Ch. 15-19 – Italy Flashcards
Italy
Italy
Italian wine history
back to at least 8th century BCE
- Phoenician and Greek influence
Expansion of Rome created home market for wine
- export in amphorae to modern day France and Spain
- wines from Lazio and Campania
Genoa and Venice trading centres of Europe
- wine as part of standard diet
Written report on Italian grape varieties
- 16th century
- Andrea Bacci
19th century - modern styles established
- Chianti
- International varieties in Northern Italy
After war - focus on high volume
Modernization in 1960s
- temperature control
- Bordeaux blends in Tuscany
- raising ambitions for high quality
- commercial success of Pinot Grigio and Prosecco
First written report on Italian grape varieties
when and who
Andrea Bacci
16th century
Italy general climate
Apennines running down mosst of the country
- providing wide range of sites
Most regions are influenced by sea
Inland regions - continental climate
In general warm Mediterranean
- very suitable for viticulture
General - grape varieties
between 375 and 500 identified varieties
- some strongly associated with single region
Sangiovese Pinot Grigio Trebbiano Glera Montepulciano Cattarato Merlot Chardonnay Primitivo Barbera
General - winemaking
Influence from Germany in white winemaking
- stainless ferment, controlled temp
Red winemaking - influenced by France
- new French oak (SuperToscans)
- Traditionally large Slavonian oak - oxidation but no new oak flavours
- old oak and large vessels are now comming back
- wine from local varieties does not have new oak flavours
Wine laws and regulations
DOC
- Denominazione di Origine Controllata 1967
DOCG
- Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Grantita 1980
- stricter rules
IGT
- Indicazione Geografia Tipica
- PGI (corresponding to Vin de Pays)
- wines from defined but larger area
- wider choice of varieties and styles
- typically higher yields
Vino
- replacement for ‘vino da tavola’
Legally defined labelling terms:
Classico:
- wines made exclusively from rapes grown within historical area of DOC or DOCG
Superiore
- Wines with higher minimum alcohol level
- typically additional 0,5%
Riserva
- Submitted to certain ageing period
- at least 2 years for red and 1 year for white
- some DOC/DOCG specify ageing and part of it in oak
First attempt to define wine production area legally
who and when
1716
Grand Duke Cosimo III de’Medici
Geographical limits of Chianti, Pomino (modern Chianti Rufina), Carmignano and Val d’Arno di Sopra
Criminal penalties for fraud
Law has never been used
DOCG
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
Classico
Classico:
- wines made exclusively from rapes grown within historical area of DOC or DOCG
Superiore
Superiore
- Wines with higher minimum alcohol level
- typically additional 0,5%
Riserva
Riserva
- Submitted to certain ageing period
- at least 2 years for red and 1 year for white
- some DOC/DOCG specify ageing and part of it in oak
IGT
IGT
- Indicazione Geografia Tipica
- PGI (corresponding to Vin de Pays)
- wines from defined but larger area
- wider choice of varieties and styles
- typically higher yields
General Wine business
One of two largest wine producing countries
Average size of vineyard is small (less than 2 ha)
- many cooperatives
- Caviro, (10% of wine by volume) Cantine Riunite, Gruppo Italiano Vini, Santa Margherita, Zonin
Local wine consumption is in long-term decline
Italian largest companies
Caviro, (10% of wine by volume) Cantine Riunite Gruppo Italiano Vini Santa Margherita Zonin
Trentino-Alto Adige general
influenced by Austrian heritage
- Trentino italian speaking
- Alto-Adige (Sudtirol) majority German speaking
At foothills of Alps
- vineyards at lower slopes
Both international and local varieties
Mostry single varietal wines
Most common varieties in Trentino
75% white
Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Nosiola
- mostly unoaked, fresh
Teroldego, Merlot, Marzemino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Lagrein
Trentino - growing environment and viticulture
Moderate continental climate with cooling influences
- mountains provide protection from north cold winds
- moderating influence of Lake Garda
- heat builds up at valley floor
- cool air descending from mountains
- wide diurnal range - higher acidity, longer growing season
Historically pergola trained vines for high yields
- now trellised vineyards
Grapes allowed in Trentino DOC
and max yields
white 100 hl/ha
red 90 hl/ha
10 white grapes and 9 black varieties allowed as single varietal
Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer
Merlot, Marzemino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir
Teroldego
Vigorous
Mid to late ripening
Historically pergola trained for high yields
- now Guyot
Suffers from drying out of stems
Less susceptible to mildew
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, black cherry
Best quality from Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
(sandy and gravelly soils)
Cannot be labelled as Trentino DOC
- but as Vini delle Dolomiti IGT
Marzemino
Vigorous
Mid to late ripening
Prone to botrytis bunch rot and powdery mildew
Older vines usually on pergolas, younger vines trained as spurred cordons
Deeply coloured, medium tannin, red cherry
Best wines from Ziresi subzone of Trentino DOC
- full sun exposure, rich calcareous/clay soils and basalt
Lagrein
Vigorous
Mid to late ripening
Needs warm site with plenty of sun to fully ripen
Subject to poor fruit set
Bitterness and harshness on finish is addressed by shorter maceration and oak ageing
Used in rose (deep colour)
Can be labelled italian/german
- Lagrein rubino/dunkel or Lagrein rosato/kretzer
Deeply coloured, medium tannin , ripe berry fruit
Best DOC for Teroldego
Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
Possible labeling for Teroldego
Teroldego Rotaliano DOC
Vini delle Dolomiti IGT
! Cannot be labelled as Trentino DOC
Best sub-zone for Marzemino
Ziresi subzone of Trentino DOC
- full sun exposure, rich calcareous/clay soils and basalt
Lagrein Italian and German labelling for red and rose
Lagrein rubino/dunkel
Lagrein rosato/kretzer
Moscato Rosa
Rose-scented sweet wines
- appassimanto method or late harvested
- premium priced
Poor fruit set and susceptibility to botrytis
- difficult to grow successfully
Nosiola
Small volume of distinctive white wine with light hazelnut flavour
Also made in semi-dried version - Vino Santo (NOT Vin Santo)
vulnerable to frost, powdery mildew and sour rot
Winemaking in Trentino
Whites
- soft pressing
- ferment in steel
- low temperatures 12-16
- briefly aged on lees
- released early
- top whites may see some oak
Red wines
- fresh and fruity
- maceration on skins during ferment 5-7 days
- moderate temp 17-20
- briefly aged in steel or old oak
Premium reds
- period of maceration after ferment (additional 7-14 days)
- warm ferment 26-32
- aged in small oak (small proportion of new)
Trentino Wine Law
Trentino DOC styles:
Blanco: min 80% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Grigio
Rosso: single variety or blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot
Single varietal wines: min- 85% of named variety
Two variety blends: shorter list of varieties
Rose: also called Rosato or Kretzer
Certain sub-zones can appear on labels together with Trentino DOC
Expression for Rose in Trentino
Rosato or Kretzer
Single varietal wine in Trentino DOC has to be:
min. 85% of named variety
Trentino DOC Bianco must be:
min 80% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Grigio
Trentino DOC Rosso must be:
Blend or single-varietal
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot
Trentino Wine business
many small growers (average 1.2 ha)
- significant cooperatives (and some merchants) 80%
- Cavit 60%
Good penetration in restaurant sector in Italy
Alternative labelling term for Trentino DOC
Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Alto Adige viticulture
Training and management
Traditional pergola (usually high volume) now - Guyot
Leaf pickeng - better exposure of grapes to sunshine
Alto Adige climate
mild Alpine continental climate
- protected from cold winds by mountains to the north
- 300-700m
- warm air currents in valleys
- 300 days of sunshine
- wide diurnal range
- sufficient rainfall (concern at harvest)
Soils in Alto Adige
Great variety
- volcanic porphyry
- quartz
- mica rock
- Dolomitic limestone
Few zones (not accepted as sub-zones) in Alto-Adige
Bassa Atesina
- south
- warmer
- all varieties except Schiava
Oltradige
- Lake Caldaro area for Schiava
- Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon (valleys)
- Pinot Noir and white varieties (higher altitudes)
Alto-Adige grape varieties
Schiava Pinot Grigio Gewurztraminer Chardonnay Pinot Bianco Lagrein Pinot Noir Sauvignon Blanc
Schiava
also known as Vernatsch
Typically grown on pergola (to cope with natural vigour)
Pale ruby
Perfumed violet and strawberry
Med to light body and low tannins
Santa Magdalena DOC
- Schiava can be blended with up to 15% of Lagrein
- deeper colour and fuller body
Winemaking in Alto-Adige
Mostly preserving fruity aroma
- fermented at low temp 12-15 with selected yeast
- aged in steel
- may be kept on fine lees for 4-6 months
(premium for up to a year)
Some top whites and reds are aged in French barriques
Wine law in Alto-Adige
98% is DOC
11 white varieties, 7 black varieties allowed in Alto-Adige DOC
Allowed yields are lower than Trentino
- max for white around 90 hl/ha
Within Alto-Adige DOC wines can be:
Bianco
- min 75% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio
- 2 varieties must be present, but cannot exceed 70% of blend
- no corresponding Rosso category (as in Trentino)
Single varietal wines
- 85% of named variety
Dual variety blends
- both varieties must be more than 15% of the blend
Also possible to label with one of six sub-zones
DOC for Schiava
Lago di Caldaro DOC
Alto-Adige DOC Bianco must be:
- min 75% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio
- 2 varieties must be present, but cannot exceed 70% of blend
- no corresponding Rosso category (as in Trentino)
Alto-Adige DOC single varietal wine must be:
min 85% of named variety
Alto-Adige DOC dual variety blends requirements:
Both varieties must be more than 15% of the blend
Wine business in Alto-Adige
Typically very small vineyards (average 1 ha)
Cooperatives are very important (70%)
- also produce high quality wines
- Cantina Kaltern
- Cantina di Tramin
Producers: Alois Lageder, Elena Walch
Wines are sold principally in Italy
- under half in region itself
- important in hospitality sector
Export market: Germany, USA
Promotional body: Consortium Alto-Adige Wines
- Sudtirol logo on the capsule
Producers and cooperatives in Alto-Adige
Producers:
- Alois Lageder
- Elena Walch
Cooperatives:
- Cantina Kaltern
- Cantina di Tramin
Promotional body of Alto-Adige
Consortium Alto-Adige Wines
- Sudtirol logo on the capsule
Veneto climate
Warm and moderately continental climate
- moderate rainfall
- cooling infuence - altitude, breezes from Lake Garda
- Flat plains affected by fog and humidity from River Adige and Po
- problem with fungal diseases and Esca
Fertile soils - high yields (flat plains) - Veneto IGP
Hillside - better drainage and poorer
Veneto - Soave terroir
foothills of Alps and flat plains near river Adige
- limestone, clay, volcanic rock (basalt)
- naturally cool soils - slow down ripening
Garganega
Vigorous
Late ripening (October)
Traditionally pergola trained (now can be trellised)
Sensitive to winter cold, mildew and botrytis
Capable of producing Very high yield of high quality of grapes on good sites
Usually handpicked on hillside and machine harvested on plains
high acidity, med body, med intensity (lemon, apple/pear, white pepper, in warm vintage- stone fruits)
Usually no oak (some high-end is oaked)
Ages well - honey, almond
Soave winemaking
High quality
- short cold maceration
- cool ferment 16-18
- few months on lees
- few ferment/age in oak
Also vinified by the appassimento
Appellations for Soave
Soave DOC
Soave Classico DOC
Soave Superiore DOCG
Recioto di Soave DOCG
Soave DOC requirements
grapes from entire Soave region
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 105 hl/ha
Can be sold after 1 December of the year of harvest
(80% of all Soave)
Soave Classico DOC requirements
grapes from hilly Classico region
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 98 hl/ha
Can be sold after 1 February of the year after harvest
(20% of all Soave)
Soave Superiore DOCG requirements
grapes from same zone as Recioto di Soave
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 70 hl/ha
Can be sold after 1 September of the year after harvest
Tiny production
Recioto di Soave DOCG requirements
grapes from delimited hilly zone
Min 70% Garganega, up to 30% of Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay (up to 5% of these 30% can be other authorized variety)
Max yield 36 hl/ha (semi-dried)
Rich floral, honeyed, sweet wines with high balancing acidity
Soave wine business
Region of small growers (average 2 ha) and large bottlers.
Largest cooperative - Cantina di Soave
Loosing market share to Pinot Grigio
- 80% exported (Germany, UK)
Producers: Pieropan, Inama
Soave Consorzio - classification of single vineyards ‘cru’ system based on soil, aspect, elevation
Valpolicella terroir
Foothills in north
- Limestone and clay or volcanic soils
- cool soils
- slow down ripening, more acidity
South
- gravel and sand
- warmer
- fruitier, less acidity, less concentration
Grape varieties in Valpolicella
Corvina Veronese
Corvinone
Rondinella
Molinara
Corvina Veronese
Vigorous, high yields
Mid to late ripening
Thick skins (suitable for drying)
Prone to downy mildew, botrytis, esca
Sensitive to drought and sunburn
Well suited to pergola traning
- does not carry fruit on first few buds
- shade prevents sunburn
- air circulations lowers disease pressure
- it can also grow on trellises
Mostly blended
Violet, red cherry, red plum, herbal note
Low to med tannins and high acidity
Allegrini single varietal Corvina ‘La Poja’
Corvinone
Not related to Corvina
Big clusters
Prone to downy mildew
Does not ripen uniformly and fruit must be picked bunch over bunch
Good blending partner to Corvina as it adds tannins
Red cherry
Dries well (for appassimento)
Rondinella
Reliable and productive, suitable for wide range of soils
Good disease resistance (good for drying)
Prone to esca
Can give rather neutral wines, light simple cherry
Accumulates sugar very fast (useful for Recioto)
Molinara
high yielding
Pale colour, contributes acidity, red-berry fruit, lightness
Important part of Bardolino blend (up to 40% Molinara)
Valpolicella winemaking
Early consumption
- ferment at controlled 20-25 to retain primary
- short maceration 5-7 days
- aged in steel or large neutral oak for 6-8 months
Also produced as appassimento
Appassimento method
Passito style
Grapes are picked and allowed to reach semi-dried state before they are crushed (3-4 months in well-aerated lofts)
Grapes may be picked early at 11% of potential alcohol
- maintains acidity
- ensures healthy bunches
Must be checked regularly and rotated
Humidity, temperature and air movements are controlled
Grapes loose around one third of their weight
- higher level of sugar
- higher potential alcohol
- higher acidity
- higher anthocyanins and tannins
- higher flavour concenration
- more glycerol (softer, fuller mouthfeel)
Outcomes of appassimento method on flavour of wine
Grapes loose around one third of their weight
- higher level of sugar
- higher potential alcohol
- higher acidity
- higher anthocyanins and tannins
- higher flavour concenration
- more glycerol (softer, fuller mouthfeel)
Common requirements for all DOC and DOCG in Valpolicella
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Possible DOC and DOCGs for Valpolicella
Valpolicella DOC Valpolicella Classico DOC Valpolicella Valpantena DOC - all above can be Superiore Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Valpolicella DOC
Requirements and expression
max yield 84 hl/ha
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Typically made with short maceration
Bright purple tints in youth
Red cherry, rose
No oak flavours, low to med tannin, med (med+)
Valpolicella Classico DOC requirements
Grapes must come from hilly Classico zone
max yield 84 hl/ha
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
Greater concentration than Valpolicella DOC
Valpolicella Valpantena DOC requirements
Grapes from Valpantena valley
max yield 84 hl/ha
Corvina must be 45-95% of the blend
Corvinone may be up to 50% of the Corvina element
Rondinella 5-30%
Other authorized varieties including Molinara
(Valpolicella) Superiore
Optional specification for:
- Valpolicella DOC
- Valpolicella Classico DOC
- Valpolicella Valpantena DOC
Higher min alcohol
Often aged in large oak vessels
Can be sold from 1 January in the second year after harvest
Ruby colour, greater concentraton than basic Valpolicella
Valpolicella producers
Quintarelli
Romano dal Forno
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
requirements and expression
Grapes can be sourced from anywhere in Valpolicella
if classico is stated - must come from Classico zone
Grapes must be dried off the vine for 100-120 days
The final yield (after drying and pressing) is maximum of 48 hl/ha
min 12% abv and aprox. 50 g/l RS
Intense red, fresh and dried fruit
Full body, medium+ (high) tannins
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Requirements and expression
dry or off-dry
Grapes can be sourced anywhere in Valpolicella
The final yield (after drying and pressing) is maximum of 48 hl/ha
Usually vinified after 100-120 days of drying
Min alcohol 14% abv (often 5-10 g/l RS)
Max RS raises in steps for wines with more alcohol
Must be aged min 2 years in large casks or barriques (4 years for riserva)
Intense cherry, dried fruit spice, wood
Med (high) tannins, high acidity
May have new oak flavours, nutty volatile notes from oxidation as part of style
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
Unpressed grape skins with some RS are taken from Amarone or Recioto production and macerated in vinified Valpolicella wine.
- Yeast ferment the RS
- skins give more colour, flavours and tannin
15% of Amarone can be added
Min 12.5% abv (13% for Superiore)
Can be sold from 1 January two years after the harvest
Med (full) body, medium+ tannins
Fresh and stewed red cherries and plums
Wine business Veneto
Valpolicella Consorzio represents 80% producers of DOC(G) wines
- involved in research and sustainability
Amarone and Ripasso are extremely popular style
65% of Amarone is exported
- Germany, USA, Switzerland, UK
Other DOCs in Veneto
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC Bardolino DOC Bardolino Superiore DOCG Bianco di Custoza DOC Lugana DOC
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC
Replaced Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGP
Grapes have to be grown in Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Southern Trentino province of Trentino-Alto Adige
max yield 126 hl/ha
85% of Italian Pinot Grigio (40% worldwide)
Light to med- intensity apple lemon
Light to med- body, med alcohol, med+ acidity
Bardolino DOC
Bardolino Superiore DOCG
Has a small Classico zone
Close to Lake Garda
Mainly light bodied reds and rose
Corvina blends (35-80%) + up to 20% of other authorized red varieties (10% max for any of those)
Merlot can be used
Min alcohol 10.5% (DOC) 11% (DOCG)
Max yield 91 hl/ha
Rose is called Chiaretto
Bianco di Custoza DOC
easy drinking, lightly aromatic fresh white
Blend of mainly Trebbiano Toscano, Garganega, Friulano and optionally Cortese
Mainly sold in Italy (biggest producers are coops)
Lugana DOC
crosses boundary to Lombardy
Turbiana grape (previosly Trebbiano di Lugana) - same as Verdicchio
Ripe apple, citrus, hazelnut
Lively acidity, saline finish
May be oak aged
IGP in Veneto
Venezie IGP
Name for Rose in Bardolino DOC
Chiaretto
Piemonte grape varieties
Barbera Moscato Bianco Dolcetto Nebbiolo Cortese Brachetto Arneis
Piemonte growing environment
Moderate continental climate
- protected from cold northern winds and excessive rain by the Alps
- protected from Mediterranean by Apennines
- thunderstorms hail and fog are common
- late frost can be threat
- low rainfall in June and September - allows grapes to ripen and lowers threat of fungal diseases
- Rain increases in September and October
Nebbiolo
Early budding, very late ripening
Vigorous
- need regular canopy management
- cluster thinning
- excessive exposure to sun can be problem
Must be trained high
- first few buds are infertile
- needs to be pruned with more buds
- Single Guyot most common
Discussion about clonal vs massal selection (Gaja)
Pale ruby (turning garnet within 3-5 years) Pronounced intensity of violets, rose, red cherry and red plum Full body, high acidity, can be high alcohol
Finest and most perfumed on calcareous marls
- south, southwest facing sites in Langhe
Nebbiolo Denominations
Barolo DOCG Barbaresco DOCG Roero DOCG Gattinara DOCG Ghemme DOCG Langhe Nebbiolo DOC Nebbiolo d'Alba DOC
Barolo DOCG
must be 100% Nebbiolo max 56 hl/ha Barolo DOCG - aged for 3 years and 2 months (38 months) - including 18 months in oak Barolo Riserva DOCG - aged for 5 years and 2 months (62 months) - min 18 months in oak
South, South-west facing slopes
- 200-400m
- good sunlight with cooling influence
- pronounced wines with high acidity
Often blends of different villages (Bartolo Mascarello)
Single vineyards (Gaja, Bruno Giacosa)
- status of MGA
- vigna (vineyard) cannot appear on label unless certified
Soils in Barolo
Blue-grey marl - noth and west - lighter more aromatic wines, drinkable faster - La Morra Yellow-grey sand and clay (more fertile) - south and east - closed and tannic in youth - must be cellared for 10-15 years - Serralunga d'Alba
Single vineyards in Barolo and Barbaresco
certification
status of:
- Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive
- MGA or MeGA
- vigna (vineyard) cannot appear on label unless certified
Cannubi, Vigna Rionda
What is Barolo Chinato
Barolo wine sweetened and infused with herbs and spices
Barbaresco DOCG
must be 100% Nebbiolo
Barbaresco min 2 years of ageing (4 years for Riserva)
max yield 56 hl/ha (same as Barolo)
Many single vineyards have MGE status
one third of size of Barolo
- slightly lower altitude
- slightly warmer,
- harvest usually a week before
- riper style
Nebbiolo winemaking
Traditionally
- long maceration (3-4 months)
- 5-8 years of ageing
Elio Altare and Angelo Gaja changed the style
- deeper colour, softer tannins, less need to age, new oak
Current practise
- picking grapes with ripe skins and seeds (eliminating aggressive tannins)
- maceration for 3-4 weeks
- aging in large format oak (French, Slavonian)
- or combination of large and small format oak
- only small proportion of new oak
Roero DOCG
Gattinara DOCG
Ghemme DOCG
style
continental climate with greater diurnal range than Barolo
- higher acidity
- light bodied but intensely perfumed
Valtelina blends in a small proportion of local varieties
Region which produces Nebbiolo blends with local varieties
Valtelina
Lombardy
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Nebbiolo for early drinking
Typically from younger wines or less favoured sites
Maceration for 7-10 days only
Aged for up to 1 year in neutral containers
Some producers declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco
Barbera
Most grown variety in Piemonte
less sensitive to site than Nebbiolo
Relatively early budding (prone to spring frost)
Ripens relatively late
very vigorous - high yields
- hard pruning for quality wines
Disease resistant (but susceptible to fan leaf virus)
High in acidity, med tannin, med alcohol
Range of styles (also lightly sparkling)
Med to deep ruby colour, med intensity red plum, red cherry, sometimes black pepper
Usually now new french oak notes
Top quality
- low yields, old vines, often in small oak barrels to add tannins
Highly concentrated new oak aged wines - Giacomo Bologna (gives capacity to age)
Barbera denominations
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
Nizza DOCG
Piemonte DOC
Barbera denominations, yields and requirements
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
- max 63 hl/ha
- aged min 4 months
Nizza DOCG
- max 49 hl/ha
- aged min 18 months (including 6 months in oak)
Piemonte DOC
- max 84 hl/ha
Dolcetto
Ripens early (compare to Barbera and Nebbiolo) - can be grown on cooler sites
Susceptible to fungal diseases, is fragile (buds get easily broken), low vigour, ripening can be blocked by prolonged cold weather
- reducing yields (also because of Nebbiolo prices)
Reductive in winery (frequent pump overs)
Naturally high tannins
- Requires mid-range ferment temp, short maceration and soft extraction methods to avoid extra tannin
Typically aged in steel or cement to preserve fruit
Denominations for Dolcetto
and max yields
Dolcetto d'Alba DOC - 63 hl/ha Dolcetto di Ovada DOC - 56 hl/ha Dogliani DOCG - 56 hl/ha Piemonte DOC - 77 hl/ha
Expression of Dolcetto (Dogliani DOCG)
And producers
med+ intensity red cherry fruit with floral notes
med- adicity
med+ tannins
Marcarini (Alba) Marziano Abbona (Dogliani)
Freisa
Grape variety planted in Piemonte
Highly aromatic as Nebbiolo but without high tannins
Cortese
High yielding
Thin skinned (susceptible to grey rot)
Light intensity (lemon, apple, pear, white flowers), high acidity
Mostly easy drinking styles
Gavi DOCG (or Cortese di Gavi DOCG) Gavi di Gavi DOCG
Gavi DOCG and Gavi di Gavi DOCG
must be 100% Cortese
max yield 67 hl/ha
Riserva 45 hl/ha (must be aged for one year)
Producers: Castellari Bergaglio and La Scolca
Arneis
Grown in Roero area
Must be picked as soon as desired ripeness is reached as acidity drops quickly
Oxidases easily
Light intensity but complex aroma of white flowers, chamomile, white peach, lemon
Med- acidity
Roero Arneis DOCG
Roero Arneis DOCG
minimum 95% Arneis
up to 70 hl/ha
Producers: Vietti, Bruno Giacosa
Generic appelation in Piemonte
Piemonte DOC (allows wide range of local and international varieties)
there is no IGT
Piemonte wine business
Region of small family-owned farms
- many small growers bottle their wines
(high value of Nebbiolo)
Export
- Barolo 85%
- Barbaresco 75%
- USA, Germany, UK, Scandinavia
Investment wines
(enforced by raising prices of Burgundy and Bordeaux)
Key developments in Tuscany
First exports in Etruscan period (7th century BCE)
1444 - prohibition of picking grapes before certain date (Chianti) to protect quality
Grand Duke Cosimo III de’Medici 1716 precursor of modern GI system
1932 Government Dalmasso extending Chianti and elevating Chianti Classico
Second World War - sharecropping - lowered quality
- followed by post-war investments
1968 Sassicaia
1971 Tignanello - raising quality of Tuscan wines
1980s many DOC(G)s created
Recent return to indigenous varieties, less evident new oak, large casks (botti)
Tuscany Climate
Warm mediterranean on the coast
- adequate rainfall (autumn, winter)
- more continental further inland
- spring frost, hail, rain in harvest period
- drought, water stress
Sangiovese
10% of all vines in Italy
(also: Morellino, Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano)
Difficult to grow
- buds early (frost)
- ripens late (autumn rain)
- does best on south, south-east facing slopes
- quality wines at 200-550m (long season)
- best on shale, limestone with good drainage
- only reasonable quality on clay
- . vigorous (canopy management for shading)
- Thin skins (botrytis)
- Esca prone
- Can produce high yields (volume or quality choice)
Cordon with spurs or cane pruned with VSP
Large choice of clones available
Medium intensity ruby colour, red cherry, red plum, herbal ntes, medium to full body, high acidity, high tannins
Synonym for Sangiovese in Montepulciano
Prugnolo Gentile
Result of Chianti Classico 2000 project
Seven clones with smaller berries, thicker skins, more open bunches
Trebbiano Toscano
Late budding (vulnerable to frost) Vigorous and high yielding
Prone to downy mildew and eutypa dieback otherwise good disease resistance
Ripens well in sun and heat while retaining acidity
Neutral flavours (med- lemon, herbal)
In France known as Ugni Blanc
Declining popularity
Important for Vin Santo
Varieties used to blend with Sangiovese
+ their blending contributions
Canaiolo Nero
- red-berried fruit and floral notes
- light tannin
Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon
- opposit of Canaiolo - dominant in taste
Cabernet Franc, Syrah
Tuscany - Sangiovese winemaking
Historically
- blend of white and red varieties
- kept on skins for 30+ days
- aged in large neutral oak for 3-4 years
Modern style
- white grapes rarely used
- maceration 7-10 days (early drinking) 15-25 days
- temperature controlled steel (concrete comeback)
- old barriques or large neutral casks
- no additional oak flavours
Chianti DOCG
Vineyards are lower than Classico - less than 300m
70-100% Sangiovese
(Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc cannot exceed 15%)
10% of white grapes allowed
Min alcohol 11.5% (subzones usually min 12%)
Max yield 63 hl/ha
Can be released for sale in March following vintage
Chianti Riserva ageing requirement
2 years before release (no oak ageing required)
Chianti subzones
7 named subzones (Chianti Colli Fiorentini)
Max yield 56 hl/ha
Riserva in subzones Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Rufina - must be aged for 6 months in oak (out of 2 years)
Chianti Rufina DOCG
Coolest of the subzones
- altitude 350m
- cool wind descending from Apennines
- high acidity, more restrained fruit
Producers: Selvapiana, Frescobaldi
Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
largest subzones
Warmer than others
- fuller bodied, richer
Min 75% of Sangiovese (max 10% Cabernets)
Chianti Classico DOCG
Hilly area between Florence and Siena
- 200-500m
- cool nights
Soils
- schistous, crumbly rock with clay and marl (galestro)
(aromatic with ageing potential)
- calcareous soils wih clay (alberese)
- sandstone
- good drainage and water-holding capacity
Min 80% Sangiovese (no white varieties permitted)
Max yield 52.5 hl/ha
Can be released no sooner than October in the year after the harvest
(Riserva - aged for 2 years from 1 January after the harvest)
Label may mention name of single vineayrds
May not be labelled as Chianti DOCG (Classico is not a subzone but its own appellation)
International style (more Merlot, deeper colour, evident vanilla from new oak) and traditional style (paler, sour cherry, restrained new oak)
Producers: Fontodi, Castello di Ama
Soil types in Chianti Classico DOCG
- schistous, crumbly rock with clay and marl (galestro)
- calcareous soils wih clay (alberese)
- sandstone
Galestro soil
schistous, crumbly rock with clay and marl
- aromatic wines with ageing potential
Chianti Classico
Alberese soil
calcareous soils wih clay
Chianti Classico
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
since 2013
Grapes must come from single vineyard or an estate owned by the producer
Min 30 months of ageing (no oak requirement)
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG
First bottled by Biondi-Santi in 1865
- expansion in planting by Banfi (USA market)
Warmer and drier than Chianti, more protected from rain by Monte Amiata
- adequate rainfall
- cooling breezes from Mediterranean (acidity)
Hilly denomination 120-500m
- north - galestro soils (aromatic)
- lower, warmer south with more clay (fuller bodied)
Must be 100% Sangiovese
Max yield 54 hl/ha
May not be released until 1 January five years after harvest (must include 2 years in oak)
Riserva - 6 years of ageing 3 in oak
Label may mention single vineyard.
Intense sour cherry, high acidity and tannin (giving longevity), complex aroma even after release (long ageing)
Producers: Casanova di Neri, Soldera
Rosso di Montalcino DOC
Must be 100% Sangiovese
Grapes from same area as Brunello
Can be sold after a year
Often from younger vines or less promising sites
or declassified Brunello
Aged briefly in steel or oak
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
East and south-east facing slopes (250-600m)
- higher vineyards, more aromatic, longer season
- heavy cool clay (fuller bodied) or sand (aromatic)
Traditional style
- full bodied, austere, requiring ageing
Modern style
- shorter extraction periods
- small french oak for maturation
- accesible in youth
Must be 70-100% Sangiovese Max yield 56 hl/ha Must be aged min 2 years from 1 January after harvest - 12-24 months in oak - 3 years for Riserva (no oak required)
Vineyard name may be on label
Declassified - Rosso di Montepulciano DOC
Producers: Avignonesi, Contucci
Declassified Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Rosso di Montepulciano DOC
Other denominations in Tuscany
Morellino di Scansano DOCG Maremma Toscana DOC Bolgheri DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Toscana IGT
Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Warm area moderated by altitude (average 250m) and cooling winds from sea at night
- ripe fruit, black fruit notes along sour cherry
Min 85% Sangiovese
Max yield 63 hl/ha
Producers: Le Pupille, Morisfarms
Maremma Toscana DOC
large denomination (8500ha)
DOC allows wide rang eof varieties including international
- Sangiovese, Merlot, Vermentino
- Bordeaux blends
Max yield 77 hl/ha for red wine
Producers: Le Pupille, Rocca di Frassinello
Bolgheri DOC
Specializing in Bordeaux blends
Max yield 63 hl/ha
Min ageing 1 year
Warm climate with cool night (sea proximity)
- winds from sea reduce fungal diseases
- varied soils
- irrigation is allowed
- relatively little rain during harvest period
Wines were initially bottled as vino da tavola until 1983
Usually significant amount of new French oak
DOC allows
- up to 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc or Merlot
- up to 50% Syrah and Sangiovese
- up to 30% other varieties
Bolgheri Rosso Superiore
- more restricted yields 56 hl/ha
- min aged 2 years from 1 January after harvest
Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC
DOC for single estate - Tenuta San Guido
- owned by Frescobaldi family
min 80% Cabernet Sauvignon
min 2 years of ageing (including 18 month in 225L oak)
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Italy’s first DOC 1966
Dry summers, very windy (low disease pressure)
- hills 200-400m
Min 85% of Vernaccia
(up to 10% Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling)
max yield 63 hl/ha (vernaccia can produce high yields)
Med intensity (lemon, floral) med+ acidity
Producers: Panizzi and Montenidoli
Italy’s first DOC
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
1966
Toscana IGT
higher permitted yields
Any registered grape variety
Includes
- Masseto (Merlot - Frescobaldi)
- Solaia (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Cebernet Franc - Antinori)
Vin Santo
Made by appassimento method
Blend of Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia
- singly or together min 60% of blend in Chianti Classico
Permitted within many denominations
- Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
- Chianti
- Chianti Classico
- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Min ageing
- 2 years (Chianti Classico)
- 3 years (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano)
Combination of raising and falling temperature, oxidative ageing without topping up - amber colour
- dried fruit (apricot lemon), nutty
- volatile acidity
- sweet but balanced by high acidity
- med+ (high) alcohol
Rare red version based on Sangiovese
- Occhio di Pernice
Rare red version of Vin Santo based on Sangiovese
Occhio di Pernice
Appellations in Tuscany producing Vin Santo
- Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
- Chianti
- Chianti Classico
- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Wine business in Tuscany
50% of production Chianti (30% in bricks)
- Chianti classico has the biggest value
Cooperatives 14% in Chianti, rest usually farmers
Large export
- Chianti Classico 80% (USA, Germany, Canada)
- Montalcino 70% (USA, Canada)
- Montepulciano 80% (Germany, USA)
Promotion
- as historical, traditional - Montalcino
- as world-class - Bolgheri
Marche most common wine styles
Blends of Montepulciano and Sangiovese
Verdicchio
Marche growing environment and climate
Mediterranean climate
- little rainfall
- more continental further inland
- low hills and higher zones
Soils
- limestone and clay (similar to Tuscany)
- good balance of free-draining and water-retaining
Verdicchio
Needs to be given space as first four buds are sterile
- low densities
Late ripening
Retains high acidity, but needs a long ripening season to make quality wines (risk of late season rain)
Susceptible to both mildews and botrytis bunch rot
Pale lemon, med- intensity white flowers, apple, lemon, fennel, almond
Slightly bitter finish, high acidity, med body
Some Riserva goes through MLF Can produce high concentration and acidity Often aged on lees (but not in new oak - can be aged for decade or more - dried fruit, mushroom notes
Verdicchio denominations
Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio DOC
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio DOC
Low hills of Ancona
- clay ad limestone
Includes Classico zone
Max yield 98 hl/ha (Classico Superiore zone 77 hl/ha)
Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva is DOCG
- requires 18 months of ageing (no oak requirement)
Verdicchio di Matelica DOC
Higher zone in foothills of Apennines
- protected from sea influence by mountains
- continental climate
- longer season, higher acidity
- mixture of sandstone with fossils and less clay
- fast draining
Max yield 91 hl/ha
(fuller bodied, higher acidity, less fruit than Jesi)
Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG
- min 12.5% alcohol
- min 18 month of ageing (no oak requirement)
Pecorino
High disease resistance
Best trained long (Guyot or pergola)
- Sterile buds near trunk
Ripens early
Tend to have high alcohol (14.5%)
- balanced by naturally high acidity
Herbal notes (sage, thyme, mint) crisp apple, pear Medum body
Can be sold as Marche IGT or Offida Pecorino DOCG
Denomination for Pecorino in Marche
Offida Pecorino DOCG
Passerina
Grown mainly in Marche and Abruzzo
Good disease resistance, high production
Ripens after Pecorino
- vulnerable to autumn rain
Natural high acidity (which can loose quickly)
Ripe lemon, yellow apple
Can be labelled Marche IGT or Offida Passerina DOCG
Grape varieties in Marche
Montepulciano Sangiovese Verdicchio Biancame Trebbiano Toscano Pecorino Passerina
Montepulciano
Often blended with Sangiovese
(high quality blends often 80% Montepulciano)
Resistant to botrytis bunch rot and downy mildew but susceptible to powdery mildew
Needs long season to ripen fully (avoid bitterness)
- tends to ripen unevenly within bunches
- either lower quality or careful sorting
Susceptible to reduction
Maceration depends on style (careful with tannins!)
(5 days simple, 20 days quality)
2 styles
- ripe, med intensity, red cherry, no oak, med body short maceration
- pronounced, med+ intensity, red cherry and black plum, oak aroma, med+ tannin, long maceration followed by ageing in oak (large)
Montepulciano (and blends) denominations in Marche
Rosso Piceno DOC
- 35-80% Montepulciano
Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC
- can only be made in 13 townships in Ascoli Piceno
- requires higher alcohol and min 1 year of ageing
- includes Offida DOCG
Offida Rosso DOCG
- must be 85-100% Montepulciano
- must be aged for 24 months (of which 12 in oak)
Rosso Conero DOC
Conero Riserva DOCG (only blended with Sangiovese)
- min 85% Montepulciano
- min 2 years of ageing (of which 1 in oak)
Wine business in Marche
Promotional body - Istituto Marchigiano di Tutela Vini
Producers: Umani Ronchi, Fazi Battaglia
Cooperative: Moncaro
Mainly sold in Italy
One third exported - USA, Canada, China, Japan
Umbria climate
Warm mildly continental climate
- heat stress in summer
- 800mm of rain, mainly autumn and winter
- low risk of fungal diseases
- sufficiently dry autumns to pick late harvested grapes
Grechetto
Thick skinned
- resistant to diseases
- suitable for late harvesting
Low to med intensity lemon and white flowers
High acidity, med body
Sagrantino
Speciality of Umbria
Needs full sunshine to ripen
Moderately productive
Best grown on hillsites up to 400m
- best light interception and drainage
Spider mites can live in hairy underside of leaves
Vine moths, powdery and downy mildew
Very tannic variety, deep ruby, med+ (prononouced) intensity, red plum, high acidity, high tannins
Requires long ageing
Denominations in Umbria
Orvieto DOC
Montefalco Rosso DOC
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG
Orvieto DOC
Includes Classico zone
Stretches into Lazio
Must be min 60% Trebbiano Toscano and/or Grechetto
Must be grown at 100-550m
max yield 77 hl/ha
(Superiore max 56 hl/ha)
Includes dry, off-dry and sweet wines (vendemia tardiva or muffa nobile)
Med- intensity lemon, apple, top end of med alcohol, med+ acidity, light body
Producers: Barberani
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG
Must be 100% Sagrantino
max yield 52 hl/ha
must be aged for 33 months (including 1 year in wood)
May be labelled with single vineyard name
2-3 weeks of maceration (not too long to extract too much tannins)
Some soften tannins by ageing in barriques (Arnaldo Caprai) or large casks followed by extended bottle ageing.
Rosso di Montefalco DOC
Sangiovese main variety (60-70%)
Sagrantino 10-15% + other varieties
max yield 77 hl/ha
Min ageing 18 months
Wine business in Umbria
Large companies which are innovators in
- organic viticulture - Barberani
- recovery of energy and biomass - Lungarotti
- sustainability - Arnaldo Caprai
60% Sagrantino exported - USA, Germany, Canada
Grape varieties in Lazio
Trebbiano Malvasia - Malvasia Bianca di Candia - Malvasia di Lazio Merlot Sangiovese Cesanese
Climate in Lazio
Warm mediterranean
- moderated by altitude on low hills up to 300m and cool winds from sea
- occasional frost, excessive heat, rain during harvest
Malvasia Bianca di Candia
vs
Malvasia di Lazio
Malvasia Bianca di Candia
- good disease resistance
- high yields
- prone to oxidation
- med- intensity, lemon, apple, med+ alcohol, light body
- amount planted decreases
- prefered Malvasia
Malvasia di Lazio
- cross between Muscat of Alexandria and local variety
- grapey and peach flavours
- looses acidity fast when ripe
- widely replaced because it has lower yields and disease resistance
- more flavour
Cesanese
black semi-aromatic variety
very late ripening
high yielding but with high quality potential
Prone to powdery mildew,
Vulnerable to autumn rain and failure to fully ripen
Grown inland on higher slopes up to 600m
- higher diurnal range
Pronounced cherry, rose petal, medium tannins, med acidity, high alcohol
DOCG Cesanese di Piglio
Producer: Damiano Ciolli
Frascati DOC
and
Frascati Superiore DOCG
Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia di Lazio
- singly or together min 70%
- can include up to 30% Trebbiano Toscano
Max yield 105 hl/ha
Cool ferment, brief storage in steel
Frascati Superiore DOCG
- same grape requirements
- max 77 hl/ha
- one year of ageing required (no oak required)
- 20% of vineyards
Denomination for Cesanese
DOCG Cesanese di Piglio
DOC Cesanese di Affile
Denominations in Lazio
Frascati DOC
Frascati Superiore DOCG
Cesanese di Piglio DOCG
Castelli Romani DOC
Castelli Romani DOC
Large area with many DOCs within (including Frascati)
up to 120 hl/ha
whites must be based on Malvasia or Trebbiano
Wine business Lazio
Mostly high volume Reputation for quality fell and production decreased Cooperatives are important 60% Frascati exported Local demand from Rome
Three main wine styles in Abruzzo
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
- crisp white, high acidity, unoaked
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo
- med bodied rose from Montepulciano
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo reds
Abruzzo growing environment and climate
Flat coastal zone and hillside under Apennines
Continental climate
- cold snowy winter, short summers
- cooling influence of moutains
- longer season, slow sugar accumulation
- spring frost, autumn rain threat
Coastal zone maritime and mediterranean climate
- lower risk of frost and rain at harvest
- higher temperatures
- suited to high volume production
Historically low densities, pergolas
Now denser, cordon or Guyot, lower yields
- adjusted to machine harvesting
- hand harvesting on slopes
Trebbiano Abruzzese
Not related to other Trebbianos
often called Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Mid to late ripening
Vigorous and productive
- well suited to pergola
Prone to powdery mildew
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
both Trebbiano Toscano (lower quality) and Abruzzese allowed
max yield 98 hl/ha
MLF usually blocked, aged in steel
Producer: Valentini, Masciarelli
Denomination for rose in Abruzzo
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
med intensity pink (deeper than modern roses)
Can be made:
- short maceration (usually up to 12h)
- direct pressing
- saignee (by-product)
Med+ bodied
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
2 styles
- light, short time on skins, light extraction
(15% Merlot or Primitivo may be added)
- High quality - extended time in barrel to soften tannins, large oak common (some use barriques)
3 levels for red wines: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - must be on hilly sites - up to 98 hl/ha 5 official subzones - up to 66 hl/ha - min 18 months of ageing (half of which in oak) Colline Teramane Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOCG - former subzone - up to 66 hl/ha - min 2 years of ageing (1 in oak)
Typically aged in oak
deep ruby coour, med intensity red cherry, plum, med+ body, high tannin
3 levels of Montepulciano denominations
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
- must be on hilly sites
- up to 98 hl/ha
5 official subzones
- up to 66 hl/ha
- min 18 months of ageing (half of which in oak)
Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG
- former subzone
- up to 66 hl/ha
- min 2 years of ageing (1 in oak)
Abruzzo wine business
Dominated by cooperative (75%) - 40 coops
-Cantina Tollo
Majority inexpensive, small number of premium producers
- Valentini, Masciarelli
Campagna growing environment and main soil types with their DOC(G)s
Between mediterranean sea and apennine mountains
- mostly on slopes (200-600m)
Warm mediterranean climate
- many varieties are late ripening
3 soil types Limestone and clay - hills, balance of drainage and water retention - Fiano di Avelino DOCG - Greco di Tufo DOCG - Taurasi DOCG Volcanic and sandy (around Naples) - Campi Flegrei DOC (Falanghina and Piedirosso) - Vesuvio DOC (Piedirosso and Coda di Volpe) Alluvial sediments - Sannio DOC - Beneventano IGP
Grape varieties in Campagna
Aglianico Falanghina Barbera Malvasia Sangiovese Greco
Falanghina
+ denomination
Most grown white variety in Campagna
Good disease resistance
Fruit can begin to shrivel in the end of season
Mid to late ripening (threaten by rain in autumn)
Medium intensity apple, white peach, herbaceous (grass), med+ acidity
Mostly unoaked
Falanghina del Sannio DOC
- max yield 84 hl/ha
- Including Campi Flegrei
Greco
+ denomination
Challenging to grow
- prone to grey rot and both mildews
- low vigour and productivity
- but tolerant to heat and drought resistant
Late ripening (October)
Deep lemon colour, high alcohol, oily texture, floral stone fruit, smoky notes
Mostly unoaked, ages well
Greco di Tufo DOCG
- limestone and clay
- tufo does not refer to soil type
- max yield 70 hl/ha
Fiano
+ denomination
Potentially high quality variety with ageing potential
Sensitive to both mildews but has thick skin to resist botrytis
Late ripening
Med- (med) intensity, floral, peach, hazelnut, med+ body, med (med+) acidity, waxy texture
Fiano di Avelino DOCG
- max yield 70 hl/ha
Aglianico
+ denomination
Early budding, late ripening (requires long season)
Vigorous (has to be controlled)
Prone to botrytis
Med+ intensity, red plum, blackberry, high acidity, high tannins (softened by small barrels or long ageing in large casks)
High quality wines on cool slopes (200-600m)
Taurasi DOCG
- min 85% Aglianico
- max 70 hl/ha
- min 3 years of ageing (inluding 1 year in wood)
- (Riserva - 4 years, 18 months in wood)
- Long maceration (20+ days)
- French barriques or large traditional casks
Piedirosso
+ denomination
Pale ruby, fresh medium+ acidity, medium tannins, red plum, red cherry
Adapted to heat and drought
Open bunches of thick skin berries (resists botrytis)
many wines are ungrafted
Late harvested but only 12-13% alcohol
Also softens Aglianico based blends
Campi Flegrei DOC and Vesuvio DOC
- including islands of Ischia and Capri
- min 50% Piedirosso
Denominations for whole provinces to ‘declassify’ wine in Campagna
Irpinia DOC (for Avellino)
Sannio DOC (for Benevento)
less strict rules and higher yieds
Wine producers in Campagna
Mastroberandino
Terradora
Feudi di San Gregorio
cooperative - La Guardiense (15% of production)
Basilicata growing environment
Between Campagna and Puglia
Monte Vulture - inactive volcano
Most of the wine is IGT or ‘wine’ quality
Warm mediterranean climate
- cooling altitude up to 600m
- breezes from Balcans
- wide diurnal range
Aglianico del Vulture DOC
must be 100% Aglianico
max yield 70 hl/ha
min one year of ageing
Clay limestone and volcanic soils
- excellent drainage on volcanic material, good water retention of limestone and clay
Warm mediterranean climate
- cooling altitude up to 600m
- breezes from Balcans
- wide diurnal range
Usually aged in French oak barriques (may be new)
Red plum, blackberry, full body, high acidity, high alcohol, high tannin
Capable of extented bottle ageing
Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG
- 52 hl/ha
- 3 year, 1 year in oak
- Riserva 4 years, 2 in oak
Producers: d’Angelo, Elena Fucci
Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG
requirements and producers
- 52 hl/ha
- 3 years, 1 year in oak
- Riserva 4 years, 2 in oak
Producers: d’Angelo, Elena Fucci
Producers of Basilicata
d’Angelo
Elena Fucci
Paternoster
Puglia growing environment
Surrounded by sea on three sides Hot mediterranean climate - breezes from the sea - suited to high volume production - low rainfall (low disease pressure) - fertile soils (irrigation permitted)
Historically wine was exported to other parts of Italy to add alcohol and body to cooler area blends
Grape varieties in Puglia
Sangiovese Primitivo Negroamano Montepulciano Trebbiano Toscano Trebbiano Giallo
Primitivo
Ripens early, early budding
High yielding
Prone to frost, drought, poor flowering and fruit set in rainy and humid years
- large vintage variation of yield
Bunches are looser than in Zinfandel
- typically contain ripe and unripe grapes within bunch
- sorting required
Accumulates sugar easily
- high alcohol
- tendency to dry on vine around harvest
- picking early to avoid jammy flavours
old bush vines, low density
Premium wines often aged in French oak barriques for 12 months
Primitivo di Manduria DOC
Gioia del Colle DOC
Med+ (pronounced) ripe to jammy, red cherry, strawberry, med acidity, med to med+ tannin
Producers: Gianfranco Fino, Polvanera
Producers of Primitivo in Puglia
Gianfranco Fino
Polvanera
Primitivo denominations
+ requirements
Primitivo di Manduria DOC
- min 85% Primitivo
- max 63 hl/ha
- Riserva must be aged for 2.5 years (including 9 months in wood)
- min 14% alcohol
Gioia del Colle DOC
- must be 50-60% Primitivo, blended with Montepulciano, Sangiovese and/or Negroamaro and up to 10% of Malvasia
- max 52 hl/ha
- Riserva must be aged for 2 years (no oak required)
- min 14% alcohol
- slightly cooler than Manduria
Negroamaro
+ denomination in Puglia
requirements
High yielding
Good resistance to disease and drought
Ability to retain acidity (suitable for hot climate)
In past it was used to add alcohol and body to wines of cooler climates
Salice Salentino DOC
- min 75% of Negroamaro (if variety is on label 90%)
- max 84 hl/ha
- Riserva min 2 years of ageing (6 months in large wooden casks)
Typically macerated for 7-10 days. Aged in steel or oak.
Black plum, black cherry, med (high) alcohol, med acidity, med+ tannins
Also made into Rose (deep pink orange)
Producers: Agricola Vallone and Leone de Castris
Negroamaro producers
Agricola Vallone
Leone de Castris
Nero di Troia
+ denomination and requirements
+ producers
also called Uva di Troia
Late ripening, needs long season to develop full colour
- bunches ripen in different times
Prone to downy mildew
Med intensity red cherry, red currant, black pepper note, high but fine-grained tannins, med acidity
Castel del Monte DOC
- min 90% Nero di Troia (if variety is stated)
- max 91 hl/ha
- DOCG for Riserva max yield 70 hl/ha + 2 years of ageing (one in wood)
Producers: Rivera, Torrevento
Nero di Troia producers
Rivera
Torrevento
Wine business in Puglia
large volumes of inexpensive wine
Less than 10% classified as PDO
60% ‘wine’
Cooperatives are very important - Cantina Due Palme
Quality is raising thanks to investments (Antinori and Tormaresca) and local companies
Sicily growing environment
Warm mediterranean climate (highly suitable for viti)
- with variety of mesoclimates
Low rainfall - necessity of irrigation
Sicily grape varieties
Catarratto Nero d'Avola Grillo Inzolia Syrah Chardonnay Zibbibo
Cattarato
High yields and disease resistant
Light intensity lemon and herbal notes
High acidity, med alcohol
Grillo
Natural cross betwen Catarratto and Moscato
Moderately high yielding
Heat resistant, good disease resistance
over-exposed bunches can loose aroma
Oxidises easily (Marsala, not protective vini)
Full body, med intensity lemon, floral notes, med alcohol, high acidity
Producer Marco de Bartoli
Grillo producer
Marco de Bartoli
Inzolia (Ansonica)
early ripening
Good drought resistance
Needs to be picked early to retain acidity
Med- lemon, med acidity, med body
Producers Valle dell’Acate, Principi di Butera
Zibbibo
Most famous place where it is grown and its styles
Local name for Moscato (Muscat of Alexandria) in Sicily
Heat and drought resistant
Wide range of styles
Pantelleria
- intense sunlight, heat, wind
- low bush vines planted in holes
- challenge to balance sweetness and acidity
3 styles
- dry
- late harvest
- Passito (deep lemon colour, pronounced cooked orange, apricot and honey. High alcohol and sweet) - Donnafugata
Nero d’Avola
+ its denomination
Most planted variety in Sicily (also known as Calabrese)
Late ripening, grown close to ground to maximise heat
- adaptable variety
- very vigorous (requires a lot of canopy management)
Susceptible to powdery mildew
Uneven flowering (vintage variation)
Med (deep) ruby, red cherry, black plum, med+ (high)tannins, med (med+) acidity.
Typically aged in small oak barrels
Also blended with Frappato
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG
- 50-70 Nero d’Avola, 30-50 Frappato
- 52 hl/ha
- Producers: Cos, Planeta
Synonym for Nero d’Avola
Calabrese
Producers of Nero d’Avola
Single varietal: Gulfi, Feudo Montoni
Blends: Cos, Planeta
Frappato blending contribution
strawberry, herbal aromas, fresh red fruit
Nerello Mascalese
Buds early, late ripening
Coulure susceptible (varying yields)
Etna’s high altitude (400-1000m) gives it long season
- adding intensity
Prone to powdery mildew and botrytis
Deleafing around fruit is common in cooler areas
- if done too early, berries can be burnt
- if done too late, grapes may fail to ripen
Medium to pale ruby colour (depending on level of extraction)
High intensity aroma (red cherry, violet, herbal earth)
High acidity, med to high tannins (depending on extraction), high end of medium alcohol
Relatively short time on skins (10-15 days)
Etna Rosso DOC
Min 80% Nerello Mascalese
+ Nerello Cappuccio (for colour and red berry fruit)
max yield 56 hl/ha
Riserva min 4 years of ageing (one in wood)
Many very old vines (60-100 years)
Moderate to steep slopes (hand worked)
Usually aged in large neutral oak casks or 500-600 l barrels
Carricante
main part of Etna Bianco DOC
Prone to fungal diseases
Grows well in high altitudes (up to 1000m)
High acidity, usually goes through MLF
Typically aged in old oak for texture
Med intensity lemon and green apple, high acidity, med alcohol
Etna Bianco DOC
Min 60% Carricante
+ Catarratto
Usually goes through MLF
Typically aged in old oak for texture
Med intensity lemon and green apple, high acidity, med alcohol
Generic denomination in Sicily
Max yields for whites and reds
Sicilia DOC (replaced former IGT)
- large range of varieties including international
- max 91 hl/ha for whites
- max 84 hl/ha for reds
Wine business in Sicily
Led by small number of large and influential private companies
- Planeta, Donnafugata, Tasca d’Almerita
Also important cooperatives
- Settesoli
In the past mostly exported in bulk to add alcohol and body to wines from cooler regions
- now only 20% of wine is bottled
Promotional body: Assovini Sicilia
- organises annual tasting - Sicilia En Primeur
Promotinal body of Sicily
Assovini Sicilia
- organises annual tasting - Sicilia En Primeur
- founded by: Planeta, Donnafugata, Tasca d’Almerita
Sardinia growing environment
Warm mediterranean climate
Low rainfall during growing season
- south-west needs more irrigation
Hilly - moderating factor
Winds from the sea (less fungal diseases)
Grape varieties in Sardinia
Cannonau (Grenache Noir) Vermentino Carignano Monica Nera Nuragus Sangiovese
French synonym for Cannonau
Grenache Noir
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC
requirements (including producers)
grown in any part of the island
- but there is also Classico zone
Max yield 77 hl/ha (63 hl/ha in Classico)
Riserva must be aged for 2 years (6 months in wood, 12 months for Classico)
Dry and sweet fortified wines mainly sold locally
Producers: Sella & Mosca, Argiolas
Vermentino
early budding, ripens in mid-season
Prone to downy mildew and European grape moth
Grows best on sunny, exposed sites with poor soils
Med intensity lemon and acacia aroma, riper examples have tropical aromas. Light to medium body with med alcohol and med+ acidity
Typically short period of skin contact (24h) and ferment at cool temp.
Some very good wines are aged on lees.
Vermentino di Sardegna DOC
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG
French synonym for Vermentino
Rolle
Denominations for Vermentino in Sardinia
Vermentino di Sardegna DOC
- can be grown anywhere in Sardinia
- up to 112 hl/ha
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG
- north-east corner of the island
- max 63 hl/ha
Carignano
+ denomination
Local name for Carignan
Heat and drought resistant variety
Low fertility soils also help to restrain its natural vigour
Carignano des Sulcis DOC
- bush vines (required for Superiore category)
- Limited irrigation permitted (not after veraison)
- max 77 hl/ha
- Superiore max. 52.5 hl/ha
- Superiore and Riserva min 2 years of ageing
- Producers: Agricola Punica and Santadi
Carignano des Sulcis DOC
- bush vines (required for Superiore category)
- Limited irrigation permitted (not after veraison)
- max 77 hl/ha
- Superiore max. 52.5 hl/ha
- Superiore and Riserva min 2 years of ageing
- Producers: Agricola Punica and Santadi
Wine business in Sardinia
History of bulk wine for blending
Cooperative wineries growth thans to EU founding
High quality coops - Cantina Santadi
Why has there been a reduction in plantings of Trebbiano Toscano in recent years?
Because of its lack of fruitiness and low flavour intensity.
Which soil types has Sangiovese proven to be more successful on?
Limestone and shale
Not so good on clay
Briefly describe the two style of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC that are produced.
One style is ripe with medium intensity red cherry fruit, medium body and medium tannins. This style will not display any oak flavours.
The other style is more pronounced intensity of red cherry, black plum and oak aromas. The tannins will be medium (+) and some of the best wines will be aged in small oak vessels.
briefly describe the three styles of Moscato made on Pantelleria.
Dry: fermented in stainless steel, released early to retain aromatic Muscat character
Late harvest: picked a week later than for dry wines with the fermentation being stopped to retain residual sugar for a sweet style
Passito: made with semi-dried grapes, traditionally sun-dried, with high levels of residual sugar.
Which form of vine training is a requirement for Carignano del Sulcis Superiore DOC?
Bush vines