Budding Types

Question 1

Chip Budding

Answer 1

• generally used on rootstock with small diameter stems about .5 to 1 in
• the bark on the rootstock does NOT need to be slipping
• common summer budding technique

1. a cut is made going downward and inward until it connects with the first cut
2. the cuts removed from the bud from the bud stick are made just as those in the stock
3. the lower cut is made about .25 in below the bud. a second cut is made about .5 in above the bud coming downward behind the bud and connecting with the first cut permitting the removal of the bud piece
4. the chip bud is inserted into the cut made in the rootstock

Question 2

Fall Budding

Answer 2

• budding occurs from mid-July to early-September, not in autumn
• a 1-year scion/2-year rootstock is generally produced
• called Summer Budding in the notes

Question 3

Flute Budding

(Ring Budding)

Answer 3

• a variation on Patch Budding
• patch going all the way or almost all the way around the rootstock
• scion and rootstock diameters have to be perfectly matched

Question 4

I-Budding

Answer 4

• sort of a cross between T-Budding and Patch Budding
• looks like a set of double doors opening and the patch going in the middle, then the doors closing over it
• done when the bark is too thick but dont want to use a patch bud

Question 5

Inverted T-Budding

(Inverted T Incision)

Answer 5

• a variation on the T-Bud
• is basiclly the same as a T-Bud, only inverted
• so the shorter cut allowing the flaps to open is at the bottom
• the bud polarity is not reversed however!
• used in areas that get lots of rain - helps shed the excess water

Question 6

June Budding

Answer 6

• budding that is done from May to early June
• produces a smaller budded plant with a 1-year scion/1-year rootstock
• faster production but usually results in smaller plant
• usually done where have long growing seasons

Question 7

Patch Budding

Answer 7

• a rectangluar patch of bark is completely removed from the rootstock and replaced with a patch of bark of the same size containing a bud of the cultivar to be propagated
• widely successful
• used on thick-barked species (walnuts and pecans) in whick T-budding sometimes gives poor results
• bark of BOTH rootstock and scion must be slipping easily
• but scion buds must still be dormant
• uses a special knives and tool - has to be much more precise

Question 8

Spring Budding

Answer 8

• budding that is done as soon as new seasonal growth occurs, in late March to early May, depending on location
• 1-year scion/2-year rootstock generally produced
• usually harvested fairly early - rush job
• requires least amount of time to produce
• only done when get long growing season
• quality usually not as good

Question 9

T-Budding

(Shield Budding)

Answer 9

• common budding type (becoming less common than chip bud)
• must be done with dormant scions and active rootstocks
• bark MUST be slipping

1. a verticel cut is made in the rootstock. a second shorter cut is made on the top of and perpendicular to the first cut. the knife is given a slight twist to open the two flaps of bark
2. a long cut is made underneith the bud then a short cut is made at the top of the bud, allowing the bud to be removed. the bud piece looks like a shield
3. the shield piece is inserted by pushing it downward under the two flaps of bark.
4. when wrapped, the bud must be left exposed.

Question 10

Top-Budding

(Topworking)

Answer 10

• the process of budding onto an existing rootstock with new scion material
• budding is confined to shoots less than 2.5 cm diameter, it can only be used to topwork younger trees or smaller shoots of older trees

Question 11

Wood-in vs Wood-out

Answer 11

• in T-budding, there are two methods of preparing the shield: with the wood-in or wood-out
• this refers to the sliver of wood just under the bark of the shield piece
• in budding certain species, such as maples and walnuts, success is usually obtained with wood-out buds