Beach Profiles Flashcards
Shingle Beach
Steep gradient (over 10 degrees) because waves easily flow through coarse, porous beach surface. Decreased effect of backwash erosion and increases formation of sediment into steep sloping back.
Sandy Beaches
Flatter ( less than 5 degrees) and wider. Smaller particles are evenly distributed and water takes longer to percolate into the sand so more sand is removed with the backwash.
What are ‘Ridges and Runnels’?
Parallel “hills and valleys” of sand found at the low water mark.
How are Ridges and Runnels formed?
Formed due to interaction of tides, currents and shallow beach/topography and so are often formed as breakpoint bars.
What are ‘Storm Beaches’?
A ridge of boulders and shingle found at the back of the beach.
How are Storm Beaches formed?
Formed as a result of large waves at high tides throwing large boulders and shingle to the back of the beach.
What are ‘Cusps’?
Semi circular depressions in the sand on the beaches surface.
How are Cusps formed?
Formed by waves breaking directly on the beach with a throng swash AND backwash.
What are ‘Ripples’?
Small ripple patterns in formed in the sand up the beach.
How are Ripples formed?
Formed as a result of wave and tidal movements.
What is a BEACH PLAN?
A beach plan is formed as a product of the angle at which waves approach a beach.
What are Drift Aligned beaches?
Drift aligned beaches are produced where waves break at an angle to the coast.
Features of Drift Aligned beaches
The swash: occurs at an angle
The backwash: Runs perpendicular to beach
As a result, material is transported along the beach via longshore drift.
What are Swash Aligned beaches?
Produced where the waves break in line (parallel) with the the coast. E.g. Hell’s Mouth.
Features of Swash Aligned beaches
Smoothly curved, concave beaches.
The beach face is orientated PARALLEL to the fronts of dominant waves.
