Chapter 10 Finishing Flashcards
finishes:
Final processes of fabric treatment
Occurs after bleaching, dyeing and printing
the 4 Classification of Finishes
Permanent finishes, Durable finishes, Semidurable finishes, Temporary finishes
Permanent finishes
chemical change in fiber structure and do not change throughout life of a fabric
*Durable finishes
last throughout the life of the article, but become diminished after each cleaning
*Semidurable finishes
last through several launderings or dry cleanings can be renewable
*Temporary finishes
removed or substantially diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned
9 pretreatment. processes
*Pretreatment processes, *Boil-off, Scour (scouring), Desizing, *Solvent scouring, Carbonizing, *Singeing, bleaching, optical brighteners
Pretreatment processes
cleaning operations to remove soil and additives from weaving or knitting
Boil-off
cleaning cotton, cotton-blend, silk, and manufactured-fiber fabrics
Scour (scouring
cleaning woolens and worsteds
*Desizing
enzyme solutions dissolve warp starches
*Solvent scouring
dry cleaning to remove lubricating and softening oils
Carbonizing
removing leaf and grass particles from woolen and worsted fabrics
*Singeing
burning off projecting fibers or filament splinters
*Bleaching
fabrics may need bleach because natural fabrics are not white
*Optical brighteners
substance that absorbs ultraviolet light and emits blue
resin
chemicals applied as wet finishes
*Add stiffness to fabrics
purpose for resin finishes
Add stiffness to fabrics
*Retain shape
*Resist shrinkage in laundering
*Less moisture absorbent
*Reduce abrasion resistance, breaking strength, and tear strength
*Ethylene glycol helps eliminate fishlike odor
*Soil-release finishes alleviate resin’s affinity for oily soils
aesthetic finishes
change the appearance, drapability, and hand of fabrics
Calendering
process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed and under high pressure
6 forms of calendering
embossed, moire, schreiner caldering and fragrances, fulling and mercerization
*Embossed calendering
a produces three-dimensional design, gives a raised 3d effect
*Moiré Calendering
produces a wood-grain design or water mark
-Produced by passing ribbed weave fabric between rollers to flatten the ribs
- flattened ribs alter the way lights reflects
Schreiner calendering
produces a low, soft-key luster
Fragrances
can odor eliminators or gradually released fragrance
*Fulling
finish for smoother, more compact wool fabrics
*Mercerization
improves dye affinity and luster in cotton fabrics
napping
mechanical finish resulting in raised fabrics on the face or on both sides
- wire hooks used to pull fibers from a low twist yarns to produce raised fabric surface
*Sueding
finish producing suede like surface on the fabric
plisse
finish and name of the fabric produced by applying chemicals that shrink the area
eg caustic soda paste to shrink cotton fabrics
Seersucker
fabric with a lengthwise-striped puckered effect
*Shearing
produces uniform napped and pile fabrics
Softening
permanent chemical finish
Stiffening
chemical finish to stiffen fabric such as crinoline and voile
7 examples of napping & sueding
Plissé, seersucker, shearing, softening, stiffening
*Stone washing
makes garments softer and look worn and faded
Acid washing
bleaching process that actually no acid is used for
Cellulase
enzyme to weaken cellulosic fiber
15 Functional Finishes
Antimicrobial , *Antistatic, Crease-resistant (CRF), durable press, soil-release, stain release, use of fluororcarbons, ultra absorbent, flame resistant, moth proof, shrinkage control, relax and progressive shrinkage, durable press
Functional finishes –
improve the performance properties of fabrics
*Antimicrobial Finishes –
inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi
Antistatic finishes –
reduce or eliminate static
*Crease-resistant finishes (CRF) –
reduce wrinkling in apparel
*Durable press –
provide ability to resist wrinkles or retain creases or pleats
*Soil-release finishes –
chemical finishes for easy removal of oily soils
Stain Release Finishes:
Makes it easier to remove stain and soil during laundry eg used on table napkins
*Use of Fluorocarbons –
imparts a durable stain repellent and stain release property
Ultraviolet-Absorbent Finish –
finishes with UV blockers and sun-protective chemicals to absorb UVR
Flame-resistant finishes –
made from fibers that resist burning and modified manufactured fibers
*Mothproof Finishes –
permanent chemical finish added at the time of dyeing
*Shrinkage-Control Finishes –
all garment components need to be compatible shrinkage wise
*Relaxation shrinkage –
occurs to fibers under tension when fabrics after they are made
*Progressive shrinkage –
occurs each time a fabric is laundered
*Precuring –
curing the fabric at the textile finishing plant
*Post Curing –
curing the resin on a completed garment
*Water repellents –
chemical finishes that resist the penetration of water
*Nondurable repellents –
provide water resistance but are easily removed in laundering or dry cleaning
*Durable water repellents –
some are durable only to laundering, some only to dry cleaning, and others to both
*Repellent finish –
effectiveness depends on tightly constructed fabrics
3 forms of Nonaqueous Finishing
*Foam-chemical finishing, *Solvent finishing, *Textile wet processing
*Foam-chemical finishing –
concentrated finishing chemical solution and a foaming chemical
*Solvent finishing –
used instead of water to form a solution resulting in decreased energy cost and reduced water pollution
*Textile wet processing –
includes dyeing, printing, and finishing
*Methods of fabric drying
*Dry cans
*Tenter frame
*Nanotechnology
science of manipulating molecular structures
examples of *Nanotechnology
*Water and oil repellency and stain resistance
*More rapid dyeing and longer lasting color
*Ultraviolet-absorbent
*Better moisture management
