5/6. Tree's Flashcards
Key considerations for Tree’s in domestic gardens
- Need to know eventual height/ span
- No more than 10m (h) x 15m or 6m (h) in a small garden
Growth through the seasons - Spring blossom
- Coloured foliage
- Autumn colour
- Fruits, flower, seed
- Coloured bark
Acer Griseum
Deciduous - Tree
Decor
- Peeling orange/ brown bark
- 3 lobed palmate leaves that turn orange/ brown in autumn
Use
- As a focal point
- In a sunny spot
Sorbus vilmorinii
Deciduous - Tree
Decor
- Arching branches
- Blue/ green leaflets
- White flowers in late spring
- Deep pink berries in autumn
Use
- In a mixed boarder
- In a small garden
Magnolia Campbelli
Deciduous - Tree
Decor
- A vigorous, conical then spreading, deciduous tree
- White or crimson to rose pink, cup-and-saucer-shaped flowers
Use
- A focal point in a cottage garden
Cercis siliquastrum
Deciduous - Tree
Decor
- Clusters of magenta flowers in spring
- Flat pods in autumn
- Heat shaped blue/ green leaves
- Yellow autumn leaves
Use
- Focal point
- Mediterranean style planting scheme
Eucalyptus pauciflora subsp. niphophila
Evergreen - Tree
Decor
- Green/ grey leaves
- White bark that sheds in summer to reveal bronze patches
Use
- Focal point
- Modern town garden
Arbutus x andrachnoides
Evergreen - Tree
Decor
- Glossy mid green leaves
- Peeling red/ brown bark
- Cluster of white flowers, autumn - spring
Use
- Shrub boarder
- Woodland garden
- Focal point
Cotoneaster ‘Cornibia’
Evergreen - Tree
Decor
- Narrow long, dark, green leaves
- Small white flowers in summer
- Bright red berries in autumn
Use
- Woodland or wildlife garden
- Shrub boarder
Viburnum rhytidophyllum
Evergreen - Tree
Decor
- Oblong, dark green leaves
- White flowers in late spring
- Small red fruits in autumn
Use
- Wood land garden
- Shrub boarder
Tree’s for Winter interest
- Acer griseum - Red peeling bark
* Eucalyptus pauciflora - Bronze bark
Tree’s for Autumn interest
- Sorbus vilmorini - Deep pink berries
* Arbutus x andrachnoides - White flowers
Tree’s for Acidic soils
- Magnolia campbellii
* Nyssa sylvatica
Planting Tree’s - considerations
- Best done between Autumn so less manual watering is req
- Avoid waterlogged soil, or when the ground is frozen
- Young trees become established more quickly
- Older trees create a stronger impact but are more expensive and harder to establish
Planting Tree’s - types available to purchase
Container grown
- Widely available
- Can be bought and planted at any time of year but best planted in Autumn
Bare-root
- Almost always deciduous
- Grown in open ground, then lifted with virtually no soil around the roots
- Essential to buy when dormant (November - February)
- Should be planted immediately
Root-balled
- Mainly evergreens, especially conifers with shallow roots
- Also grown in open ground, when the trees are lifted, the roots and surrounding soil are wrapped in hessian or netting to hold the root-ball together and stop the
roots from drying out
Planting Tree’s - site prep
- Weed - Remove all plant growth in an area 3-4 times the tree’s root ball (eliminate competition)
- Cultivate - Choose a well-drained site, Dig the soil incorporating organic matter in the uppermost part
- Rake - Loosen the soil to a depth greater than the height of the rootball and over an area of about 1m to eliminate compaction and improve drainage
- Feed - Mycorrhizal fungi (e.g. Rootgrow) added in contact with the roots, may help trees and shrubs establish
- Tilth - N/A
Planting Tree’s - container grown
• Plan - Dig the planting hole, between 3-4 times the width of the pot and about 1½ times the depth (square works best)
• Pest/disease - Remove any weeds from the surface of the compost, Check the head of the tree for any damaged or crossing branches. Protect for deer or rabbit damage where necessary
• Water - Soak the container in a bucket of water for an hour
• Setting out - Position a short tree stake, clear of the root-ball and at 450’ to the tree, angled into the prevailing wind. Attach the tree to the stake using a tree tie (on a windy site two short vertical stakes can be used)
• Plant - Gently tease out the roots to encourage them to grow
- Place tree in the hole so that the first flare of roots are level with the soil surface (Deep planting prevents essential air movement to the root system and makes the lower trunk vulnerable)
- Backfill the hole, firming the soil in stages to remove any air pockets
• Food - Mycorrhizal fungi (e.g. Rootgrow)
• Water – Water well and mulch e.g shredded bark (must be kept 10cm clear of the stem to prevent rotting)
Planting Tree’s - bare root
• Plan - Dig the planting hole. big enough for the roots to spread out into (square works best)
• Pest/disease - Protect with rabbit/deer guard
• Water - N/A
• Setting out - Bare -root trees can be staked using a single upright stake driven into the planting hole just off-centre
- Tall trees, or on a windy site trees should be staked using double stakes inserted upright into the planting hole
• Plant - Trim back any damaged roots to healthy growth. Adjust the planting depth if necessary then partly back-fill the hole and gently shake the tree to settle the soil around the roots
• Firm the back-filled soil in stages, taking care not to damage the roots
• Food - Mycorrhizal fungi (e.g. Rootgrow)
• Water –Water well and mulch
Planting Tree’s - Aftercare
• Weed - Keep the surrounding area of 1m clear of grass and weeds - hand weed or hoe
• Water - First 2-3yrs provide plenty of water, particularly in dry weather even when the surface appears moist. During summer, water at a rate of 20 litres of water every other day. Use water aids if required
• Feed - Fertilisers can be used a season after planting if the soil is very poor or a boost to growth is required(blood, fish and bone or Growmore). (If you have used mycorrhizal fungi when planting do not apply a fertiliser as they can suppress the fungus)
- Replenish the mulch as necessary
• Support - Inspect tree/rabbit guards. Inspect tree ties in spring and autumn and adjust to prevent constriction. After 2 growing seasons, the stake can be removed
• Pest/disease -
• Prune - Prune as required
Planting Tree’s - Pruning
- Prune deciduous trees when dormant
- Corrective pruning on misshapen trees is best carried out while the tree is still young
- Remove, dead, damaged and diseased wood and any branches that are inward growing or crossing
- Shorten or remove any competing leaders. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud
- Lower laterals may need removing