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coasts exam questions Flashcards

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1
Q

describe the characteristics of a sediment cell

A

closed systems

sections of coastline split into sub cells

headlands act as boundaries

no transfer between cells of material

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2
Q

what kind of influence do offshore currents have on the coast

A

large

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3
Q

how are ocean currents created

A

through earths rotation and convection

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4
Q

what is the global circulation belt driven by

A

salty dense water sinks down

pulls across warm water and nutrients are carried

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5
Q

name 5 transportation processes

A

solution
suspension
saltation
traction
LSD

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6
Q

describe the global pattern of ocean currents

A

warm ocean currents transfer heat from low latitudes to the poles

cold ocean currents move cold water from polar regions to equator

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7
Q

ho

A
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7
Q

how do global patterns of ocean currents affect coastal systems

A

transfer of hear energy directly affects air temp affecting sub aerial processes

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8
Q

what is a coast

A

narrow zone where land meets the sea

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9
Q

what is the importance of coasts

A

50% of the word live on coastal planes

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10
Q

name a
marine factor affecting coasts
atmospheric factor
terrestrial factor

A

wave type and tides

sun and moon and precipitation

rock type

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11
Q

what is a landscape

what is a landform

A

water is the main geomorphic agent

individual shape and character formed from processes in landscape

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12
Q

what is an example of an open system

what is an example of a closed system

A

open- the ocean as matter can enter and leave

the water cycle as matter doesn’t enter or leave

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13
Q

what is a system

A

set of intercalated objects comprising of stores and processes working together

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14
Q

name the two types of systems and explain them

A

open- transfers matter and energy across boundary

closed- transfers energy but NOT matter

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15
Q

what are the main energy and matter inputs in the coast

A

energy- solar energy, gravitational energy, geothermal

matter- rivers (90%), glaciers, offshore, cliffs, biotic

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16
Q

what are the main processes at the coast

A

erosion, transportation, deposition, weathering

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17
Q

what are the main erosional stores at the coast

what are the main depositional stores at the coast

A

erosional- stack , arch , cliff

depositional- spit, beach

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18
Q

what are the main outputs at the coast

A

sediments and landforms

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19
Q

define a sediment cell

what kind of system is a sediment cell

A

a length of coastline which is self contained

closed system

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20
Q

what are the boundaries like at sediment cells

A

headlands or estuaries

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21
Q

what type of energy causes tides

A

gravitational

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22
Q

what is a tide

A

regular rising and falling movements of the surface of the sea caused by gravitational pull of moon and sun

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23
Q

what is a semidiurnal and diurnal tide

A

semidiurnal = 2 high tides and 2 low tides a day

diurnal = 1 high and 1 low

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24
Q

what is meant by tidal range

A

vertical difference between high tide and low tide

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25
Q

what is a spring tide

A

forms when moon, sun and earth are aligned

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26
Q

what is a neap tide

A

forms when sun, moon and earth are at a right angle

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27
Q

what type of tide has the biggest tidal range

A

spring tides

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28
Q

what is the flood and ebb

A

speed of incoming tide

ebb= speed of outgoing tide

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29
Q

what are the significance of the flood and ebb

A

determines how long vegetation is exposed

low tidal range means more erosion due to concentrated water

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30
Q

how do low pressure and high pressure systems affect tidal range

A

low- contribute to cloudy and rainy conditions that are associated with high tides
high- depress sea levels leading to clear sunny days

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31
Q

how do onshore winds affect tidal range

A

may help pile water on shoreline eliminating low tide exposures

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32
Q

how do tapering channels affect tidal range

A

when tide enters mouth the height of the tide is increased by contraction of water

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33
Q

what is the most significant factor overall affecting tidal range

A

high and low pressure systems

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34
Q

what is wind

what are the differences in air caused by

A

movement of air from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure

convection currents

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35
Q

what are global winds and local winds

A

large scale winds and can cause wind to blow in a consistent direction.

local winds are small scale

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36
Q

what are prevailing winds

A

winds that constantly blow in one direction

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37
Q

what is the Coriolis effect

A

describes how global scale winds are affected by the earths rotation

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38
Q

name the 3 main factors that affect the energy of waves

A

strength of wind

length of time wind blows

fetch

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39
Q

what is fetch

A

maximum length of water wind can blow unobstructed

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40
Q

where in the UK has the highest energy wave and why

A

south- farther fetch

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41
Q

what is a wave

A

movement of energy through water

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42
Q

name the main steps in a wave breaking

A

as waves approach coast and water gets shallower friction slows down base of wave

wave becomes more elliptical

as waves get closed to coast friction increases so top of wave moves faster then base

top of the wave curves and breaks

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43
Q

what is a sea and swell

A

sea - formed when wind blow directly on the ocean

swell- formed through wind, fetch and wind duration

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44
Q

what are the 3 types of wave

A

spilling, plunging and surging

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45
Q

what are the 3 main types of currents

A

ocean, coastal zone, tidal

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46
Q

what are surface ocean currents caused by

A

the coriolis efect

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47
Q

what is the Coriolis effect

A

deflection of air

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48
Q

what do ocean currents do to the coast

A

increase temp

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49
Q

how do rip currents affect the coast

A

helps transport sediments

remove sediment

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50
Q

what impact do tidal currents have on the coast

A

can affect weathering

transport sediment

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51
Q

what type of current has the biggest effect on the cost

A

tidal

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52
Q

what is lithology

A

chemical and physical characteristics/ properties of rock types

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53
Q

what is rock structure

A

the ways rocks are disposed or geologically arranged

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54
Q

why is lithology important

A

it varies the speed and types of coastal processes that occur

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55
Q

name a weak type of rock that erodes quickly

A

clay

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56
Q

what is porosity a measure of

what is permeability a measure of

A

how much rock is open space

the ease that water can move through porous rock

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57
Q

how is permeability and porosity similar

A

both measure the effect water can have on them

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58
Q

what significant process does porosity and permeability have influence over

A

weathering

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59
Q

describe the characteristics of horizontally bedded cliffs

A
  • differential erosion occurs
    -produces wave cut notches
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60
Q

describe the characteristics of seaward bedding planes

A
  • produces gentle cliff
  • loose material can slide down
  • rockslides occur because of angle
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61
Q

describe the characteristics of landward bedding planes

A

steep and stable
faces away from erosion

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62
Q

describe the characteristics of landward bedding planes

A

steep and stable
faces away from erosion

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63
Q

what is weathering

A

disintegration and decomposition of rocks in situ

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64
Q

where does sub areal weathering occur

A

above the cliff face

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65
Q

how does the following types of weathering occur

freeze thaw

salt crystallisation

wetting and drying

A
  • water gets into cracks and exerts pressure on rocks shattering it
  • water gets into cracks and evaporates leaving crystals making them larger till the shatter the rock
  • clay rich rocks expand when wet and contract when dry resulting in cracks which are venerable to other types of weathering
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66
Q

what is the most significant type of physical weathering

A

freeze thaw

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67
Q

how do the following types of chemical weathering occur

oxidation

hydrolysis

carbonation

A

oxygen dissolved in water reacts with minerals

when minerals absorb water

dissolving of minerals in water

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68
Q

what are the 3 main factors affecting weathering

A

temp

water and rainfall

lithology and rock structure

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69
Q

what is an example of biological weathering

A

tree roots growing into cracks and putting pressure on rocks

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70
Q

what is mass movement

A

movement of soil, sand and weathered material and tock downslope due to gravity

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71
Q

what 3 main forces influence mass movement

A

gravity

slope angle

water content of sloped material

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72
Q

what are the following and what are they caused by

rockfall

slides

slumps

A

rapid free fall of rock from steep cliff face due to gravity

movement are large material with internal structure retained

a slid with a rotational element producing a curved structure

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73
Q

how does water influence slumps

A

when it rains slumping is more likely to happen

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74
Q

how does the angle of a dip affect mass movement

A

landward dips reduce the chance of mass movement

seaward dips increase chance

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75
Q

when does attrition occur

A

materials bump into each other making them smoother and more rounded

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76
Q

when does hydraulic action occur

A

force of water against the coast causes air to get in cracks and expand

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77
Q

when does abrasion occur

A

coast is worn down by material carried in waves

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78
Q

when does solution occur

A

chemical action of sea water, acids slowly dissolve rocks on the coast

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79
Q

when does wave pounding occur

A

mass and force of breaking wave exerts pressure on rocks weakening it

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80
Q

what is

traction

suspension

solution

saltation

A

rolling of large and heavy rocks along sea bed

lighter sediment suspended within water

sediment that has dissolved will transported

smaller material bounced along sea bed

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81
Q

what is the swash and backswash

A

swash- wave that transports material

backwash- picks up and transports material

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82
Q

which way does LSD usually occur

A

direction of prevailling wind

83
Q

when does longshore currents occur

A

when waves reach a beach and release energy the current runs parallel to the shoreline

84
Q

when does deposition occur

A

when energy levels decrease and velocity decreases

85
Q

what if fluvial deposition

A

when rivers enter the sea due to decrease in velocity

86
Q

what is flocculation

A

meeting of freshwater and saltwater

when fine light materials clump together they become heavy and sink to the seabed

87
Q

when does aeolian erosion occur

A

wind can carry small dry particles and erodes by abrasion

88
Q

what is wind deflation

A

causes the lifting and transport of light particles

89
Q

what is beach replenishment

A

replaces beach and cliff material that has been removed by erosion

90
Q

name the sources, transfers and stores as a river moves into the sea

A

sources - currents and river
transfers- transportation and deposition
stores- mudflats
sinks- river removes sediment from system

91
Q

what is the sediment budget

A

balance between sediment added and removed

92
Q

what is a positive v negative sediment budget

A

positive = more inputs then outputs

negative = more outputs then inputs

93
Q

name an example of what causes a deficit in the sediment budget

A

coastal erosion

94
Q

whats an example of inputs outputs stores and transfers in sediment budget

A

inputs- rivers, glaciers etc
outputs- swept out by sea and storms
stores- beaches
transfers- LSD, longshore currents

95
Q

what is an erosional landform

A

landform that has been created by erosional processes

96
Q

what kind of rock can u fins at the following areas

Purbeck point

swanage bay

ballard point

A

purbeck limestone

clay and greensand

resistant chalk

97
Q

what kind of coastline is around Swanage bay

A

discordant

98
Q

what is an example of a discordant coastline in the UK

A

Isle of purbeck

99
Q

what is Ballard point and what is it formed from

A

headland made of chalk

100
Q

what effect does wave refraction have on headlands

A

concentrates energy on them increasing erosion

101
Q

what is old harry rocks made of

A

chalk

102
Q

what processes occur at a cliff

A

erosion at bade of cliff and sub areal weathering at top

103
Q

what is an example of a wave cut notch in the UK and what does it show

A

Bat’s Head - shows that cliffs are actively being eroded

104
Q

what factors affect rate of cliff retreat

A

balance of marine factors, eg wave energy, fetch and terrestrial eg lithology

105
Q

when do steep cliffs occur

A

when rock is strong and resistant to erosion and dips landward

106
Q

when do gentle cliffs occur

A

rock is weak and dips towards the sea

107
Q

what is a wave cut platform

A

narrow flat area found at base of a sea cliff, created by erosion

108
Q

what are the 2 types of wave cut platforms

A

sub- horizontal and sloping

109
Q

what is an example of a wave cut platform in the UK

A

broad bench in Kimmeridge bay

110
Q

what does a geo look like

how are they formed

what is an example of one in the UK

A

steep sided inlet

when a line of weakness is eroded by waves further widening it

due to faults being eroded more rapidly by wave action

North landing, Flamborough

111
Q

what does a blowhole look like

how are they formed

what is an example of one in the UK

A

vertical shaft that reaches the top of a cliff

inland roof of a tunnel collapses

kiama blowhole, australia

112
Q

what is a cove in a concordant coastline in the UK

A

lulworth cove in Dorset

113
Q

what is a spit

what processes form spits

A

narrow linear, depositional landform

longshore drift and longshore currents

114
Q

what causes spits to become hooked

A

wave refraction and a second less dominant wind direction

115
Q

when does a compound spit form

A

when transport processes are variable over time

116
Q

when does a bar form

A

when a spit grows along an embayment

117
Q

what is an example of a lagoon that has formed behind a spit in the uk

A

slapton ley

118
Q

how are tombolo’s formed

A

by wave refraction

waves slow down close to an island and bend around it causing a convergence of LSD on opposite side
beach sediments moving by transport accumulate there

119
Q

name the 4 main zones on the beach

A

offshore, nearshore, foreshore, backshore

120
Q

how does particle size affect the beach

A

water percolates more easily into a shingle beach so backwash is reduced increasing gradient of beach

fine sandy beaches have reduced percolation leading to increased backwash

121
Q

what affect does steep waves have on beaches

A

tend to be plunging destructive waves which lower beach gradient

122
Q

how do storm waves affect the beach and what forms as a result of this

A

erode beach and carry sand offshore

a low winter profile

123
Q

how do summer swells affect the beach and what forms

A

build up beach by pushing offshore sand bars onto shoreline building high summer profile

124
Q

when does a swash aligned beach form

where in the UK is an example of this

A

when waves break parallel to the shore and there is no significant longshore movement of sediment

Lulworth cove in dorset

125
Q

when do drift aligned beaches form

A

when waves break at an angle to the shore

126
Q

what do berms look like

what are they caused by

A

small ridged that develop on high tide mark

smaller waves with less energy

127
Q

what is a storm beach caused by

A

very strong swash during storm conditions depositing large material

128
Q

what are ridges and runnels caused by

A

spreading out of wave energy causes depressions called runnels

129
Q

what are cusps caused by and what do they look like

A

semi- circular depressions formed by a collection of waves

130
Q

what is an estuary

A

sediment store where sediment is deposited away from fast tidal currents

131
Q

what is a delta

A

large areas of sediment found at the mouths of rivers

132
Q

what is a salt marsh

where do they form

A

area of flat, silty sediment

sheltered areas, where salt and freshwater meet, no strong tidal currents

133
Q

name the steps in formation of a salt marsh

A

1- mud deposited close to high tide line due to flocculation
2- pioneer plants colonise area between high tide and low tide and further trap sediment
3-mudlfats build in height and become colonised by more plants
4-vegetation traps more sediment reducing time plants are submerged allowing more colonisation
5-vegetation creates friction which slows tidal currents
6- land continues to rise and eventually above sea level

134
Q

what are the benefits of salt marshes

A

natural defence against erosion and flooding
productive ecosystems

135
Q

what are the threats of saltmarshes

A

climate change and rising sea levels
human activity and management

136
Q

how are the following at high energy coastlines

wave power

height of waves

sheltered or exposed coast

dominant processes

typical landforms

A

destructive

high plunging

exposed

erosion

stacks, stumps, headlands

137
Q

how are the following at low energy coastlines

wave power

height of waves

sheltered or exposed coast

dominant processes

typical landforms

A

constructive

low spilling

sheltered

deposition

spits, bars tombolos

138
Q

where is farewell spit located

A

south island in new Zealand, separate’s golden bay from Tasman sea

139
Q

name 3 characteristics of farewell spit

A

27km long

width is 0.6-1.25 km wide

comprised of fine, well sorted sand

140
Q

describe how farewell spit was formed

A

rivers flowing from southern alps during floods would transfer sediments to Tasman sea

heavy sediments would sink but finest material was carried to the top of the south island

141
Q

what physical factors helped form farewell spit

A

longshore drift and longshore currents

wind generated waves (60%)

142
Q

how is farewell spit linked to golden bay

A

spit shelters bay from high energy tasman sea

143
Q

name 2 characteristics of golden bay

A

37 meters deep

northern side being infilled by drifting sand and mud

144
Q

name 2 characteristics of saltmarshes and mudflats at golden bay

A
  • occupy area of 320 ha

elevation of 0.3 to 1.5 m above mean sea level

145
Q

name 2 characteristics of the dunes at golden bay

A

over 20 m high

comprised of sine well sorted sand

146
Q

how is the spit and salt marshes related at golden bay

A

spit provides ideal conditions for shelter for salt marshes

results in low energy environment

high sediment supply and low gradient of tidal flat encourages deposition from rivers

147
Q

how is the spit dependant on the bay at golden bay

A

bay provides change in coastal direction for LSD to continue t open sea to create spit

148
Q

how is the bay dependant on the spit at golden bay

A

spit shelters bay from high energy Tasman sea and is effected by prevailing winds protecting it from erosion

149
Q

why are the dunes dependant on the spit at golden bay

A

spit has increasing supply of sediment and has westerly winds which is ideal for dune formation

150
Q

name 3 short term changes affecting farewell spit

A

storms changing shape of spit

tidal flats flooding daily

colonization of spit

151
Q

name 2 long term changes affecting farewell spit

A

prevailing wind can return it to pre storm shape

erosion or landward sea rise increase as sea level increases

152
Q

name 2 human changes over time to the spit

A

lighthouse building

stock grazing

removal of cattle

153
Q

what is eustatic sea level change

A

global sea level change

154
Q

what is isostatic sea level change

A

local change in relation to uplift and lowering of crust

155
Q

which sea level change is a longer term process

A

isostatic

156
Q

name 2 factors is eustatic change caused by

A

thermal expansion( increase in temp means increase in size of water molecules)

ice cover on land (cooling of climate leads to glaciers and ice caps melting meaning fall in sea levels)

changes in shape of sea floor - caused by plate tectonics

157
Q

what is isostatic depression

A

sinking of earths crust into atmosphere due to heavy weight eg ice sheets

158
Q

what is post-glacial isostatic rebound

A

when load on lithosphere is reduced and ground slowly rebound back to equilibrium levels

159
Q

what is happening to land in the north of england

A

still rising due to isostatic recovery

160
Q

what is happening to land in the south of england

A

sinking due to north rising

161
Q

what is a factor that can cause uplift in mountain ranges

A

destructive plate margins causing relative fall in sea levels

162
Q

what is a raised beach

A

once active beach / wave cut platform that are now well above sea level

163
Q

what may cause a raised beach

A

sea level dropping( eustatic)

land raised(isostatic)

164
Q

where is an example of raised beaches

A

turkiare head, new zeland -6.4 m

165
Q

why might a raised beach not loo like a beach anymore

A

weathering, added material

166
Q

what is an abandoned cliff caused by

A

cliff forming processes that have stopped as waves can no longer reach the cliff

167
Q

what is a ria

A

a drowned river valley

168
Q

describe the formation of a ria

A
  • sea levels rise relative to land submerging coastal river valley

sue to isostatic or eustatic sea level rise

resulting in large estuary at mouth

169
Q

give 2 examples of ria characteristics

A

shallow cross section but deep where river channel was

exposed sides

170
Q

what is a fjord

A

long, narrow coastal inlet with steep sided cliffs

171
Q

how are fjords formed

A

when a glacial trough is flooded by rising sea levels

172
Q

name an example of a fjord location

A

new zeland

173
Q

name 2 characteristics of fjords

A

steep, valley like sides

very deep water

shallower at the coast

174
Q

what are shingle accumulations a result of

A

past processes

175
Q

name 2 examples of human activities on the coast

A

urbanisation
tourism

176
Q

what is a shoreline management plan

A

large scale assessment of risks of coastal processes and tries to reduce these risks

177
Q

what are the 4 approaches to shoreline management plans

A

do nothing, hold the line, retreat the line, advance the line

178
Q

what is a cost benefit analysis

A

analysis of cost effectiveness to see if benefits outweigh risks

179
Q

what is hard engineering

A

artificial, manmade structures used to protect coastlines against erosion

180
Q

what is soft engineering

A

natural approach to managing the coast

181
Q

name 2 examples of issues when managing the coast

A

rising sea levels

hard or soft engineering

182
Q

name 2 examples of hard engineering processes when managing the coast

A

sea walls, rock armour

183
Q

what is beach nourishment

A

replaces cliff or beach material- sand is brought from offshore deposits and transported back to beach

184
Q

what is rainbowing

A

extraction of sand from sea bed and it ejects it through the air

185
Q

name 3 reasons why sandbanks needs protecting

A

large number of high value properties

marine, yacht clubs

footpaths and tourist facilities

186
Q

name 2 economic activities that occur at sandbanks

A

hotel and haven bring in spending for the local economy

beach is a major tourist attraction with a blue flag award

187
Q

name 2 physical reasons why sandbanks needs protecting

A

erosion rates becoming worrying(1.6 m ) per year

longshore drift could cause the harbour to become clogged and shallow

188
Q

what was done in the 2 phases to protect sandbanks

A

1- rock groynes and dune regeneration

2- new rock groynes and more dune regeneration

189
Q

name a consequence of rock groynes at sandbanks

A

didnt completely stop erosion

190
Q

why was recharge done at sandbanks and how much did its width increase by

A

to reduce lowering and narrowing of beach due to groynes

50 meters

191
Q

what is the pakari and managawhai beach

A

20km stretch of coastline in NZ

192
Q

what is the significance of the magawhai beach

A

sand is used as a mineral resource

sending dredging has occurred here for over 70 years

193
Q

what is the sediment budget like at the pakari-managwai beaches

A

extraction rates are 5x higher then inputs so stores are depleted

194
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

195
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

196
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

197
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

198
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

199
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

200
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

201
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

202
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

203
Q

what impact has dredging had on the PM beaches

A

beaches starved of sediment and less affective at absorbing waves so eroded

204
Q

what impact has dredging had on the sand dunes

A

base of dunes are being undercut by waves due to beaches not absorbing wave energy

more wind erosion on dunes

205
Q

what impact has dredging had on spits

A

storm caused a 28km breach in spit removing material from dune system

geography (9 decks)

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