Corners, Curves, and Darts Flashcards
Mitered Corner
(SA: 1 1/2”, SL: 2.5) 1. Press two hems at 1 1/2”. 2. Fold common corner to the wrong side lining up creases, press. 3. Sew along the new crease line RST. 4. Trim corner to 1/4” and clip corners. 5. Press seam open.
Inset Corner
(SA: 3/8”, SL: 2.5) 1. Reinforce corners with interfacing. 2. Stitch at 1.5 SL 1/4” around the corner to reinforce. Clip into corner. 3. Sew with inside corner on top, Ls facing opposite directions, pivot, sew. 4. Clip into the corner so everything lays flat.
Inset Curve
(SA: 3/8”, SL: 2.5) 1. Small inset on top, line up outer curve. 2. Sew, pivoting and matching notches. 3. Clip SA of larger piece, wedge SA of smaller piece, staggered. 4. Press open.
Spaghetti Loops
(SA: a bunch, SL: 2) 1. Sew loop at 1/8” from folded edge. 2. Trim to 1/4” total and clip one end diagonally. Flip and cut two 1 3/4” pieces. 3. Create a 3/8” grid on fabric, and place the loops with tape. 4. Sandwich the facing and sew at 3/8”. Grade 1/8” off of facing. 5. Understitch facing.
Couture Dart
(SA: n/a, SL: 3) 1. Sew dart with extra square behind corner for run off. 2. Cut down dart fold to the square. 3. Clip diagonally from dart to square. 4. Clip diagonally to dart point. 5. Trim top to 3/8”. Trim square to 1/4” wider, creating a curve. 5. Press.
Fisheye Dart
(SA: n/a, SL: 2.5) 1. Fold dart in half, lining up centre marks. Press. 2. Sew at 1.5 SL for 4 stitches, switch to 2.5 and keep sewing. Finish with preferred method. 3. Clip centre of dart to 1/8” before stitch line. Press to one side.
Industrial Dart Finish
Run off 5 to 6 stitches creating a chain.
Domestic Dart Finish
Leave several inches of thread, tie a know, trim thread to 1/4”.
Couture Dart Finish 1
1.5 SL at the end, trim to 1/4” tail.
Couture Dart Finish 2
Handsew 3/8” back up the dart with each thread.
