Ch. 15 Chemical Texture Services Flashcards
Acid-Balanced Waves
perms with 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they do not require the added heat of a hairdryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves; always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using
Alkaline Waves
also known as cold waves; have pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process without the addition of heat according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Ammonia-Free Waves
perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia so there is very little odor
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Base Control
perm rod’s position in relation to its base section; determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base Cream
also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing process
Base Direction
angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
Base Placement
refers to the rod’s position in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base Relaxers
relaxers that require a separate application of a base cream before a relaxer application; applied on the entire scalp, next to the entire hairline, the nape of the neck, and the top and back of the ears
Base Sections
subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is typically placed on each base section
Basic Wrap
also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod
Bookend Wrap
perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope, eliminates excess paper and can be used with short rods or very short hair lengths
Bricklay Wrap
perm wrap similar to actual bricklaying technique; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and blend the hair’s flow
Calcium Hydroxide
or Ca(OH)2 active ingredient in a no-lye based relaxer; pH level of a no-lye relaxer is typically lower than a lye-based one; often associated with dryer hair
Chemical Hair Relaxing
process or service that permanently rearranges curly hair’s structure into a straighter or smoother form
Chemical Texture Services
hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Chemical Relaxers
product that removes curl or wave, leaving hair smooth or straight
Concave Rods
perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center increasing to a larger diameter on the ends
Double Flat Wrap
perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the hair’s base panel (subsection) being wrapped
Croquignole Wrap Technique
perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers
Double-Rod Wrap
also known as piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction
Endothermic Waves
perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hairdryer
End Papers
also known as end wraps or perm papers; thin, absorbent papers that control the hair’s ends when winding hair on perm rods
Exothermic Waves
create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)
main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
Half Off-Base Placement
base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section
Hydroxide Neutralization
acid–alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
Hydroxide Relaxers
used to relax the hair; contains a very strong alkali with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
Keratin-Based Smoothing Treatments
also called Brazilian keratin treatments, semipermanent treatment that smooths curly and wavy hair textures and eliminates frizz for up to 12 weeks
Lanthionization
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond
Loop Rod
also known as circle rod; tool that is usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the rod’s entire length
Low-pH Waves
perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
Lye Relaxers
also known as sodium hydroxide or caustic soda; used to break the disulfide bonds and loosen curls
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) that is combined with oxygen and hydrogen
No-Base Relaxers
relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
Normalizing Lotion
conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair’s natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo for hydroxide relaxers
Off-Base Placement
base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below base section’s center so the rod is positioned completely off its base
On-Base Placement
base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base
Panels
perm sections; size, shape, and direction vary based on wrapping patterns
Partial Perm
permanent waves that curl only specific areas of the head
Permanent Waving
adds wave or curl to the hair; also used to loosen curls; two-step process whereby the hair undergoes 1) a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods the hair then undergoes and 2) a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
Relaxer Retouch
application for hair that has received a chemical relaxer service
Single Flat Wrap
perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the base panel of hair
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers
also known as lye relaxer or caustic soda; used to break the disulfide bonds and loosen curls
Soft Bender Rods
also known as flexible foam rod; a tool about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the rod’s entire length
Soft Curl Permanent
also called chemical curl reformation service; this thio-based chemical process loosens very curly hair into larger soft curls or waves
Spiral Perms
utilize the spiral wrap technique in which hair is wrapped around the rods vertically until it fills the length of each rod like stripes on a candy; as long as the angle remains constant, any overlap will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair
Spiral Wrap Technique
used in spiral perms; the hair is wrapped around the rods vertically until it fills each rod’s length like stripes on a candy cane
Straight Rods
perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area
Thio-Free Waves
perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine
Thio Neutralization
relies on an oxidation process to stop the action of the relaxer solution and rebuild the hair into its new form
Thio Relaxers
use reduction and oxidation to break the disulfide bonds and then reform them to a more relaxed hair texture, use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
True Acid Waves
have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves
Virgin Relaxer
application used for hair that has not had a previous chemical relaxer service
