Coastal Processes And Waves Flashcards
What is deposition?
When water loses energy (often a reduction in velocity or the amount of water), it drops the rock particles it has been transporting
What are the four processes of transportation called?
Traction, solution, saltation and suspension
Explain the process of traction.
Pebbles and larger sediment are rolled along the sea/river bed
Explain the process of solution.
When salts and other acids in the water dissolve the rocks on the land
Explain the process of saltation.
Load is bounced along the river or sea bed e.g. small pieces of shingle or large sand grains
Explain the process of suspension.
Small particles are carried in water e.g. silts and clays, which can make the water look cloudy
Name the other way material is transported along the coast.
Long shore drift
Explain the process of LSD basically.
The zig zag movement of material along the beach determined by the dominant wind direction
What causes waves?
Wind blowing over the surface of the sea creates friction on the waters surface. Energy is transferred
What three things determine the size of waves?
How strong the wind is
How long the wing has been blowing
The length of fetch
What is fetch?
Maximum distance of open water over which the wind can blow. Longer fetch equals larger wave
What is swash?
Waves moving up the beach at an angle
What is backwash?
Waves coming straight back down the beach under the influence of gravity
Which waves have a low height and frequency, strong swash and weak back wash?
Constructive waves
Which waves have a high height and frequency, strong backwash and weak swash?
Destructive waves
