coasts general Flashcards

1
Q

what is a sediment cell

A

nearshore closed systems that are self contained- seperated by significant disruptions in the coastline

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2
Q

how many sediment cells in england

A

11

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3
Q

what inputs of sediment are there

A

wind erosion rivers

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4
Q

outputs of sediment cells

A

long shored rift or offshore deopsition

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5
Q

whats a positive sediment budget cell

A

more sediment in than out

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6
Q

characteristics of constructive waves

5 things

A
low wave height 
long wave length 
strong swash 
weak backwash 
depositional
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7
Q

what happens to profile of beach for constructive waves

A

starts out gentle but becomes steeper over time

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8
Q

destructive wave characterstics

A
high wave height 
short wavelength 
erosional 
weak swash 
strong backwash
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9
Q

becah profile for destructive waves

A

steep sea bed and then waves hollow out beach

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10
Q

example of high energy coast

A

holderness coastline

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11
Q

characteristics of high energy coast

A

strong winds
long fetch
erosional landform
steep offshore

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12
Q

characteristics of low energy coast

A

short fetch
little wind
gentle offshore
depositional

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13
Q

example of low energy coast line

A

severn estuary

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14
Q

how is wind created

A

air moving from areas of high pressure to areas of low presssure

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15
Q

what is wave energy affected by

3things

A

wind strength
fetch
wind duration

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16
Q

how does wave form

A

wind blows across water surface - friction causes ripples and then waves

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17
Q

what happens when waves approach beach

A

water approaches beach- shallow water slows down bottoms of the wave causing circular orbit to become elliptical = horizontal movement as wave breaks onto beach

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18
Q

what are tides

A

rise and fall of water caused by gravitational pull by sun and moon

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19
Q

what happens when sun and moon are alligned

A

spring tide

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20
Q

whats a current

A

general flow of water in one direction

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21
Q

whats weathering

A

break down of roack due to exposure in the atmosphere in situ

22
Q

examples of weathering

A

mechanical
biological
chemical

23
Q

what is chemical weathing

A

Chemical weathering is when the molecular structure of rocks and soils are changed, therefore becoming weaker and eroding away.

24
Q

what is mechanical weathing

A

Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical composition.

25
Q

what is biological weathering

A

Biological weathering is the weakening and wearing away of rock by plants, animals and microbes.

26
Q

examples of biologial weathering

A

roots from plants

27
Q

examples of mechanical weathering

A

freeze thaw weathering

salt crystalisation

28
Q

examples of chemical weathering

A

acid rain rusting

29
Q

what is erosion

A

wearing away of rock on coastline

30
Q

factors that affect erosion

7 things

A
wave steepness
breaking point of wave
slope of sea bed
shape of coast 
sediment supply 
rock type of coastlne 
width of beach
31
Q

what is a beach cusps

A

temporary feature that are semi circular depressions that channels swash into centre of hollow with strong back wash deepening hollows

32
Q

whats a rip current

A

strong localised underwater current, build up of water at top of beach due to consistent plunging waves forcing backwahs underwater

33
Q

whats a berm

A

smaller ridges that form at high tide mark form deposition at top of swash

34
Q

storm beach

A

strong swash in storm picks up material and deposits it higher up

35
Q

ridges and runnels

A

spreading out of waves energy energy over a large wide shallow beach

36
Q

factors that affect beach profile

A

wave type
particle size
wave energy

37
Q

where do spits occur

A

occur at changes in coastlne direction where theres LSD

38
Q

what are spits

A

narrow accumulations of sand with one end attached to the mainland and other end extending out to sea

39
Q

whats at the lee of the spit

A

heavy material

40
Q

what cuases hooks

A

changes in wind direction - secondary winds

41
Q

whats a bar

A

spit extends across bay to join two headlands - lagoon created

42
Q

barrier island similar to offhsore bar

A

off shore deposition parallel to the coastline with tips and ridges exposed

43
Q

whats a tombolo

A

spit extends from mainland to island by LSD

island shelters and protects beach

44
Q

how is sand moved usually

A

by saltation

45
Q

what is saltation affected by

A

wind speed
grain size
and dampness

46
Q

what do sand dunes need

A
supply of sand
gentle beach profile 
large tidal range
net deposition 
prevailing on shore winds 
vegetation and obstacles to limit movement
47
Q

what are the seral stages

A

embryo - fore - yellow - grey - mature (woodland)

48
Q

what is plant succesion

A

plant development with time and direction

49
Q

what pioneer species are there

A

sea rocket and couch grass

50
Q

why are the pioneer species suitable

A

they can cope with very dry salty exposed conditions

51
Q

what is typical species found at fore dunes and how are they adapted

A

marram grass with long roots to seek water

52
Q

how do conditions change from embryo to mature dune

A
salinity decreases 
nutrients increase 
shelter increases
organic content increases 
freshwater increases
age increases