coastal landforms Flashcards
Formation of Coastal Spits -Deposition
1) Swash moves up the beach at the angle of the prevailing wind.
2) Backwash moves down the beach at 90° to the coastline, due to gravity.
3) Longshore Drift transports material along the beach.
4) Deposition causes the beach to extend, until reaching a river estuary.
5) Change in prevailing wind direction forms a hook.
6) Sheltered area behind spit encourages deposition, salt marsh forms.
Formation of Bays and Headlands
1) Waves attack the coastline.
2) Softer rock is eroded by the sea quicker forming a bay, calm area causes deposition.
3) More resistant rock is left jutting out into the
sea. This is a headland and is now more vulnerable to erosion.
formation of a coastal stack
a large crack is enlarged by the pressure on/off hydraulic action
the crack grow into a notch and then a cave as desctructive waves erode headland
cave becomes larger. wave refraction draws waves to all sides of the headland, so caves may form back to back
the sea breaks through the back if the caves, forming a natural arch. the base of the arch is widened as notches form
weathering such as freeze thaw continues to weaken the top of the arch, making it less stable
the top of the arch eventually collapse
this leaves a polar of detached rock called a stack
notches form at the base of the stack which eventually makes it unstable
the stack will eventually topple into the sea, leaving only its base. this stump is normally only visible at a low tide
Describe how a wave-cut platform is formed?
The sea attacks the base of the cliff-forming a wave-cut notch.
The notch increases in size causing the cliff to collapse.
The backwash carries the rubble towards the sea forming a wave-cut platform.
The process repeats and the cliff continues to retreat.
- formation of sand dunes
at the back of the beach, sand blown inland can build up to form dunes
embryo dunes form around obstacles
dunes develop and are stabilised by vegitation to form fore dunes and tall yellow dunes
decomposing vegetation makes sand more fertile and a wider range of plants colonise the back dunes
ponds can form in depressions
- define and describe beaches
beaches are deposits of sand and shingle
sandy beaches are mainly found in sheltered bays and are created by constructive waves
along high energy coasts sand is washed aqay leaving behind a pebble beach
describe longshore drift
- Waves approach the beach at an angle
- As waves break the swash carries material up the beach at the same angle
- The backwash carries material straight back down the beach under gravity
- This causes the material to move along the beach in a zig-zag pattern
How is a bar formed?
Longshore drift carries sediment along from a headland, depositing sediment further out from the headland. Over time, this line of sediment joins two headlands together; a bar is formed, cutting the bay off from the sea.