Chapter 14 Flashcards
What are fancy cuts in diamond grading?
Fancy cuts refer to diamond shapes that differ from the standard round brilliant, including various cutting styles and shapes other than round
Fancy shapes can include princess, oval, pear, and more.
How is the evaluation of fancy cuts different from round brilliants?
Fancy cuts have more variations depending on shape and cutting style, while round brilliants have precise grading factors
Grading for round brilliants can be down to half a percentage point.
What does the phrase ‘The whole is greater than the sum of its parts’ mean in the context of fancy cuts?
It means the overall look of a fancy cut is often more important than specific details
This contrasts with round brilliants where precise details are critical.
What factors do graders assess for both fancy cuts and round brilliants?
Graders look at color and symmetry
These factors are important in both types of diamond grading.
True or False: There is universal agreement on what makes a fancy cut beautiful.
False
Beauty in fancy cuts is mostly a matter of personal taste.
Why are buyers less likely to follow strict guidelines for fancy-cut diamonds?
Because each stone is unique and buyers prefer to see the actual stones before purchasing
The individuality of fancy cuts contributes to their appeal and grading challenges.
What challenge do graders face when evaluating fancy-cut diamonds?
The individuality of each stone makes grading them more challenging
Unique characteristics can vary widely among fancy cuts.
What has influenced the evolution of diamond cuts over time?
Advances in cutting technologies and the unlimited imaginations of cutters
This has led to a wide variety of diamond cutting styles.
Fill in the blank: Fancy cuts do receive grades and appear on trade price lists, but buyers are less likely to buy fancy-cut diamonds without _______.
[seeing the actual stones]
What is one of the reasons fancy cuts have become important in the jewelry industry?
They have their own unique beauty standards, which attract buyers
This has contributed to trends in the jewelry market.
What is the challenge in grading fancy cuts of diamonds?
Many fancy cuts are truly unique, making grading a challenge.
What does the beauty of a fancy cut primarily depend on?
Personal taste.
What does the term ‘cut’ refer to in the context of gemstones?
It can refer to a gem’s proportions, finish, shape, and cutting style.
What is the definition of ‘shape’ in relation to a gem?
The face-up outline of a gem.
What is meant by ‘cutting style’?
The arrangement of a gem’s facets.
List the three major diamond cutting styles.
- Brilliant cut
- Step cut
- Mixed cut
What is the most commonly chosen diamond cutting style?
Brilliant cut.
Describe the features of a brilliant cut.
It features triangular and kite-shaped facets that radiate from a gem’s center toward its girdle.
What is a modified brilliant cut?
A brilliant cut with additional facets placed symmetrically.
How are the facets arranged in a step cut?
Long, narrow, four-sided facets arranged in rows parallel to the girdle.
What are the characteristics of mixed cuts?
They have either brilliant-cut crowns and step-cut pavilions or brilliant-cut pavilions and step-cut crowns.
Fill in the blank: Any of these cutting styles can be used with a variety of different _______.
[shapes].
Who created the Flower Cut series?
Gabi Tolkowsky
The Flower Cut series was commissioned by De Beers in 1986.
What was the purpose of creating the Flower Cut series?
To market unusual, off-color stones
Gabi Tolkowsky was tasked with developing new cuts.
What is the most popular diamond cutting style?
The brilliant cut
The brilliant cut features triangular and kite-shaped facets.
Describe the facets of the brilliant cut.
Triangular and kite-shaped facets
These facets radiate from the center toward the girdle.
Fill in the blank: The Flower Cut series was commissioned by _______.
De Beers
True or False: The brilliant cut has square-shaped facets.
False
The brilliant cut has triangular and kite-shaped facets.
Name cut
Hexagonal
Name cut
Pentagonal
Name cut
Pear
Name cut
Half Moon
Name cut
Rhomboid
Name cut
Shield
Name cut
Triangular
Name cut
Marquise
Name cut
Trapezoid
Name cut
Kite
Name cut
Lozenge
Name cut
octagonal
Name cut
Heart
Name cut
Oval
Name cut
Cushion
Name cut
Square
Name cut
Rectangular
What is usually the first thing you notice about a fashioned diamond?
The face-up shape of the diamond
The shape can be triangular, square, or pear-shaped, among others.
What are the common shapes of fancy-cut diamonds?
Triangular, square, pear-shaped, and round
Round is considered a traditional shape, while the others are categorized as fancy cuts.
Why is shape often a major selling point of a fancy-cut diamond?
Because it is so noticeable
The distinct outline stands out in comparison to round diamonds.
What do fancy cuts allow customers to express?
Their individuality
Fancy cuts appeal to less traditional consumers.
How can fancy cuts be described in terms of jewelry design?
As versatile design elements in multi-diamond jewelry
They can complement various styles and settings.
What is important to be familiar with regarding fancy cuts?
Their appearances and uses
Each fancy cut has its own set of variables.
Fill in the blank: A diamond shopper often comes into a jewelry store with a specific ______ in mind.
[shape]
This indicates a preference for a particular diamond shape.
True or False: Fancy cuts of diamonds have the same appearance and uses.
False
Each fancy cut is different and has its own characteristics.
What is the central area of the side of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval called?
Belly
The belly is where the width of the stone is measured.
What is the area between the belly and the point of a fancy cut called?
Wing
What is the rounded end of a pear or oval referred to as?
Head
What are the curved edges between the head and the belly of a pear or oval called?
Shoulders
What are the rounded portions of a heart shape called?
Lobes
What is the V-shaped indentation between the lobes of a heart shape called?
Cleft
What faceting variation is used to increase the durability of marquises, pears, and hearts?
French tips
What does the keel line refer to in a fancy cut stone?
The bottom where the pavilion facets meet
Fill in the blank: The keel line runs the length of the stone and sometimes includes or passes through the _______.
Culet
What is the purpose of brand names or proprietary terms in diamond cutting?
They offer important branding opportunities and describe fancy cuts.
Why doesn’t GIA use brand and trade terms in its reports?
Because these terms mean different things to different people and aren’t always descriptive of the actual shape and cut.
What standard naming system does GIA use to describe diamonds?
A description that includes the name of the diamond’s shape followed by the name of its cutting style.
List common diamond shapes recognized by GIA.
- Round
- Cushion
- Oval
- Square
- Rectangular
- Pear
- Marquise
- Triangular
- Heart
What additional terms are included for shapes with beveled or rounded corners?
Cut-cornered or round-cornered.
What does the term ‘modified’ signify in diamond descriptions?
It describes shape variations or a brilliant cut that deviates from a standard in its facet arrangement.
What is a ‘Round Modified Brilliant’?
A diamond with a cutting style that deviates symmetrically from the standard round brilliant facet arrangement.
True or False: A fancy-shape brilliant is considered a standard brilliant regardless of facet differences.
True
What is a ‘Cushion Modified Brilliant’?
A cushion shape with four large facets added to the pavilion.
When is the term ‘modified’ used before the shape name?
When the outline is altered.
When is the term ‘modified’ used after the shape name?
When only the facet arrangement is altered.
What does GIA’s naming rules help with regarding diamond grading reports?
They help explain the reports to customers and clients.
Fill in the blank: Diamonds can be cut in almost any shape, but common shapes include round, cushion, oval, ______, rectangular, pear, marquise, triangle, and heart.
square
What is an oval shape in diamonds known for?
Adding a touch of elegance to simple designs like diamond and gold rings
Oval shapes provide an alternative for those seeking something different from round diamonds.
What distinctive look does a trio of marquise cuts provide?
A distinctive look in diamond designs
Marquise cuts are one of the fancy shapes that add uniqueness.
What inspired the creation of fancy-cut diamonds?
The success of the round brilliant
Manufacturers aimed to replicate the superior light return of round brilliants.
What was the goal of diamond manufacturers when experimenting with brilliant-cut fancy shapes?
To bring the round brilliant’s superior light return to oddly shaped or low-color rough
They also sought to appeal to customer desires for unique cuts.
What is the trade term for a square or rectangular modified brilliant cut developed in the late 1970s?
Princess cut
Princess cuts surpass round brilliants in yield.
How does the yield of princess cuts compare to round brilliants?
Princess cuts surpass round brilliants in yield
Round brilliants typically only retain about 50 percent.
What settings are princess cuts popular in?
Channel settings or invisible settings
Their straight sides allow them to be set against each other without gaps.
Who patented the radiant cut and when?
Henry Grossbard in the late 1970s
The radiant cut features beveled corners and brilliant-cut facets.
What is the rough retention percentage for radiant cuts?
About 60 percent
This makes them more efficient than round brilliants.
What is the Quadrillion®?
A branded version of the princess cut with a narrower range of proportions
It offers a distinct look compared to standard princess cuts.
What are radiant-cut diamonds sometimes referred to as?
Brilliantized step cuts
This term reflects their unique cutting style.
True or False: Radiant cuts maximize color for fancy colored stones more than other cutting styles.
True
This feature distinguishes them from other cuts.
Fill in the blank: The _______ cut is a square or rectangular modified brilliant with beveled corners.
Radiant cut
Radiant cuts offer a scintillating alternative to the emerald cut.
What shapes are considered alternatives to round diamonds?
Oval, pear, marquise, princess, and radiant cuts
Each offers unique aesthetic qualities.
What is the shape of a pear-shaped brilliant?
Rounded at one end and tapered to a point at the other.
What is the facet arrangement of the pear-shaped brilliant a variation of?
The round brilliant cut.
What is another name for a long, narrow pear-shaped diamond?
Pendeloque.
How do pears compare to rounds in terms of brilliance?
Pears can be almost as brilliant as rounds.
What shape tends to look more graceful on the finger for large diamonds?
Elongated shapes such as the pear.
What is the outline of an oval cut diamond?
Elliptical girdle outline.
Why is the oval cut a good choice for customers?
It resembles the round cut but offers something slightly different.
What is a marquise cut characterized by?
An elongated, elliptical shape with curved sides and pointed ends.
What does the marquise cut resemble?
A little boat.
When did the marquise cut gain popularity?
In the 1970s.
What diamond cut became more popular than the marquise by the 21st century?
The princess cut.
What are pear shapes ideal for?
Pendants and earrings.
What do ovals appeal to consumers looking for?
Something slightly different from rounds with the same brilliant cut.
What do triangular brilliants display?
High levels of brightness and pleasing geometric shapes.
What is a practical cutting option for a macle?
Triangular brilliant cut.
What are triangular brilliant cuts also known as?
Trillions.
What are the names of some proprietary triangular cuts?
Trielle and Trilliant.
What does the heart-shaped brilliant cut symbolize?
Romance.
What is the cushion cut?
A classic brilliant cut that is generally either rectangular or square, with slightly curved sides and rounded corners.
What is the antique version of the cushion-cut brilliant?
The old mine brilliant.
Describe the half-moon cut.
Resembles a round brilliant divided in half from table to culet, creating a half-circle face-up outline.
What happens to broken rounds in terms of cutting?
They are occasionally recut into half-moons.
What is another name for the cut-cornered triangular shape in the trade?
Shield.
What does the outline of a cut-cornered triangular shape resemble?
A warrior’s shield.
What factors can vary in the cut-cornered triangular shape?
The number of sides, as well as their lengths and angles.
Are there unlimited shape possibilities in brilliant cutting?
Yes, the shape possibilities are unlimited.
Give examples of non-traditional shapes in brilliant cutting.
- Octagonal
- Kite-shaped
- Brilliant-cut star
What is the main difference in appearance between antique-cut diamonds and modern brilliants?
The main difference is a matter of intensity.
Which antique diamond cut features a rounded teardrop shape with triangular facets and no girdle?
Briolette
What characterizes the rose cut diamond?
It features a flat base and triangular facets that come to a peak.
Which antique cut diamond was the most common before the round brilliant replaced it?
Rose cut
What is a bead cut diamond?
A rounded, completely faceted diamond, drilled lengthwise for stringing.
What is the purpose of rondelle cut diamonds?
They are used as ornamental spacers between colored stones or other elements in necklaces.
What do modern designers appreciate about antique cuts?
They see them as sculptural works of art.
What was the perception of the round brilliant compared to antique cuts when it arrived?
It was considered far superior to any of its ancestors.
How does the aesthetic purpose of diamonds change the acceptance of variations in antique cuts?
It made variations in proportion or facet alignment acceptable again.
What does the toned-down brilliance of an antique cut emphasize?
It can emphasize the pattern of the facet arrangement or the shape of the diamond’s face-up outline.
How is the determination made between a cushion-cut brilliant and an old mine brilliant?
Based on their proportions.
What is the trend regarding antique cuts among diamond manufacturers?
They began producing calibrated versions of antique cuts.
What are some criticisms of calibrated antique cuts?
Some designers see them as a contradiction of the charming irregularities known in antique cuts.
What size ranges are common for briolette cut diamonds?
0.50-ct. to 1.00-ct. sizes.
What size ranges are common for rose cut diamonds?
3-mm to 6-mm sizes.
What size ranges are common for bead cut diamonds?
2-mm to 4-mm sizes.
What size ranges are common for rondelle cut diamonds?
2-mm to 6-mm sizes.
Where are most manufacturers of calibrated antique cuts located?
India
True or False: Antique cuts have taken the popular market by storm.
False
What do antique cuts in jewelry show an appreciation for?
Diamonds that can enhance, not eclipse, the beauty of an elegant setting.
Fill in the blank: The increasing presence of antique cuts in jewelry revives the _____ of diamonds as objects of beauty.
old-world charm
What are step cuts characterized by?
Long, sleek lines and a subtle gleam
When did step cuts first appear?
In the early 1400s
What was the first diamond cut?
The table cut
What do consumers admire about step cuts?
Traditional outlines and understated elegance
What is a key feature of most step cuts?
A large table facet
How do step cuts differ from brilliant cuts regarding clarity?
Step cuts require a high standard of clarity as imperfections are more visible
What is the most popular step cut?
The emerald cut
What shape do the corners of an emerald cut have?
Beveled corners
How many rows of facets can an emerald cut have?
Two, three, or four concentric rows
What is the effect of the step-cut style on a diamond’s appearance?
Emphasizes the diamond’s clarity
What is a defining characteristic of a well-made emerald cut?
It resembles a reflecting pool
What term is used when an emerald cut has a square face-up outline?
Square emerald cut
What is a baguette in terms of diamond cuts?
A small, four-sided, step-cut diamond
What shapes can the sides of baguettes take?
Parallel or tapered toward each other
How were baguettes primarily used for decades?
As accent stones, such as side diamonds for a round brilliant
What popular style in the 1980s featured baguettes?
The ballerina ring
What effect did the ballerina ring create?
Baguettes radiating outward from a center stone, resembling a ballerina’s tutu
What is a lozenge step cut?
A four-sided cut with two narrow angles that give it an elongated ‘diamond’ shape.
The lozenge shape is distinct due to its elongated appearance.
Describe a trapeze-shaped step cut.
A four-sided face-up outline with two sides that are parallel but of unequal length.
The trapeze shape is often used in jewelry for its unique visual appeal.
What is a triangular step cut?
A logical shape for a macle, or flat piece of rough.
The triangular shape is commonly associated with certain types of gemstones.
What is the Asscher cut?
A cut-cornered square or sometimes rectangular step cut, patented in the early 1900s.
The Asscher cut is known for its unique shape and historical significance in diamond cutting.
How is the Asscher cut related to the emerald cut?
The Asscher cut is the predecessor of the modern emerald cut.
Both cuts share similarities in their design and style.
What are the characteristics of the Asscher cut?
Wide corners that are nearly octagonal, a small table, high crown, and deep pavilion.
These features contribute to the Asscher cut’s unique sparkle and appearance.
What are the five clarity factors considered in grading fancy cuts?
- Size
- Number
- Location
- Relief
- Nature
These factors are the same for both round brilliants and fancy cuts.
What examination magnification is used to determine the clarity grade for fancy cuts?
10x examination
This is standard for both round brilliants and fancy cuts.
What unique clarity consideration is associated with step cuts?
Tends to reveal even minor characteristics due to its large table
The different pattern of reflections compared to round brilliants contributes to this.
Why might inclusions be difficult to see in certain brilliant fancy cuts?
Inclusions can be difficult to see in the points of hearts, marquises, and pears
Especially if these cuts have French tips.
What emotional factors might influence buyers of fancy cuts?
Attraction based on emotional reasons as well as practical and quantifiable factors
The beauty of a fancy cut lies in both the grader’s and buyer’s perceptions.
What is a crucial aspect of grading fancy-cut diamonds?
The grader must consider each stone’s separate parts in the context of its overall appearance
This reflects the art involved in grading due to many variables.
Why should the term ‘fancy’ not be shortened when discussing fancy-cut diamonds?
To avoid confusion with what the trade calls fancy-color diamonds
Maintaining clarity in terminology is important in the diamond industry.
True or False: The grading considerations for fancy cuts are identical to those for round brilliants.
False
While some considerations are identical, others depend on the shape and cutting style.
Fill in the blank: Grading fancy-cut diamonds is considered an _______ due to many variables.
[art]
The subjective nature of beauty plays a significant role.
What are fancy cuts typically cut from?
Irregular rough
Fancy cuts often have clarity characteristics due to structural irregularities.
Why do graders examine the tips of marquises, hearts, and pears?
To check for inclusions
Inclusions are more difficult to see under points.
Fill in the blank: Fancy cuts often have clarity characteristics caused by _______.
[structural irregularities]
True or False: Inclusions are easy to see under the tips of fancy cut gemstones.
False
Inclusions are more difficult to see under points.
How is color graded for fancy cuts and rounds?
Color is graded in the same way for fancy cuts and rounds using the same round brilliant masterstones for comparison and controlled lighting.
What do graders do for fancy-shape diamonds in the D-to-Z color range?
Graders use different viewing positions to account for the effect of the diamond’s shape and cutting style on its color appearance.
What is the first position used by graders to examine diamonds?
Diamonds are first examined face-down.
In the face-down position, how can a diamond’s color appear?
The color might appear more intense when viewed lengthwise and more faded or ‘washed out’ when viewed across the stone’s width.
How do graders determine the grade based on color appearance?
The grade is based on the amount of color seen in a diagonal direction, with the diamond at a 45-degree angle to the line of sight.
What advantage does viewing a diamond at a 45-degree angle provide?
It provides the best visual ‘average’ for observing the amount of color.
How do fancy shapes compare to round brilliant diamonds regarding face-up color?
Fancy shapes toward the lower end of the D-to-Z scale often appear to have more face-up color than round brilliant diamonds.
What happens to fancy shapes with a color grade of Q or lower?
They are viewed face-up to assess if they have enough color to be graded on the colored diamond color scale.
What is assigned if a fancy shape does not have enough color in the face-up position?
A D-to-Z color grade range is assigned.
What measurement do graders use to calculate table percentage for fancy shapes?
Table Size ÷ Stone Width × 100 = Table Percentage
How do graders measure table size for most fancy shapes?
They use the largest table size, measured across the stone’s width.
How do graders measure table size for square shapes?
They use the smallest table size, as measured across the length and width positions.
What is the common characteristic of large tables in fancy cuts?
Large tables—sometimes over 80 percent—are common.
What method do graders use to estimate crown angle for fancy cuts?
They look lengthwise at the stone’s profile.
How do graders assess crown angles for round brilliants?
They examine the bezel facets at the belly.
What are the descriptive terms assigned to crown angles of fancy cuts?
- acceptable
- slightly shallow
- very shallow
- slightly steep
- very steep
How is girdle thickness judged for fancy cuts?
The same way as in round brilliants.
What condition is considered when the girdle is not scalloped?
The thickness of the entire girdle.
Why are points often thicker on fancy cuts?
To help protect them from chipping.
What might create a knife-edge in the girdle area?
Thinner girdle due to extra facets or naturals at points or corners.
What term is used when the girdle thickness is extremely thin?
Extremely thin.
Fill in the blank: Graders round the table percentage result to the nearest _______.
percent
How is total depth percentage calculated for round shapes?
Total Depth Percentage = Stone Depth ÷ Stone Width × 100
Graders round the result to the nearest tenth of a percent.
What total depth percentage range is considered normal for round brilliant diamonds?
59 to 63 percent
Total depth outside this range may indicate lower cut quality.
What total depth percentage is often attractive for princess cut diamonds?
More than 70 percent
What two factors do graders consider when assessing pavilion depth?
- Face-up appearance
- Crown height to pavilion depth relationship
What initial observation do graders make about a diamond’s face-up appearance?
Whether the stone is reasonably brilliant
What appearance might indicate a shallow pavilion?
Glassy- or watery-looking diamond or visible girdle reflection
What visual cue suggests a deep pavilion?
If the stone looks dark
How should a gem’s pavilion depth relate to its crown height for proper proportion?
Pavilion should be about 2.5 to 4.5 times the depth of its crown
What final classifications do graders use to assess pavilion depth?
- Acceptable
- Slightly shallow
- Very shallow
- Slightly deep
- Very deep
What is the importance of an experienced eye in grading diamonds?
No rules can replace a good look at the stone
How is total depth percentage calculated for round shapes?
Total depth percentage is calculated using the formula: Stone Depth ÷ Stone Width × 100
Graders round the result to the nearest tenth of a percent.
What total depth percentage range indicates lower cut quality for round brilliant diamonds?
59 to 63 percent
This range may not apply to other shapes.
What total depth percentage is often attractive for princess cuts?
More than 70 percent
What factors do graders consider when assessing pavilion depth?
Face-up appearance and crown height to pavilion depth relationship
Graders consider these factors individually and then together.
What visual cues indicate a shallow pavilion?
Glassy- or watery-looking appearance and visible girdle reflection at the sides of the table
What visual cue indicates a deep pavilion?
If the stone looks dark
What is the ideal proportion of pavilion depth to crown height?
About 2.5 to 4.5 times the depth of its crown
What terms do graders use to describe pavilion depth?
Acceptable, slightly shallow, very shallow, slightly deep, very deep
True or False: No rules can substitute for an experienced grader’s assessment of a diamond’s pavilion.
True
What effect do graders consider in the evaluation of the pavilion?
The bow-tie effect in brilliants and pavilion bulge in step cuts
The bow-tie effect is particularly noted in the face-up view of certain diamond shapes.
What is the appearance of a bow-tie in marquises, pears, and ovals?
A dark shadow resembling a bow-tie running across the width of the stone in the center of the table
This is especially common in shallow or very deep stones.
How can slightly deep pavilions affect the bow-tie effect?
They can eliminate it
This indicates that pavilion depth plays a significant role in the visibility of the bow-tie.
Under what conditions do graders assess a bow-tie?
Face-up, without magnification, under normal lighting conditions
This ensures an accurate evaluation of the diamond’s appearance.
What factors contribute to the darkness of a bow-tie?
The difference between a diamond’s length and width and pavilion angle variations
Greater extremes in these factors lead to a darker bow-tie.
What is the range of colors a bow-tie can display?
Light gray to black
The color intensity affects the diamond’s overall appearance and value.
How do graders determine the size of a bow-tie?
By assessing how much of the diamond’s face-up view it occupies
Size affects the grading of the bow-tie.
What grading terms are used for bow-ties based on size and darkness?
- Obvious
- Noticeable
- Slight
These terms reflect the visual impact of the bow-tie on the diamond.
Why is pavilion bulge not a factor for brilliants?
Brilliants have mains that run straight from girdle to culet
This design minimizes the impact of pavilion bulge.
What characterizes the pavilion cuts of step cuts?
Concentric rows of pavilion facets
This design makes pavilion bulge inevitable.
What can cutters do to create a pronounced pavilion bulge?
Cut the top row of pavilion facets wide and set them at a very steep angle
This technique can save weight but increases light leakage.
What is the effect of a pronounced pavilion bulge on the stone’s appearance?
It does not increase the stone’s face-up size but adds to its carat weight and cost
This is more beneficial to the seller than the buyer.
How do graders assess pavilion bulge?
Using 10x magnification to look at the stone’s profile across both its length and width
This method allows for a detailed evaluation of the pavilion’s shape.
What should the profile of a well-cut stone show from girdle to culet?
An even, gentle arc
This indicates a desirable pavilion shape.
What does more bulge than necessary indicate in a step cut?
It affects a stone’s value.
How do graders describe pavilion bulge when it appears excessive?
As slight, noticeable, or obvious.
What do most professional graders and appraisers note about bow-ties and pavilion bulges?
They note them only on their worksheets.
Do customers receive information about bow-ties and pavilion bulges in quality reports?
No, they do not receive this information.
What should buyers examine when purchasing or matching fancy cuts?
The stones, not the reports.
How do graders judge a fancy cut’s culet size?
By looking through the table
What terms are used to describe culet size?
Range from ‘None’ to ‘Extremely Large’
What is sometimes elongated in fancy cuts?
The culet
What factor do graders consider in the culet’s size?
The culet’s width
What is the quality characteristic of shape appeal?
It refers to how graceful and pleasing a diamond’s shape is.
How do graders judge symmetry in diamonds?
They compare each diamond’s parts to its whole.
What is considered when evaluating shape appeal?
A diamond’s appearance in relation to other gems of the same shape and cutting style.
Do graders compare diamonds directly to one another when judging shape appeal?
No, they assess attractiveness based on certain proportions and characteristics.
What happens if a fancy-cut diamond differs too much from typical proportions?
It might be difficult to set in jewelry.
What is a consequence of an emerald cut with narrow corners?
It looks awkward and has less surface area for corner prongs.
Why might buyers pay for extra weight in diamonds?
Because it adds no extra beauty.
What does the trade preference typically favor for a pear shape?
A shape that is neither long and skinny nor short and stubby.
Fill in the blank: Diamonds that remain within this range of appeal are more likely to _______.
sell.
True or False: Certain variations of diamond shapes can be attractive to some buyers, even if not popular.
True.
Who might prefer a skinny or stubby pear shape?
A designer of contemporary jewelry or an artistic individual.
What does NC stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Narrow corners on shapes with beveled corners
What does WC stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Wide corners on shapes with beveled corners
What does HS represent in shape appeal considerations?
High shoulders on pears and ovals
What does FW mean in shape appeal considerations?
Flat wings on marquises, pears, and hearts
What does BW stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Bulged wings on marquises, pears, and hearts
What does UP signify in shape appeal considerations?
Undefined points on marquises, pears, and hearts
What does ML stand for in shape appeal considerations?
Misshapen lobes on hearts
What is the formula for calculating the length-to-width ratio?
Length-to-Width Ratio = (Length ÷ Width):1
If a stone has a length of 9.00 mm and a width of 6.00 mm, what is its length-to-width ratio?
1.50:1
True or False: Most fancy-cut diamond buyers believe that a length-to-width ratio alone is sufficient to convey a diamond’s beauty.
False
What length-to-width ratio is preferred for an Emerald cut?
1.50-1.75:1
What length-to-width ratio is preferred for a Heart cut?
1:1
What length-to-width ratio is typical for a Triangle cut?
1.00:1
What is the preferred length-to-width ratio for a Marquise cut?
1.75-2.25:1
What length-to-width ratio is considered too long for an Emerald cut?
2.00:1
What length-to-width ratio is considered too short for a Heart cut?
<1.00:1
Fill in the blank: The length-to-width ratio for an Oval cut is typically between _______.
1.33-1.66:1
What is the maximum acceptable length-to-width ratio for a Pear cut?
> 2.00:1
True or False: Buyers prefer to see stones before deciding to buy, regardless of the length-to-width ratio.
True
What is the typical length-to-width ratio for a Pear cut?
1.50-1.75:1
What is the length-to-width ratio range considered too short for an Oval cut?
> 1.10-1.25:1
List the typical length-to-width ratios for fancy cuts.
- Emerald 1.50-1.75:1
- Heart 1:1
- Triangle 1.00:1
- Marquise 1.75-2.25:1
- Oval 1.33-1.66:1
- Pear 1.50-1.75:1
What do some in the trade prefer regarding diamond proportions?
Certain length-to-width ratios
These ratios are often considered to determine the shape and appearance of the diamond.
What do most fancy-cut diamond buyers believe about length-to-width ratios?
A ratio alone isn’t enough to convey a diamond’s beauty or marketability
Buyers seek a more holistic view of the diamond rather than relying solely on numerical ratios.
What do fancy-cut diamond buyers prefer before deciding to buy?
To see stones for themselves
Personal inspection allows buyers to assess the diamond’s beauty and appeal directly.
What are the two main parts of the grading category for finish?
Polish and symmetry
How is fancy-cut diamond polish rated?
Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor
What does symmetry in diamonds refer to?
Balance and the relationship of a diamond’s individual parts to each other and the diamond as a whole
What property do fancy shapes have that is important for symmetry grading?
Line symmetry
How many lines of symmetry do most shapes have?
At least one, but many have two
What does a line of symmetry create in a shape?
Two equal parts
What factors do graders compare across each line of symmetry?
Outline, size, shape, and placement of the facets
How does an off-center culet affect a diamond?
It affects the diamond’s symmetry rating
What can happen if a culet is located along a shape’s line of symmetry but placed incorrectly?
It can detract from the stone’s appearance
On which shapes is symmetry evaluated along one line?
Pear- and heart-shaped diamonds
Tell the culet placement
Too high
Tell the culet placement
Proper
Tell the culet placement
Too low
What does UO stand for in symmetry evaluation?
Uneven outline
This includes variations such as sides not parallel and uneven corners.
Name five examples of uneven outlines (UO) in diamonds.
- Sides not parallel
- Uneven corners
- Uneven wings on marquises, pears, and hearts
- Uneven lobes on hearts
- Uneven shoulders on pears and ovals
What does T/oc indicate in diamond grading?
Table off-center
Refers to a misalignment of the diamond’s table.
What is assessed when checking for symmetry variations in diamonds?
- Table/culet alignment (T/C)
- Misalignment (Aln)
- Misshapen facets (Fac, MB, MM, MS)
What does Ptg stand for in the context of diamond grading?
Non-pointing
Refers to facets that do not meet at a point.
What is the significance of a diamond’s appearance under a 10x loupe?
Grading based on overall visibility of symmetry variations
Graders evaluate subtle differences in symmetry.
How can a grader check for parallel sides in a rectangular diamond?
By comparing the length of opposing sides against each other.
What angle should the corners of a well-balanced rectangular diamond meet at?
Right angles (90 degrees)
What are the five ratings for diamond symmetry?
- Excellent
- Very Good
- Good
- Fair
- Poor
What does MF stand for in diamond grading?
Missing facets
What does EF indicate in the context of diamond symmetry?
Extra facet
What is the term for a natural imperfection in a diamond?
Natural (N)
What is an uneven outline (UO)?
An outline that includes various asymmetries in shape and structure
UO can affect the overall appearance and quality of shapes in design and art.
List some characteristics of an uneven outline (UO)
- Sides not parallel
- Uneven corners
- Uneven wings on marquises
- Uneven wings on pears
- Uneven wings on hearts
- Uneven lobes on hearts
- Uneven shoulders on pears
- Uneven shoulders on ovals
Each of these characteristics contributes to the overall unevenness of the outline.
What does T/oc stand for?
variations in symmetry
Table off-center
What does C/oc refer to?
variations in symmetry
Culet off-center
What is indicated by T/C?
variations in symmetry
Table/culet alignment
What does Aln represent?
variations in symmetry
Misalignment
What are the types of misshapen facets?
variations in symmetry
- Facets (Fac)
- Main Brilliant (MB)
- Mixed (MM)
- Modified (MS)
What does Ptg denote?
variations in symmetry
Non-pointing
What are the types of non-pointing facets?
variations in symmetry
- OB
- OM
- SB
- SM
What does MF stand for?
variations in symmetry
Missing facets
What is represented by EF?
variations in symmetry
Extra facet
What does N signify?
variations in symmetry
Natural
How does grading fancy cuts differ from grading round brilliants?
Grading fancy cuts results in a descriptive quality evaluation that summarizes the diamond’s features.
What is the role of the grading report for fancy-cut diamonds?
The grading report serves as a useful guide for potential buyers and is an important record of a diamond’s identifying characteristics.
True or False: The grading report can fully convey the beauty of a fancy-cut diamond.
False
What should a buyer do before making a buying decision on a fancy-cut diamond?
Examine the diamond in question.
Fill in the blank: The grading report is essentially a summary of a diamond’s _______.
[features]
What is the classic round brilliant known for in the marketplace?
It will never lack competitors.
What influences the development of new cutting styles?
The desire for increased brilliance and better yield.
What are some classic cuts mentioned?
- Oval
- Emerald
- Princess cut
Which cut is referred to as a modern classic?
Princess cut
What is one of the most requested fancy-shape center stones for engagement rings?
Cushion cut
How does the popularity of the cushion cut compare to the princess cut?
It is approaching princess cuts in popularity.
What type of cuts appear in jewelry by many design houses?
Elegant antique cuts.
Do fancy cuts maintain their popularity against round cuts?
Yes, they maintain their popularity against the still-dominant round.
