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coasts Flashcards

1
Q

sediment cells

A

Coasts can be split into sections called sediment cells which are often bordered by prominent headlands.

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2
Q

how many sediment cells are in the uk?

A

11

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3
Q

coastal inputs

A

marine:
-waves
Atmosphere:
-wind
humans:
-pollution

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4
Q

coastal outputs

A

-currents
-riptides
-evaporation

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5
Q

coastal transfers

A

-longshore drift
-erosion

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6
Q

hydraulic action

A

water crashing against the coastline causing material to be dislodged and carried away by the sea.

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7
Q

corrosion

A

a process of chemical erosion.

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8
Q

attrition

A

rocks hit against each other

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9
Q

abrasion

A

rocks carried by the sea are picked up by strong waves and thrown against the coastline.

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10
Q

coastal stores

A

-beaches
-dunes
-spits

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11
Q

rivers as a sediment source

A

-account for majority of sediment

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12
Q

sediment sources

A

-rivers
-cliff erosion
-wind

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13
Q

sediment budget

A

the balance of inputs and outputs in the coastal system

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14
Q

littoral zone

A

area of land between the cliff’s or dunes on the coast and the
sea.

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15
Q

short term factors impacting the littoral zone

A

-tides
-storm surges

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16
Q

long term factors impacting the littoral zone

A

-changes in sea level
-human intervention

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17
Q

wave formation

A

• Wind blows across the sea surface.
• Energy from the wind is transferred to the water.
• The water moves in a circular motion.
• as the water gets more shallow waves grow in height

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18
Q

factors effecting wave energy

A

-strength of wind
-duration of wind

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19
Q

constructive wave characteristics

A

-long wavelength
-6-9 per min
-strong swash, weak backwash

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20
Q

destructive wave characteristics

A

-short wavelength
-25 per min
-weak swash, strong backwash

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21
Q

spring tide

A

-highest high tide, lowest low tide
-occur when the sun and the moon are in
alignment, so their gravitational forces work with each other

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22
Q

neap tide

A

-lowest high tide and the highest low tides -when the sun and the moon are
perpendicular to each other, so their gravitational forces work against each other

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23
Q

rip currents

A

powerful underwater currents occurring in areas close to the shoreline

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24
Q

wave refraction

A
  • Waves approach the coast at an angle.
  • In shallow water (near headlands), waves slow down.
  • In deeper water (e.g. in bays), waves move faster.
  • This causes the wave to bend (refract).
  • Wave energy is concentrated on headlands → more erosion.
  • Wave energy is spread out in bays → more deposition.
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25
wave quarrying
breaking waves hit the cliff face directly pulling away rocks from a cliff face
26
factors effecting erosion
-Waves -Beach Size and Presence - Rock type
27
longshore drift
-Waves hit the beach at an angle determined by the direction of the prevailing wind -The waves push sediment up the beach in the swash -The wave then carries sediment back down the beach in the backwash -This moves sediment along the beach over time
28
mechanical weathering
freeze thaw: -Water enters cracks in rocks and then the water freezes and expands in volume causing cracks to develop Salt Crystallisation: -As seawater evaporates, salt is left behind. Salt crystals will grow over time, forcing the cracks to widen.
29
chemical weathering
carbonation: -rainwater is slightly acidic Oxidation: -When minerals become exposed to the air they become oxidised which increases volume causing the rock to crack.
30
biological weathering
Plant Roots: - Roots of plants growing into the cracks of rocks, which exerts pressure, eventually split the rocks Birds: -Some birds such as Puffins dig burrows into cliffs weakening them
31
soil creep
The movement of soil particles downhill.
32
mass movement
movement of material down a slope under the influence of gravity
33
mudflow
An increase in the water content of soil can reduce friction, leading to earth and mud to flow over underlying bedrock.
34
landslide
- Heavy rainfall reduces friction in cliffs - a block of intact rock moves down the cliff face quickly along a flat slope.
35
slump
saturated material slides down a curved surface, often after heavy rain. The movement is rotational, causing the land to slip in a concave shape.
36
Wave-cut Notch
- Erosion is concentrated around the high-tide line creating a wave-cut notch - As the notch becomes deeper the cliff face becomes unstable and collapses
37
swash aligned beach
Waves break parallele to the coast
38
drift aligned beach
Waves approach at angle, so sediment travels along the beach, which may form a spit.
39
spit
- Longshore drift deposits sediment at a bend in the coastline. - Sediment builds out into the sea, forming a spit. - End curves with wind/wave changes. - Sheltered area forms a salt marsh.
40
barrier beach/ bar
-Occurs when a beach or spit extends across a bay to join two headlands -Traps water forming a lagoon which is separated from the sea
41
tombolo
-Bar that connects the mainland to an offshore island
42
offshore bar
-An offshore region where sand is deposited , as the waves don’t have enough energy to carry the sediment to shore. They absorb wave energy
43
sand dunes
- Sand is transported inland by wind - Obstacles cause sand to accumulate. - As sand builds up, it forms embryo dunes. - plants colonise and stabilise the sand. - Over time, dunes become fixed
44
Isostatic sea level change
- when the land rises or falls relative to the sea - localised change -EG. tectonic activity
45
Eustatic sea level change
-affects sea level across the whole planet. -may be due to thermal expansion/contraction
46
Contemporary Sea Level Change
-Since 1880 sea levels have increased by around 23cm
47
hard engineering examples
-groynes -sea wall -rock armour -revetments
48
groynes
Timber protrusions that trap sediment from LSD
49
groynes pros and cons
- build up the beach - cost effective x visually unappealing x increases erosion down shore
50
sea wall pros and cons
- highly effective - tourism benefits x expensive to construct and maintain x visually unappealing
51
rock armour
Large rocks that reduce wave energy
52
rock armour pros and cons
- cheap x don't fit natural geology x can be a safety hazard
53
revetments
Wooden or concrete ramps that help absorb wave energy
54
revetments pros and cons
-cheap x visually unappealing x need constant maintenance
55
soft engineering examples
-beach nourishment -dune stabilisation -managed retreat
56
beach nourishment
Sediment is taken from offshore sources to build up the existing beach
57
beach nourishment pros and cons
-cost effective -looks natural x needs constant maintenance x dredging may have consequences on habitats
58
dune stabilisation
Marram grass planted. The roots help bind the dunes, protecting land behind
59
dune stabilisation pros and cons
- cost effective - creates a habitat x planning is time consuming
60
managed retreat
allowing low-lying areas to flood
61
Integrated Coastal Zone Management
- environmental protection is prioritised over economic development - must involve all stakeholders - In 2013 the EU adopted a new initiative which promotes the use of ICZM’s
61
managed retreat pros and cons
- creates a habitat x farmers have to be given compensation
62
Shoreline Management Plans (SMPs)
-There is an SMP for each UK sediment cell. -Different factors are considered when choosing a management options: The economic value of assets that could be protected, and the ecological value of land

Physical Geo (14 decks)

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