chapter 13 Flashcards
The place where ocean meets land is usually called the
shore
to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary is the
coast
New coasts in which the dominant processes are those that remove coastal material are grouped under the term
erosional coasts
coasts whereas coasts that are steady or growing because of their rate of sediment accumulation or the action of living organisms are called
depositional coasts
A current running parallel to shore in the surf zone, caused by the incomplete refraction of waves approaching the beach at an angle is called the:
longshore current
define sea stack
A prominent towering rocky island that is a remnant of the erosion of a headland.
define sea cave
A shallow cave formed on a rocky shore by wave erosion
define delta
A sedimentary deposit, subaerial or subaqueous, built by a river into a standing body of water.
define baymouth bar
An exposed sandbar attached to a headland adjacent to a bay and extending across the mouth of the bay.
define lagoon
A shallow body of seawater generally isolated from the ocean by a barrier island.
define sea cliff
A coastal escarpment that is typically eroding inland as a result of wave action
define sea island
An island whose central core was connected to the mainland when sea level was lower. Rising ocean separates these high points from land, and sedimentary processes surround them with beaches
define beach
Zone of loose particles that covers part or all of a shore.
define distributary mouth bar
A bar typically consisting of sand and finer grained material built at the mouth of a delta.
define sea arch
Feature carved in a headland by waves and strong longshore currents that started out as a cave and extended upwards.
deine blowhole
A hole in the ceiling of an arch or sea cave through which water is ejected when waves approach
define fjord
A deep, U-shaped estuary that was carved out by advancing glaciers.
define spit
A sand or coarser deposit extending from shore out into open water
define tombolo
A sand or coarser deposit connecting an island or rocky prominence to the mainland.
define wave cut platform
A nearly-horizontal bench of rock eroded by waves within the surf zone
define barrier island
A long, narrow, wave-built island lying parallel to the mainland and separated from it by a lagoon or bay.
All estuaries are ultimately formed from:
rising sea level
Groins :
trap sand normally moved by longshore transport and often cause increased erosion downstream of the groin.
what are features of a beach
The berm divides the foreshore from the backshore.
Bars and troughs are features seaward of the beach that change seasonally.
The dry region of a beach is the backshore.
The amount of time required for an estuary to undergo an exchange of water is ____________ time.
flushing
A sand ridge connecting the mainland with an island is a:
tombolo
what is generally a feature of a barrier island?
dunes, lagoons, beaches, salt marches
All estuaries are ultimately formed from:
rising sea level
If you move from the head of an estuary to the mouth of an estuary and do not notice any change in surface salinity, you are probably in which type of estuary?
salt wedge
f you took a series of salinity measurements and found that salinity was constant at all depths in a particular estuarine location, you are probably in which kind of estuary?
vertically mixed
The tidal prism is:
the volume of seawater that enters an estuary in each tidal cycle
true or false: A beach where backwash dominates swash will probably be very sandy.
false
what is an estuary
a partially enclosed body of water where seawater is diluted by
freshwater input.
what is a mangrove
large flowering
shrub or tree that grows in
dense thickets or forests along
muddy or silty tropical coasts.
what is hard stabalization
he building of physical structures to prevent the erosion of
beaches and shorelines
