coasts EQ2 Flashcards

1
Q

what causes waves?

A

between wind and water, with some energy from the wind being transferred into the water. The force of wind blowing on the surface of water generates ripples, which grow into waves if wind is sustained

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2
Q

what four factors determine the size of the wave

A

1) wind strength
2) duration of wind blows
3) water depth
4) wave fetch

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3
Q

why do waves break?

A

as a wave approaches the shore, friction with sea bed slows the wave so the orbit is elliptical and less concentric. As waves get closer the impact of friction grows, the top of the wave moves faster than the base of the wave. Eventually the top of the wave (the crest) curves over and creates a breaking wave

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4
Q

name six features of a constructive wave

A

Low height
Wave spills
Low frequency
Flat beach gradient
Low energy
Main process is deposition
Strong swash

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5
Q

name six features of a destructive wave

A

High height
Wave plunges
High frequency
Steep beach gradient
High energy
Main process is erosion
Strong backwash

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6
Q

how is wave frequency measured

A

time the gap between the arrival of one wave crest and the next at some fixed point on the beach. Or time the gap between one wave breaking and the next.

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7
Q

what are the differences between summer and winter beach profiles?

A

summer: beaches are steeper, berms are built up, backwash is weaker so more sediment is deposited
winter: high frequency waves, berms eroded quickly, strong backwash transports sediment offshore

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8
Q

what is hydraulic action?
how does it impact lithology?

A

The force of water crashing against the coastline causing material to be dislodged and carried away.
Increase in pressure weakens the rocks around the cracks edges so that small rock fragments are chipped off. More cave/arch/stack/stump formations

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9
Q

what is abrasion?
how does it affect lithology?

A

When small rocks and fragments hit the rock platform, chipping and wearing it away
Steeper beach profiles, rocks become smoother as rough and jagged parts break off.

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10
Q

what is attrition?
how does it affect lithology?

A

Rocks repeatedly knock into each other, causing the rocks to erode or to break. As rocks continue to collide, they erode more and more, getting smaller until they are only sediment.
Finer sediment. The beach material will be finer. Soft rock eroded more quickly into silt and sand particles.

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11
Q

what is corrosion?
how does it affect lithology?

A

The acid in seawater and some types of seaweed erodes particular rock minerals, causing erosion and weakening the rock.
Particular rock minerals like iron are eroded from rock, rock is weakened.

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12
Q

when is the rate of erosion highest?

A

long fetches, high waves, approach coast perpendicular to the cliff, at high tide, heavy rainfall, in winter, permeable rock.

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13
Q

what are wave cut notches?

A

abrasion and hydraulic action cause the air in cracks to be compressed and then explodes outwards breaking off bits of rocks forming a curve of erosion at the cliff base

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14
Q

what are wave cut platforms?

A

created by erosional processes such as hydraulic action and abrasion. As the notch becomes larger, the cliff becomes unstable and collapses as a result of gravity. The overhang collapses and the cliff retreats inland. the platform left after the collapse is the WCP

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15
Q

what is a blowhole?

A

as sea caves grow landward and upward into vertical shafts and expose themselves toward the surface, which can result in hydraulic compression of seawater that is released through a port from the top of the blowhole

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16
Q

explain the cave arch stack stump sequence

A

occurs on pinnacle headlands. Erosion (hydraulic action and abrasion) widens faults in the base of the headland, widening over time to create a cave. Cave will widen due to erosion and sub-aerial processes, eroding through to the other side of the headland, creating an arch. Arch widens until it is unable to support itself, falling under its own weight through mass movement, leaving a stack as one side of the arch becomes detached from the mainland. With erosion attacking the base of the stack, eventually the stack will collapse into a stump.

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17
Q

what is a cliff

A

steep faces of rock and soil that are formed by destructive waves. Waves crashing against the coastline erode until a notch is formed. The erosion of this notch undercuts the ground above it until it becomes unstable and collapses. This process repeats itself and the sea cliff will continue to retreat.

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18
Q

what is traction?

A

larger sediment like pebbles and boulders rolls along, pushed by waves and currents

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19
Q

what is saltation?

A

sand sized particles bounce along either due to the force of water or wind.

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20
Q

what is suspension?

A

lightest sediment (silt and clay particles) are carried in the water column

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21
Q

what is solution?

A

dissolved material carried in the water

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22
Q

what is longshore drift?

A

the zigzag movement of sediment along a beach. The wind blows the waves at an oblique angle so the swash pushes sediment up the beach at an angle. The backwash is affected by gravity so returns down slope at a perpendicular angle.

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23
Q

what is the problem with LSD?

A

too much beach sediment is moved along the coast that the beach can become depleted of its sand or shingle.

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24
Q

how can LSD be controlled?

A

groynes: built at right angles out to sea, made from wood, concrete, or large rocks. Prevent mass movement of sediment

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25
what are the two forms of deposition?
gravity settling and flocculation
26
what is gravity settling?
type of deposition where the energy of transporting water becomes too low to move sediment. Large sediment will be deposited first followed by smaller sediment
27
what is flocculation
a depositional process that is important for very small particles such as clay, which are so small they remain suspended in water. Clay particles clump together due to electrical or chemical attraction and become large enough to sink.
28
what is a beach?
Beaches are accumulations of sand and/or shingle found in the foreshore and backshore zones. Produced by material deposited by constructive waves. Swash has the strength to carry material up the beach, but backwash only has enough energy to transport some material back down the beach, leaving the remainder deposited.
29
what is a spit?
form where the coastline changes direction and longshore drift continues to move material along the beach in the original direction. LSD will deposit material in the sea after the coastline has changed direction. Over time the level of the sand deposited will build-up until it is above sea level. The seaward end is called the distal end
30
what is a recurved spit?
Occurs as wave refraction round the distal end transports and deposits sediment for a short distance in the landward direction. It could be because the wind and wave front are frequently at an opposing angle to the prevailing wind, generating short periods of longshore drift in the landward direction. Or, a strong incoming tidal current can also create a recurved spit.
31
what is an offshore bar?
form when sediment is transported on and off a beach. Destructive waves remove sediment from the beach and form the offshore bar. Constructive waves transport material from the offshore bar back onto the beach. ridges of sand or shingle running parallel to the coast in an offshore zone.
32
what is a barrier beach and bar?
where spits are joined to the mainland at both ends, trapping water behind in a lagoon
33
what is a tombolo?
formed by wave refraction and diffraction. As waves near an island, they are slowed by the shallow water surrounding it. These waves then bend around the island to the opposite side as they approach.
34
what are cuspate forelands?
found on coastlines that are created primarily by longshore drift. Formed by accumulation and progradation of sand and shingle, they extend outwards from the shoreline in a triangular shape.
35
how can depositional landforms be stabilised?
Plant succession such as in salt marshes and sand dunes binds the loose sediment together and encourage further deposition. Vegetation can help to trap and stabilise the sediment to make it stronger against the wind and waves.
36
what are the inputs/sources of a sediment cell?
where sediment is made, cliffs or eroding sand dunes. Some sources are offshore bars and river systems and these are an important source of sediment for the coast. For example cliff erosion, currents onshore, wind blown (aeolian) sediment from land, river transport, marine organisms, and subaerial processes.
37
what are the transfers of a sediment cell?
sediment moving along; swash, backwash, tidal currents, sea/ocean currents, longshore drift, wind (onshore, offshore or along shore)
38
what are the outputs/sinks of a sediment cell?
where the dominant process is depositional landforms are created, including spits and offshore bars. Some examples of sinks are backshore depositional landforms (sand dunes), foreshore depositional landforms (beaches), nearshore depositional landforms (bars), offshore depositional landforms (barrier islands)
39
what is the sediment cell case study?
portland bill to selsey bill south england
40
what is the geology of the area between portland bill and selsey bill?
Selsey Bill is sedimentary bedrock: sand, silt, and clay. This rock is easily eroded. Portland Bill is also sedimentary, made of limestone. The geology at Selsey bill is less resistant than at Portland Bill.
41
what are the two types of mechanical weathering?
freeze thaw weathering salt crystallisation
42
what is freeze thaw weathering
mechanical weathering: when water enters a crack or joint in the rock when it rains. And then freezes, the water expands by 10% this expansion exerts pressure and widens the crack. Fragments of rock break away forming scree.
43
what is salt crystallisation?
mechanical weathering: when salt water evaporates it leaves salt crystals behind. These can grow and exert pressure on the rock so it breaks up
44
what are the three types of chemical weathering?
hydrolysis oxidation carbonation
45
what is hydrolysis?
chemical weathering: occurs when water reacts with minerals in the rock causing the chemical composition of the rock to change and become more unstable.
46
what is carbonation?
chemical weathering: rain absorbs carbon dioxide from the air to form a weak carbonic acid. This reacts with calcium carbonate in rocks like limestone and chalk to form calcium carbonate, which is easily dissolved.
47
what is oxidation
chemical weathering: occurs when oxygen reacts with minerals such as calcium and magnesium to form iron oxide
48
what are the two types of biological weathering?
plant roots and rock boring
49
what is plant roots weathering?
biological- plant roots start to grow into small cracks in a cliff face. These cracks widen as the roots grow thicker, this breaks up the rock
50
what is rock boring weathering?
biological: when animals can move rocks to the surface where they are open to weathering. Animals like limpets also secrete chemicals causing rocks to dissolve. Birds and animals dig burrows into cliffs. Water which runs through decaying vegetation becomes acidic and increases chemical weathering
51
what is mass movement?
Mass Movement: material is moved due to gravity. The downslope movement of rocks and soil from the cliff top under the influence of gravity. Mass movement can provide an input of material to the coastal system, which is carried away by waves and deposited further along the coast.
52
what is rock fall?
SLIDE mass movement occur when strong, jointed and steep rock faces are exposed to mechanical weathering. Rock falls occur on slopes over 40 degrees. Material once broken away from the source forms scree or talus at the foot of the slope. Block falls are when larger blocks of rock fall away as a single place.
53
what is rock debris slide?
SLIDE mass movement Rocks that are jointed or have bedding planes roughly parallel to the slope are susceptible. Increase in water can reduce friction causing sliding. In a rock or landslide, slabs of rock can slide over underlying rocks along a slide or slip plane
54
what is topple?
slide mass movement Pieces of rock or cliff face fall forward as large blocks due to forward rotation down a slope. Occurs around an axis at the base of the block of rock.
55
what is a translational slide?
SLIDE mass movement a downslope movement of material that occurs along a distinctive planar surface of weakness such as a fault, joint or bedding plane
56
what is rotational slumping?
SLIDE mass movement a downslope movement of material that occurs along a distinctive planar surface of weakness such as a fault, joint or bedding plane
57
what is an earth / mud flow?
FLOW mass movement Occur when the material behaves more like a liquid or fluid due to a high water content and unconsolidated material which causes slope material to lose cohesion, turning it into slurry.
58
what is soil creep?
FLOW mass movement Slowest form, a continuous process of downhill movement of individual soil particles.
59
what does the type of mass movement depend on?
the angle of the slope, the rock’s lithology and geology, the vegetation cover on the cliff face, the saturation of the ground/ previous weather patterns.
60
what is solifluction?
FLOW mass movement Between 5 cm and 100 cm annually. Mainly in tundra areas where ground is frozen- surface layer becomes saturated and flows over the frozen subsoil and rock
61
name some effects of mass movement and weathering?
loss of businesses from tourism loss of land land unstable or unsafe buildings to collapse injury death
62
what is a rotational scar?
mass movement landform. looks like a fresh curved unweathered and unvegetated rock surface on a cliff face. Left behind from rotational slumping. When heavy rain is absorbed by unconsolidated material, it makes up the cliff. The cliff face becomes heavier and unstable so it separates from the material behind at a rain-lubricated slip plane. The surface of the rupture is curved concavely upward.
63
what is a talus scree slope?
Talus is the unstable steep mountain slope composed of rock fragments and other debris. It is material that has accumulated at the base of a projecting mass of rock, or talus slope.
64