Coastal Systems and Landscapes Flashcards
What is a sediment cell?
A largely self-contained stretch of coastline. They are regarded as closed systems as sediment is not usually transferred from one to the other.
What are the sources of energy at coastlines?
Sun and wind
Where do the prevailing winds come from in the UK?
The south-west as a result of air moving from the subtropical high pressure belt.
What factors affect wave energy?
- The strength of the wind
- The duration of the wind
- The fetch (distance of open water which the wind blows)
How are waves created?
As air moves across the water, frictional drag disturbs the surface and forms waves. The waves are larger near the shore as waves are driven onshore to break on the beach.
What are the two types of wave?
Constructive and destructive
What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
- Waves are generated by distant weather systems in the open ocean
- low, long-wavelength surging waves
- Strong swash, weak backwash
- Builds up sediment on the beach
- more commonly found along gentle beach profiles
What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
- Generated by local storms
- High, short-wavelength plunging waves
- Weak swash, strong backwash
- Removes sediment from the beach
- Associated with steeper coastlines
What are tides?
Changes in the water level of seas and oceans caused by the gravitational pull of the moon (and the sun to some extent).
What is the tidal range?
The relative difference in height between high and low tides.
What are the highest and lowest tides called?
Lowest- Neap tides
Highest- Spring tides
What are high and low energy coastlines associated with?
High- erosion
Low- deposition
What does wave refraction at headlands cause?
It causes energy to be concentrated at headlands and dissipated at bays. This is what causes bays to be created between headlands, due to the softer geology between headlands being eroded away reducing the wave energy via refraction around the headland.
What sources of sediment are there?
- Rivers (transported sediment)
- Cliffs (erosion)
- Long shore drift (movement of sand across beaches)
- Wind (suspended sediment)
- Glaciers (ice shelves can deposit sediment)
- Offshore (transferred by waves)
What inputs, stores and transfers of sediment are there in sediment cells?
Inputs- Rivers, cliff erosion, off shore…
transfers- Long-shore drift and ocean currents
stores- beaches, dunes, bars…
How many major sediment cells are there in the UK?
11
What is a sediment budget?
A system of inputs and outputs of sediment that seeks to achieve a state of dynamic equilibrium.
What is weathering and what are the three types?
Weathering is the break down or disintegration of rock in situ or close to the ground surface. The three types are mechanical (physical), biological and chemical weathering.
What is freeze-thaw?
When water enters a crack or joint in the rock and freezes and expands, exerting pressure on the rock. The constant freezing and thawing causes the rock to weather. (Mechanical weathering)
What is salt-crystallisation?
When salt water evaporates, leaving salt crystals behind. These can grow over time and exert stresses in the rock, causing it to weather. (Mechanical weathering)
What can occur in biological weathering?
- Plant roots can grow into cracks and widen, causing the rocks to break.
- Birds and animals as well as marine organisms can burrow into cliffs causing them to weather.
What can occur in chemical weathering?
- Rainwater can absorb CO2 from the air to form weak carbonic acid which can dissolve rocks like limestone and chalk
- Rock materials can react with oxygen
What is mass movement?
The downwards movement of material under the influence of gravity.
What is soil creep?
The extremely slow movement of soil particles down hill .
What are mudflows?
Earth and mud flowing downhill usually over weak bedrock such as clay.
What is a landslide?
A black of rock moving very rapidly downhill along a planar surface.
What is a rockfall?
A sudden collapse or breaking away of individual rock fragments at a cliff face.
What is a slump/landslip?
Material sliding rapidly downhill down a curved surface often occurring in weak clays and sand.