Chapter 3: Manufacturing Methods Flashcards

1
Q

Seams

A
  • Seam
  • overlocked seam
  • French seam
  • flat-felled seam
  • stretch stitch seam
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2
Q

Overlock seam

A

Advantage: trims fabric at same time as sewing, creating seam and neatening edges all at once

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3
Q

French seam

A

Advantage: sheer fabric contains the raw edge neatly

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4
Q

Flat-felled seam

A

Advantage: strong, jeans, sportswear, decorative stitching as well

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5
Q

Stretch stitch seam

A

Advantages: will give as much stretch as fabric to prevent stitches snapping

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6
Q

Seam finishes

A
  • pin-stitched seam finish
  • zig zag seam finish
  • overlocked seam finish
  • bias-bound seam finish
  • topstitch seam finish
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7
Q

Pin-stitched seam finish

A

Light to medium wight fabrics, very neat, no raw edges are visible

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8
Q

Zigzag seam finish

A

Suitable for woven fabrics. If using knit try not to stretch, otherwise wont keep shape

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9
Q

Overlocked seam finish

A

All fabric types, keeps neat

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10
Q

Bias-bound seam finish

A

Suitable for unlined garments, especially linen, woollen cause of fraying

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11
Q

Topstitch seam finish

A

Emphasis and design feature

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12
Q

Removing bulk from seams

A
  • trimming seams
  • grading seams
  • clipping seams
  • notching seams
  • understitching
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13
Q

Trimming seams

A

Removes bulk in areas like armholes

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14
Q

Grading seams

A

Can be used when attaching facings to necklines/armholes, or when using heavy weight fabrics

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15
Q

Clipping seams

A

Remove bulk from v-neck so it sits flat

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16
Q

Notching seams

A

Remove bulk from curved Sean so sits flat

17
Q

Understitching

A

Stop lining/facing from rolling to the right side

18
Q

Creating shape in a garment

A
  • darts
  • tucks
  • pleats
  • gathering
  • shirring
19
Q

Hems

A
  • slip-stitched hem
  • narrow hem = circular or full skirts, shirts, linings
  • topstitched hem = knit fabrics
  • blind hem
  • overlocked rolled hem = sheer fabrics
20
Q

Pattern markings

A
  • grainline: line arrow either end = way lay pattern on fabric
  • cutting outline: bold line = where to cut
  • seam line: usually broken line = seam allowance (1.5cm)
  • notches: triangle = matches up with other pattern pieces, keeps all lined up
  • circles, squares, triangles: additional construction markings
  • darts: broken line or circles that match up in triangle = show where dart will go
  • centre front/back: clearly labeled
  • hem allowance: listed on pattern