6. Roses and wall shrubs Flashcards

1
Q

Describe a ‘Floribunda’

A
  • Cluster-flowered Rose
  • Produces abundant clusters of flowers on its stems
  • The flowers are fairly flat and small, 5- 8 cm
  • Flower almost continuously from summer until autumn
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2
Q

Describe a ‘Hybrid tea’

A
  • Large flowered Roses
  • Appear singly or in threes on a long stem
  • Large blooms, ranging from 8- 13cm
  • Bloom intermittently, in three flushes from summer to late autumn
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3
Q

Rosa ‘City of London’

Floribunda

A
  • 80 x 75cm
  • Bears loosely formed rounded to flat, fragrant, light-pink flowers 8cm
  • Flowers from summer to autumn
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4
Q

Rosa ‘Mountbatten’

Floribunda

A
  • 1.3 x 0.9m

- Flowers look old-fashioned, pure yellow with modest scent

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5
Q

Rosa ‘Margaret Merrill’

Floribunda

A
  • 90 x 90cm (3 x 3 ft.).
  • Numerous, large white blooms are carried in small clusters all
    summer
  • Flowers are blush-tinted in the centre, with golden stamens, they open from elegant buds and carry a strong fragrance
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6
Q

Rosa ‘Royal William’

Hybrid tea

A
  • 75 x 60cm
    The flowers are a classic shape in bud and mature to look slightly flat and old-fashioned
  • Flowers are deep velvety red
  • Blooms open prolifically over a long season on neat, bushy growth
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7
Q

Rosa ‘Dawn Chorus’

Hybrid tea

A
  • 90cm x 50cm

- Deep orange blooms flushed with yellow at the base of each petal

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8
Q

Rosa ’Peace’

Hybrid tea

A
  • 200cm to 125 cm

- Elegant buds that open to large, pale yellow flowers with crimson edges

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9
Q

Planting considerations for Roses

A
  • Do not plant where roses have been grown previously
  • If replacing only one or two exchange the soil with some from a part of the garden where roses have not been grown
  • Roses may be bought bare-root or container grown
  • Bare-root can only be planted during the dormant season, November to February
  • Container grown can be planted at any time of year (except when the ground is frozen or during a drought)
  • Evaluate the planting site carefully before choosing a cultivar because there will be a rose that is suitable for nearly every situation
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10
Q

Site requirements for Roses

A
  • Sunny, sheltered
  • Good air circulation
  • Fertile soil of pH 6.5
  • A water retentive yet well drained soil
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11
Q

Planting of Roses

A
  • Plan - Choose sunny, well draining location
  • Pest/disease - Trim any damaged roots or shoots, flower buds
  • Water - Soak plant in a bucket of water
  • Setting out - Make a hole that is wide enough to accommodate the roots and deep enough so that the bud union is about 2.5cm below ground level
  • Plant - Position the rose in the centre of the hole and check that the planting depth. Backfill the hole, shaking the rose gently to settle the soil. Lightly firm the soil to avoid compacting it
  • Food - Add some garden compost or well-rotted manure, plus a general fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone to the planting hole
  • Water –Water the plant well but do not mulch until the following spring
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12
Q

Maintenance of Roses

A
  • Weed - Remove all weeds around the plants taking care not to disturb the roots
  • Water - Water new roses regularly during the first season -7 litres, each week
  • Feed - After pruning in March apply a handful of rose fertiliser (high in K) Fork it in very lightly. Repeat the application again June/July to encourage a second flush of flowers. Foliar feeding may be used for roses growing in containers
  • Support - Mulch after feeding in early spring with an 8cm of well-rotted farmyard manure or cocoa shells and bark chips. In autumn, shorten tall cultivars by about one quarter to prevent wind rock
  • Pest/disease - Aphids, rose black spot, powdery mildew. Remove all dead leaves from the soil around roses as these could be carrying diseases. Remove any suckers as soon as they appear. Remove dead flowers as soon as possible
  • Prune – Prune newly planted roses hard, to encourage vigorous growth. Roses in beds can be under-planted with low growing plants.
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13
Q

Damage caused by Black spot and method of spread

Fungi

A
  • Rapidly enlarging purplish or black patch appear on leaf
  • Leaf turns yellow around the spots and often drops
  • Small, black, scabby lesions may also appear on young stems
  • Vigour is reduced

Spread
• The fungus produces spores in the lesions and these spores spread in water to initiate new infections
• Wet conditions are required for the disease to build up
• The fungus spends the winter in resting structures on fallen leaves

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14
Q

Control of Black spot

A

Cultural
• Collect and destroy fallen leaves in the autumn
• Prune out all stem lesions in spring before leaves appear

Chemical
• Fungicides - tebuconazole

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15
Q

Damage caused by Powdery mildew and method of spread

Fungi

A
  • Purple, yellow, red spots on leaves
  • Fluffy white deposit over leaf surfaces – upper first, then lower
  • Leaves become stunted and shriveled, curl upwards
  • Infected flower buds frequently fail to open properly

Spread
• Airborne spores
• Once temperatures rise, spores are released

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16
Q

Control of powdery mildew

A

Cultural
• Mulching and watering (from below, avoid water on leaves)
• Prompt removal of infected shoots – don’t shake about
• Water soil through at the base - shouldn’t let soil dry out
• Resistant varieties
• Feed regularly to encourage strong growth (avoid too much nitrogen – this produces ‘soft’ growth which is prone to attack)

Chemical
• Fungicides - tebuconazole

17
Q

Pruning Rose bushes

A
  • Sharp secateurs, long-handled pruners, and a pruning saw essential
  • Always make a clean angled cut above a bud that faces in the direction of growth
  • Remove any dead, diseased and damaged wood, cutting back to diseases-free, white pith
  • Cut out any crossing or rubbing growth that might prevent air circulation
18
Q

Pruning of Hybrid tea roses

A
  • Shorten back the strongest remaining shoots to four to six buds 10-15cm
  • Shorten back less vigorous shoots to two to four buds 5-10cm from the base
  • Remove/Pull off suckers at the base
  • Dead head throughout the growing season
19
Q

Pruning of Floribunda roses

A
  • Cut back the strongest remaining shoots down to within 25-30cm
  • Prune back less vigorous shoots more severely to within 20-25cm
  • Occasionally some older stems can be pruned hard back to 5-10cm from soil level
20
Q

When to Prune Rose bushes

A
  • When they are dormant, or semi-dormant
  • Between autumn and spring
  • Do not prune in frosty weather
  • Modern roses flower on new or the current season’s growth so they are pruned severely to stimulate vigorous, new shoots and to produce a good display of blooms
21
Q

Uses for Wall Shrubs and Climbing plants

A
  • Visually soften bare boundaries - any vertical structure such as a wall, fence, pergola
  • Cover unsightly structures
  • Display attractive flowers or foliage on a pergola or arch
22
Q

Methods of Climbing plant attachment

A

Adventitious roots
• Short bristle-like structures appear along the stems and attach themselves very successfully to a wall, fence or tree
• Once established can weaken the mortar in walls and the surfaces of fences

Sucker pads
• Creepers have small sucker pads at the ends of short tendrils
• Once established can weaken the mortar in walls and the surfaces of fences

Tendrils
• Vines climb and support themselves by means of tendrils
• Short outgrowths from the main stem, naturally twist around any support including their own stems

Twisting stems
• Can become very woody and provide a main supporting framework for the plant

Twisting petioles (leaf stems)
• Clematis climbs by twisting the leaf stem around a support

Thorns and prickles
• In the wild attach themselves to other plants using their prickly stems
• In the garden, however they need tying in to a support until tall enough to support itself

23
Q

Wall shrub categories

A

Wall shrubs - need to be grown against a wall or other structure

  • Shrubs that are self-supporting but they require the warmth and shelter of a south or west-facing wall when grown in colder areas
  • Shrubs that are rather lax in growth and tend to be floppy and untidy when not grown against a wall
  • Shrubs that provide interest through their flowers or fruit and have a specific method of training
24
Q

Considerations when choosing Wall shrub or Climbing plant

A
  • Think carefully about the space available and ensure that the height, width and strength of the wall or other structure will be suitable for the chosen plant in the future
  • Consider the aspect of the structure and whether the plant requires sun
25
Q

Wall shrubs for shade (north or east)

A

Garrya elliptica

Pyracantha ‘Orange Glow’

26
Q

Wall shrubs for sun (south or west-facing)

A

Ceanothus ‘Concha’

Ribes speciosum

27
Q

Climbing plants for shade

A

Hedera helix ‘Glacier’ - wall

Hydrangea anomala - wall

28
Q

Climbing plants for sun

A

Clematis ‘Polish Spirit’ - wall or pergola

Wisteria sinensis - wall or pergola

29
Q

Damage caused by Honey Fungus and methods of spread

Fungi

A
  • Attack and kill roots of woody and perennial plants
  • White fungal growth between bark and wood
  • Upper plants of plants die - indicating failure of root system
  • Cracking and bleeding of bark at base of stem
  • Honey coloured mushrooms found at base of tree

Spread

  • Spreads underground by rhizomorphs through infected roots in the soil
  • Can attack plants up to 30m away from source of infection
30
Q

Control of Honey Fungus

Fungi

A
  • Excavation and destroy, burn all infected material
  • Digging a trench and placing an impermeable barrier such as butyl rubber sheets will block rhizomorphs from spreading
  • No chemical controls available
31
Q

Damaged caused by Coral spot and control

A
  • Normally occurs on dead or dying wood, but can infest living wood
  • Branches to die back
  • Small coral-pink raised spots
  • Cut out infected wood and destroy it
  • Improve growing conditions and do not leave snags when pruning
32
Q

Describe the damage done by aphids

And methods to minimise

A
  • Shoots weakened by the aphids sucking phloem
  • Aphids secret sugary liquid (honeydew) that can get infected by sooty mould - (Blocks out light, preventing photosynthesis)
  • Growth is affected and seed production dramatically reduced
  • Biological = by encouraging predators ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies
  • Chemical = Spray with insecticide containing Pyrethrum, or natural fatty acids (Breaks down outer waxy cuticle)
  • Cultural = Removal of host plants