Chapter 7: Installation and Establishment Flashcards

1
Q

root ball

A

soil containing all (e.g., containerized) or a portion (e.g., B&B) of the roots that are moved with a plant when it is planted or transplanted

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2
Q

What are survival and new growth dependent on in establishing trees?

A

water absorption capacity and stored carbohydrates (hence the importance of the condition of the roots in the root ball)

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3
Q

What to check for when inspecting the root system of bare-root stock, containerized, and container-grown trees?

A

that roots are alive, healthy, and not circling the stem (avoid plants whose primary roots encircle the trunk)

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4
Q

bare root

A

tree or other plant removed from the ground for replanting without soil around the roots

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5
Q

containerized

A

field-grown plant placed into a container for a time and then sold as a potted plant; term does not include a plant initially grown in a container

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6
Q

container-grown

A

tree or other plant that has been grown in a container

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7
Q

balled and burlapped

A

B&B, tree or other plant dug and removed from the ground for replanting, with the roots and soil wrapped in burlap or a burlap-like fabric

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8
Q

planting specifications

A

detailed plans and statements of particular procedures, requirements, and standards for planting

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9
Q

Pros and Cons of bare root trees?

A

Pros: small, easy to transport, less costly, lightweight (because no soil around the root system) so low cost in shipping/facilities handling
Cons: roots must be kept moist, must be stored cold with moist packing around the roots, usually only works for deciduous trees or conifer seedlings

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10
Q

sweating

A

preplanting procedure required for some bare-root trees; artificial and accelerated spring warming period for plants that were stored in a nursery’s cooler since the plant was dug in autumn to break dormancy

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11
Q

What species often require sweating?

A

hackberry, birch, honeylocust, sugar maple, and most oaks

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12
Q

Explain the sweating procedure?

A

the root system of a bare-root tree is surrounded by a moisture-holding material such as straw or burlap, and the entire tree is wrapped in plastic to retain a high level of humidity; the trees are placed in a warm, shaded area until the buds start to swell and the bud scales separate; must be planted before or immediately after budbreak

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13
Q

substrate

A

layer of material below the soil surface; materials used to provide plant support, regulate moisture, and (in many cases) provide mineral nutrients to container plants

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14
Q

girdling root

A

root that encircles all or part of the trunk of a tree or other roots and constricts the vascular tissue and inhibits secondary growth and the movement of water and photosynthesis; large roots that grow across or around a stem

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15
Q

Why are stem-girdling roots bad?

A

they choke off vascular tissues in the tree, leading to decline and death of limbs or the entire tree

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16
Q

How much of the absorbing roots can be lost in digging up a plant?

A

As much as 90%. (Some roots are preserved in the root ball, but the absorbing roots are lost.)

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17
Q

wire basket

A

type of metal basket used to support the root ball and maintain the integrity of the ball of a balled-and-burlapped tree or a tree dug with a tree spade

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18
Q

Describe the ideal planting hole

A

two to three times (or up to five times if dealing with compacted clay landscape soils) the width of the root ball at the soil surface, sloping down to about the width of the root ball at the base; wider planting holes are always recommended; never should be deeper than the distance from the trunk flare to the bottom of the root ball

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19
Q

How do you know how deep to plant the tree if the trunk flare is not visible on a young tree?

A

locate the primary structural roots; at least two primary roots must be located within 1 to 3 inches below the soil surface

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20
Q

What are the negative effects of planting a tree too deeply?

A

stress, drown, and suffocate the roots; enable soilborne pathogens to enter the trunk; to avoid this the trunk flare should be no deeper than the soil grade

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21
Q

perched water table

A

accumulation of water in an upper soil layer above the actual water table, resulting when drainage in an area is impeded by an impermeable layer, such as rock or heavy clay, or when the interface between soil layers has become stratified (i.e., with sharp contrast in soil pore sizes)

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22
Q

berm

A

mound of the remaining backfill soil beyond the outer edge of the root ball to collect water over the root zone

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23
Q

irrigation bag

A

zippered bag with holes on the bottom to work as a water reservoir and allow the water to dispense slowly into the root ball of transplanted trees that won’t be monitored closely

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24
Q

When is the best time to transplant most tree species?

A

in the early spring or fall in temperate climates; just after leaf drop for deciduous plants when the moisture level in the soil is relatively high and the soil is still warm, or in the spring just before budbreak

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25
Q

Why is it better to transplant dormant trees?

A

Dormant trees have reduced demands on soil moisture because transpiration is minimal; even evergreen trees are more easily transplanted while dormant

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26
Q

hardened off

A

plant tissue that is acclimated to the cold or new environment

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27
Q

root pruning

A

in transplanting, the process of pre-digging a root ball to increase the density of root development within the final root ball; severs existing roots and stimulates root regeneration
in tree conservation and preservation, the process of pre-cutting roots behind the line of a planned excavation to prevent tearing and splintering of remaining roots
in tree disease management, severing tree roots to prevent disease transmission through root grafts

28
Q

How to determine the size of the root ball?

A

based on tree caliper; measure tree caliper 6” above ground for trees less than 4” in diameter and 12” above ground for trees more than 4” in diameter; width of the root ball is 10-12 inches in diameter per inch of trunk caliper

29
Q

How deep is the root ball?

A

varies with species, soil texture, and other conditions, irrigation practices, and age and size of the tree; 30-36 inches is sufficient for most species

30
Q

What kind of tool do you use for digging up a tree?

A

a sharp spade or shovel to make a clean cut and avoid tearing or breaking the roots or a backhoe or trencher

31
Q

What shape should the root ball be?

A

it should taper on the sides, slanting inward toward the base; a root ball with a 9 foot diameter at the top might measure 5-7 feet across at the base

32
Q

drum lace

A

method of tying the root ball of a balled-and-burlapped tree for moving

33
Q

How to protect a tree during transport?

A

pad the trunk well to protect it from injury, loosely wrap the crown of the tree with burlap to minimize drying and/or wind damage; apply antitranspirants if desired

34
Q

tree spade

A

mechanical equipment to dig, transport, and replant trees with a sufficiently large volume of roots and soil; mechanical devise that encircles a tree and forces several large blades diagonally into the ground, forming a root ball; makes clean cuts through the roots; lifts the tree hydraulically from the hole and transports; also can be used to dig planting holes

35
Q

What kinds of palms are harder to transplant?

A

young palms; survival rates can be compromised when transplanted during the establishment phase when the plants are completing stem caliper growth before beginning height increase; transplanting mature specimens after the establishment phase increases the chance of success and the transplanting is mainly limited by the equipment available

36
Q

When should palms be transplanted?

A

Not critical in tropical areas as long as water availability is adequate; preferred in spring and early summer in subtropical areas when rainfall is good and soil temperatures are increasing

37
Q

fungicide drench

A

misting of high-value transplanted palms to reduce fungal disease problems during the transplant stress period

38
Q

transplant shock

A

plant stress following transplant; characterized by reduced growth, wilting, dropping foliage, or death

39
Q

What causes transplant shock?

A

when a large portion of the root system is lost the tree reduces it’s ability to absorb and transport water and minerals, which causes postplanting stress

40
Q

What effects the rate of recovery and re-establishment?

A

varies with the species, planting season, soil, site conditions, moisture availability, climate, and tree size and vigor

41
Q

What is the general rule of thumb for re-establishment in temperate climates?

A

One year for each inch of tree caliper (diameter)

42
Q

What is the key to survival of newly planted trees?

A

Proper watering; water as needed, not by a calendar or clock (water needs vary with species, plant size, climate, and soil type) critical for tree survival and new root growth

43
Q

When to water transplanted trees?

A

When the soil 1 to 2 inches deep dries out, apply sufficient water to moisten the soil to 1 foot deep (1 to 1.5 inches on a light, sand soil and 2 to 2.5 inches on a heavy, clay soil)

44
Q

What is one of the leading causes of transplant death?

A

excess water accumulation in the planting hole (which displaces soil oxygen)

45
Q

percolation test

A

dig or auger a hole 24 inches deep, fill the hole with water, let it drain out completely, and fill again; if the hole is completely drained of water within 24 hours of the second filling the percolation (drainage) rate is adequate for almost all trees; if there’s water standing then only trees that can survive in low-oxygen soils should be selected for the site

46
Q

mulches

A

materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture, reduce competition from weeds and turfgrass, and improve soil structure

47
Q

organic mulches

A

derived from plants or are byproducts of industry, agriculture, or municipal waste; shredded bark, hardwood chips, and pine needles

48
Q

inorganic mulches

A

do not decompose and do not need to be replenished as often as organic mulches; stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, and other materials; requires minimum maintenance after installation; do not improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients

49
Q

How should mulch be placed?

A

2 to 4 inches deep; not directly against the stem of the tree; in a broad area to reduce competition from other plants and retaining moisture although size depends on the tree

50
Q

What can direct contact of mulch and the stem of the tree cause?

A

bacterial or fungal infections such as crown rot or bark rot, adventitious roots, rodent feeding/concealment, and insects

51
Q

How big of an area should the mulch cover?

A

for 1 to 2 inch caliper tree, a mulch circle of at least 6 feet in diameter is recommended

52
Q

Why is too much mulch bad?

A

it restricts oxygen and water availability to the roots and may lead to stem-girdling roots or root rot; may limit nitrogen availability and affect soil pH

53
Q

staking

A

supporting a tree with stakes and ties, usually used in reference to newly planted trees

54
Q

guying

A

installing a guy and associated anchor

55
Q

Possible negative effects of staking and guying?

A

tree produces less trunk taper, develops smaller root systems, and are more subject to breaking or tipping after stakes are removed; may become injured or girdled by staking or guying materials

56
Q

Where should guys be attached?

A

Below the two-thirds height of the tree; above that will cause the tree to be inflexible and upright

57
Q

What material should guy and stake attachment material be?

A

guy: wide, smooth, nonabrasive, flexible, biodegradable
stake: broad, smooth, somewhat elastic

58
Q

tree wrap

A

material used to wrap the trunks of newly planted or transplanted trees or to protect thin-barked mature trees when they are newly exposed to the sun

59
Q

Pros and Cons of tree wrap

A

Pros: protect against temperature extremes, sunscald, boring insects, and drying
Cons: holds moisture on the bark which leads to fungal problems, problematic insects burrow between the bark and the wrap

60
Q

tree guards

A

plastic or metal guards around the trunks of newly planted trees that minimize the damage caused by animal feeding and from mowers and trimmers; should be loose fitting and have slots or holes for vetilation

61
Q

Should you prune following planting?

A

No; limit pruning to removing broken or damaged limbs only

62
Q

compensatory pruning

A

the practice of thinning 1/3 of the crown of a newly planted tree to compensate for the loss of roots; proven incorrect by research; trees actually grow more rapidly if pruning is limited to removing broken or damaged limbs

63
Q

leader

A

central stem of the tree; should be in the vertical position

64
Q

Why is it important to train trees before they are fully established?

A

trained trees require less maintenance when they are mature, and training may avoid costly structural defects that require correcting through cabling, bracing, canopy thinning, and codominant stem removal.

65
Q

What should be defined in the planting specifications?

A

definitions of key terms like “healthy” and “vigorous”; timelines should be established; deadlines for follow-up maintenance or inspections should be included; length and terms of any warranties should be defined and documented