Ch. 11 – Germany Flashcards
History of German wine
Back to 12th century
16th century - widely exported through river Rhine
Decline in early 16th century (thirty years war) - plains planted with grains and vineyards pushed into steep slopes.
1830 new wine laws based on must weight
early 20th century - foundation of wine institutes (Hochschule Geinsenheim University and Julius Kuìhn-Institute) - wave of modernizing
19th century established reputation for world class wines followed by Phylloxera, mildew, world wars
After war - production of inexpensive wine
Flurbereinigung - program of restructuring - consolidating small vineyards and building access roads
1971 modern German wine law - establishing geographical labeling and classification of styles based on must weight.
Flurbereinigung
Program of restructuring
Consolidating small vineyards and building access roads
Making easier mechanization and reducing costs
Without which viticulture would not be financialy viable.
Climate
49-50 degrees North (excluding Baden)
Cool continental climate
Site selection is essential - along river Rhine and tributaries (radiating heat, moderating temperature, extending growing season)
Warm but wet summers (500-800mm most fall in summer) -risk of fungal diseases, dilution of grapes, storms, hail
Long, dry autumns - long ripening periods to accumulate sugar. Morning mists along river ideal for Botrytis
Mountain ranges - Taunus and Haardt - shelter vineyards from cold winds and worst of rain.
Vineyards planted in relatively low altitudes around 200m
Effect of proximity to Rhine
Radiating heat
Moderating temperature
Extending growing season
Location of best vineyards
Steep south-facing slopes (to maximum sun exposure)
Climate of Baden
Noticeably drier, warmer and sunnier
Spring frost can be concern in cold areas
Soils
Wide variety - plays important role in ripening
Mosel and Ahr - dark coloured slate retains heat during the day and radiates back at night
Calcaire pockets in Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen (planted with Pinot Noir, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay)
Franken calcaire - Silvaner
Franken clay - Grauburgunder
Erosion is major problem (adding cost)
Vineyard management
Considerable vintage variation (grapes can fail to fully ripen)
High maximum yields
Ripeness was improved by better clonal selection, summer pruning, green harvesting and selective hand harvesting
Canopy management is essential - maximising sun exposure and improve air circulation.
Single or double replacement cane pruned with VSP and Pendelbogen (canes arched at trellis - improved flow of sap - improved yields)
Difficult or impossible mechanisation (increased labour)
Not well suited to organic viticulture (only 8% certified)
Common pruning and trellising
Single or double replacement cane pruned with VSP and Pendelbogen (canes arched at trellis - improved flow of sap - increased number of buds and improved yields)
Steps taken to improve ripeness
Better clonal selection
Summer pruning
Green harvesting
Selective hand harvesting
Proportion of white/black grapes
in 1980 - 90% of grapes were white
2017- 39% black 61% white
Does grape variety need to be mentioned on label?
No, but usually they are
German crosses
To cope with cool climate
Muller-Thurgau - ripens earlier than Riesling
Scheurebe - full bodied wines with intense grapefruit and peach aroma. High acidity (possible for ageworthy wines)
Kerner - quality wines with high acidity and fruity floral notes of Riesling
Dornfelder
German Riesling
23% of all plantings
Winterhardy, late budding, relatively frost resistant.
Late ripening (needs good sun exposure and dry autumns)
May not fully ripen in cool years
High quality wide range of wines
High acidity even when fully ripe
Significant ageing potential
Can produce high natural levels of sugar and is susceptible to Botrytis
Pronounced intensity, great aromatic complexity
Green to tropical aromas, floral (white flowers, honeysuckle.
With age - toast, honey, petrol aromas
Muller-Thurgau
Also Rivaner
Ripens earlier than Riesling
Can produce high yields in any almost conditions
used in inexpensive blands such as Liebfraumilch
Lower acidity than Riesling (medium), less structure, simple floral and fruity aromas for early drinking
Spatburgunder
German most planted black variety 11.5%
Warmer areas such as Baden
Increasingly recognised as high quality, complex wine often with barrel ageing
Whole bunch ferment sometimes used
Less new oak tendencies
Dornfelder
Most significant black German cross
Second most planted black variety
Deep colour, high acidity, fruity and floral aromas
2 styles - one fruity simple with residual sugar and complex ageworthy style with focus on tannin and structure, fermented or aged in oak.
Mostly Rheinhessen and Pfalz
Silvaner
spelled Sylvaner in Alsace
Lower in acidity and aromas than Riesling
Large amounts of simple wines with fruity aromas (green to tropical)
Where yields are controlled (Franken) can produce high quality dry, med bodied wine with med (+) acidity and disctinctive earthy characteristics.
Grauburgunder
Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Baden
some aged in oak
likes heavier soils
medium acidity, stone fruit aroma, tropical fruit and honey
Med bodied dry style to full bodied sweeter (often labeled Rulander)
Weissburgunder
Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Baden
med + acidity delicate citrus and stone fruit aroma
Chardonnay
allowed since 1990
plantings are low
Warmer areas such as Pfalz and Baden
Other grapes
Portugieser
Schwartzriesling (Pinot Meunier)
Trollinger (Schiava)
Lemberger (Blaufrankisch)
Vessels for production of wine
Traditionally produced in large old oak (Central European oak)
- 1000L Fuder (Mosel)
- 1200L Stück (oval shaped)
Stainless is becoming norm now
New oak is rarely used for Riesling, but proportion is used for Grau, Weissburg and Chardonnay
Sussreserve
unfermented or partialy-fermented grape must to sweeten the wine
Must be produced from grapes from the same region and same quality level as the wine produced
It is common for sussreserve to come from the same must as the wine where it is added
Added to dry wine before bottling
Minimal or no alcohol - lowers the final alcohol level
Thought to produce less balanced wines
Options for sweetening wine
Sussreserve
RCGM (only for Deutscher Wein)
Stopping fermentation by adding SO2, filtereng or rackling
Fermentation for Beerenauslese, Eiswein or TBA usually stops itself because of high sugar level around 5-8%
Sweetness was often used to cover unbalanced acidity or underipe grapes
Winemaking progress and adjustments
Significant advance in knowhow and technology
Lot of experimentation with Grau and Weissburg. with lees and oak, natural ferm.
Enrichment is common practice (BUT not allowed for Pradikatswein) Zone A up to 3% (Baden zone B up to 2%)
De-acidification permitted (as well as acidification)
Production of inexpensive red wines
Often termovinification to extract colour and flavour
Fermented off skins to produce low tannin wine
Production of premium Pinot Noir
Cold maceration, whole bunch fermentation, maturation in oak
Proportion of rose production
11% sold mostly domesticaly
Creation of German wine law
1971
General German wine law
Increasing must weight with few rules regarding growing and winemaking
Deutscher Wein
Landwein
Qualitatswein
Pradikatswein
Deutscher Wein
Without geographical indication
Exclusively from grapes from Germany
Alcohol must be between 8.5 and 15%
Any style
Enrichment is permitted
Only tiny proportion of German wine production
Landwein
equivalent to PGI
At least 85% of grapes has to come from the region on label
Alcohol between 8.5% - 15%
In most regions only Trocken and Halbtrocken style allowed
Enrichment is permitted
Only tiny proportion of annual production
Qualitatswein
PDO category
Grapes come exclusively from one of 13 wine regions (Anbaugebiete) - name must appear on label
All styles allowed
Minimum alcohol 7% (to allow sweeter styles)
No maximum alcohol
Enrichment is permitted
Must undergo laboratory test and blind tasting before release. Those who pass are given AP number (amtliche Prufungsnummer) which must appear on label (when and where tasted, lot number, location of vineyard)
Anbaugebiete
13 PDO regions in germany
Amtliche Prufungsnummer
Appears on label of Qualitatswein
Mandatory lab test and blind tasting before release
Indicates when and where tasted wine was tasted, lot number, location of vineyard
Pradikatswein
PDO category but with stringent rules
Grapes must come from one of the 40 Bereich (wine producing districts smaller than Asbaugebiete) which number does NOT need to appear on label
However name of Anbaugebiete must appear on label
Wines with highest must weight
Enrichment is not permitted
Any grape variety but mainly associated with Riesling
About half of the production of Qualitatswein
Strongly depends on vintage
Six levels of Pradikatswein ('distinction')
Kabinett
Spatlese
Auslese
Beerenauslese
Eiswein
Trockenbeerenauslese
Kabinett
light in body, highest in acidity
dry to medium sweet
with residual sugar can have alcohol as low as 7%
dry wines reach 12%
Green and citrus aroma
Spatlese
Usually picked 2 weeks after Kabinett
Greater concentration of ripe fruit flavour (stonefruit for Riesling)
Slightly higher alcohol and fuller body
dry to medium sweet
Minimum alcohol is 7%
Auslese
Made from specialy-selected extra-ripe bunches of grapes
Hand harvesting is not compulsory
Honey characteristics, some grapes may be affected by Botrytis
Can be dry, but usually sweeter in style with balance of sweetness and acidity which gives potential for long term ageing
Alcohol can be as low as 7%
Beerenauslese (BA)
Individually selected berries - must be harvested by hand
Always sweet
Slow fermentation reaching low alcohol levels (min. 5.5%)
Berries do not have to be affected by botrytis but it is very common
Very ripe and dried stone fruits
Only produced in years suitable for noble rot to form
Yields are very low
Rare and expensive
Eiswein
Minimum must weight same as BA
Grapes must be picked frozen at temperature -7degrees any time between November and February
(Vintage given by year where harvest started)
Grapes must be pressed while still frozen, artificial freezing is not permitted
Pressing releases small quantities of juice high in sugar and acid
Grapes must be very healthy
Some grapes are usually lost due to disease or predators
High acidity, concentrated, peach, grapefruit flavours
Trockenbeerenauslese
Grapes must be affected by botrytis (very high must weight)
Highly concentrated, extremely sweet wines, balanced by high acidity
Long and slow fermentation often below 8% abv
Extremely low yields, only in suitable years, some of the most expensive wines of Germany
Terms indicating sweetness
Trocken - no more than 4g/l (up to 9g/l where RS does not exceed total acidity by more than 2g/l)
Halbrocken - between 4 and 12g/l (up to 18g/l where RS does not exceed total acidity by more than 10g/l)
Lieblich - between 12 and 45g/l RS
Suss - more than 45g/l
Does not correspond to how dry or sweet the wine tastes
Feinherb
‘Fine dry’ used instead of halbtrocken
halbtrocken got out of fashion
Goldkapsel
designates wines which are affected by Botrytis
Einzellagen
Individual vineyard site
average of 38ha
Sometimes several owners
Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
German name for individual vineyards site
Einzellagen
average of 38ha
Sometimes several owners
Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
German name for wine producing districts
Bereich
Collective vineyard site german name
Grosslagen
Grosslagen
Collective vineyard site
usually between 600ha to 1800ha and including several Einzellagen
Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
Labelling of vineyard names
Only for Name can only be used on Qualitatswein and Pradikatswein
Village name + vineyard name
Piesporter Goldtropfchen (Pietsport village)
‘er’ belonging to…
Name of village can be skipped if it is very well known
State Rheinland-Pfalz (Ahr, Mosel, Nahe, Pfalz, Rheinhessen) can add individual plots within vineyard site to the name of Bereich
Liebfraumilch
medium white wine of Qualitatswein level ith at lease 18g/l RS.
Must contain at least 70% of Riesling, SIlvaner, Muller-Thurgau and Kerner
Grapes must come from one of four regions (Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Nahe, Rheingau
Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter (VDP)
Founded in 1910 - group of producers who wanted to promote wines without enrichment (at the time naturweine)
Around 200 members (identified by the VDP logo which must appear on the capsule) only 5% of production.
Stricter regulations for growing and winemaking including lower yields, higher minimum must weight and growing predominantly traditional grape varieties to their region
Audited every 5 years
Encouraging Sustainable viticulture
Pradikatswein is used only for wine with RD other wines must be labeld Qualitatswein
Introduced four-tier vineyard classification system
VDP vineyard classification system
VDP Gutswein - regional wines, max. yield 75hl/ha
VDP Ortswein - village wines, produced from grape varieties typical to region, max. yield 75hl/ha
VDP Erste Lage - ‘first class’ equivalent to premier cru, excellent quality wines with ageing potential, more growing and winemaking conditions apply, Only selected varieties for each region, max. yield 60hl/ha, grapes must be harvested by hand and ripe enough to qualify at least for Spatlese. Must be vinified by ‘traditional winemaking techniques’ and carry village and vineyard name on the label.
VDP Grosse Lage - equivalent to Grand Cru. max yield 50hl/ha, Permitted varieties differ dependent on Anbaugebiete (Riesling in all, Spatburgunder in all but Nahe and Mosel)
Dry white wine cannot be released until 1st September year following harvest. Red wines 12mths in oak and released after 1st September after that. Sweeter Pradikatswein may be released 1st May following harvest.
Dry wines are designated Grosses Gewachts (only GG can appear on label) Only vineyard name appears on label not the village.
max yield for gutswein and ortswein
75hl/ha
max yield for Erste Lage
60hl/ha
Conditions for VDP Erste Lage
‘first class’ equivalent to premier cru, excellent quality wines with ageing potential,
more growing and winemaking conditions apply,
Only selected varieties for each region,
max. yield 60hl/ha,
grapes must be harvested by hand and ripe enough to qualify at least for Spatlese.
Must be vinified by ‘traditional winemaking techniques’
village and vineyard name must be on the label.
Conditions for VDP Grosse Lage
Equivalent to Grand Cru
Best parcels in the best vineyards
Outstanding quality and long ageing potential
max yield 50hl/ha,
Permitted varieties differ dependent on Anbaugebiete (Riesling in all, Spatburgunder in all but Nahe and Mosel)
Dry white wine cannot be released until 1st September year following harvest.
Red wines 12mths in oak and released after 1st September after that.
Sweeter Pradikatswein may be released 1st May following harvest.
Dry wines are designated Grosses Gewachts (only GG can appear on label)
Only vineyard name appears on label not the village.
The Rheingau Charta
1984 to promote dry wines from best vineyards of Rheingau
Erste Gewachst status for the best vineyards in Rheingau and now it is legaly protected term
Only Riesling or Spatburgunder
Must be hand harvested from loy yielding vineyards
Dry wines with must to classify at least to spatlese
in 1999 joined VDP and growers who used Erste Gewachst now label wines GG
Climate in Rheinhessen
Warm and dry
Shaltered by mountains - Hunsruck and Taunus
Warm fertile valley floors (good for Liebfraumilch)
Rheinhessen grape varieties
Dominated by white wine
Riesling, Muller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, Dornfelder, Spatburgunder
Bulk production dominates
Quality producing area in Rheinhassen
Rheinterrasse
Steep sloping vineyards with east exposure - maximising sunshine
Moderating influence from Rhine - long ripening season
RIesling - ripe lemon and peach
‘Roter Hang’ Rotliegenden soil (iron rich - slate clay, sandstone) - Smoky Rieslings
‘Wonnegau’ south - Riesling and Spatburgunder (Weingut Keller and Weingut Gunderloch)
Pfalz terroir
Haardt Mountains (rain-shadow as in Vosges in Alsace) from west, Rhine from east
Driest German region - drought is concern
not centered around river
Pfalz grape varieties
dominated by white
RIesling Muller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder
Spatburgunder
Fuller body than Rheinhessen and more ripe fruit
Renowed vineyards in Pfalz
‘Mittelhaardt’ northern part, south-east facing slopes - maximum sunshine and protection from winds - ripe full bodied Riesling. Wide variety of soils.
‘Sudliche Weinstrasse’ more fertile sandstone soils - inexpensive production in past, now great Spatburgunder, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder.
Producers: Dr. Burklin-Wolf and co-operative Winzerverein Deidesheim
Baden terroir
Split into multiple bereiche
East to Rhine, opposit of Alsace benefits from rain shadow of Vosges.
Relatively south latitude - sunniest, warmest, driest region
Grape varieties in Baden
Known for reds
Spatburgunder (often oak aged, variety of styles thanks to variety of soils and microclimates)
Around Kaiserstuhl (volcano) - fullest expressions, smoky, complex
Cooler sites such as ‘Ortenau’ ‘Tuniberg’ ‘Breisgau’ more acidity and delicate fruit
60% plantings are white
high volume of inexpensive Muller-Thurgau
Developing reputation for good Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay (often in oak)
75% of co-operatives (ex. Badischer Winzerkeller)
Bernhard-Huber
Wurttemberg
Mainly light fruity reds
Dominated by local co-op (Moglingen)
warm summer temperature- ideal for red (70%)
Spatburgunder, Trollinger, Lemberger, Schwartzriesling,
Riesling
Producers: Rainer Schnaitmann
co-op: Wurttembergische Weingartner
Mosel terroir
Very notherly - site selection is very important
Steep south-facing vineyards - best sun exposure, sunshine reflected from the river. Dark coloured slate soil - radiating heat
Slate soins in variety of colours - grey, blue, brown, red
Labour intensive
Grapes in Mosel
90% white
60% Riesling
Sections in Mosel
Upper Mosel, Middle Mosel, Lower Mosel
Middle - largest and best vineyards (village:vineyard)
- Brauneberg (Juffer, Juffer-Sonnenuhr)
- Erden (Treppchen, Pralat)
- Graach (Himmelreich, Domprobst)
- Urzig (Wurzgarten)
- Wehlen (Sonnernuhr)
- Bernkastel (Doctor)
- Piesport (Goldtropfchen)
co-op: Moselland (also source of grapes for Blue Nun)
Producers: Ergon Muller, Markus Molitor
Mosel Riesling
Paler in colour, lighter in body, lower alcohol, higher acidity
Pronounced floral and green fruit aroma
Balance of acidity and flavour intensity for great potential to ageing.
Strong reputation for sweeter styles
Almost always cold enough to produce Eiswein
Franken terroir
W-shape around river Main
the most continental climate of Germany - warmer summers but shorter growing season with coller autumns and hars winters
Spring frost is particularly problem
Grapes in Franken
majority of white grapes
Drier styles traditionally produced
Muller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Riesling (relatively small proportion)
Silvaner - most celebrated and distinctive, given the best sites around Wurzburg
Spatburgunder (on steep sandstone terraces)
- Weingut Rudolf Furst
other: Horst Sauer
Silvaner
Verìy expressive in Franken
Early budding, early ripening, Susceptible to spring frost
Likes chalky soils
Dry wines with floral and wet stone aromas
Bocksbeutel
Flat, round shaped bottle with short neck typical for Franken
Nahe terroir
relatively small number of vineyards on large area
wide variety of soils and microclimates.
Protected by Honsruck Mountains - mild temperatures and low rainfall
Slopes can be as steep as in Mosel
Slate and sandstone
Nahe grape varieties
predominantly white
30% Riesling - lower levels of acidity, but riper fruit, more body than Mosel but less than Rheingau
Inexpensive Muller Thurgau on fertile gentle slopes.
Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder
Dornfelder, Spatburgunder
Weingut Donnhof and Emrich-Schonleber
Rheinhau terroir
small but highly prestigious, some of Germany’s highest quality and age worthy Rieslings
Protected from cold northerly winds by Taunus Mountains
South facing aspect - fuller bodied Rieslings than Mosel
High humidity ideal for noble rot
Soils - sand, loam, loess in east, Sandstone and slate in west
Best vineyards in Rheingau
focus on quality
Around Geisenheim, Rudesheim, Johanisberg and Erbach
Mid-slope - best sites
Moderating influence from river
Grapes in Rheingau
Dominate white grapes
78% Riesling alone
majority in dry style but also reputed for botrytised sweet wines
at the western end Spatburgunder is key grape (Steep south, south-west facing Holenberg vineyard is renowed for full bodied Pinot Noir
Schloss Johannisberg, Schloss Vollrads
Dominated by small producers
Ahr
Very notherly but dominated by black varieties (83%)
River Ahr cuts narrow sheltered valley with steep south facing slopes and soil is dominated by heat retaining back slate and greywacke (dark sandstone)
Traditionally late harvested with RS (declined)
Spatburgunder, dry, relatively high tannins, spice, barrel aged
Dominated by co-ops.
Jean Stodden
Mayschoss (world’s oldest co-op)
Wine business in Germany
Steep slopes - high cost, low yields, vintage variation
- wines command high prices but still unsustainable for some producers
Number of growers is declining
Size of estates varies
Co-operatives are very strong (30%)
Domestic market is very important (fourth largest consumer in the world, also strong importer)
Small export but growing value
USA, Netherlands, Norway, UK, China
Riesling weeks (German Wine Institute)
promotional Platform for Riesling growers under 35
Generation Riesling 2005
by German Wine Institute
German merchants
Weinkellerei
Weinkellerei
german merchants who buy grapes from growers
Rheingau vineyards such as Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach are planted.
12th century
Wine industry goes into decline because of the Thirty Years War. The vineyards on flatter plains were taken over by agriculture.
Early 16th century
New wine laws are introduced, based on the must weight of grapes, a principle which dominates German wine law to this day.
1830s
Germany becomes unified, so states can begin to trade amongst each other.
1871
Some of Germany’s wine institutes are founded e.g. Hochschule Geisenheim University in Rheingau and the Julius Kühn-Institut in Pfalz.
Late 19th early 20th century
Inexpensive, medium-sweet wines labelled as Liebfraumilch account for 60% of all German exports.
Late 20th century
Size of Stuck
1200L
Size of Fuder
1000L
Wurttemberg’s largest cooperative
Moglingen
