Coasts Flashcards
What are the size and energy of a wave influenced by?
- How long the wind has been blowing.
- The strength of the wind.
- How far the wave travelled (Fetch).
How the waves affect the coastline
What is a swash?
Forward movement of a wave up a beach.
How the waves affect the coastline
What is a backwash?
Is the movements of waves back into the ocean.
How the waves affect the coastline
What is a Constructive wave & Destructive wave?
Constructive Wave: Swash bigger than backwash. (Long wavelength)
Destructive Wave: Backwash bigger than swash. (Short wavelength)
How the waves affect the coastline
Erosion, Transportation and deposition.
Define what is Erosion & Transportation & Deposition.
Erosion: Breaking up of land
Transportation: Movement of materials
Deposition: Dropping off of material
More Energy = erosion, Less energy = deposition
Erosion, Transportation and deposition.
What is the process of erosion?
- Hydraulic action - Waves that ‘smash’ into the base of the cliff
- Atrition - Pieces of rock hit eachother and break off.
- Abrasion - Rocks that rub against eachother and smooth out.
- Corrosion - Acids in water dissolve rock
Erosion, Transportation and deposition.
What is the process of transportation?
- Traction - Larger rocks roll along the sea bed.
- saltation - smaller stones ‘bounce’ along seabed.
- Suspension - Lighter, finer material carried by the water.
- Solution - The transport of dissolved chemical rocks.
Define Longshore drift.
The zigzag movement of sediment along the beach, strong swash takes particles up onto the beach at an angle (Due to wind direction), backwash when stronger takes them back out at 90 Degrees.
What is the deposition on coasts?
- The dropping off of materials, when the wave have no energy.
- Largest/heaviest bits deposited first because too much energy is required to carry them.
Mass Movement
Define Mass Movement.
Is the downhill movement of sediment that moves under the influence of gravity and weather
Mass Movement
State what they are.
(Rockfall, mudflow, landslide, rotational slip)
- Rockfall - Bits of rock fall off the cliff face.
- mudflow - soil flows down a slope.
- Landslide - Large blocks of rock slide downfall.
- Rotational slip - Saturated soil slumps down a curved surface.
Mass movement.
what is saturated soil?
Soil that has reached the maximum capacity to hold water
Physical weathering
What is freeze thaw weathering?
When water gets into a gap and freezes, water expands. Ice melts, larger gap fits with water, repeat until rock breaks
Physical wethearing
What is onion skin?
Hot during days, cold at night, surface expands and contact
Physical Wethearing
What is Acid rain?
Rainwater is acidic, ‘acidic rain’ weathers rock
Physical wethearing
What is biological weathering?
Plants grow in rock, animals walking on the rock