Constructions Flashcards
What complex weaves use two sets of yarn?
- Dolby
- Leno
- jacquard
How is Leno weave produced?
- made with special attachment
- paired warp yarns are intertwined and weft yarn is passed through each intersections, producing a firm mesh with lace like appearance
Characteristics of Leno weaves
- does not snag
- stronger than plain weave
- warp yarn does not lie 90 degrees to weft, but weft still held in place
Name two advantages of Leno weaves
- allow light and air to pass through freely
- increased friction between yarns
How is a Dobby weave produced?
- Controls all warp threads using a Dobby
- Every warp thread attached to a shaft using a heddle
- Each shaft controls a set of threads, raising or lowering the shafts creates shed (gaps) for the shuttle to be thrown through
How is a jacquard weave produced?
- the easing of each independent warp thread is programmed
- means much greater versatility
What are some characteristics of jacquard weaves (4) and what are they used to create? (1)
- used to create large scale intricate patterns using two or more sets of threads
- multi structured
- expensive to produce
- long floats (snagging / low dimensional stability
- hard to clean
What are the features of a brocade?
- common jacquard
- raised designs in colour that contrast with background
What are the features of a damask?
- common jacquard
- warp and weft normally the same colour
- warp is lustrous and weft a duller yarn, to create visible pattern and reversible fabric
what are the features of a tapestry?
- common jacquard
- flora/fauna in multi-colour
What are the features of a matelasse?
- common jacquard
- quilted or cushioned fabric created by wadding a double or compound cloth
Name three figured fabrics that use 3 sets of yarn
- warp figuring
- weft figuring
- warp and weft figuring
Name three pile fabrics that use 3 sets of yarn
- velvets
- corduroys
- bedford cords
- terry cloth
How are pile fabrics generally constructed?
- 3 setts of yarn
- one sett of warp and one set of weft form the ground fabric
- extra set forms the loops which can be cut or uncut
How is corduroy constructed?
- Base fabric and pile woven at the same time
- 3rd sett of threads is usually weft, which is cut, then brushed to create rows
- veritable rows are called wales
How is terry cloth constructed?
Same as corduroy but left uncut to keep loops, very absorbing
how is velvet constructed?
- Normally woven on a double action shuttle loom
- two layers are woven simultaneously
- then sheared in the middle
Name four fabrics woven using 4 sets of threads
- self stitched
- centre stitched
- interchanging
- velvets