coasts general Flashcards
what is a sediment cell
nearshore closed systems that are self contained- seperated by significant disruptions in the coastline
how many sediment cells in england
11
what inputs of sediment are there
wind erosion rivers
outputs of sediment cells
long shored rift or offshore deopsition
whats a positive sediment budget cell
more sediment in than out
characteristics of constructive waves
5 things
low wave height long wave length strong swash weak backwash depositional
what happens to profile of beach for constructive waves
starts out gentle but becomes steeper over time
destructive wave characterstics
high wave height short wavelength erosional weak swash strong backwash
becah profile for destructive waves
steep sea bed and then waves hollow out beach
example of high energy coast
holderness coastline
characteristics of high energy coast
strong winds
long fetch
erosional landform
steep offshore
characteristics of low energy coast
short fetch
little wind
gentle offshore
depositional
example of low energy coast line
severn estuary
how is wind created
air moving from areas of high pressure to areas of low presssure
what is wave energy affected by
3things
wind strength
fetch
wind duration
how does wave form
wind blows across water surface - friction causes ripples and then waves
what happens when waves approach beach
water approaches beach- shallow water slows down bottoms of the wave causing circular orbit to become elliptical = horizontal movement as wave breaks onto beach
what are tides
rise and fall of water caused by gravitational pull by sun and moon
what happens when sun and moon are alligned
spring tide
whats a current
general flow of water in one direction