Coasts (Topic 1) Flashcards
Why can coastal landscapes be viewed as open systems?
- Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input + transferred to neighbouring systems as an output
What are the components of an open system? (4)
- Inputs
- Outputs
- Processes
- Stores
What is a state of equilibrium in a system?
- When inputs and outputs are equal
What is dynamic equilibrium in a coastal system?
- When the Eq is disturbed, system goes under self-regulation and changes its form in order to restore the Eq - system produces its own response to the disturbance
What type of feedback is dynamic Eq an example of?
- Negative - an automatic response that restores Eq
What is a sediment cell?
- A stretch of coastline and its associated nearshore area within which the movement of coarse sediment, sand and shingle is largely self-contained
How many large sediment cells are there around England and Wales?
- 11
What are the boundaries of sediment cells determined by?
- Topography and shape of coastline
Why are sediment cells generally regarded as a closed system?
- Suggests that no sediment is transferred from one cell to another - held within the headlands (barriers)
Why, in reality, is it unlikely that sediment cells are completely closed? (2)
- Variations in wind direction and presence of tidal currents = inevitable that some sediment is transferred between neighbouring cells
- Many sub-cells of a smaller scale exist within the major cells
How does wind influence coastal systems?
- Winds are the source of energy for waves
- Wind direction can influence the impact of waves (oblique waves = LSD)
- Aeolian processes can erode or transport and deposit sediment
Describe the anatomy of a wave?
- Crest - highest surface part of the wave
- Trough - lowest part
- Wave height - vertical distance between trough and crest
- Wavelength - horizontal distance between 2 adjacent crests/troughs
What is the difference between swell and storm waves?
Swell waves - longer wavelength, wave period of ~20s
Storm waves - short wavelength, greater height and shorter wave period
Describe the process of a breaking wave?
- Wave move into shallow water
- Wave slow down (friction)
- Wavelength decreases = successive waves bunch up
- Deepest part of wave slows down more than the top
- Wave steepens - crest advances ahead of base
- When water depth is less than 1.3x wave height, wave topples over and breaks against shore
Describe a constructive wave?
- Low in height, long wavelength, low frequency
- Break by spilling forwards, strong swash travels a long way up gently sloping beaches
- Long wavelength = backwash returns to sea before next wave breaks = next swash movement is uninterrupted and thus retains its energy
Describe a destructive wave?
- Greater height, shorter wavelengths and a higher frequency
- Break by plunging downwards = little forward transfer of energy to move water up the steeply sloping beach as friction slows swash, so wave does not travel far
- Short wavelength = swash of next wave often slowed by the frictional effects of meeting the returning backwash of the previous wave
- Swash energy is less than backwash energy
What produces tides?
- The gravitational pull of the moon, and to a lesser extent, the sun
- The moon pulls water towards it, creating a high tide
What is a spring tide AND what happens during it?
- When the moon, sun and earth = aligned
= Higher high tides and lower low tides
What is a neap tide AND what happens during?
- Moon and sun at right angles to each other
= Lower high tides and higher low tides
How does tidal range influence coastal landscapes?
- In enclosed areas (Mediterranean) - tidal range are low and so wave action is restricted to a narrow area of land
- In areas where coast is funnelled (Servern Estuary) - tidal ranges can be as high as 14m
What is meant by lithology?
- Chemical and physical composition of rocks
How are coastal systems influenced by lithology?
- Differences in rock lithology = varying levels of susceptibility to erosion, weathering and mass movements = formation of different coastal formations
What is meant by structure in regards to geology?
- Structure concerns the properties of individual rock types such as jointing, bedding and faulting
- Also includes the permeability of rocks
What is meant by porous rocks?
- Rocks which contain pores of air spaces between mineral particles, where water is stored
What is meant by permeable?
- A type of rock that is penetrated by water, either through mineral pores or along joints, faults and fissures
How does structure influence coastal landscapes?
- Important influence on the planform of coasts at regional scale e.g. rock outcrops that run parallel to coast = straight coastlines (concordant)
- rocks that lie at right angles to the coast create discordant coastlines - more resistant rocks for headlands, weaker rocks for bays - Influence on cliff profiles
- horizontally bedded/landward dipping = steep vertical cliff profiles
- strata/seaward dipping = profiles tend to follow the angle of bedding plane
How are ocean currents generated?
- Generated by the Coriolis effect and convection and are set in motion by the movement of winds across the water surface
How do ocean currents influence coastal landscapes?
- Strength of the current = limited impact in terms of geomorphic processes (driven by offshore winds = less effect on coastal landscapes) but the transfer of heat energy = significant- directly affects air temperature, therefore sub-aerial processes
What is terrestrial sediment?
- Sediment from land
What are the main sources of sediment input?
- Rivers - some locations, as much as 90% of coastal sediment comes from rivers
What is the origin of terrestrial sediment?
- Erosion of inland areas by water, wind and ice as well as sub-aerial processes (weathering and mass movement)
What are the other sources of terrestrial sediment
- Wave erosion
- Cliff erosion - increased by rising sea levels and amplified by storm surge events - erosion of weak cliffs in high energy wave environments contributes as much as 70% of the overall material supplied to beaches
- LSD
What type of waves bring sediment to the shore from offshore locations and deposit it
- Constructive waves
What also brings sediment to the shore from offshore locations?
- tides
- currents
- wind - blows sediment from other locations (exposed sand bars, dunes and beaches along the coast) - material is generally fine sand
What is a way in which sediment equilibrium can be maintained?
- beach nourishment
How can beach nourishment occur?
- Sediment brought in by a lorry and dumped on the beach before spread by bulldozers
- Sand and water can be pumped onshore by pipeline from offshore sources
What is weathering?
- the use of energy to produce physically or chemical altered materials from surface or near surface rocks
The breakdown of rock is largely achieved by which weathering process?
- Physical weathering processes
What doesn’t take place during physical weathering?
- Chemical alterations
How does physical weathering allow for more weathering to take place?
- Increase the exposed surface area of the rock
Why are some physical weathering processes ineffective?
- In many coastal landscapes, the presence of sea results in moderation of temperature, so air temperature may drop below 0, reducing the extent of fluccuations
What are the typical physical weathering processes of coastal environment?
- Freeze-thaw
- Pressure release
- Thermal expansion
- Salt crystalisation
How does freeze-thaw work?
- water enters cracks or joints
- expands by nearly 10% when freezes
- exerts pressure on rock - causing to split into pieces
How does pressure release work?
- overlying rocks are removed by weathering/erosion
- underlying rocks expand and fracture parallel to the surface
- significant in exposure of sub-surface rocks
How does thermal expansion work?
- rocks expand when heated/ contract when cooled
- if subject to frequent cycles of temp change, outer layers may crack and flake off
How does salt crystallisation work?
- Solutions of salt seep into pore spaces
- Salt precipitates, forming crystals
- The growth of these crystals creates stress in rock, causing it to disintegrate
What is the result of chemical weathering?
- the decay of rocks
What do chemical processes produce?
- Weak residues of different materials that may then be easily removed by erosion or transportation processes
What causes most chemical reactions to increase?
- Increasing temperature
Where do higher rates of chemical weathering take place?
- tropical regions
Why is carbonation more effective at lower temperatures?
- As CO2 is more soluble in cold water rather than hot
What are the processes of chemical weathering?
- oxidation
- carbonation
- solution
- hydrolysis
- hydration
What is oxidation?
- When some minerals in rocks react with oxygen, either in the air or water
What is carbonation?
- When rainwater combines with dissolved CO2 from the atmosphere to produce a weak carbonic acid
- This reacts with the CaCO3 in rocks to produce Calcium Bicarbonate
What is solution?
- Any process by which a mineral dissolves in water
What is hydrolysis?
- A chemical reaction between rock minerals and water
What is hydration?
- When water molecules added to rock minerals create new minerals of a larger volume
What type of processes may biological weathering consist of?
- Physical actions (growth of plant roots)
- Chemical processes (Chelation by organic acids)