Coasts Flashcards

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1
Q

What are the size and energy of a wave influenced by?

A
  • How long the wind has been blowing.
  • The strength of the wind.
  • How far the wave travelled (Fetch).

How the waves affect the coastline

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2
Q

What is a swash?

A

Forward movement of a wave up a beach.

How the waves affect the coastline

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3
Q

What is a backwash?

A

Is the movements of waves back into the ocean.

How the waves affect the coastline

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4
Q

What is a Constructive wave & Destructive wave?

A

Constructive Wave: Swash bigger than backwash. (Long wavelength)

Destructive Wave: Backwash bigger than swash. (Short wavelength)

How the waves affect the coastline

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5
Q

Erosion, Transportation and deposition.

Define what is Erosion & Transportation & Deposition.

A

Erosion: Breaking up of land
Transportation: Movement of materials
Deposition: Dropping off of material

More Energy = erosion, Less energy = deposition

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6
Q

Erosion, Transportation and deposition.

What is the process of erosion?

A
  1. Hydraulic action - Waves that ‘smash’ into the base of the cliff
  2. Atrition - Pieces of rock hit eachother and break off.
  3. Abrasion - Rocks that rub against eachother and smooth out.
  4. Corrosion - Acids in water dissolve rock
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7
Q

Erosion, Transportation and deposition.

What is the process of transportation?

A
  1. Traction - Larger rocks roll along the sea bed.
  2. saltation - smaller stones ‘bounce’ along seabed.
  3. Suspension - Lighter, finer material carried by the water.
  4. Solution - The transport of dissolved chemical rocks.
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8
Q

Define Longshore drift.

A

The zigzag movement of sediment along the beach, strong swash takes particles up onto the beach at an angle (Due to wind direction), backwash when stronger takes them back out at 90 Degrees.

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9
Q

What is the deposition on coasts?

A
  • The dropping off of materials, when the wave have no energy.
  • Largest/heaviest bits deposited first because too much energy is required to carry them.
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10
Q

Mass Movement

Define Mass Movement.

A

Is the downhill movement of sediment that moves under the influence of gravity and weather

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11
Q

Mass Movement

State what they are.

(Rockfall, mudflow, landslide, rotational slip)

A
  1. Rockfall - Bits of rock fall off the cliff face.
  2. mudflow - soil flows down a slope.
  3. Landslide - Large blocks of rock slide downfall.
  4. Rotational slip - Saturated soil slumps down a curved surface.
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12
Q

Mass movement.

what is saturated soil?

A

Soil that has reached the maximum capacity to hold water

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13
Q

Physical weathering

What is freeze thaw weathering?

A

When water gets into a gap and freezes, water expands. Ice melts, larger gap fits with water, repeat until rock breaks

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14
Q

Physical wethearing

What is onion skin?

A

Hot during days, cold at night, surface expands and contact

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15
Q

Physical Wethearing

What is Acid rain?

A

Rainwater is acidic, ‘acidic rain’ weathers rock

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16
Q

Physical wethearing

What is biological weathering?

A

Plants grow in rock, animals walking on the rock

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17
Q

Coastal Landform.

How is a headland formed?

A

On a headland, erosion exploits any source of weakness creating a cave at first. Once the cave reaches both sides of the headland, it forms an arch. A collapse at the top of the arch forms a stack. Once the stack is eroded it forms a stump.

18
Q

Coastal Landform.

What are characteristics of wave-cut notch platform?

A
  1. Found infront of retreating cliffs, extended out to sea.
  2. A flat, often smooth surface. exposed at low tide
19
Q

Coastal Landform.

What is a spit?

A

A depositional land form formed when LSD continues to occur over a coast.

20
Q

Coastal ecosystem

What is a sand dune?

A

build up of sand complimenting the direction of wind. usually formed in beaches, deserts.
Features:
- vegatation : Plants like marram grass help stabalize the dunes by holding the sand together with their roots.

21
Q

Influences on coastal ecosystem

what is it ment by Geology?

A

Types of rock:
1. Hard rock.
2. Soft rock.

Remeber Hard rock erodes slower where as Soft rock erodes faster.

22
Q

Coastal ecosystem

What are salt-marshes?

A

shelterd area of land behind the hook were the tides have very low energy.
Features:
Tidal flooding: The area is regularly coverd by sea water during high tides and exposed during low tides.

They also have high oxygen content.

23
Q

Coastal ecosystem

features of salt marsheses?

A
  • Thye are communities of non-woody, salty-tolerant plants.
  • they begin as tidal mudflat gaining height as more sediment is deposited.
  • tides very low energy
24
Q

threats to the coastal ecosystem.

What are 4 main threats to the coastal ecosystem?

A

Industrilistation, Argiculture, tourism, and deforistation.

25
Q

Threats to the coastal ecosystem.

What are the threats to coral reef?

A

Coral reef can suffer physical damage including: Quarrying, dredging, amd destructive fishing particles. Other threats may include Pollution, Sewage, overfishing, global climate change.

26
Q

Threats to the coastal ecosystem.

What are the threats to mangroves?

A

They face various threats, including deforestation from wood and charcoal Clearance for coastal development, pollution, temperature increase from near by power plants.

27
Q

Causes of coastal flooding.

Coastal floods are caused by many factors. what are they?

A
  1. Storm surges
  2. tsunami
  3. increasingly global climate change.
28
Q

Causes of coastal flooding.

What are storm surges?

A

A storm surge is caused by a rapid rise in sea level caused by high wind pressure.

29
Q

Causes of coastal flooding.

What is prediction?

A

Most storms are tracked by satelliets, especially though (HIC’s) countries. It is difficult to give much notice on tsunamis given their wind speed. Although there is a particular Tsunami warning system.

30
Q

Causes of coastal flooding?

What is building design?

A

The primary objective of coastal flood engineering is to prevent coastal erosion and coastal flooding. 1. You can raise the height of the buildings, this allows the water to pass beneath the building. 2. Flood proof buildings through raised foundations, reinforced barriers.

31
Q

Coastal Managment strategies.

What is hard engineering?

A

Hard engineerings attempts to manage coastal areas by alternating natrual processes through the use of man-made structures.

They include: sea walls, rock armour, revetments, groynes, cliff drains.

32
Q

Coastal managment strategies.

what is soft engineering?

A

Attempts to manage the coastal erosion/flooding by working with nature.

e.g. Beach nourishment

33
Q

Coastl managment strategies.

Evalute hard engineering structures.

A

what is a sea wall and advantage & disadvantage:
A sea wall is a solid barrier constructed perpendicular to the shoreline. They are designed to absorb energy and prevent erosion.
advantage:
-provide strong protection against storm
- Good in high density areas.
-disadvantage:
- expensive to build & maintain.
Revetments:
A slopping structure made from concrete, rocks or other materials, placed on banks or cliffs. They absorb and deflect wave energy.
advantage:
-reduce wave energy/prevent erosion.
-cheaper than seawall.
disadvantage:
- can be expensive to build out and maintain.
Gabions:
rock held in wire cages to absorb wave energy.
advantage:
- relatively cheap to construct.
- disadvantage:
- small scale
- Gryones:
barriers or a wall built perpendicular to the shoreline, extended from the beach to the water. they trap sediment from longshore drift.
advantage:
-reduce coastal erosion locally
-easily repaired
disadvantage:
-interupts sediment flow.
Rock armour:
large rock at the base of the cliff to absorb wave energy.
advantage:
durable and requores little maintanence.
disadvantage:
can be costly to transport the necessary material.

34
Q

Coastal managment strategies

evaluate soft engineering structures.

A

beach replenishment:
samd pumped from seabed to replace eroded sand
advantage:
-looks natrual
disadvantage:
-expensive
-short term-solution
cliff regrading:
lowering of slope angle to make cliff safer.
advantage:
-reduces the risk of landslides and erosion
disadvantage:
- can be expensive.
- may lead to loss of habitat.
ecosystem rehabitation and revegatation:
restoring coastal ecosystem.
advantage:
-looks natrual.
disadvantage:
- can take long time to achieve.
managed retreat:
allows shoreline to move natrually, coastline allowed to retreat in certain places.
advantage:
-cost effective.
disadvantage:
-unpopular

35
Q

What are Abiotic and Biotic characteristics?

A

Abiotic:
1. water
2. humidity
3. light
biotic:
1. Animals
2. plant
3. fungi

Remember Abiotic as ‘are not living’ and Biotic as ‘living’.

36
Q

What are requirments of coral reef?

A

-warm water at a minimum temperature of 18.
-formed at depth exceeding 25 meters.
-grows faster in clear water which allows the sunlight to penetrate
-grows in saltwater.

37
Q

what are disturbution of coral reefs?

A

-between 30 north and 30 south of the equator.
-between the tropics of cancer and capricorn.

38
Q

What are Mangrove requirnment and distrubution?

A

requirment:
- lives in salt water
- intertidal zone
disturbution:
-in the tropics

39
Q

Give 3 examples of erosional landforms.

A
  • Caves
  • Arch
  • Stack
  • Stump
  • wave-cut notch
  • headlands
  • bays
40
Q

Give 3 examples of depositational landforms

A
  • Beaches
  • Spit
  • Sand dunes
  • bars
41
Q

Sand bar

What is a sand bar.

A

Sand Bar is when longshore drift contineous to occur over a bay.