Chapter 13: Skin care chemistry, Ingredients, & Selection Flashcards
Articles intened to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled , or applied to body for creansing, beautifying, promote actrachveness, or altenng appearance
Cosmetics
Allows products to spread, give body texture, give form such as lotion, cream, gel
Functional Ingredients
Products that don’t contain any water
Anhydrous
Oil/fatty ingredients (lubricate, moisturize, prevent water loss)
Emollients
Lubricant derived from petroleum
Mineral Oil
Cause changed in appearance of the skin
Performance ingredients
Emollients; Lube ingredients derived from plant oils and animal fats
Fatty acids
Fatty acids exposed to hydrogen
Fatty Alcohol
Produced from fatty acids and alcohols
Fatty esters
Oil chemically combined with silicon & oxygen & leaves noncomedogenic protective film on surface of skin
Silicones
Soaps/ Detergents that clean the skin
Cleansers
Compatible with oil
Oil soluble
Mixable with water
Water soluble
Oils derived from herbs; different properties and effects on skin and psyche
Essential Oils
Chemical agents that inhibit growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; kills bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
Preservatives
Inorganic color agents (metal salts) listed on ingredients labels (drug cosmetics)
Certified Colors
Organic; come from animal/ plant extract; natural mineral pigment
Noncertified Colors
Insoluble pigments made by combining dye with inorganic material
Lakes
Fats/ Fat- like subs; lipids help repair and protect barrier function of skin
Exfoliants
Spreading agents & ingredients that carry / deliver other ingredients into skin & make them more effective
Vehicles
Chemical compounds formed by combining number molecules into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto skin surface at microscopical rate
Polymers
closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target delivery to spectic tissues of skin, and control their release
Liposomes
Tissue respiratory factor; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as anti inflammatory & enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
Glycoproteins
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabalism, collegan, and improve firmness
Peptides
Natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair & helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
Retinol
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties
Salicylic Acid
Derived from olives; desensitized and nourishes; an emollient
Squalene
Anti- flammatory compound isolated from herb comfrey; used in creams, hand lotions, hand lotions, aftershave, & skin smoothing cosmetics for ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers to stimulate grouth of healthy tissue
Allantoin
Plant extract with calming and soothing properties
Chamomile
Extracted from bean seeds off desert shrub; used as lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
Jojoba
Antiallergenic, anti inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
Lavender
Moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; forms of rose extracts, oils, or water
Rose
Extracted from bark and hamamelis scrub; soothing agent or an astringent
Witch hazel
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatments
Aromatherapy
Skin freshening lotions with low alcohol content
Fresheners
Liquids to tone and tighten skins surface
Toners
Liquids to help remove excess oil on skin
Astringents
Physical methods of rubbing dead cells off skin
Mechanical exfoliation
Enzyme production that dissolves keratin proteins and exfoliate skin
Enzyme peels
treatments composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisture agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, extracts, etc. to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, hydrate, and nourish skin
Masks
Liquid ingredients for skin to penetrate and treat skin conditions
Serums
small, sealed vials containing single application of highly concentrated extracts in water or oil bases
Ampoules
