Constructions

Question 1

What complex weaves use two sets of yarn?

Answer 1

• Dolby
• Leno
• jacquard

Question 2

How is Leno weave produced?

Answer 2

• made with special attachment
• paired warp yarns are intertwined and weft yarn is passed through each intersections, producing a firm mesh with lace like appearance

Question 3

Characteristics of Leno weaves

Answer 3

• does not snag
• stronger than plain weave
• warp yarn does not lie 90 degrees to weft, but weft still held in place

Question 4

Name two advantages of Leno weaves

Answer 4

• allow light and air to pass through freely

- increased friction between yarns

Question 5

How is a Dobby weave produced?

Answer 5

• Controls all warp threads using a Dobby
• Every warp thread attached to a shaft using a heddle
• Each shaft controls a set of threads, raising or lowering the shafts creates shed (gaps) for the shuttle to be thrown through

Question 6

How is a jacquard weave produced?

Answer 6

• the easing of each independent warp thread is programmed

- means much greater versatility

Question 7

What are some characteristics of jacquard weaves (4) and what are they used to create? (1)

Answer 7

• used to create large scale intricate patterns using two or more sets of threads
• multi structured
• expensive to produce
• long floats (snagging / low dimensional stability
• hard to clean

Question 8

What are the features of a brocade?

Answer 8

• common jacquard

- raised designs in colour that contrast with background

Question 9

What are the features of a damask?

Answer 9

• common jacquard
• warp and weft normally the same colour
• warp is lustrous and weft a duller yarn, to create visible pattern and reversible fabric

Question 10

what are the features of a tapestry?

Answer 10

• common jacquard

- flora/fauna in multi-colour

Question 11

What are the features of a matelasse?

Answer 11

• common jacquard

- quilted or cushioned fabric created by wadding a double or compound cloth

Question 12

Name three figured fabrics that use 3 sets of yarn

Answer 12

• warp figuring
• weft figuring
• warp and weft figuring

Question 13

Name three pile fabrics that use 3 sets of yarn

Answer 13

• velvets
• corduroys
• bedford cords
• terry cloth

Question 14

How are pile fabrics generally constructed?

Answer 14

• 3 setts of yarn
• one sett of warp and one set of weft form the ground fabric
• extra set forms the loops which can be cut or uncut

Question 15

How is corduroy constructed?

Answer 15

• Base fabric and pile woven at the same time
• 3rd sett of threads is usually weft, which is cut, then brushed to create rows
• veritable rows are called wales

Question 16

How is terry cloth constructed?

Answer 16

Same as corduroy but left uncut to keep loops, very absorbing

Question 17

how is velvet constructed?

Answer 17

• Normally woven on a double action shuttle loom
• two layers are woven simultaneously
• then sheared in the middle

Question 18

Name four fabrics woven using 4 sets of threads

Answer 18

• self stitched
• centre stitched
• interchanging
• velvets