Chapter 3: Manufacturing Methods Flashcards
Seams
- Seam
- overlocked seam
- French seam
- flat-felled seam
- stretch stitch seam
Overlock seam
Advantage: trims fabric at same time as sewing, creating seam and neatening edges all at once
French seam
Advantage: sheer fabric contains the raw edge neatly
Flat-felled seam
Advantage: strong, jeans, sportswear, decorative stitching as well
Stretch stitch seam
Advantages: will give as much stretch as fabric to prevent stitches snapping
Seam finishes
- pin-stitched seam finish
- zig zag seam finish
- overlocked seam finish
- bias-bound seam finish
- topstitch seam finish
Pin-stitched seam finish
Light to medium wight fabrics, very neat, no raw edges are visible
Zigzag seam finish
Suitable for woven fabrics. If using knit try not to stretch, otherwise wont keep shape
Overlocked seam finish
All fabric types, keeps neat
Bias-bound seam finish
Suitable for unlined garments, especially linen, woollen cause of fraying
Topstitch seam finish
Emphasis and design feature
Removing bulk from seams
- trimming seams
- grading seams
- clipping seams
- notching seams
- understitching
Trimming seams
Removes bulk in areas like armholes
Grading seams
Can be used when attaching facings to necklines/armholes, or when using heavy weight fabrics
Clipping seams
Remove bulk from v-neck so it sits flat
Notching seams
Remove bulk from curved Sean so sits flat
Understitching
Stop lining/facing from rolling to the right side
Creating shape in a garment
- darts
- tucks
- pleats
- gathering
- shirring
Hems
- slip-stitched hem
- narrow hem = circular or full skirts, shirts, linings
- topstitched hem = knit fabrics
- blind hem
- overlocked rolled hem = sheer fabrics
Pattern markings
- grainline: line arrow either end = way lay pattern on fabric
- cutting outline: bold line = where to cut
- seam line: usually broken line = seam allowance (1.5cm)
- notches: triangle = matches up with other pattern pieces, keeps all lined up
- circles, squares, triangles: additional construction markings
- darts: broken line or circles that match up in triangle = show where dart will go
- centre front/back: clearly labeled
- hem allowance: listed on pattern
