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Cosmetology! > Ch 20 > Flashcards

Ch 20 Flashcards

1
Q

_____ give you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern, thereby
offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.
a. Chemical hair softening
b. Chemical texture services
c. Natural hair services
d. Alternative texture services

A

b. Chemical texture services

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2
Q 
Without a thorough understanding of \_\_\_\_\_, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and
harm their clients and themselves. 
a.  chemistry 
b.  immunology 
c.  color theory 
d.  branding
A

a. chemistry

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3
Q 
What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the
hair from damage? 
a.  Hair shaft 
b.  Cuticle 
c.  Cortex 
d.  Medulla
A

b. Cuticle

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4
Q 
Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible
strength and elasticity of human hair? 
a.  Hair shaft 
b.  Cuticle 
c.  Cortex 
d.  Medulla
A

c. Cortex

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5
Q

Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?

a. Hair shaft
b. Cuticle
c. Cortex
d. Medulla

A

d. Medulla

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6
Q 
The term  pH is an abbreviation used for potential \_\_\_\_\_, and the symbol pH represents the quantity of
\_\_\_\_\_ ions in solution. 
a.  hydrogen; hydrogen 
b.  hydrogen; oxygen 
c.  oxygen; oxygen 
d.  oxygen; nitrogen
A

a. hydrogen; hydrogen

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7
Q 
The \_\_\_\_\_ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen
ions it contains. 
a.  oxygen content 
b.  pH scale 
c.  salinity 
d.  radioactivity level
A

b. pH scale

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8
Q

The range of numbers used in the pH scale is _____.

a. 0 to 5
b. 0 to 7
c. 0 to 10
d. 0 to 14

A

d. 0 to 14

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9
Q

Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to _____.

a. expand and harden the shaft
b. harden and close the shaft
c. swell and set the shaft
d. soften and swell the shaft

A

d. soften and swell the shaft

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10
Q 
In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical
solution that is \_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  slightly alkaline 
b.  mildly acidic 
c.  strongly acidic 
d.  highly alkaline
A

d. highly alkaline

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11
Q

What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?

a. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and square bonds
b. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and hydrogen bonds
c. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and oxygen
d. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds

A

d. Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds

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12
Q

Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?

a. Amino acids
b. Peptide bonds
c. Polypeptide chains
d. Keratin proteins

A

a. Amino acids

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13
Q 
Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains,
to form a polypeptide chain? 
a.  Amino acids
b.  Peptide bonds 
c.  Polypeptide chains 
d.  Keratin proteins
A

b. Peptide bonds

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14
Q

What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end-to-end like beads?

a. Amino acids
b. Peptide bonds
c. Polypeptide chains
d. Keratin proteins

A

d. Keratin proteins

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15
Q

The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side
bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are _____.
a. disulfide, trisulfide, and hydrogen
b. disulfide, salt, and hydrogen
c. disulfide, salt, and oxygen
d. disulfide, chlorine, and hydrogen

A

b. disulfide, salt, and hydrogen

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16
Q

What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur-type chains are joined together?

a. Disulfide bonds
b. Peptide bonds
c. Keratin bonds
d. Amino acids

A

a. Disulfide bonds

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17
Q

Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative
and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in pH?
a. Disulfide bonds
b. Salt bonds
c. Hydrogen bonds
d. Keratin proteins

A

b. Salt bonds

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18
Q

Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and
positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____.
a. stretched
b. dried
c. softened
d. styled

A

b. dried

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19
Q

_____ is a two-step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping
the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
a. Cascade curling
b. Chemical texture service
c. Permanent waving
d. Temporary waving

A

c. Permanent waving

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20
Q

What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?

a. The size of the rod
b. The length of the hair
c. The texture of the hair
d. The color of the hair

A

a. The size of the rod

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21
Q 
In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the
\_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  long rods 
b.  hair length 
c.  sectioning 
d.  wrapping method
A

d. wrapping method

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22
Q 
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called
\_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  rearranging 
b.  normalization 
c.  reduction 
d.  alkaline
A

c. reduction

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23
Q

In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _____.

a. hydrogen
b. oxygen
c. sodium
d. carbon

A

a. hydrogen

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24
Q

What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving?

a. Ammonia water
b. Hydrogen peroxide
c. Thioglycolic acids
d. Hydrogen acids

A

c. Thioglycolic acids

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25
Q 
The \_\_\_\_\_ of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the
reducing agent, or thio. 
a.  durability 
b.  shelf-life 
c.  strength 
d.  concentration
A

c. strength

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26
Q

The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _____.

a. ammonium thioglycolate
b. hydrogen thioglycolate
c. alkaline acids
d. glyceryl monothioglycolate

A

a. ammonium thioglycolate

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27
Q

What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?

a. Ammonium thioglycolate
b. Degree of alkalinity
c. Amount used
d. Length of the hair

A

b. Degree of alkalinity

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28
Q

Alkaline waves, also known as _____, were developed in 1941.

a. weak waves
b. strong waves
c. cold waves
d. hot waves

A

c. cold waves

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29
Q

Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____.

a. 4.5 and 5.5
b. 6.0 and 7.0
c. 9.0 and 9.6
d. 10.0 and 11.0

A

c. 9.0 and 9.6

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30
Q

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?

a. Glyceryl monothioglycolate
b. Ammonium thioglycolic
c. Sodium hydroxide
d. Sodium hydrochloride

A

a. Glyceryl monothioglycolate

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31
Q

All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _____.

a. conditioner
b. prewrap
c. stabilizer
d. activator

A

d. activator

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32
Q

Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between _____.

a. 5.5 and 6.5
b. 7.8 and 8.2
c. 9.0 and 10.0
d. 10.1 and 10.5

A

b. 7.8 and 8.2

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33
Q 
Modern acid waves are actually \_\_\_\_\_ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral
pH.
a.  weaker 
b.  stronger 
c.  acid-balanced 
d.  alkaline-balanced
A

c. acid-balanced

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34
Q

Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____.

a. processing
b. conditioning
c. neutralizing
d. formulation

A

a. processing

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35
Q 
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are
\_\_\_\_\_ waves. 
a.  stabilized 
b.  endothermic 
c.  exothermic 
d.  acid
A

b. endothermic

36
Q

_____ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that
there is very little odor associated with their use.
a. Ammonia-free
b. Endothermic
c. Exothermic
d. Acid-balanced

A

a. Ammonia-free

37
Q

It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia-free does not necessarily mean _____.

a. acid-free
b. heat-free
c. odor-free
d. damage-free

A

d. damage-free

38
Q 
What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the
primary reducing agent? 
a.  Endothermic 
b.  Exothermic 
c.  Ammonia-free 
d.  Thio-free
A

d. Thio-free

39
Q

_____ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfites, considered very weak, and are usually
marketed as body waves or alternative waves.
a. Endothermic
b. Exothermic
c. Ammonia-free
d. Low-pH

A

d. Low-pH

40
Q 
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair,
within the first \_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  5–10 minutes 
b.  10–15 minutes 
c.  15–20 minutes 
d.  hour
A

a. 5–10 minutes

41
Q

Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _____.

a. underprocessed
b. overprocessed
c. underneutralized
d. tinted

A

b. overprocessed

42
Q

Overprocessed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including

breakage.
a. shorter
b. straighter
c. curlier
d. tinted

A

b. straighter

43
Q 
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is
called \_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  sectioning 
b.  rinsing 
c.  thio neutralization 
d.  normalization
A

c. thio neutralization

44
Q

What is the most common neutralizer?

a. Sodium chloride
b. Chlorine
c. Hydrogen peroxide
d. Oxygen

A

c. Hydrogen peroxide

45
Q

What is the most common type of perm rod?

a. Straight rods
b. Curved rods
c. Soft bender rods
d. Concave rods

A

d. Concave rods

46
Q

What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area?

a. Convex rods
b. Straight rods
c. Conventional rods
d. Spiral rods

A

b. Straight rods

47
Q 
What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter
along the entire length of the rod? 
a.  Straight rods 
b.  Curved rods 
c.  Soft bender rods 
d.  Concave rods
A

c. Soft bender rods

48
Q

_____, also known as circle rods, are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform
diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop.

a. Loop rods
b. Curved rods
c. Soft bender rods
d. Concave rods

A

a. Loop rods

49
Q

The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand
of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends.
a. single flat wrap
b. double flat wrap
c. bookend wrap
d. spiral wrap

A

b. double flat wrap

50
Q

The _____ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand.

a. single flat wrap
b. double flat wrap
c. bookend wrap
d. spiral wrap

A

a. single flat wrap

51
Q

The _____ uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.

a. single flat wrap
b. double flat wrap
c. bookend wrap
d. spiral wrap

A

c. bookend wrap

52
Q

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____.

a. subsections
b. base sections
c. parts
d. panels

A

d. panels

53
Q

In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called _____.

a. rod sections
b. base sections
c. outer sections
d. placements

A

b. base sections

54
Q 
\_\_\_\_ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at
which the hair is wrapped. 
a.  Base wrapping 
b.  Base placement 
c.  Base direction 
d.  Base sections
A

b. Base placement

55
Q

Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional _____.

a. sectioning of hair
b. stress and tension on hair
c. increased volume
d. curl patterns

A

b. stress and tension on hair

56
Q

_____ minimizes stress and tension on the hair.

a. Base placement
b. On-base placement
c. Half off-base placement
d. Off-base placement

A

c. Half off-base placement

57
Q

The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as _____.

a. wrapping point
b. rod direction
c. diagonal technique
d. base direction

A

d. base direction

58
Q

The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are _____.

a. flat and spiral
b. croquignole and even
c. spiral and perpendicular
d. croquignole and spiral

A

d. croquignole and spiral

59
Q

In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric

layers.
a. scalp to the ends
b. longest to the shortest
c. ends to the scalp
d. shortest to the longest

A

c. ends to the scalp

60
Q

In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which
causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod.
a. spiral perm wrap
b. croqiognole perm wrap
c. basic permanent wrap
d. curvature permanent wrap

A

a. spiral perm wrap

61
Q

What is another name for the double-rod wrap technique?

a. Piggyback wrap
b. Straight wrap
c. Spiral wrap
d. Weave technique

A

a. Piggyback wrap

62
Q

The _____, also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel
move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases.
a. basic permanent wrap
b. curvature permanent wrap
c. spiral perm wrap
d. weave technique

A

a. basic permanent wrap

63
Q

Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?

a. Basic permanent wrap
b. Curvature permanent wrap
c. Spiral perm wrap
d. Weave technique

A

b. Curvature permanent wrap

64
Q 
Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow
of the hair, in which wrapping pattern? 
a.  Weave technique 
b.  Bricklay permanent wrap 
c.  Basic permanent wrap 
d.  Straight wrap set
A

b. Bricklay permanent wrap

65
Q 
What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using
zigzag partings to divide base areas? 
a.  Basic permanent wrap 
b.  Curvature permanent wrap 
c.  Spiral perm wrap 
d.  Weave technique
A

d. Weave technique

66
Q

Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _____.

a. porosity
b. abrasions
c. disorders
d. tightness

A

b. abrasions

67
Q

Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for _____ and will not hold a curl.

a. color services
b. a haircut
c. permanent waving
d. wig fitting

A

c. permanent waving

68
Q

_____, often found in home haircoloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven
curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
a. Peroxide
b. Waving solution
c. Ammonia
d. Metallic salts

A

d. Metallic salts

69
Q

What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form?

a. Texturizing
b. Permanent waving
c. Chemical softening
d. Chemical hair relaxing

A

d. Chemical hair relaxing

70
Q

_____ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows.

a. Fluidity
b. Viscosity
c. Liquidity
d. Movement

A

b. Viscosity

71
Q

_____ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing.

a. Permanent waving
b. Heat styling
c. Japanese thermal straighteners
d. Chinese thermal straighteners

A

c. Japanese thermal straighteners

72
Q

What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?

a. Hydrogen ion
b. Keratin ion
c. Peroxide ion
d. Lithium ion

A

a. Hydrogen ion

73
Q

Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with _____.

a. conditioning solutions
b. color shampoos
c. thio relaxers
d. normalizing solutions

A

c. thio relaxers

74
Q

Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n) _____.

a. normalization bond
b. acidic bond
c. lanthionine bond
d. amino bond

A

c. lanthionine bond

75
Q

Which relaxer contains only one component and is used without mixing?

a. Neutralizing relaxers
b. Metal hydroxide relaxers
c. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers
d. Calcium hydroxide relaxers

A

b. Metal hydroxide relaxers

76
Q

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _____.

a. metal relaxers
b. no-lye relaxers
c. lye relaxers
d. medium relaxers

A

c. lye relaxers

77
Q

Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and sold as no mix–no lye relaxers?

a. Potassium hydroxide relaxers
b. Sodium hydroxide relaxers
c. Ammonium thio relaxers
d. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers

A

a. Potassium hydroxide relaxers

78
Q

Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _____.

a. guanidine hydroxide relaxers
b. ammonium thioglycolate
c. no-lye relaxers
d. potassium hydroxide relaxers

A

a. guanidine hydroxide relaxers

79
Q

What is a hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?

a. No-base relaxer
b. Base cream relaxer
c. Cream relaxer
d. Metal hydroxide relaxer

A

a. No-base relaxer

80
Q 
The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of
\_\_\_\_\_. 
a.  lanthionization 
b.  hydroxide 
c.  ammonia 
d.  coatings
A

b. hydroxide

81
Q

During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _____.

a. sufficiently relaxed
b. insufficiently relaxed
c. normalized
d. overprocessed

A

b. insufficiently relaxed

82
Q 
Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hair’s natural pH and should be used after a
hydroxide relaxer? 
a.  Lanthionization solution 
b.  Natural lotion 
c.  Swelling cream 
d.  Normalizing lotion
A

d. Normalizing lotion

83
Q

Keratin straightening treatments work by _____ in a semi-permanent manner.

a. flat ironing
b. fixing the keratin in place
c. breaking side bonds
d. neutralizing hydrogen bonds

A

b. fixing the keratin in place

84
Q

A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a _____.

a. permanent wave
b. soft curl permanent
c. full curl permanent
d. relaxer retouch

A

b. soft curl permanent

85
Q 
Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant
area? 
a.  Back of the head 
b.  Front hairline 
c.  Scalp area 
d.  Side area
A

a. Back of the head

Cosmetology! (33 decks)

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