Ch. 3 – Burgundy Flashcards
Expression for individually named plots in Burgundy
Climats
River which goes through Chablis
Serein
Classic expression of Chablis
Dry, medium body
Medium alcohol
Zesty, green apple, lemon
no or minimum oak (some oak in Premier and Grand cru)
Chablis climate
Continental - cold winters, warm summers
(uncertainty about ripening and vintage variation)
Average rainfall 670mm (spread through the year)
(high threat of fungal diseases)
Vulnerable to spring frost and hail storms
Soil: limestone and clay
- fossilized seashells - Kimmeridgian soil
Soil type in Chablis
Kimmeridgian soil
- high proportion of fossilized seashells
Limestone and clay
Ways to manage frost risk in Chablis
Smudge pots
- air polution, staff required
Sprinklers ‘aspersion’
- instalation and maintenance costs
- For well founded wineries or valuable lands
- pruning late - delays bud burst
Vineyard management in Chablis
41B rootstock (vinifera x berlandieri) widely used
- tolerant to limestone with high pH
420A rootstock (riparia x berlandieri)
- low vigour, high tolerance to high pH
double Guyot replacement cane is typical
- one cane fails, other one survives frost
higher yields than Cote d’Or
- but high vintage variation due to frost and hail
Mostly machine harvested
- Grand cru usually by hand (steep vineyards)
Chablis hierarchy
Petit Chablis
Chablis
Chablis Premier Cru
Chablis Grand Cru
Petit Chablis
typically higher, cooler sites
predominantly Portlandian soils (hard limestone with less clay)
Portlandian soil
hard limestone with less clay
typical soil for Petit Chablis
Chablis
Kimmeridgian soil and mixed aspects
- usually flat or gentle slopes
- many north facing slopes
Light bodied, high acidity, light to med intensity, apple and lemon fruit
Chablis Premier Cru
40 named vineyards
Predominantly on south and south-east facing slopes with Kimmeridgian soil
Some vineyards have named plots (lieux-dits)
- can be labelled with specific site name
(Chablis 1er Cru Troesmes)
- or larger climat
(Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy)
Named plot within vineyard
lieu-dit
Difference between climat and lieu-dit
Climat
- Named vineyard fixed in AOC legislation
Lieu-dit
- Named piece of land in the centralised land register
- usually within climats
Chablis Grand Cru
One Grand Cru with 7 named vineyards
(Les Clos, Vaudésir)
- immediately next to village Chablis
- facing south-west on the right bank of Serein
- Kimmeridgian soil (+crumbly marl and high clay)
- aspect promotes ripening - greater weight and concentration
- mid slope
1% of production
How many Grand Crus does Chablis have
One
How many named Grand Cru Vineyards (climats) does Chablis have
Seven
Name Chablis Grand Cru climats
To know
- Les Clos
- Vaudésir
Rest:
- Blanchot
- Bougros
- Grenouilles
- Preuses
- Valmur
Why are Premier and Grand cru vineyards in Chablis on south facing mid slopes?
Better drainage Protection from frost Better light interception - riper fruit Sheltered from northern winds
Chablis winemaking
Chaptalization allowed (within limits) quite regularly used
Ferment in stainless with storage in stainless or concrete for few months
Malo is common (soften acidity)
Few months on lees to enhance texture
Oak is usually not desirable (some Grand and Premier Cru is fermented/aged in wood)
Wine law and regulations - Chablis
Only Chardonnay allowed
max yield
- Petit Chablis and Chablis 60 hl/ha
- Chablis Premier Cru 58 hl/ha
- Chablis Grand Cru 54 hl/ha
Wine business in Chablis
1/3 of production made by La Chablisienne
Many negociants also own their own vineyards
Several producer associations
- Le Syndicat de Defense de l’Appellation de Chablis
- L’Union des Grand Crus de Chablis
In general prices are lower than Cote d’Or
2/3 are exported - UK mainly, USA, Japan, Sweden, Canada
Producers: Francois Raveneau, Vincent Dauvissat, William Fevre, Jean-Marc Brocard
Cooperative based in Chablis
La Chablisienne
Producers in Chablis
Francois Raveneau
Vincent Dauvissat
William Fevre
Jean-Marc Brocard
Burgundy climate
Continental
- short warm summers, cold winters
- moderated by protection from Morvan Hills (west)
Rainfall around 700mm (dry autumn)
(Maconnais slightly drier and hotter)
Marked vintage variation
Hazards:
- Frost (north) - early budding Chard and Pinot
- Hail (netting is permitted, seeding clouds with silver iode to induce precipation further from vineyards)
- Untimely rain fall
- Drought (irrigation is not permitted)
- Erosion
Burgundy topography
Aspect and elevation
- important factor determining style and quality
Range of hills oriented north-south 200-400m
Best sited are mid slope
- well drained, shallow soil
- optimal sunshine
- frost protection
Top of the hills
- poor, thin soils
- exposed to wind
Botton of the slope
- deeper soils (more vigour, less ripeness)
- vulnerable to frost
Cooler sites planted with Aligote or producing Cremant de Bourgogne
Soils in Burgundy
Various types of limestone and clay
Cote de Nuits - dominated by limestone
Cote de Beaune - more clay and deeper soils
Chalonnaise and Maconnais - mixed limestone and clay
Depth of soil is varying significantly due to erosion
Chardonnay
Early budding (spring frost) Early ripening
Relatively high yields without quality loss
- canopy management to promote quality in Burgundy
Prone to grey rot, powedery mildew, millerandage and grapevine yellows
Can be grown on wide range of soils and climates
- top quality grown on limestone/clay
Cool climate (Chablis):
Apple, pear, lemon, lime, wet stone
Light to med body, high acidity
Moderate climate (Cote d'Or) Ripe citrus, melon, stone fruit, med (med+) body, med+ (high) acidity
Pinot Noir
Buds early (spring frost) Ripens early
Yields must be managed to produce quality wines
Delicate and prone to millerandage, downy and powdery mildew, botrytis, fan leaf and leafroll virus
In warm climate tends to ripen too fast
- berries can shrivel and sun burn
- Burgundy concern is full ripeness - skins, pipes
Clones from University of Burgundy in Dijon
- planting single or various clones (more resistance to disease)
- some use mass selection
Strawberry, raspberry, red cherry, oak derived flavours (smoke, clove)
Low (med) tannins, (Grand Cru med+ tannins) med alcohol, high acidity
Develop earth ,game, mushroom with time in bottle
Pruning systems in Burgundy
Various kinds of Cordon
- Cordon de Royat (limits vigour, high proportion of wood)
Traditionally Guyot (gets comeback) - Replacement cane with VSP
Poussard-Guyot
- maintains same sap route from one year to next
- pruning wounds only on the upper part of cordon
- reduces wounds (less Esca and trunk diseases)
- requires skilled labour
Planting densities in Burgundy
around 8-10,000 vines per hectare
encouraging root competition
- better quality fruit
- smaller berries - more intensity
Yield management in Burgundy
Winter pruning
de-budding
- promoting balance
- reducing yield early in season (threat of bad weather)
green harvesting
- assesing quality/quantity of grapes first
- taking unpredictable variables into accont
- can lead to compensation (excessive growth, dilution)
Maximum yields in Burgundy
Regional
- red 69 hl/ha
- white 75 hl/ha
Village
- red 40-45 hl/ha
- white 45-47 hl/ha
Grand Cru
- red 35 hl/ha
- white 40 hl/ha
Also depends on specific appellation
Organic and biodynamic challenges in Burgundy
Many vineyards are shared
- minimum area to be iplenented
- friction between growers
Disease and pest control
Grape moths - pheromone capsules
Fungal diseases - canopy management and spraying
Grapevine yellows
Esca and trunk diseases
Harvest directions
Timing is critical
Weather changes fast in autumn
Mostly picked y hand
Workforce is major consideration
Acidification and de-acidification
Permitted within EU limits but rarely practised
Chaptalization
Common practise but recent warm temperatures lower the need for it
Max +1.5 - 2%
White winemaking
Acidification, de-acidification, chaptalization allowed
Mostly hand harvested, sorted
Whole bunches pressed (help to drain) usually immediately (no skin contact)
High quality - filtered by sedimentation (levels of soilds vary)
Some use hyperoxidation (less prone to oxidation)
Ambient yeast are common
Stainless or concrete (lower quaity) mid range temperature - preserving fruit, avoiding banana (cold) Aged in same or older barrels
Higher quality - fermented and aged in barrel (16-20’)
Aged for 8*12 months in barrel with lees contacct. Proportion of new barrels
- village 20-25% new
- premier cru 30-50% new
- Grand Cru 50% and more
Malo is very common (mey be once or twice stirred)
Filtered more often than red wines
Standardly used size of barrels
228 Piece (burgundy barrel)
some use 500-600l
Red winemaking
Has to be treated carefully to not overwhelm fruit
Sorting
Whole bunch or destemmed
- add airation of must and add perfume. freshness
Low in anthocyanins - cold soak (hours or days)
Mostly ambient yeast Usually small open top vessels - pumping over (remontage) - punching down (pigeage) - avoiding reduction (Pinot Noir is prone to it) - avoiding acetic acid - promoting colour, tanin, flavour
Ferment up to 30’
Post-ferment maceration depends on fruit and style
Pneumatic or basket press (Free run separate)
Usual 228 Piece for maturation 12-20 months (premium)
- higher % of new oak in Premier and Grand Cry
Malo usually spontaneous in spring
Premium usually not filtered
Vineyard classification is based on:
Soil, aspect and microclimate, position on the slope
Labelling term for Grand Cru vineyards
Name of Grand Cru
Village does not appear on label
When is wine labelled ‘Village + Premier Cru’ without vineyard name
If grapes come from more than one premier cru vineyard
Number of appellations in Burgundy
33 Grand Crus
640 Premier Crus
44 Village appeallations
7 regional appellations
Appellations can be followed bu additional geographical denomination, such as:
Regional appellation + additional geographical denomination which can be:
- General area (Bourgonge Haut-Cotes de Beaune)
- or village (Bourgogne Chitry)
Village appellation followed by name of premier cru vineyards
- Meursault Perrieres AOC
Macon + village name
- Macon Verze AOC
Grand Cru vineyard + additional geographical demonimation referring to a climat
- Chablis Grand Cru Valmur AOC
- Corton-Les Bressandes Grand Cru AOC
Appellations in Cotes du Nuits
from north to south
Specializes in Pinot Noir
Marsannay Fixin Gevrey-Chambertin Morey-Saint-Denis Chambolle-Musigny Vougeot Vosme-Romanee Nuits-Saint-Georges
Gevrey-Chambertin
Red only (largest appellation)
GC:
Charmes Chambertin AOC
Chambertin Clos de Bèze AOC
fuller bodied
Morey-Saint-Denis
Almost exclusively red
GC:
Clos de Tart AOC
Clos de la Roche AOC
Chambolle-Musigny
Red wine only for village
GC:
Bonnes Mares AOC
Musigny AOC
fruitier, more fragrant
Vougeot
Tiny appellation. Red and white
GC:
Clos de Vougeot AOC
larger than village appellation
Vosme-Romanee
Red only
GC:
La Tâche AOC
Romanée-Conti AOC
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Almost exclusively red
No grand crus
Important premier crus:
Les Saint-Georges
Les Vaucrains
Cote de Beaune appellations
from north to south
Important for white wine (one grand cru for red wine)
Aloxe-Corton AOC Pernand- Vergelesses AOC Ladoix-Serrigny AOC Beaune AOC Pommard AOC Volnay AOC Auxey Duresses AOC St Romain AOC Meursault AOC Puligny-Montrachet AOC Chassagne-Montrachet AOC St Aubin AOC Santennay AOC
Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, Ladoix-Serrigny
around hill of Corton
Villages and premier crus produce mainly red wines
GC
Corton Charlemagne AOC (exclusively white)
Corton AOC (mostly Pinot but can produce Chardonnay)
Beaune AOC
Predominantly red but whites made too
No Grand cru
Premier crus:
Le Clos des Mouches
Les Greves
Pommard AOC
red wine only
No Grand cru
Premier Crus:
Les Rugiens
Clos des Épeneaux
more fuller bodied++
Volnay AOC
red wine only
No grand cru
Premier Crus:
Clos des Chênes
Les Caillerets
fruitier, more fragrant
Meursault AOC
white wine only
no grand cru
Premier crus:
Perrières
Genevrières
fullerbodied and powerful
Puligny-Montrachet
white wine only
Grand crus shared with Chassagne-Montrachet
Le Montrachet AOC
Bâtard-Montrachet AOC
perfumed and concentrated
Chassagne-Montrachet
Mostly white wine
Small amout of red at village and premier cru level
Grand crus shared with Puligny-Montrachet
Le Montrachet AOC
Bâtard-Montrachet AOC
St Aubin
White wine only
No grand crus
Premier cru:
Sur le Sentier du Clou
En Remilly
Cote Chalonnaise
+ appellations
Produces more red than white
Regional appellation usually labelled as ‘Bourgogne AOC’
Number of premier crus but no grand cru
Bouzeron AOC Rully AOC Mercurey AOC Givry AOC Montagny AOC
Bouzeron
must be 100% Aligote
Rully
more white than red (premier crus for both)
important for Cremant de Bourgogne
1/4 premier crus
Mercurey
more red than white
1/4 premier crus
Givry
mosty red
40% premier cru
Montagny
white only
2/3 premier cru
Maconnais appellations
mostly white wines
Macon AOC (predominantly red or rose)
Macon-Villages or Macon+named village (Macon-Lugny)
- white wine only
Named village appellaions
- Pouilly-Fuisse AOC (will become premier cru)
- Saint-Veran AOC
- Vire-Clesse AOC
Division of organisations in Burgundy
Growers
Domaines
Negociants
Micro-negociants
- small businesses, buy grapes from top vineyards, make wine and sell under their label (Benjamin Leroux)
Cooperatives (important in Chablis and Maconnais)
Wine business in Burgundy
50% sold in France
25% in EU
25% rest
Largest markets: USA, UK, Japan
En Primeur sales
Raise in prices due to:
High land prices
Increased demand
Small production and vintage variation
1/4 of Bordeaux production
Prices rose by 200% between 2003 and 2016
