Coasts: Systems and processes - Geomorphological processes Flashcards
Weathering, mass movement, erosion, transportation, deposition.
What are the 2 sets of geomorphological processes that affect coastlines?
Marine processes
Sub-aerial processes
What are marine processes?
Processes operating upon the coastlines that are connected with the sea
What are sub-aerial processes?
Land based processes which shape the coastline.
What are the 3 sub-aerial processes affecting the coastline?
Weathering
Mass movement
Runoff
What are the 5 ways cliffs can be eroded?
Hydraulic action Wave quarrying Abrasion Attrition Solution
What is abrasion also known as?
Corrasion
What is solution also known as?
Corrosion
How much energy can waves generate as they break against the foot of a cliff?
25-30 tonnes m^-2
Describe hydraulic action.
A breaking wave traps air as it hits the cliff face. The force of the water compresses this air into any gap in the rock face, creating enormous pressure within the fissure. As the water pulls back, there is an explosive effect of the air under pressure being released.The overall effect over time is to weaken the cliff face. Storms may then remove large chunks of it.
What is wave quarrying?
The impact on rocks of the sheer force of the water without debris, exerting enormous pressure upon a rock surface, weakening it and dislodging pieces
Describe abrasion.
As waves advance, they pick up sand and pebbles from the seabed. When they break at the foot of the cliff, the transported material is hurled at the base of the cliff, chipping away at the rock.
As well as on cliffs, where else does abrasion occur?
Inter-tidal rock platforms where sediment is drawn back and forth, grinding away at the platform
Describe attrition.
The action of waves and currents causes rock fragments in the sea to roll over each other. Friction smooths out angular rock fragments which reduce in size forming pebbles, shingle and sand.
Is solution a form of weathering or erosion?
Weathering, however it contributes to coastal erosion.
Describe solution as a process of marine erosion.
Some calcium-based rock such as chalk and limestone is readily soluble and dissolved minerals can then be removed in solution.
Why can’t solution occur in pure seawater?
Seawater is slightly alkaline with a pH between 7.5 and 8.5.
How can solution occur at the coast if seawater is not the agent for it?
Carbon-based rocks at the coast may be broken down in localised areas where freshwater meets seawater, by water flowing from the land, or by rainwater which may be slightly acidic.
What 7 factors affect the rate of coastal erosion?
Waves (steepness and breaking point) Fetch Sea depth Shape of the coastline Beach presence Human activity Geology
What are the 3 marine processes affecting the coastline?
Erosion
Transportation
Deposition
How does wave steepness affect rates of erosion?
Steeper waves have more energy and therefore greater erosive power than, gentle, low energy waves
How does wave breaking point affect rates of erosion?
Waves that break at the foot of a cliff release more energy so have greater erosive power than those that break some distance from the shore
How does fetch affect rates of erosion?
Waves that have travelled further have generated more energy, so waves with larger fetches have greater erosive power
How does sea depth affect rates of erosion?
A steeply-shelving seabed will create higher and steeper waves, increasing erosive power
How does beach presence affect rates of erosion?
Beaches absorb wave energy so provide some protection against marine erosion.
What kind of beaches are good at dissipating the energy from flatter waves?
Steep narrow beaches
What kind of beaches are good at dissipating high and rapid energy inputs? Why?
Flatter, wide beaches as they can spread out the incoming wave energy. Shingle beaches can protect from steep waves as energy is rapidly dissipated through friction and percolation.
How does human activity affect rates of erosion?
People may remove protective material like sand and shingle from beaches, leading to more erosion.
On the other hand people may reduce erosion by the construction of sea defences, although these may lead to increased rates of erosion elsewhere on the same coastline.
What aspects of geology will affect rates of erosion?
Lithology
Structure
Variation along the coastline
What is differential erosion?
Variations in the rates at which rocks wear away
Give an example of how differences in resistance of rocks has affected rates of erosion.
In the past century, the granite at Land’s End has been eroded by just 10cm, whilst the glacial till of the Holderness Coast has been eroded by 120m
Give examples of types of rock that is resistant to erosion and examples of types that’s vulnerable to erosion.
Resistant - granite, chalk
Vulnerable - clay, sands, gravels
What is lithology?
The physical strength and chemistry of rocks
How does lithology affect rates of erosion?
Physically stronger rocks will be less resistant to erosion
What are strata?
Layers of rock
What are bedding planes?
Horizontal, natural breaks in the strata caused by gaps in time during periods of rock formation
What are joints?
Vertical fractures caused either by contraction as sediments dry out or by earth movements during uplift
What are folds?
Permanent bends in strata formed by pressure during tectonic activity, which makes rocks buckle and crumple.
What are faults?
Fractures formed when the stress or pressure to which a rock is subjected exceeds its internal strength. The faults then slip or move along fault planes.
What is dip?
The angle at which rock strata lie
What kind of cliff profile will horizontal strata produce?
Steep cliffs
What kind of cliff profile will rocks that dip gently inland produce?
Steep, stable cliffs
What kind of cliff profile will rocks that dip steeply towards the sea produce? Why?
Gently sloping cliffs as rock slabs slide down bedding planes
What kind of cliff profile will rocks that dip gently inland but have well-developed joints perpendicular to bedding planes produce? Why?
Gently sloping cliffs as the joints act as slide planes
What kind of cliff profile will rocks that dip gently towards the sea produce?
Gently sloping cliffs
What is a concordant coastline?
Where rock types run parallel to the coastline, with a resistant rock protecting the coastline from erosion, only allowing the sea to break through in a few places.
What is a discordant coastline?
Where rock types run perpendicular to the coastline, causing differential erosion
What makes limestone vulnerable to erosion?
It is well-jointed, so the sea can penetrate along lines of weakness
What landforms can concordant coastlines produce?
Coves
What landforms do discordant coastlines produce?
Headlands and bays
Why do headlands and bays form along discordant coastlines?
Differential erosion occurs allowing the sea to penetrate weaker rocks and produce large bays whilst not eroding harder rocks, forming headlands
What are the 4 methods of marine transportation?
Traction
Saltation
Suspension
Solution
Describe traction.
Large stones and boulders are rolled and slid along the seabed and beach by moving seawater.
Which processes of marine transportation occur in high energy environments?
Traction and saltation
What is saltation (as a method of marine transportation)?
When small stones bounce or leapfrog along the seabed and beach
How does saltation occur (as a method of marine transportation)?
Small particles may be thrust up from the seabed and fall back to the bottom again, dislodging other particles when they land and causing more bouncing movements.
Describe suspension
Very small particles of sand and silt are carried along by moving water and picked up through the turbulence that exists in the water.