Chemical Peels

Question 1

Mechanism of action for Chemical Peels?

Answer 1

• Utilise chemical substance to produce desquamation of corneocytes , dissolve the bonds of corneocytes (desmosomes) and encourage superficial reconstructing
• Mechanisms of action can vary depending on the active substance or substances contained in the peel. AHA & BHA

Question 2

AHA Types?

Answer 2

Lactic
Mandelic
Glycolic
Citric
Malic
Tartaric

Question 3

BHA Types?

Answer 3

Salicylic acid

Question 4

Who is suitable?

Answer 4

• Dull texture
• Superficial hyperpigmentation
• Hyperkeratotic conditions (skin thickening)
• Acne and congested skin
• Hyper active sebaceous activity
• Shallow atrophic scarring

Question 5

Contraindications?

Answer 5

• Recent sun exposure
• Used active ingredients in the last 3 days
• Impaired skin barrier
• Roaccutane 6-12 months use
• Recent peels
• Pregnancy
• Active infections and sores
• Open wounds

Question 6

How often?

Answer 6

Superficial light peels: 2 weeks
Superficial peel (partial epidermis): 2 - 4 weeks
Superficial peel (full epidermis): 6 weeks

Question 7

How many sessions?

Answer 7

Depending on condition and the percentage we use
Superficial peels: 4-6 peels

Question 8

Percentages and duration when applied to skin?

Answer 8

10%: 10 minutes
20%: 7 (BHA) -10 minutes
30%: 5 (BHA) - 10 minutes
35%: 10 minutes
40%: 7 minutes
50%: 6 minutes

Question 9

After care?

Answer 9

• Avoid sun exposure
• Avoid active ingredients 3-4 days
• Apply sunscreen after 24-36 hours
• Apply occlusive to prevent TEWL
• Avoid makeup and excessive sweating/exercise 24-72 hours
• No waxing prior and post treatment for 2 weeks
• Can apply hyaluronic acid, aloe or azelaic acid (sooth and calm)

Question 10

Lactic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?

Answer 10

Benefits: Humectant, gentle exfoliating while retaining moisture, evens skin tone, help mild pigmentation

Mechanism:
- Larger molecule size
- Weakens the bonds of corneocytes which causes desquamation and increase cell turnover

Suitable: for dry/dehydrated and sensitive skin

Question 11

Glycolic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?

Answer 11

Benefits: Exfoliates skin, smooth fine lines and uneven texture, brighten skin, hyperpigmentation

Mechanism:
- Smallest AHA molecule size = deeper penetration & strong exfoliation
- Weakenes the bonds of corneocytes which causes desquamation and increase cell turnover

Suitable: normal - oily skin and sun damaged skin

Question 12

Mandelic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?

Answer 12

Benefits: Brightens skin, even skin tone, reduce hyper pigmentation, reduce acne (antibacterial)

Mechanism:
- Large molecule size = slower penetration + gentle
- Weakens the bonds of corneocytes which causes desquamation and increase cell turnover

Suitable: Sensitive and acne/prone skin

Question 13

Salicylic acid peel benefits, mechanism and suitability?

Answer 13

Benefits: Congestions, breaks down excessive oils, debris = reduce blackheads/whiteheads & acne, reduce oiliness, anti-inflammatory, cell renewal

Mechanism:
- Salicylic acid is lipophilic = dissolves oils and debris within the pores/acne.
- Keratolytic effect: Softens and dissolves keratin = desquamation and increase cells turnover
- Exfoliates pores: Breaks down the intercellular glue that holds the skin together to clear blockages, reducing blackheads and comedones

Suitable: Oily, acne prone, combination skin

Question 14

Difference between BHA and AHA?

Answer 14

• BHA is lipophilic (likes oil): works deeper into the skin, focusing on clogged pores, congestions, acne and pigmentation
• AHA is hydrophilic (likes water): work on the skin’s surface, focusing on improving texture, hydration, tone and pigmentation