Ch. 20 – Spain Flashcards
Spain
Spain
Brief history of wine in Spain
Evidence over 5 thousand years
- Phoenicians, Romans
Exports and colonies in America (fortified wines)
18th century Manuel Quinano y Quintano
- experience from Bordeaux and barriques
- no price difference between wines in Rioja
Luciano de Murrieta, Marques de Murrieta, Marques de Riscal
- exile in Bordeaux during civil war 19th century
- new techniques brought back
Phylloxera in France
- Rioja exporting wines to France
- Phylloxera hit Spain as well in late stage
Loss of colonies (export markets)
1926 Rioja - first regulations
Economy devastation
- civil war 1936-1939
- economic isolation of Franco’s government
- cooperatives, bulk wine
Miguel Torres
- French and German varieties, trellising
- temperature control, laboratories established
1996 - legalization of irrigation
- raise of production levels
New styles and regions are being explored
- also revitalizing indigenous varieties
- return to abandoned vineyards
Irrigation in Spain
permitted in 1996
still regulated by regions (Consejo Regulador)
- in some only to establish young vines
- not permitted during ripening period
Historically important Spanish winemakers
18th century Manuel Quinano y Quintano
- experience from Bordeaux and barriques
- no price difference between wines in Rioja
Luciano de Murrieta, Marques de Murrieta, Marques de Riscal
- exile in Bordeaux during civil war 19th century
- new techniques brought back
Miguel Torres (20th century)
- French and German varieties, trellising
- temperature control, laboratories established
Phylloxera in Spain
came in very late stage when remedies were known
- Spain supplied wine to Phylloxera hit France beforehand
Many regions were unaffected thanks to sandy soils
- Toro, Rueda
Spain climate
Generally warm, can vary markedly
- extensive coastline, mountains, plateau
Low annual rainfall (as little as 300mm)
North west
- influenced by Atlantic - maritime
- high rainfall level
North, North-east
- sheltered from Atlantic by mountains
- continental with maritime or mediterranean influence
South and east
- moderated mediterranean climate
Meseta plateau (central Spain)
- continental
- 600-900m moderates the heat
Spain vineyard management
Many old bush vines planted at low density
- low annual rainfall (as little as 300mm)
- naturally low yields
- irrigation is permitted (regulated by regions)
Heavy storms with temperatures raising quickly afterwards
- risk of mildew
- in some regions frost is problem (continental)
Phylloxera 20th century
- resistant rootstocks
- Toro, Rueda unaffected (sand)
Significant produers farming organic (few certified)
- not believing in raising cost by certification
Average very small vineyard holdings (66% 0.5ha)
- limited mechanization
Name of large raised plateau in central Spain
Meseta
- 600-900m moderates the heat
Size of vineyards plantings (world’s rating)
World’s largest vineyard plantings 967,000ha
- but only 3rd largest wine producer (Italy, France)
Many bush vines and low density
Grape varieties
Airen Tempranillo Bobal Garnacha Macabeo Monastrell
relatively evenly spread between white and red
Airén
Central Spain - Castilla-La Mancha
Inexpensive neutral white wines
Much used for destillation of Brandy de Jerez
Tempranillo
Various synonyms
Various quality levels
- best from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro
Medium to high yields
- quality focused growers reduce yields
Early ripenig
- best in warm regions with some cooling influence
Bobal
Mainly east coast red and rose wines
Garnacha Tinta
Grenache
Red and rose (central and north-east mainly)
Macabeo
Mainly Catalunya
- both still and Cava
Main white variety in Rioja (called Viura)
Many inexpensive but also premium examples
- ferment and aged in oak
Monastrell
Mourvedre
Predominantly Valencia and Murcia
- well suited to Mediterranean climate
- needs heat late in season - late ripening
Synonym for Alicante Bouschet in Spain
Garnacha Tintorera
Synonym for Garnacha Tintorera
Alicante Bouschet
Synonym for Macabeo in Rioja
Viura
Synonym for Viura
Macabeo
Synonym for Monastrell
Mourvedre
What is Mourvedre called in Spain
Monastrell
Winemaking for youthful fruity red white and rose
Made protectively
Stainless steel with temp control
Inert gases
Cultured yeast
Fining and/or filtration
Many undergo carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration
Winemaking in Spain
Temperature control
- some use concrete, eggs, amphorae
Oak maturation very common for reds (mid price and above)
- American oak common (raising French oak)
White winemaking
Temperature control
- some use concrete, eggs, amphorae
Unoaked but also fermented and/or aged in wood
- unoaked whites may be aged on lees.
General ageing rules of wines in Spain
National ageing legislation specifies the minimum times of ageing in oak for Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva
- individual DOs may be stricter
- criticised for being too prescriptive but also not enough
- no quality requirements set for these categories
- age and origin of oak not specified
- very little indication of style or value
The oak vessel MUST be of a maximum 330 litres
Many producers don’t use these labelling terms
- larger barrels
- not meeting minimum time
- no believe in the system
Mostly used in Rioja or RIbera del Duero
Criticism of ageing requirements in Spain
- too prescriptive but also not enough
- no quality requirements set for these categories
- age and origin of oak not specified
- very little indication of style or value
Many producers don’t use these labelling terms
- larger barrels
- not meeting minimum time
- no believe in the system
Maximum size of barrel for ageing of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva
330 litres
Where are Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva labelling terms mostly used?
Rioja
Ribera del Duero
Roble
Labelling term for oak
Joven
Term for wines released young
- often minimum oak
Labelling term for oak
Roble
Term for wines which are released young
Joven
Oak of choice
American
- strong trading relationship with America
- relatively cheap compared to French oak
Use of French oak has grown
- Penedes, Priorat, Ribera del Duero
Also blending both
Rose winemaking
much is inexpensive and sold in bulk
Better understanding of viti and harvesting times, improvements in vini and focus on market trends
Leading away from over-ripe jammy wines
Classically deep colour (pale colours increased in recent years)
- longer skin contact
- mainly steel
- bottled soon after ferment
- may be matured and stored in oak on lees
Minimum ageing for Crianza
Red
- total 24 months
- 6 months in barrel
White and rose
- total 18 months
- 6 months in barrel
Minimum ageing for Reserva
Red
- total 36 months
- 12 months in barrel
White and rose
- total 24 months
- 6 months in barrel
Minimum ageing for Gran Reserva
Red
- total 60 months
- 18 months in barrel
White and rose
- total 48 months
- 6 months in barrel
Wine law and regulations
Labelling terms
PDO and PGI system as part of EU
DO and DOCa/DOQ (denominación de origen)
- 70 DO
- Rioja and Priorat are the only DOCa/DOQ
(denominación de origen calificada)
VP (Vino de Pago)
- small numbers of single estates with high reputations
- estates may use only their grapes, vinified and matured on their estate
- within PDO
VT (Vino de la Tierra)
- PGI wines (around 40 VTs)
Vino
- without geographical indication
Set and controlled by Consejo Regulador
- max yields
- permitted varieties
- vineyard practises (irrigation)
- winemaking practises (ageing)
- bottling requirements
Requirements to apply for DOQ/DOCa status
DO must have been established for a min of 10 years
All wines must be bottled at producer’s property
Various quality regulations
- including tasting assessment by external panel
Difference between Vino de Pago and Grandes Pagos de Espana
VP (Vino de Pago)
- small numbers of single estates with high reputations
- estates may use only their grapes, vinified and matured on their estate
- within PDO
Grandes Pagos de Espana
- association of prestigious estates
- only some are qualified to label as ‘Vino de Pago’
Who regulates wine law in each denomination?
what can be regulated?
Consejo Regulador
- max yields
- permitted varieties
- vineyard practises (irrigation)
- winemaking practises (ageing)
- bottling requirements
Wine business in Spain general
Many producers with tiny landholdings
- dominated by cooperatives
- negociants also common
- Wine estates produce small volumes
Large businesses
- J Garcia Carrion
- Felix Solis Avantis
- Perdon Ricard Groupe
- Miguel Torres SA
- Bodegas Martin Codas SA
Low domestic consumption - 20l per capita
- trend toward higher quality with DO status
World’s largest exporter in terms of volume
- average price per litre is the lowest of large exporters (half of Italy, fifth of France)
- world’s largest producer of bulk wine (55% of export)
Handful of super premium wines
- not a large investment market
Main export
- France, Germany, UK, China, USA
Proportion of bulk wine
55% of export
World’s largest bulk wine producer
Promotional body of Spanish wine
Foods and Wines from Spain
Export of Spanish wine
World’s largest exporter in terms of volume
- average price per litre is the lowest of large exporters (half of Italy, fifth of France)
- world’s largest producer of bulk wine (55% of export)
Main export
- France, Germany, UK, China, USA
Wine DOs in Galicia
Rías Baixas DO Ribeiro DO Ribeira Sacra DO Valdeorras DO Monterrei DO
Rías Baixas DO climate
Strong maritime climate
- high annual rainfall (1,700mm)
- problem of fungal diseases and rain before harvest
- significant vintage variation
Soil:
- sand over granite (free-draining)
Rías Baixas DO grape varieties
Albarino (95%) Loureira Treixadura Caino Blanco Souson (black) Caino Tinto (black)
Rías Baixas DO topography
Soil:
- sand over granite (free-draining)
Close to the Atlantic
Rías Baixas DO subzones
5 sub-zones
Val do Salnes
- coolest and wettest - high acidity
O Rosal
- along river Mino on border with Portugal (Vinho Verde)
- often blends Albarino, Loureira and Treixadura
Condado do Tea
- warmer, riper style, more peach, lower acidity
Ribeira do Ulla
- inexpensive wines
Soutomaior
- smallest
Rías Baixas DO producers
Cooperative Bodegas Martin Codax
Pazo de Senorans
Palacio de Fefinanes
Rías Baixas DO general
In Galicia
Replanted with Palomino after Phylloxera
Significant improvements in quality - quick raise of popularity
Albarino
mostly in Rias Baixas
Well suited to damp climate (thick skins - less prone to rot)
Early to mid-ripening
High in acidity, medium- (medium) body, medium alcohol, aroma of apple, lemon, grapefruit, peach sometimes floral
Usuallly made as single varietal
Sometimes blended with Loureira, Treixadura, Caino Blanco
Loureira
occasional blending partner for Albarino
early ripening, medium+ acidity, citrus, pear, floral, herbal notes
Trellising in Rias Baixas
Pergola (parral) remains popular
- trained high to promote circulations under canopy
Now common VSP for mechanization
Winemaking in Rias Baixas
Generally protective
- few hours of skin maceration
- cool ferment in steel
- may have malo in cool years
- often stored on lees
- few premium producers store in oak
Spanish term for sur lie
sobre lias