Coasts Flashcards
what are the different sources of energy
-wind
-tide
-waves
-currents
wind energy
the formation of waves
-waves are created by energy passing through water causing it to move in circular motion
-however water does not actually travel in waves
-waves transmit energy not water across an entire ocean and if not obstructed by anything they have the potential to travel across an entire ocean basin
-waves are most commonly caused by wind
-wind driven waves are created by the frictional drag between wind and surface water
-as wind blows across the surface of the ocean the continual disturbance creates a wave crest as the wave approaches the shore disturbance to the circular motion beneath the surface leads to more horizontal wave movement and the wave breaks
what are the two different wave types
-constructive
-destructive
what are constructive waves
-add material to the coastline
-strong swash
-low waves with long wavelength
-formed by distant weather systems
what are destructive waves
-remove material from the coastline
-strong backwash
-tall in relation to length
-causes cliff face erosion
-common during winter storms
what are the causes of tides
-tides are predictable even though the time and size of them are based on the position of the sun and moon relative to earth
-get 2 high and 2 low tides a day
what determines the amount of gravity
-mass
-porximity
why are spring tides exceptionally high and neap tides low
-both pulling in the same plane meaning it will be a high tides
-however neap tide there is pull in one way with the sun out having different pull with the moon
what is tidal range
-tidal range is the difference in height between the low and high tide marks
spring tide
-increased gravitational pull
-increasing range
neap tide
-sun and moon are at 90 degrees to the earth gravitational pull is less effective
-high tide is less and low tide is higher
high energy coast
-no beach meaning it has never been formed due to no deposition
-destructive waves
-erosion of landforms
-rocky coastline
-contains cliffs and headlands
-erosion exceeds deposition
low energy coast
-constructive waves
-beachy sand and seaweed
-strand lines show high tide lines on the beach
-large flat beach with high material meaning low amounts of erosion
-sheltered areas such as bays
-depositional landforms such as beaches and spits
what is hydraulic action
refers to the impact on rocks and the sheer force of water itself (without debris) this can exert enormous pressure upon a rock surface thus weakening it
what is wave quarrying
a breaking wave traps air as it hits a cliff face the air is compressed into any gaps causing huge pressures. as the water retreats there is an explosive effect of the air pressure being released which weakens the cliff face and allows storms to remove large chunks of it
what is abrasion/corrosion
eroded material being thrown against the rock by the waves and also conducts erosion of wave cut platforms due to movement of material back and fourth
what is attrition
rocks which are carrying out abrasion slowly worn down into smaller rounder particles
what is solution
not overly common as sea water is generally alkaline rather than acidic, however where sea water interacts with freshwater supplies carbon bared rocks may be dissolved
traction
large particles like boulders are pushed along the sea bed by the force of the water
saltation
pebble sized particles are bounded along the sea bed by the force of water
what is suspension
small particles like silt and clay are carried along in the water
what is solution
soluble materials dissolve in the water and are carried along
what is longshore drift
movement of material along a beach usually at the angle of the prevailing winds (90 degrees)
what process are marine
longshore drift, erosion, depositon
what processes are sub marine
weathering, mass movement and run off
what are the different types of weathering
-chemical
-biological
-mechanical
what is biological weathering
-the breakdown of rocks by organic activity is biological weathering in several ways at the coast
-thin plant roots grow into small cracks in a cliff face these cracks widen as the roots grow which breaks up the rock
-water running through decaying vegetation becomes acidic which leads to increased chemical weathering
-birds and animals dug burrows into cliffs
-marine organisms are also capable of borrowing into rocks
what is chemical weathering
-involves a chemical reaction where salts may be dissolved or a clay like deposit may result which is then easily eroded
-carbonation: rain water absorbs carbon dioxide from the air into form a weak carbonic acid this results with calcium carbonate in rocks the cooler temperature of the rainwater the more carbon dioxide absorbed
-oxidation: the reaction of rocks minerals with oxygen for example iron to form a rusty red powder leaving rocks more vulnerable to weathering
-solution: the dissolving of rock minerals such as halite
what is mechanical weathering
-involved the break up of rocks with any chemical changed taking place
-frost shattering (freeze thaw) : occurs when water enters a crack or joint in the rock when it rains, then freezes in cold weather, when water freezes it expands this expansion applies pressure which causes the rock to widen and crack
-wetting and drying: frequent cycles of wetting and drying are common on the coast. rocks rich in clay expand when they get wet and contract when they dry this can cause them to crack and break up
-salt crystallisation: when salt water evaporates it leaves salt crystals behind, these can grow over time and exert stresses in the rock just as ice does causing it to break up salt can also corrode rock particularly if it contains traces of iron
types of mass movement
-soil creep
-mudflow
-run off
-landslides
-rock fall
what is soil creep
soil creep is a very slow movement occurring on very gentle slopes because of the way soil particles repeatedly expand and contract in wet soil particles increase in size and weight and expand at right angles when the soil dries out it contracts vertically
what is mudflow
a geological phenomenon thereby a wet viscous fluid mass of fine to course grained material flows rapidly and turbulently downslope usually in a drainway typically in torrential rain
what is run off
occurs when there is more water than land can absorb the excess liquid flows across the surface of the land and into nearby creaks, streams or ponds. runoff can come from both natural processes and human activity the most familiar type is snowmelt
what is landslide
a mass movement of material such as rock, earths or debris down a slope they can happen suddenly or move slowly over long periods of time when the force of gravity acting on a slope exceeds the resisting forces
what is rock fall
where a source of rock exists above a slope steep enough to allow rapid movement of dislodged rocks by falling, rolling, bouncing and sliding, rockfall sources include bedrock outcrops or boulders on steep mountainsides or near the edges of escarpments such as cliffs
what is a sediment cell
- a stretch of coastline within which sediment movement is more or less contained
-these cells are generally borderd by 2 large headlands or deep water and contain inputs, transfer and stores of sediment
-in total there are 12 sediment cells in the uk which you can divide into sub cells
-these are closed systems
sediment budgets within sediment cells
in theory within a sediment cell there should be a state of dynamic equilibrium between inputs via erosion and other methods and losses of material to deposition in sinks
sources of sediment
-river
-cliff erosion
-offshore sediment
-wind
rivers
-9% of all coastal sediment is from rivers
-coasts of steep gradient are likely to experience high amounts of sediment as rivers directly deposit sediment at the coast
-in some locations as much as 90% of coastal sediment comes from rivers
what is a concordant coastline
rocks on these coastlines run parallel to the sea and are the same rock type
what is a discordant coastline
rocks on these coastlines run perpendicular to the sea with different rock types
bedding plane
-horizontal layers of bedding
-only one recent slip not repeated
-hard sedimentary rock
dipping plane
-previous land slips that have repeatedly occurred
-dropped cliff top
-soft rock
-rates of 10 metres per year
how do wave cut platforms form
-a wave cut platform is when waves breaking at the foot of a cliff produce wave cut notches
-this undercutting is the result of erosion by waves
-as the cliff is undercut the rock above collapses and so the cliff gradually retreatsh
what is a spit
-a spit is a long narrow feature that extends from the mainland at the end of a drift aligned beach
what is the formation of a spit
-it is a depositional landform made of shingle and sand
-the process of longshore drift will move material along a coastline determined by the prevailing winds
-as the coastline changes direction the finer material will continue to be transported out to sea
-this will build upwards and outwards to develop into a permanent feature
-wave retraction and a second dominant wind direction will force the material to move in a different direction resulting in a curved end
-as low energy waves enter the area behind the spit the finer silt and mid is deposited
what is a compound spit
spits with barbs or hooks on their landward side
-these can form by a different secondary wind as well as the other wind flow reacting in these hooks
what is a tombolo
tombolos are very similar to spits and form in the same way however they are unique in the fact they join the mainland to an offshore island via deposition
how do swash aligned beaches form
-when waves break parallel with the coast the movement of water and material is largely up and down the beach, producing features similar to those already seen
-bay head beaches
-bay bars
-barrier beaches
how do drift aligned beaches form
where waves approach the coastline at an angle the swash moves material up the beach in that direction. the backwash returns at right angles the constant repetition of this causes pebbles and sand to drift along the beach
-a spit
-recurved spits
-tombolos
how do beaches form
-beaches occur in the littoral zone between low and high tide
-constructive waves with their strong swash and weak backwash allow a net increase of material
-their waves are flatter and smaller than destructive waves and material spills forwards building up the beach whilst the water often percolates into the beach
how do different gradients occur at a beach
material at the top of the beach is of a large calibre and this supports concave slopes
seasonal change at a beach
-beach profile show marked short term and seasonal change
-this sweep zone variation is often related to the type of waves involved
ridges and runnels
-at the lower edge of beaches, sand accumulation to form longshore bars parallel to the waves
-this material has probably been combed from the beach plunging (destructive waves)
-breaks in these ridges result from rip currents which form in the strong backwash
-inland of these runnels form separating pools of standing water at low tide
-as the slope of the beach a netwrok of temporary drainage channels may also appear here in finer sandy beaches
what is a sand dune
an accumulation of sand blown into mounds by the wind
sand dune formation
- sand accumulates on the beach from longshore drift
- at low tide the sand dries out allowing the prevailing winds to move the loose sand up the beach
- large inter tidal zone for sand to be dry
- sand is transported by process called saltation
- debris on beach traps sand
- grass such as lyme grass grows which stabilises the dunes
embryo dune
-sand continuously moving; needs obstruction to break the force of the wind
-high ph over 8
-high wind speed
-lots of salty spray
-no more than 1 metre high
-80% of sand exposed
fore dune
-drought restraint plants colonise
-as they grow more sand is trapped and dunes increase in height
-20% of sand exposed
yellow dunes
-greater diversity of plants
-humus layer builds up
-pH slightly alkaline
-more shelter less salty spray
-maram grass dominates other vegetation includes moss, heather sea holly
-dunes 5-10 metres high
-80% of sand vegetated
grey dunes
-stable
-100% vegetation less marram grass, more sea spurge and small shrubs
-50-100 metres from the sea
-sheltered from winds
-humus darkens allowing soil to form
-water content low plants search for water
-10m high and wider
dune slack
-found between mature dunes and where the water table reaches the surface
-plants absorb to damp and shelter
mature dunes
-found 100m from shore
-of undisturbed can support shrubs, trees
-humans may plant fast growing conifers
what is tidal range
the difference in height between the high and low tide marks
what is creep
a method of transportation used by the wind for moving the largest material
what is a sand dune
an aeolian landforms created on flat land at the back of the beach
what is deposition
occurs when wind/waves lose energy and can no longer carry material
what is positive feedback
something which occurs and accelerates an already existing process
what is bedding plane
the point where layers of sedimentary rock are joined. provides a weakness for weathering and potential sliding surfaces for mass movement
what is a sediment cell
a closed system at the coast within which sediment is almost entirely contained