Cortex (almost all keratin)
  • Cuticle (flat cells lined up on each other)
41
Q

What is keratin?

A

Keratin is a coiled molecule, makes up the bulk of the hair, packaged into many microfibrils and macrofibrils

42
Q

Lifecycle of hair growth?

A
  • Anagen - Growing for 2-6 years
  • Catagen - Transition from the active growth phase the hair starts to retract and eventually fall out last a few weeks
  • Telogen – Resting
  • Return to anagen (hair matrix forming a new hair)
43
Q

How much hair is lost each day?

A

Losing hair is completely normal, everybody loses 50 to 100 hairs a day
Follicle growth can vary between seasons
Beard growth peaks in July
Scalp hair sheds in summer
Hormones alter hair growth – rate and thickness

44
Q

What percentage of hair stays in the growth phase?

A

The number of hairs stays in the growth phase, usually 80%, but the hair stays in the growth phase during pregnancy, no hair shed. So, after delivery, hormones change, and a lot of hair falls out that would have shed during pregnancy

45
Q

Ways to damage hair?

A

Chlorine damage
if brush it back the cuticle will be back
Curling hair can burn the surface
Bleach can damage it
Hair spray, coat hair, thickens shaft, wash of

46
Q

Why is some type of hair more curly?

A

There are different bonds in the keratin, weak ones like hydrogen bonds, stronger ones like sulfide bonds
The sulfide bonds are the ones that give hair its quality of being straight or curly, curly more sulfide bonds to keep curls

47
Q

How to artificially make hair curly?

A

If you want to make hair curly you need to apply a chemical that breaks the sulfide bonds, then wrap the hair around tubes, then apply another chemical to remake the sulfide bonds (to straighten do the opposite)

48
Q

How to color hair?

A

Variations in melanin
Use different depths of melanin
Melanocytes at the base of the follicle make the colour of the hair, eumelanin, phaeomelanin
Gray hair, lose pigment
Peroxide (bleach hair) to lighter colours, sun also bleaches to a certain amount

49
Q

Types of hair dye?

A

Sit on the surface of the hair, washes off, temporary on surface of cuticles
Semi permanent on cuticle and a little further on cortex, mostly on cuticle
Permanent: dye in the cortex and cuticle has to be raised to get dye in, very damaging
Bleach: destruction of natural hair color pigments and cuticles raised

50
Q

Shampoos work?

A

Superficially, wash stuff off hair

51
Q

What causes baldness?

A

Baldness: terminal hairs replaced by vellus (very fine, delicate hair) happens in various forms
Can occur a bit in females, hair thinning

52
Q

Hair transplants?

A

Transplant hairs from back of neck to head, hair follicles are different from neck to head, can be helpful

53
Q

What is rogaine (minoxidil)

A

Used for hair growth
Increases the size of the follicle and prolongs the hair in the anagen phase
Works well, topically applied

54
Q

What does Finasteride (propecia) do?

A

blocks dihydrotestosterone production (DHT)
More effective

55
Q

What does DHT do to hair follicle?

A

DHT shrinks the hair follicle, causing a shortened hair cycle, leading to hair loss

56
Q

Why is 5-alpha-reuctase important in male baldness?

A

Converts testosterone to Dihydrous testosterone (DHT)
Balding: a big increase in the 5-alpha reductase, more DHT, more transcription responsible for balding

57
Q

What are 2 products to repair damaged Keratin?

A
  • Olaplex
  • K18
    Repair the broken disulfide bonds due to treatments and hair damage, dyes
58
Q

What does Olaplex do?

A

Olaplex: create an ionic bond between 2 keratin molecules, creates a different bond to replace disulfide bond

59
Q

What does K18 do?

A

K18: peptide with 18 amino acids designed to relink the broken keratin strands

60
Q

Teeth problems?

A

Cavity prevention
Gingivitis (inflammation of gums)

61
Q

Tetracyclines are used for what?

A

used to treat teeth discoloration

62
Q

What does Fluoride do?

A

Fluoride, ingredient in toothpaste, strengthens the mineral lattice of the teeth, naturally found in water
Found that less cavities in fluoride rich water areas, helps re-mineralize the teeth
No serious risks

63
Q

Gum disease prevention?

A

Colgate active ingredients: phenols, prevent gingivitis