Burgundy Flashcards
Regional Appellations for Burgundy
Bourgogne AOP
Bourgogne Aligoté AOP
Bourgogne Mousseux AOP
Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains AOP
Coteaux Bourguignons AOP
Crémant de Bourgogne AOP
Style of wines produced under Bourgogne AOP
Rouge, Blanc, Rosé
Style of wines produced for Coteaux Bourguignons AOP
Rouge & Rosé
List the Chablis and the Yonne Départements
Petit Chablis AOP
Chablis AOP
Chablis Grand Cru AOP
Irancy AOP
Saint-Bris AOP
Name of AOP in the Yonne department that produces rouge?
Irancy
Beaunois
“Beaunois”— Chardonnay from Beaune
Beurot
Beurot (Pinot Gris) is permitted in many appellations as a minor grape for red blends but is rarely encountered
Burgundy AOP system consists of a four-tier hierarchy of appellations. What are they?
régionale, village, premier (1er) cru, and grand cru
Total production for Regionale wines in Burgundy?
Régionale wines comprise about 50% of production,
Total production for Grand Cru wines from Burgundy?
Grand Cru appellations, located only in the Côte d’Or and Chablis, account for less than 2% of the total production of Burgundy.
Dividing line between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune
The communes of Corgoloin and Ladoix-Serrigny
Regional Capitol for the Cote d’Or
Dijon
Côte Chalonnaise gets its name from what?
The city of Chalon-sur-Saône in the Saône-et-Loire département
Côte Chalonnaise lies on the western edge of what river?
Saône River Valley
Next to Chablis, what is the second white wine producing area in Burgundy?
The Mâconnais is one of the Région Bourgogne’s largest production areas for white wines, second only to Chablis.
sélection massale
sélection massale—a field selection rather than a clonal selection—which creates diversity in the vineyard and, it is believed, complexity in the final wine.
Auhorities rechristened a little-used regional appellation, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire AOP, as ____________ AOP in an attempt to revitalize it.
Auhorities rechristened a little-used regional appellation, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire AOP, as “Coteaux Bourguignons AOP” in an attempt to revitalize it.
Coteaux Bourguignons vs Bourgogne AOP
Coteaux Bourguignons shares the same broad dimensions as Bourgogne AOP, but its regulations allow the inclusion of Gamay in red blends. Inexpensive blended white and rosé wines are also authorized for the appellation.
Four lieux-dits were approved in the 1990s as geographic designations for Bourgogne AOP: ?
La Chapelle Notre Dame,
Le Chapitre,
Côte St-Jacques,
Montrecul.
Red and rosé wines, modeled on the field blends of the past, are produced throughout the Côte d’Or and southern Burgundy as ____________ AOP.
Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains AOP.
Varietal make up of Bourgogne Passe-Toute-Grains AOP
Pinot Noir and Gamay account for a minimum 30% and 15% of the blend, respectively, and the two grapes must be vinified together. Red Passe-Tout-Grains is far more common than rosé.
Two sparkling AOPs of Burgundy?
Crémant de Bourgogne and Bourgogne Mousseux are Burgundy’s two sparkling wine AOPs.
Bourgogne Mousseux
Bourgogne Mousseux is an older, rare appellation reserved exclusively for sparkling reds produced via the traditional method—in fact, once the first sparkling wines appeared in Burgundy in the 1820s, it was not uncommon to see sparkling red renditions of many of the famous crus, like Clos de Vougeot or Chambertin.
Cremant de Bourgogne
Crémant de Bourgogne debuted in 1975 as an AOP for hand-harvested, traditional method white and rosé sparkling wines, principally produced from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Crémant styles may be made throughout Burgundy, but much production is concentrated in and around the commune of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise, where Burgundy sparkling wines were born in the early 19th century.
In the villages of the Côte d’Or, vineyards graded simply as village (rather than premier cru or grand cru) are generally located on a commune’s ______ side, where the angle of slope is slight, or along the far _______ fringe, adjacent to forest-capped ridgelines—where both elevation and slope are far more significant. Between these extremes lie the premiers and grands crus.
In the villages of the Côte d’Or, vineyards graded simply as village (rather than premier cru or grand cru) are generally located on a commune’s “eastern” side, where the angle of slope is slight, or along the far “western” fringe, adjacent to forest-capped ridgelines—where both elevation and slope are far more significant. Between these extremes lie the premiers and grands crus.
How many grand cru vineyards are there in the Côte d’Or ?
32
Unlike premier cru wines, grand cru wines in the Côte d’Or must be produced solely from the single, stated vineyard. True or False
True.
For example: A blend of Chambertin AOP and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze AOP (two neighboring grand cru appellations in Gevrey-Chambertin) could claim neither AOP as its origin on the label, just as a blend of Gevrey-Chambertin AOP and Vosne-Romanée AOP fruit loses the right to display either appellation on the label. In these two cases, the wines would be “declassified” as Gevrey-Chambertin AOP (with the right to a generic premier cru geographic designation) and Bourgogne AOP, respectively..
How many premiers crus are there in Chablis?
40 premiers crus
Kimmeridgian marl
A mixture of limestone and clay laced with millions of oyster fossils, Kimmeridgian marl is visible in hillside outcrops around the village of Chablis, and soils derived from it are believed to produce higher quality wines.
Portlandien limestone
On the elevated plateaus above the hillsides Kimmeridgian marl is buried under Portlandien limestone, a younger rock strata and a purer form of limestone. Petit Chablis, typically the simplest wine, is produced from these cooler, wind-exposed sites situated on Portlandien limestone.
Name of river that runs through Chablis?
Serein river
The village wines are actually produced from ____ different communes, and Chablis’ 40 premier cru geographic designations, further grouped into ____ major premiers crus, are located on hillsides on both right and “left” banks of the Serein.
The village wines are actually produced from “17” different communes, and Chablis’ 40 premier cru geographic designations, further grouped into “17” major premiers crus, are located on hillsides on both right and left banks of the Serein.
Montée de Tonnerre and Fourchaume lie on which side of the Serein river?
Right side
Vaillons and Montmains lie on which side of the Serein River?
Left side
Chablis Grand Cru AOP has seven geographic designations: ?
Les Clos,
Vaudésir,
Valmur,
Preuses,
Blanchot,
Bougros,
Grenouilles.
La Moutonne
An eighth parcel in Chablis Grand Cru, La Moutonne—a monopole of Domaine Long-Depaquit overlapping Vaudésir and Preuses—is permitted by the INAO for usage on labels but not listed as an official geographic designation.)
A red wine appellation for light, Pinot Noir-based reds in the Yonne department.
Irancy AOP
Only Sauvignon Blanc appellation in Burgundy.
St-Bris AOP
argillaceous limestone
A soil mixture of limestone and clay, but if the limestone content is higher than it is argillaceous limestone.
marl or calcareous clay.
A soil mixture of limestone and clay, but there is more clay in the soil than it is known as marl or calcareous clay.
Cote de Nuits stretches from where to where?
Côte de Nuits stretches from the suburbs of Dijon in the north to the hamlet of Corgoloin in the south.
AOPs of Cote de Nuits
Marsannay AOP Fixin AOP Gevrey-Chambertin AOP Morey-Saint-Denis AOP Chambolle-Musigny AOP Vougeot AOP Vosne-Romanée AOP Nuits-Saint-Georges AOP
AOPs of Cote de Nuits that allow white wine making
Marsannay, Fixin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vougeot Nuits-Saint-Georges
Total number of grand cru vineyards in Cote de Nuits
24
Note*: All 24 produce red wine; one—Musigny—may also produce white wines.
Grand Cru vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin
Le Chambertin Chambertin Clos de Bèze Mazis-Chambertin Latricières-Chambertin Ruchottes-Chambertin Griottes-Chambertin Chapelle-Chambertin Charmes-Chambertin
Highly acclaimed domaines based in Gevrey
Armand Rousseau, Claude Dugat, and Jean-Marie Fourrier
Burgundy’s vineyards span four French départements. What are they?
Yonne, Côte d’Or, Saône-et-Loire, and Rhône
Why is it called Beaujolais
named for the commune of Beaujeu
How much wine does Beaujolais produce?
Beaujolais typically produces about one-third of the wines of Burgundy.
What is Burgundy’s latitude?
Burgundy is positioned between 46-48° latitude; the 47th parallel runs right through Volnay
Most planted grape in Burgundy?
Chardonnay is Burgundy’s most planted grape, comprising almost half of the planted land in Burgundy.
Pinot Beurot
Pinot Gris in Burgundy
three rare varieties found in the Yonne département:
César, Tressot, and Sacy
Cesar
César, a tannic red grape of probable German origin, gives strength and longevity to basic Pinot blends and the reds of Irancy, yet it is only permitted as a minor component in AOP wines.
Tressot
Tressot, a red variety dating from at least the 14th century, descends from Duras and Petite Verdot—rare parentage for the Burgundy region.
Sacy
Sacy (Saint-Pourçain’s Tressalier grape), a variety authorized only for sparkling wines in Burgundy. Sacy, like Gamay, Aligoté, Chardonnay, and Melon de Bourgogne, is a Pinot x Gouais Blanc progeny.
Bourgogne Aligoté AOP
A separate appellation for varietal wines produced solely from the white Aligoté grape. Wines from the appellation are often—but not always—simple and refreshing, and the grape frequently exhibits high acidity.
Most village vineyards, all but one premier cru vineyard, and every grand cru appellation in the Côte d’Or is located to the west of the Route Nationale 74—now the D974—a two-lane highway that runs roughly parallel to the Côte d’Or’s vineyards. True or False?
True
Climat
Climat: A Burgundian term used to denote “a parcel of vines defined and named to be associated with the wines it produces”; in other words, a single vineyard in Burgundy.
Who regulates the climats in Burgundy and how many are there?
The word climat has been regulated by the INAO for use throughout Burgundy since 1935. There are over 1,200 climats in Burgundy today.
Lieu-dit
Lieu-dit: Nearly synonymous with climat, a lieu-dit is a named single vineyard, and forms one contiguous parcel within a single commune. Frequently, the names of lieux-dits recall historic uses of the land or former owners.
The term “cru”
Cru: An imprecise term, cru is used both to denote quality and to indicate a delimited place; depending on the region and the wine in question the term can carry legal weight or simply evoke popular meaning.
Parcel
Parcel: A parcel is a single contiguous holding within a vineyard, owned entirely by one grower. Often, domaines may hold several different parcels in the same climat; for instance, Domaine Leflaive owns three separate parcels in the grand cru Bâtard-Montrachet.
Clos
Clos: A clos indicates a vineyard enclosed within a stone wall. While there is temptation to assume that these walls were built with foresight of the vineyard’s exactingly prime location, they are basically medieval fences, originally erected to keep animals away from the vines. Today, Clos de Vougeot is the largest and most famous example. In some, like Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, the walls have long since fallen but the name remains.
Term “village” in Burgundy
Village, indicating one of the many small towns that dot the Burgundy landscape or the wines produced in village appellations.
Term “commune” in Burgundy
A commune is an administrative unit of local government encapsulating a town and its immediate surroundings.
Term “hamlet” in Burgundy
A hamlet is the smallest form of settlement, often included administratively within the commune of a larger neighboring town. For example, Puligny-Montrachet is a village appellation and a commune, whereas Blagny is a village appellation and a hamlet located within the Puligny-Montrachet commune.
The two IGP zones in the Cote d’Or.
Coteaux de l’Auxois and Sainte-Marie-la-Blanche.
Coteaux de l’Auxois covers what area?
The Coteaux de l’Auxois IGP covers much of the Côte d’Or département north and west of the Hautes-Côtes appellations and does not overlap any AOPs of the Côte d’Or.
Sainte-Marie-la-Blanche IGP covers what area?
Sainte-Marie-la-Blanche IGP is a much smaller appellation; it sits to the east of the D974 and the Côte de Beaune. It is adjacent to Bourgogne AOP, but they do not overlap. Thus, there is no IGP that covers the actual Côte d’Or winegrowing region.
An idea espoused by Henri Jayer and taken to extremes in the early 1990s by winemaking consultant _______, cold maceration (cold soak) occurs prior to fermentation.
Guy Accad
Explain cold soaking
Red grapes are crushed and kept on their skins at cool temperatures (10-14° C) for days—sometimes a week or more—which, alongside prudent sulfur dioxide additions, preclude the onset of fermentation.
Etienne Grivot and cold soaking
Etienne Grivot (of Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne Romanee) began using the technique in 1984 and accelerated its practice during the Accad era of the late ’80s and early ’90s; he believes a cold maceration of 5-7 days improves a wine’s capacity to age and renders organic acids more stable. Others see it as an intrusive technique: Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac views cold soaking as “an element of convergence, when we are really trying to make wines that are different.”
Explain Carbonic Maceration
To induce carbonic maceration, a winemaker will seal whole clusters or whole berries of red grapes in a closed vat and pump in carbon dioxide. In the absence of oxygen, intact whole berries undergo a short intracellular fermentation, metabolizing individual stores of glucose and malic acid to produce alcohol and carbon dioxide without the aid of yeast.
What happens to tannins and anthocyanins during carbonic maceration?
During carbonic maceration, tannins and anthocyanins move from the skins to the flesh of each grape, giving the juice color. The grape can develop an alcohol level of approximately 2% before it dies and the cellular activity ceases. The grapes may then rupture due to an internal build-up of carbon dioxide, or the winemaker may simply press the juice off the skins; either way, the wine ferments to dryness with the normal activity of yeast.
How many communes are in Burgundy?
There are 53 communal appellations which represent 36% of total production. Examples include Meursault, Puligny Montrachet, Volnay and Gevrey Chambertin. The communal or village name may be followed by the name of an individual vineyard, e,g, Meursault Clos de la Barre, Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles. Many villages have double barrelled names because they have hyphenated the name of their most famous vineyard: thus Gevrey has added Chambertin and Chambolle has added Musigny.
Gevrey Chambertin Premiers Crus:
Gevrey Chambertin Premiers Crus:
Combe au Moine
les Cazetiers
Estournelles St Jacques
Clos St Jacques
Aux Combottes.
Morey St. Denis
Grand Crus:
Morey St. Denis
Grand Crus:
Clos.St-Denis
Bonnes Mares
Clos de la Roche
Clos des Lambrays
Clos de Tart
Morey St. Denis Premier Crus:
Morey St. Denis Premier Crus:
Les Ruchots
La Bussière
La Faconnières
Chambolle Musigny
Grand Crus:
Chambolle Musigny
Grand Crus:
Musigny
Bonnes Mares
Chambolle Musigny Premiers Crus:
Chambolle Musigny Premiers Crus: Les Amoureuses Les Beaux-Bruns Les Cras Les Fuées Les Véroilles
Vougeot
Grand Cru
Vougeot
Grand Cru:
Clos du Vougeot
Vosne Romanée
Grand Crus:
Vosne Romanée Grand Crus: Romanée-Conti La Tâche Richebourg Romanée Saint-Vivant Romanée La Grande Rue
Vosne Romanée Premiers Crus:
Vosne Romanée Premiers Crus: Aux Raignots Les Chaumes Les Suchots Aux Brûlées Les Beaux Monts Combe Brûlée
Flagey-Echézeaux (sold under name of Vosne Romanée)
Grands Crus:
Flagey-Echézeaux (sold under name of Vosne Romanée)
Grands Crus:
Echézeaux
Grands-Echézeaux
Nuits St Georges
Premier Crus:
Nuits St Georges Premier Crus: Les Cailles Les Vaucrains Les St Georges Aux Murgers Aux Boudots
Savigny-les-Beaune
Premier Crus:
Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Crus: Les Lavières Aux Vergelesses Les Narbantons Les Grands Liards Les Perrières Les Fourneux
Beaune
Premiers Crus:
Beaune Premiers Crus: Clos des Mouches Les Greves Les Perrières Clos du Roi Les Cras Les Bressandes
Pommard
Premiers Crus:
Pommard Premiers Crus: Les Epenots Les Jarollières Les Fremiers Les Charmots Les Combes Les Pézerolles
Volnay
Premier Crus:
Volnay Premier Crus: Champans Les Caillerets Les Angles Clos des Chênes Clos de la Pousse d'Or Les Pluchots La Gigotte
Semi-carbonic maceration
Semi-carbonic maceration is more common, and it is actually the more traditional technique in Beaujolais. Here, carbon dioxide is not added to the fermentation vat but produced naturally. Whole clusters at the bottom of the tank crush under the weight of those above and begin fermenting normally. As the carbon dioxide released by standard fermentation blankets the whole berries above, they begin to ferment internally. Typically, semi-carbonic maceration is conducted in an open vat.
Domaines de la Romanee-Conti and Dujac’s opinion on destemming?
Domaines de la Romanée-Conti and Dujac are high-profile practitioners of whole-cluster fermentation; depending on the site, both domaines may use higher proportions of clusters—up to 100%—in warm vintages, and lower percentages (70-80%) in cooler years.
What are the benefits of whole cluster fermentation in red wine making?
While winemakers’ opinions about the benefits of whole cluster differ, when expertly handled one typically achieves more aeration and cooler temperatures during fermentation, lighter color, slight carbonic notes, and firmer tannins in the final wine.
What are the benefits of destemming grapes before fermentations for red wine making?
Advocates of whole-berry fermentation, in which the grapes are de-stemmed but not crushed prior to fermentation, can achieve some of the same high-toned, floral, carbonic aromatic complexity that results from whole cluster, without risking the green tannins that can prevail if stems are not properly lignified. Stems can also harbor potassium, raising pH in the final wine.
How do vignerons in Burgundy ferment their white wine?
For white wines, Burgundy vignerons often press whole clusters without crushing the fruit. This produces a cleaner, less phenolic must with a slightly lower pH and fewer attendant dangers of oxidation.
Is chaptalization allowed in Burgundy?
Chaptalization—the addition of white (beet) sugar to increase alcohol content in a fermenting wine—is a common enrichment practice in Burgundy. If a vigneron chooses to chaptalize his or her wine, it is subject to the maximum alcohol levels stipulated in each AOC/P cahier des charges. Once added by rote at the beginning of fermentation, many producers now add sugar toward its conclusion, and often in multiple additions, performing a sort of “sweet spot” tasting.
Subtractive must enrichment technique
Burgundy winemakers now have a new tool available to them: subtractive must enrichment. The technique, illegal before 2009, allows the producer to remove water from the must to concentrate the remainder by a maximum factor of 10%.
Is acidification on wine in Burgundy allowed?
Acidification, like chaptalization, is also legal in Burgundy, provided it is declared and documented. In fact, despite recent hot vintages like 2003 or 2009—two years in which acidification was not uncommon—the need to acidify today is reduced from what it was in the 1980s and 1990s.
Why would a vineyard in Burgundy have high levels of potassium in its soil?
Years of heavy synthetic fertilizer use left high levels of potassium in the soil—potassium will raise pH in red wine macerations—and many growers acidified to combat it. As potassium levels slowly ebb with modern interest in soil health and organic viticulture, the need to acidify actually decreases.
Are you allowed to both acidify and chaptalize a wine in Burgundy?
NO
What affects can a winemaker have if they batonnage a wine too much?
bâtonnage can reduce reduction in barrel, but overuse may invite concerns of premox and produce an obvious leesy aromatic character.
What is the typical oak regimen for the different tiers from Burgundy?
An average vigneron may use the following percentages of new oak for red wines: 0-10% for Bourgogne AOP, 0-25% for a village wine, 25-50% for a premier cru, and 50-100% for a grand cru.
Favored cooperage in Bunrgundy
The favored cooperage of the Côte d’Or has long been François Frères, a local tonnellerie originally established in Saint-Romain.
feuillettes
feuillettes, which hold 132 liters of wine, remain the official unit of measurement for growers selling wine to négociants but are rare in actual wine production. Few coopers even make feuillettes today.
Why was around 1855 a difficult year for Chablis?
In that year a Marseille-Paris railway opened, providing a quick and efficient means of transporting cheap Midi wines to the French capital and beyond, while diminishing Chablis’ ability to compete.
Talk about the difficult times for Chablis.
The future looked grim: the 1880s brought the twofold devastation of powdery mildew (1886) and phylloxera (1887), and World War I summoned every available vigneron—and their horses—to the front. The high-yielding Sacy unseated Chardonnay in the region’s diminishing vineyards. Chablis suffered heavy German bombardment during World War II, and despite battlefield victory the 1945 vintage fell victim to frost.
Are frost prevention techniques used in Chablis?
Yes. New techniques of frost prevention arrived to shield vigilant growers’ vines, and the first tractors appeared in Chablis by the early 1950s.
What affect did mechanization do to the vineyard work in Chablis?
Mechanization made vineyard work and vineyard expansion easier; mechanical harvesters appeared in the early 1980s to further lighten the load. (Today nearly 95% of Chablis’ vineyards are harvested by machine!)
When did the expansion and elevated designations take place in Chablis?
Premiers crus were added to the basic Chablis AOP regulations in 1967, and the AOP boundaries were controversially enlarged to include another 1000 hectares in 1978 (including several new premiers crus).
How has the production level increased in Chablis?
In 1970, Chablis produced less than 20,000 hectoliters of wine; by 1982 the annual production reached 118,000 hl. In 2012, a modestly sized vintage, the three AOPs of Chablis recorded over 300,000 hl of wine from more than 5,000 ha of vines.
What exactly is Kimmeridgian?
“Kimmeridgian” refers to an age in the Upper Jurassic Epoch, occurring roughly 150-157 million years ago. Named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, UK, the Kimmeridgian rock stratum consists of crumbly, chalky marl (clay and limestone) and contains abundant Exogyra virgula fossils—the imprints of tiny oyster shells. Outcrops are visible on the hillsides of the Serein River Valley.
Where are Kimmeridgian and Portlandian soils found in Chablis?
On the ridges and plateaus surrounding the Serein River Valley the Kimmeridgian marl is buried beneath Portlandian limestone, a harder cap rock with less clay content.
What affects do Portlandian soils have in Chablis?
Portlandian limestone in Chablis lacks the multitudes of fossilized seashells that characterize Kimmeridgian marl, and it is younger, formed 130 million years ago. Portlandian soils—those that overlay Portlandian limestone—are sandier and thinner than Kimmeridgian soils.
When was Petit Chablis AOP established and how did they designate its location?
The Petit Chablis AOP, established in 1944, found a home for Chardonnay wines produced on the plateaus of Portlandian limestone-derived soils—often higher, colder, and wind-exposed areas.
Where are the grand cru vineyards located in Chablis?
Chablis’ best vineyards—the grands crus, numbering around 100 total hectares—are located on a two-kilometer stretch of hillsides just north of town, facing south and southwest in an arc alongside the Serein. A product of coincident Kimmeridgian soil and privileged aspect, the grand cru slopes are the region’s warmest, bathed in afternoon light and protected from cold north winds.
How are the grand cru vineyards in Chablis different than those found in the Cote d’Or?
Unlike the grands crus of the Côte d’Or, Chablis Grand Cru AOP is a single appellation, with seven official geographic designations: Blanchot, Les Clos, Valmur, Les Grenouilles, Vaudésir, Preuses, and Bougros.
Minimum ABV for Grand Cru AOP Chablis
11% for Chablis Grand Cru AOP
How is Grand Cru Chablis AOP harvested?
The grand cru climats are also the only vineyards routinely harvested by hand in the entire region—prices are commensurate with the added expense of labor, and much of the hillside is too steep for machines anyway.
What are the “major” premiers crus in Chablis on the Right Bank?
Right Bank: Berdiot, Côte de Vaubarousse, Fourchaume, Les Fourneaux, Mont de Milieu, Montée de Tonnerre, Vaucoupin
What are the “major” premiers crus in Chablis on the Left Bank?
Left Bank: Beauroy, Chaume de Talvat, Côte de Léchet, Côte de Jouan, Les Beauregards, Montmains, Vau de Vey, Vaillons, Vosgros, Vau Ligneau
Montée de Tonnerre
The southwest-facing Montée de Tonnerre, a stone’s throw across the narrow Vallée de Bréchain from Blanchot, is widely considered the top premier cru in Chablis, and in the right hands (Raveneau, Patrick Piuze, Billaud-Simon) it surpasses many less ambitious estates’ grand cru output.
How are the premier vineyards positioned on the left bank in Chablis?
On the left bank, the premier cru slopes usually face southeast, cradled in the hillsides of finger-like side valleys rather than alongside the Serein River itself.
What are the 2 most popular premier crus on the left bank of Chablis?
Vaillons and Montmains are the most important sites on the left bank.