3.2 Burgundy Cote d'Or, Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnaise Flashcards
Where is Burgundy, and relatively where is Chablis?
Burgundy
- is a narrow strip of land, north/south in direction
- between Dijon and Macon, about 130 km
- approximately 46-47 N longitude
Chablis is 110km NW of Dijon - makes it cooler than Burgundy.
What is the climate of Cote d’Or, Cote Chalonnais, Macconais?
and what are the hazards?
Climate
Cote d’Or
- Cool Continental – cold winters and warm summers
- Suits early ripening PN & CH
- 700mm of rainfall can threaten harvest
- Morvan hills to the west protect from rainfall
- Vintage variation due to variability of weather yony
- Aspect, altitude, degree of slope, soil affects quality
- ripe fruit esp PN tannins priority in this area
Maconnais
- The Maconnais is slightly drier & warmer than Cote d’Or
Hazards:
- Spring frost - after budburst - agg by climate change & CH&PN early budding
-
Hail - (risk differs per timing)
- damage to early growth / total loss of crop
- later damage to berries which must be removed in case of rot (sorting tables critical to allev this)
- From June 2018 limited netting allowed
- most common prevention is shooting silver iodide into the clouds away from the VY
- as it is localised, hail can badly affect winemaking and commerce . Volnay, Pommard notably affected 2012-2015
-
Rain - timing!
- spring - flowering, fruit set reduces yields/uneven ripening
- growing season - fungal disease
- harvest - dilution / rot
-
Drought stress (climate change)
- irrigation not allowed
- recent vintages - shrivelled berries/vines shut down
- VY with clay cope better
The topography of Cote d’Or, Chalonnaise, Maconnais
Topography
- Topography is a key factor in determining the quality outcome
-
Cote d’Or lies on a N-S orientated range
- Main ridge faces East BUT
- Side valleys running EW - provide SE or S aspects
- Slopes altitude 200 to 400 m
- The best vineyards are:
-
Mid slope (Best)
- Well drained shallow soils
- Good sunlight interception
- Comparative frost protection
- Better ripening potential due to central location (fruit concentration)
- Top of slope are:
- poor thin soils
- exposed to cooling winds
- Bottom of slope :
- Subject to frost risk
- Deeper soils, vigour, low concentr fruit
- Coolest sites are planted to Aligote/ Cremant de Bourgogne
-
Mid slope (Best)
-
Cote Chalonnaise - more varied than CdeO:
- Best south east slopes of Chalonnaise are in Bouzeron and Rully
-
Maconnais more varied than CdeO
- Pouilly-Fuisse on the slopes
- good quality dry Chardonnay.
- Best Pouilly-Fuisse vineyards are being considered for Premier Cru status to recog their sup Q
What are the important factors in vineyard slope on the Cote d’Or?
Importance of vineyard/site slope:
- exposure
- drainage
- soil depth
- heat retention
- & mineral content
- Altitude:
- Mid-slope ideal 250m (forms a sun trap) = most 1ers & grands crus.
- Higher-> harsher climate & slow ripening.
- Lower: alluvial soils with valley mists + frost.
The best Cote d’Or vineyards are on slopes, what geophysical feature provides these slopes?
The east side of the Massif Central, provides east and south east facing slopes
The soils of Cote d’Or, Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais
SOILS
- Mainly composed of limestone and clay, proportions vary
- Cote de Nuits
- high levels of limestone in soil
- best sites for Pinot Noir
- Cote de Beaune
- More clay in the soils and they are deeper
- Best sites for Chardonnay
- Chalonnaise and Maconnais have a mixture of limestone and clay
- Depth of soil to bedrock:
- Varies greatly, erosion moves soil down slope
- Thin soils at the top – low vigour, vines struggle to thrive
- Deeper at the bottom – fertle>high vigour >shade> less ripeness
What 4 components make up the soils of Burgundy?
Chablis:
- Petit: Portlandian - hard limestone, less clay
- Chablis/Pr / Gr Cru : Kimmeridgian soils (excellent drainage, and water retention)
Cote de’Or
- Calcareous and clay: white wine (Montrachet) – Chardonnay
- Limestone and marl: red wine (Chambertin) – Pinot Noir
Chardonnay
Chardonnay
- Versatile and adaptive to range of climates, soils
- Buds early and ripens early
- Rel high yields without loss of quality
- Susc/prone to:
- spring frost, grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage and grapevine yellows
- Top quality in limestone/clay soils
- Burgundy (cool clim Chablis) flavours
- apple, pear, lemon, lime, wet stones, mineral
- l/m body, h acid,
- Burgundy & other (mod clim Cote d’Or)
- ripe citrus, melon, stone fr,
- m/m+ body, m+/h acid
- Main challenge is vigour mgmt, avoid excessive yield/shading that affects ripening
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir
- Buds early and ripens early
- Yields must be reduced in order to produce top quality
- thin skins
-
Delicate prone/susc to
- Millerandage
- D & P MD
- BBR
- Fan leaf and leaf roll viruses
- In warm climates can ripen too fast, berries shrivel / sunburn)
- Main issue in Burgundy is getting sufficient ripeness
-
Clone Usage
- In Burgundy Dijon clone families, dev by University of Burgundy, regarded as the best for quality PN
- Producers decide
- plant a variety of clones (diff yield/disease tol/ripening speed/fruit char) - leads to diversity
- or go for uniform profile and plant a single clone
- a no. of prod propagate own vines via selection massale
-
Typical profile
- strawberry, raspberry, red cherry
- Higher Q: light oak flavours(smoke, clove)
- l/m tannin (Gr Cru m+) m alc, hi acid.
- Dev earth, game, mushroom notes in bottle
Aligote?
Aligoté 5%
- Less replanted post-phylloxera in favour of Chardonnay
- Mostly thin, high-acid wines
- For Bourgogne Aligoté & Crémant
- Bouzeron makes the best examples
What are the Vy management methods used in Burgundy?
Pruning/training method
- Cordon de Royat
- limits yields by limiting vigour
- old wood might harbour disease, producers moving away from it.
- Guyot (replacement cane prune, with VSP)
- was traditionally used, prod now returning to this
- Poussard-Guyot’
- more gentle than Guyot - requires less cuts and hence lowers risk of trunk diseases like Esca
- requires more skilled VY workers
Planting
- 8 - 10000 v/ha (some have higher)
- Density>competition for resource>better Q fruit
Yield Mgmt
- Debudding
- Promotes balance, but
- i done early in season - later hail/rot may significantly impact final yield
- Green harvesting
- assess bunches before sacrificing before veraisson
- takes account of weather before acting
- vine may respond with excessive growth in remaining bunches and dilution
- *Maximum yields**
- (high variation of quality - rules for ind appellations can reflect local conditions)*
- regional appellations R 69 hl/ha W 75 hl/ha
- village R 40 - 45 hl/ha W 45 - 47 hl/ha
- some GR Crus R 35 hl/ha W 40 hl/ha
Organic/Biodynamic becoming more popular
- challenging in the climate of Burgundy
- causes grower aggro as VY are small/shared and some practices need a min area, to be successfully implemented
Disease/hazard management
- grape moths - pheremones
- Fungal disease - spray & can mgmt
- Trunk disease (Esca etc) serious issue
Harvest
- Critical - given the marginal climate/likelihood of storms
- Early? - better acidity, risk unripe fruit
- Later? - softer wine, but higher weather risk
- Majority hand-picked - availability of workforce is major consideration
White wine making in Burgundy? Explain the process and its variations.
- Acidification or de-acidification is permitted (rare)
-
Chaptalisation if must has insuff sugar to reach min alc
- allowed 1.5 - 2% pot alc abv
- Sorting
-
Pressing
- Whole bunch pressed (with stem) (hand picked)
- Normally no skin contact
-
Clarification:
- HiQ - sedimentation
- Inexp/mid - quicker - flotation or centrifuging
- Hyperoxidation – so the final wine is not susceptible to premature oxidation (premox)
-
Fermentation:
- Ambient yeast
- cultured yeast for large vol regional wines
- Inexpensive/mid-priced wines
- stainless steel/concrete vessels/large oak vats
- temperature 16-18 degC - preserve fruit aroma
- avoids banana flav from low temp ferm
- aged in same vessels or in older barrels
- Expensive wines
- Typically ferment + age in barrel > creamier and rounder style
- Temp 16-20 degrees
- Ambient yeast
-
Malo C
- normal practice, but blocked if a fresher style is desired
-
Maturation
- 8-12 months in barrel with fine lees, battonage for texture, reduce reductive flav
- use of New oak
- Regional level wines – see little new oak
- Village level – 20-25% is common
- Premier Cru – 30-50% is common
- Grand Cru – 50% + and sometimes 100%
- 228 litre Burgundy barrel (a “piece” is the standard
- 500-600 litre barrels are used by some producers
- Stirring on lees (batonnage) may be carried out – reduces the reductive characters and adds creamier texture
-
Filter
- white more often than red> cloudiness visible to customer
Cold soaking is commonly used for Pinot Noir in Burgundy - explain the technique and what it is done for
- Cold soaking (below 10 degrees, for 3 - 7 days (course notes states “few”) and maybe sulphured to stop oxidation and prevent the primary ferment kicking off
- Pinot Noir is low in anthocyanins
- So cold soaking is carried out to extract colour
- Plus it aids in picking up some more aromatics from the fruit
Internet:
Cold soaking is often a way to increase the contact time of wine in an aqueous phase, as opposed to extended maceration which results in more contact time in an ethanol-rich phase. Cold soaking extracts anthocyanin and skin tannin, but not much seed tannin (since efficient seed tannin extraction requires ethanol)
Red winemaking (PN) in Burgundy? Explain the process and its variations.
- Pinot Noir - delicate/aromatic/light tannin> vinify carefully!
- Maintaining primary fruit is key
- Not overwhelming with oak flavours
-
Sorting
- common for all but the least exp.
-
Whole bunch fermentation - all or portion -depends on vintage & VY
- aids aeration, intro perfume, freshness and fine tannin
- Except: Unripe stems can introduce green astringent tannins to the wine
- Alt - some destem, following trend of Henri Jayer
-
Cold soaking
-
(below 10 degrees, for few days, and maybe sulphured to stop oxidation and prevent the primary ferment kicking off
- Pinot Noir is low in anthocyanins - this extracts more colour
-
(below 10 degrees, for few days, and maybe sulphured to stop oxidation and prevent the primary ferment kicking off
-
Fermentation
- Small open topped vessels
- Pump over – remontage/punch down – pigeage to:
- intro oxygen - nb for yeast metabolism
- Avoid prod of reductive sulfur compounds (PN prone to reduction)
- Avoid prod acetic acid
- Assist colour, tannin and flavour extraction
- Regulate must temp at ~ 30ºC
-
Post fermentation maceration
- depends on ripeness of fruit and wine style
- 2-3 weeks - for concentration and structure
-
Pressing
- pneumatic or basket press (gentle)
- Free run /press wine vinified sep, poss blended before bottling
- Racked into oak barrels 228l
-
Maturation
- Less expensive – less than one year
- Premium to super premium – 12 to 20 months
- Portion of new oak varies but generally higher in Premier Cru and Grand Cru
- Many varying opinions on new oak and oak maturation
-
MaloC
- Is normally spontaneous in Spring
-
Filtration
- Less expensive wines are fined and lightly filtered
- HiQ may not be
Cote D’Or has classifcation from regional AOCs to the Grand Cru level - provide details on naming
4-tier Hierarchy Cote d’Or
- 7 regional or generic appellations (52% of vol prod)
- normally a geog area*
- Bourgogne AOC,
- Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune AOC,
- Bougogne Cote d’Or AOC (intro 2017)
- Bourgogne Chitry AOC (where Chitry is a village)
-
44 commune /village appellations (47% tog with the prem crus)
- Meursault AOC,
- Gevery-Chambertine AOC
- premier cru >
- normally featured only together with a village appell. if wine is from more than 1 PC then neither on the lable - only the village*
- Pomard Premier Cru Les Rugiens AOC,
- Vosne Romanee Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts AOC
- 33 grand cru > 1% Vol
- are appellations in themselves only Gr Cru name on label*
- Richebourg Grand Cru AOC,
- Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
- *