coasts EQ2 Flashcards
what causes waves?
between wind and water, with some energy from the wind being transferred into the water. The force of wind blowing on the surface of water generates ripples, which grow into waves if wind is sustained
what four factors determine the size of the wave
1) wind strength
2) duration of wind blows
3) water depth
4) wave fetch
why do waves break?
as a wave approaches the shore, friction with sea bed slows the wave so the orbit is elliptical and less concentric. As waves get closer the impact of friction grows, the top of the wave moves faster than the base of the wave. Eventually the top of the wave (the crest) curves over and creates a breaking wave
name six features of a constructive wave
Low height
Wave spills
Low frequency
Flat beach gradient
Low energy
Main process is deposition
Strong swash
name six features of a destructive wave
High height
Wave plunges
High frequency
Steep beach gradient
High energy
Main process is erosion
Strong backwash
how is wave frequency measured
time the gap between the arrival of one wave crest and the next at some fixed point on the beach. Or time the gap between one wave breaking and the next.
what are the differences between summer and winter beach profiles?
summer: beaches are steeper, berms are built up, backwash is weaker so more sediment is deposited
winter: high frequency waves, berms eroded quickly, strong backwash transports sediment offshore
what is hydraulic action?
how does it impact lithology?
The force of water crashing against the coastline causing material to be dislodged and carried away.
Increase in pressure weakens the rocks around the cracks edges so that small rock fragments are chipped off. More cave/arch/stack/stump formations
what is abrasion?
how does it affect lithology?
When small rocks and fragments hit the rock platform, chipping and wearing it away
Steeper beach profiles, rocks become smoother as rough and jagged parts break off.
what is attrition?
how does it affect lithology?
Rocks repeatedly knock into each other, causing the rocks to erode or to break. As rocks continue to collide, they erode more and more, getting smaller until they are only sediment.
Finer sediment. The beach material will be finer. Soft rock eroded more quickly into silt and sand particles.
what is corrosion?
how does it affect lithology?
The acid in seawater and some types of seaweed erodes particular rock minerals, causing erosion and weakening the rock.
Particular rock minerals like iron are eroded from rock, rock is weakened.
when is the rate of erosion highest?
long fetches, high waves, approach coast perpendicular to the cliff, at high tide, heavy rainfall, in winter, permeable rock.
what are wave cut notches?
abrasion and hydraulic action cause the air in cracks to be compressed and then explodes outwards breaking off bits of rocks forming a curve of erosion at the cliff base
what are wave cut platforms?
created by erosional processes such as hydraulic action and abrasion. As the notch becomes larger, the cliff becomes unstable and collapses as a result of gravity. The overhang collapses and the cliff retreats inland. the platform left after the collapse is the WCP
what is a blowhole?
as sea caves grow landward and upward into vertical shafts and expose themselves toward the surface, which can result in hydraulic compression of seawater that is released through a port from the top of the blowhole
explain the cave arch stack stump sequence
occurs on pinnacle headlands. Erosion (hydraulic action and abrasion) widens faults in the base of the headland, widening over time to create a cave. Cave will widen due to erosion and sub-aerial processes, eroding through to the other side of the headland, creating an arch. Arch widens until it is unable to support itself, falling under its own weight through mass movement, leaving a stack as one side of the arch becomes detached from the mainland. With erosion attacking the base of the stack, eventually the stack will collapse into a stump.
what is a cliff
steep faces of rock and soil that are formed by destructive waves. Waves crashing against the coastline erode until a notch is formed. The erosion of this notch undercuts the ground above it until it becomes unstable and collapses. This process repeats itself and the sea cliff will continue to retreat.
what is traction?
larger sediment like pebbles and boulders rolls along, pushed by waves and currents
what is saltation?
sand sized particles bounce along either due to the force of water or wind.
what is suspension?
lightest sediment (silt and clay particles) are carried in the water column
what is solution?
dissolved material carried in the water
what is longshore drift?
the zigzag movement of sediment along a beach. The wind blows the waves at an oblique angle so the swash pushes sediment up the beach at an angle. The backwash is affected by gravity so returns down slope at a perpendicular angle.
what is the problem with LSD?
too much beach sediment is moved along the coast that the beach can become depleted of its sand or shingle.
how can LSD be controlled?
groynes: built at right angles out to sea, made from wood, concrete, or large rocks. Prevent mass movement of sediment