Chapter 20 Flashcards
Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are considered to be ____ ______
Acid balanced
Hair textures describes the ____ of a single strand of hair
Diameter
Keratin proteins are made of long chains of _____ linked together end to end like beads
Amino acids
A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair is the _____ ______ technique
Double tool
If hair breaks under very slight strain, it has little to no _____
Elasticity
The action of waving lotion is to _____ the hair
Expand
The degree to which hair absorbs the waving lotion is related to its
Porosity
The main active ingredient acid-balanced waving lotion
Glycerol monoglycolate
The main active ingredient of reducing agent in alkaline perms is
Ammonia thiogycolate
What type of hair is fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from perm services
Fine
____ rods have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter
Concave
Straight rods are equal in
Diameter
When hair has assumed the desired shape, the broken disulfide bonds must be ____ rebounded
Chemically
The chemical action of the ____ breaks the disulfide bonds and softens the hair
Waving solution
Bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent polypeptide chains are joined together are
Disulfide
A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hold dryer is known as
Endothermic
Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by
Peptide bonds
The perm that is activated by heat created chemically within the product is known as
Exothermic
When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle 90 degrees to its base section, it will result in
Half-base
When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, it will result in
On base
The ____ wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
Weave
The ____ wrap creates a movement that curves within sectioned out panels
Curvature
The basic perm wrap is also called a _____ wrap
Straight set
Base control refers to the position of the tool in relation to its ____ and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base section
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels which are further divided into subsections called ____
Base sections
What type of hair requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing
Coarse
The length of time required for the hair strands to absorb the waving lotion and for the hair to re-curl is called
Processing time
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ____ minutes
5-10
Under processing is caused by ______ processing time of the waving lotion
Insufficient
If too many ____ bones are broken in the perming process, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl
Disulfide
What can be used to determine the actual processing time needed to achieve optimum curl results when giving a perm for the first time on a client
Test curl
When one end paper is folded over the hair ends like an envelope, it is called the
Bookend wrap
When you place one end wrap on top of the hair strand and hold it flat, it is called the
Single flat wrap
End wraps are absorbent papers used to ____ of the hair when you wrapping and winding hair on the perm tools
Control ends
The process of permanently rearranging the basic structure of overly curly hair into a straight form is called
Chemical hair relaxing
Of the general types of hair relaxers which one does not require pre-shampooing
Sodium hydroxide
The chemical requires to stop the action of the chemical relaxer is
Neutralizer
The processing time of a chemical relaxer is affected by
Hair porosity
What stops the action of any chemical relaxer that may remain in the hair after rinsing
Neutralizer
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called
Lye
What are the three basic steps used in chemical hair relaxing
Processing, neutralizing, conditioning
The strength of a relaxer is determined by the strand test general guidelines suggest that for fine hair, the following strength is used
Mild
The strength of a relaxer is determined by the strand test. General guidelines suggest that for coarse hair, the following strength is used
Super
Before giving a relaxing treatment to overly curly hair, the cosmetologist must judge its texture, porosity and
Elasticity
The action of sodium hydroxide relaxer causes the hair to
Soften and swell
The process of breaking the hairs disulfide bonds during processing and converting them into ianthionizarion bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair is known as
Ianthionization
The scalp and skin are protected from possible burns when using a hair relaxer by applying a
Base cream
After the hair has been processed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer and before the shampoo, the hair should be thoroughly
Rinsed
The relaxer cream is applied near the scalp last because processing is accelerating In this area by _____
Body heat
If using a no base relaxer, it is recommended that protective cream be applied to
Hairline and around ears
The best type of shampoo to use after the chemical relaxer is
Neutralize shampoo
When applying sodium hydroxide relaxer, the processing cream is applied last to the
Scalp and ends
When using the comb method of application, how is the relaxing cream applied
Back of the comb
Inspecting the action of the relaxer by stretching the strands to see how fast the natural curl are being removed is called
Strand testing
When hair has been sufficiently straightened, the hair is rinsed rapidly and thoroughly with _____ water
Warm
The most commonly used methods of hair relaxing are the sodium hydroxide method and the ______ method
Thio
When performing a sodium hydroxide retouch, where is the product applied first
New growth only
Hair relaxing treatment should be avoided when when an examination shows the presence of
Scalp abrasion
To check relaxer processing, smooth and press a strand to the scalp using the back of the comb or your finger. If curl returns, _____
Continue processing
The combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped in large tools is called a _____
Soft curl perm
What is the safety precaution that must be followed with all chemical hair relaxing services
Wear gloves
One safety precaution for hair relaxing is to avoid _____ the scalp with the comb or fingers
Scratching
After saturating the rods with neutralizer in a soft curl permanent and processing according to directions, the next step is to
Remove rods carefully
Relaxers that are ionic compounds formed by a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen are known as
Metal hydroxide relaxer
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called
Lye relaxer
When processing is complete for a soft curl permanent, what is done after finding the hair thoroughly with warm water
Blot each curl with a towel
What is used to restore the hair and scalp to their normal acidic pH
Normalizing lotion
What are the five things to discuss
Price Previous chemical service? Did you like it? Why? Type of curl result expected? Maintenance Taking any medications?
(TAPEDG) what does this stand for
T-exture A-brasions P-orosity E-lasticity D-ensity G-rowth pattern
