Chapter 10 Finishing Flashcards
finishes:
Final processes of fabric treatment
Occurs after bleaching, dyeing and printing
the 4 Classification of Finishes
Permanent finishes, Durable finishes, Semidurable finishes, Temporary finishes
Permanent finishes
chemical change in fiber structure and do not change throughout life of a fabric
*Durable finishes
last throughout the life of the article, but become diminished after each cleaning
*Semidurable finishes
last through several launderings or dry cleanings can be renewable
*Temporary finishes
removed or substantially diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned
9 pretreatment. processes
*Pretreatment processes, *Boil-off, Scour (scouring), Desizing, *Solvent scouring, Carbonizing, *Singeing, bleaching, optical brighteners
Pretreatment processes
cleaning operations to remove soil and additives from weaving or knitting
Boil-off
cleaning cotton, cotton-blend, silk, and manufactured-fiber fabrics
Scour (scouring
cleaning woolens and worsteds
*Desizing
enzyme solutions dissolve warp starches
*Solvent scouring
dry cleaning to remove lubricating and softening oils
Carbonizing
removing leaf and grass particles from woolen and worsted fabrics
*Singeing
burning off projecting fibers or filament splinters
*Bleaching
fabrics may need bleach because natural fabrics are not white
*Optical brighteners
substance that absorbs ultraviolet light and emits blue
resin
chemicals applied as wet finishes
*Add stiffness to fabrics
purpose for resin finishes
Add stiffness to fabrics
*Retain shape
*Resist shrinkage in laundering
*Less moisture absorbent
*Reduce abrasion resistance, breaking strength, and tear strength
*Ethylene glycol helps eliminate fishlike odor
*Soil-release finishes alleviate resin’s affinity for oily soils
aesthetic finishes
change the appearance, drapability, and hand of fabrics
Calendering
process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed and under high pressure
6 forms of calendering
embossed, moire, schreiner caldering and fragrances, fulling and mercerization
*Embossed calendering
a produces three-dimensional design, gives a raised 3d effect
*Moiré Calendering
produces a wood-grain design or water mark
-Produced by passing ribbed weave fabric between rollers to flatten the ribs
- flattened ribs alter the way lights reflects
Schreiner calendering
produces a low, soft-key luster
Fragrances
can odor eliminators or gradually released fragrance
*Fulling
finish for smoother, more compact wool fabrics