Chapter 5: Fibre Types & Classification Flashcards

1
Q

What is Cotton?

A

Used for over 7000 years, during time no fibre came close to it.

  • cellulose fibre
  • produced by cotton plant
  • part of the hibiscus family

Known for durability, appearance, natural comfort

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2
Q

Cotton morphology

A
  • natural staple fibre 10-65mm length
  • cellulose
  • thin and tubular
  • white-beige in colour
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3
Q

Cotton burning test

A

Approach to flame: doesn’t shrink away

Inside flame: burn quick, yellow flame

After removed from flame: continue burn slow

Ashes/residue: light grey ash

Smell: similar to burning paper

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4
Q

Properties of cotton

A
  • Lustre: not naturally
    Mercerisation finish = low lustre
  • Drape: Poor
    Fabric construction can help
  • Abrasion Resistance: moderate to good
    Depends on fabric structure
  • Strength: relatively strong
    Due to intricate fibre structure and crystalline regions (70%), stronger when wet
  • Absorbency: high
    Can hold 27x own wight, comfortable in hot weather
  • Elasticity: relatively inelastic
    High % crystalline
  • Thermal: cool fibre, good conductor of heat
    Breathes, doesn’t irritate skin, smooth
  • Dimensional Stability: retains shape well
    Not elastic so if stretched wont return
  • Chemicals: broken by acids, resistant alkalis, organic solvates good
  • Sun: not easy damage, only after prolonged time
  • Colour: hydrophilic, easy dyed
  • Shrink: tend to when washed due to fabric construction
    Pre shrinkage finishes tho
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5
Q

What is wool?

A
  • One of the oldest textile fibres
  • Distinct properties
  • Science not able to create another fibre that has all that natural properties
  • uniqueness = structure of fibre
    Absorbers moisture, insulate against heat/cold, resist flame.
  • versatile end uses
  • natural bio component fibre
  • properties enhanced through fibre blends
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6
Q

Wool Morphology

A
  • comes from sheep
  • natural staple fibre
  • made of multi-cellular protein
  • Matt appearance
  • crimp, wavy
  • off white colour
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7
Q

Wool burning test

A

Approach to flame: shrink away

Inside flame: smoulders and burns slowly

After removed from flame: tends to self extinguish

Ashes/residue: crushable black ash

Smell: burning hair

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8
Q

Properties of Wool

A
- Lustre: nor typically 
Increased tho with fibre blends
- Drape: exceptional 
Modified with fibre blends
- Abrasion Resistance: moderate
Due to fibre scale construction 
- Strength: weak due high amorphous structure
- Absorbency: extremely 
absorbent due to amorphous  
- Elasticity: excellent recovery 
- Thermal: poor conductor heat, excellent insulator, self extinguishing properties
Warm fibre
- Dimensional: poor
- Chemical: resistant to acids, weekend by alkalis, damaged by chlorine
- Sun: yellows over time
- Colour: excellent , easy dye
- Shrink: poor,
Mixed water, heat, soap, will Matt, weaker wet,
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9
Q

What is Rayon?

A
  • The first artificial fibre created
  • developed Count Hilario de Chardonnet France 1889
  • made from wool pulp (cellulose)
  • originally called “artificial silk” lustre and soft handle
  • 1920s boom years
  • during which 6x more popular than silk
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10
Q

Rayon Morphology

A
  • Made from cotton linters/tree pulp

- Produced by extrusion process

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11
Q

Rayon Burning Test

A

Approaching flame: doesn’t shrink away

Inside flame: burns quick, yellow flame

Removed from flame: continues burn, afterglow

Ash or residue: light grey ash

Smell: burning paper

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12
Q

Properties of Rayon

A
  • Lustre: lustrous fibre
  • Drape: good
  • Abrasion Resistance: fair
  • Strength: low-medium
    Reduces 40-70% wet
  • Absorbency: highly
  • Elasticity: poor
  • Thermal: good conductor of heat=cool fibre, highly flammable (cellulose)
  • Dimensional: poor, often drop out of shape
  • Chemicals: damaged by acids, disintegrate by strong alkalis, attached by bleaches high concentrations
  • Sun: resistant
  • Colour: depends on dyestuff
  • Shrink: will shrink more than cotton
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13
Q

What is Polyester?

A
  • poly polymers discovered as part of Wallace H. Carothers research in 1930s for US company DuPont
  • discontinued in favour of nylon
  • first fibre produced Terylene
  • 1946 DuPont purchase rights to produce in US
  • first produced commercially 1951
  • magic fibre
  • universal blender, contribute it’s properties without detracting from that of other fibre blended with.
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14
Q

Polyester Morphology

A
  • made from chemical reaction between dicarboxylic acid and dihydric alcohol
  • melt spun, shape form by that of hole in spinneret
  • filaments
  • can be modified, delustre, bright, white, dyed
  • variety of cross section shapes
  • made from polymer chips
  • crystalline structure
  • can be used as drawn filament, texturised, cut into staples
  • available less than 1.0-10 deniers, microfibres 0.3-0.9
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15
Q

Polyester Burning Test

A

Approaching flame: fuses, shrinks away

Inside flame: burn slow, melts, black thick smoke

Removed from flame: usually self extinguishing

Ash or residue: hard black bead

Smell: sweet

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16
Q

Properties of Polyester

A
  • Lustre: varies
    Depends cross section, additives to fibre
  • Drape: good
    Depend yarn and fabric construction
  • Abrasion Resistance: excellent
  • Strength: relative strong
    Due to high oriented fibres construction, high crystalline, same as wet
  • Absorbency: poor
    Lowers comfort, cotton blend improves
  • Elasticity: relative
    Due to crystalline
  • Thermal: moderate not as warm wool, poor heat conductor, excellent insulator
  • Dimensional: excellent
    Can be permanently heat set
  • Chemicals: resists acids and alkalis, dry clean with organic solvents
  • Sun: resistant
  • Colour: hydrophobic, best dyed fibre stage
  • Shrink: low shrinkage
    Due to hydrophobic and crystalline
17
Q

What is Nylon?

A
  • First manufactured synthetic fibre create by Dr. Wallace H. Carothers while working for DuPont
  • creation announced to woman’s group 1939 NY world fair by Charles Stine (Vice President)
  • first nylon product toothbrush
  • 1940s use woman’s stockings
  • hard obtain in ww 2 nylon used make war materials eg parachutes, ropes
18
Q

Nylon Morphology

A

Fibres are:

  • Polyamides made by various substances, Hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid
  • melt spun, shape formed by hole i spinneret
  • variety cross section shapes
  • filament
  • can be high/regular tenacity, delustre, bright, dyed
  • polymer chips
  • crystalline in structure
  • can be used as drawn filament, textured, cut into staples, spun
  • available many deniers
19
Q

Nylon Burning Test

A

Approaching flame: fuses, shrinks away

Inside flame: burn slow, some melt

Removed from flame: usually self extinguish

Ash or residue: hard grey or tan bead

Smell: like celery

20
Q

Properties of Rayon

A
Lustre: variable
Drape: good in sheer, medium in stiff
Abrasion Resistance: excellent
Strength: relative 
Absorbency: low
Elasticity: relative
Thermal: moderate thermal, low heat resistance, has thermoplasticity
Dimensional: excellent
Chemicals: not resistant acids,  fairly to alkalis, organic solvents fine
Sun: fairly, unless prolonged exposure
Colour: hydrophobic, best dyed at fibre stage
Shrink: low due above and crystalline