Coasts (Topic 1) Flashcards
Why can coastal landscapes be viewed as open systems?
- Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input + transferred to neighbouring systems as an output
What are the components of an open system? (4)
- Inputs
- Outputs
- Processes
- Stores
What is a state of equilibrium in a system?
- When inputs and outputs are equal
What is dynamic equilibrium in a coastal system?
- When the Eq is disturbed, system goes under self-regulation and changes its form in order to restore the Eq - system produces its own response to the disturbance
What type of feedback is dynamic Eq an example of?
- Negative - an automatic response that restores Eq
What is a sediment cell?
- A stretch of coastline and its associated nearshore area within which the movement of coarse sediment, sand and shingle is largely self-contained
How many large sediment cells are there around England and Wales?
- 11
What are the boundaries of sediment cells determined by?
- Topography and shape of coastline
Why are sediment cells generally regarded as a closed system?
- Suggests that no sediment is transferred from one cell to another - held within the headlands (barriers)
Why, in reality, is it unlikely that sediment cells are completely closed? (2)
- Variations in wind direction and presence of tidal currents = inevitable that some sediment is transferred between neighbouring cells
- Many sub-cells of a smaller scale exist within the major cells
How does wind influence coastal systems?
- Winds are the source of energy for waves
- Wind direction can influence the impact of waves (oblique waves = LSD)
- Aeolian processes can erode or transport and deposit sediment
Describe the anatomy of a wave?
- Crest - highest surface part of the wave
- Trough - lowest part
- Wave height - vertical distance between trough and crest
- Wavelength - horizontal distance between 2 adjacent crests/troughs
What is the difference between swell and storm waves?
Swell waves - longer wavelength, wave period of ~20s
Storm waves - short wavelength, greater height and shorter wave period
Describe the process of a breaking wave?
- Wave move into shallow water
- Wave slow down (friction)
- Wavelength decreases = successive waves bunch up
- Deepest part of wave slows down more than the top
- Wave steepens - crest advances ahead of base
- When water depth is less than 1.3x wave height, wave topples over and breaks against shore
Describe a constructive wave?
- Low in height, long wavelength, low frequency
- Break by spilling forwards, strong swash travels a long way up gently sloping beaches
- Long wavelength = backwash returns to sea before next wave breaks = next swash movement is uninterrupted and thus retains its energy
Describe a destructive wave?
- Greater height, shorter wavelengths and a higher frequency
- Break by plunging downwards = little forward transfer of energy to move water up the steeply sloping beach as friction slows swash, so wave does not travel far
- Short wavelength = swash of next wave often slowed by the frictional effects of meeting the returning backwash of the previous wave
- Swash energy is less than backwash energy
What produces tides?
- The gravitational pull of the moon, and to a lesser extent, the sun
- The moon pulls water towards it, creating a high tide
What is a spring tide AND what happens during it?
- When the moon, sun and earth = aligned
= Higher high tides and lower low tides
What is a neap tide AND what happens during?
- Moon and sun at right angles to each other
= Lower high tides and higher low tides
How does tidal range influence coastal landscapes?
- In enclosed areas (Mediterranean) - tidal range are low and so wave action is restricted to a narrow area of land
- In areas where coast is funnelled (Servern Estuary) - tidal ranges can be as high as 14m
What is meant by lithology?
- Chemical and physical composition of rocks
How are coastal systems influenced by lithology?
- Differences in rock lithology = varying levels of susceptibility to erosion, weathering and mass movements = formation of different coastal formations
What is meant by structure in regards to geology?
- Structure concerns the properties of individual rock types such as jointing, bedding and faulting
- Also includes the permeability of rocks
What is meant by porous rocks?
- Rocks which contain pores of air spaces between mineral particles, where water is stored