3.2 Burgundy Cote d'Or, Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnaise Flashcards

1
Q

Where is Burgundy, and relatively where is Chablis?

A

Burgundy

  • is a narrow strip of land, north/south in direction
  • between Dijon and Macon, about 130 km
  • approximately 46-47 N longitude

Chablis is 110km NW of Dijon - makes it cooler than Burgundy.

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2
Q

What is the climate of Cote d’Or, Cote Chalonnais, Macconais?

and what are the hazards?

A

Climate

Cote d’Or

  • Cool Continental – cold winters and warm summers
  • Suits early ripening PN & CH
  • 700mm of rainfall can threaten harvest
  • Morvan hills to the west protect from rainfall
  • Vintage variation due to variability of weather yony
  • Aspect, altitude, degree of slope, soil affects quality
    • ripe fruit esp PN tannins priority in this area

Maconnais

  • The Maconnais is slightly drier & warmer than Cote d’Or

Hazards:

  • Spring frost - after budburst - agg by climate change & CH&PN early budding
  • Hail - (risk differs per timing)
    • damage to early growth / total loss of crop
    • later damage to berries which must be removed in case of rot (sorting tables critical to allev this)
    • From June 2018 limited netting allowed
    • most common prevention is shooting silver iodide into the clouds away from the VY
    • as it is localised, hail can badly affect winemaking and commerce . Volnay, Pommard notably affected 2012-2015
  • Rain - timing!
    • spring - flowering, fruit set reduces yields/uneven ripening
    • growing season - fungal disease
    • harvest - dilution / rot
  • Drought stress (climate change)
    • irrigation not allowed
    • recent vintages - shrivelled berries/vines shut down
    • VY with clay cope better
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3
Q

The topography of Cote d’Or, Chalonnaise, Maconnais

A

Topography

  • Topography is a key factor in determining the quality outcome
  • Cote d’Or lies on a N-S orientated range
    • Main ridge faces East BUT
    • Side valleys running EW - provide SE or S aspects
    • Slopes altitude 200 to 400 m
    • The best vineyards are:
      • Mid slope (Best)
        • Well drained shallow soils
        • Good sunlight interception
        • Comparative frost protection
        • Better ripening potential due to central location (fruit concentration)
      • Top of slope are:
        • poor thin soils
        • exposed to cooling winds
      • Bottom of slope :
        • Subject to frost risk
        • Deeper soils, vigour, low concentr fruit
      • Coolest sites are planted to Aligote/ Cremant de Bourgogne
  • Cote Chalonnaise - more varied than CdeO:
    • Best south east slopes of Chalonnaise are in Bouzeron and Rully
  • Maconnais more varied than CdeO
    • Pouilly-Fuisse on the slopes
    • good quality dry Chardonnay.
    • Best Pouilly-Fuisse vineyards are being considered for Premier Cru status to recog their sup Q
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4
Q

What are the important factors in vineyard slope on the Cote d’Or?

A

Importance of vineyard/site slope:

  • exposure
  • drainage
  • soil depth
  • heat retention
  • & mineral content
  • Altitude:
  • Mid-slope ideal 250m (forms a sun trap) = most 1ers & grands crus.
  • Higher-> harsher climate & slow ripening.
  • Lower: alluvial soils with valley mists + frost.
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5
Q

The best Cote d’Or vineyards are on slopes, what geophysical feature provides these slopes?

A

The east side of the Massif Central, provides east and south east facing slopes

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6
Q

The soils of Cote d’Or, Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais

A

SOILS

  • Mainly composed of limestone and clay, proportions vary
  • Cote de Nuits
    • high levels of limestone in soil
    • best sites for Pinot Noir
  • Cote de Beaune
    • More clay in the soils and they are deeper
    • Best sites for Chardonnay
  • Chalonnaise and Maconnais have a mixture of limestone and clay
  • Depth of soil to bedrock:
    • Varies greatly, erosion moves soil down slope
    • Thin soils at the top – low vigour, vines struggle to thrive
    • Deeper at the bottom – fertle>high vigour >shade> less ripeness
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7
Q

What 4 components make up the soils of Burgundy?

A

Chablis:

  • Petit: Portlandian - hard limestone, less clay
  • Chablis/Pr / Gr Cru : Kimmeridgian soils (excellent drainage, and water retention)

Cote de’Or

  • Calcareous and clay: white wine (Montrachet) – Chardonnay
  • Limestone and marl: red wine (Chambertin) – Pinot Noir
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8
Q

Chardonnay

A

Chardonnay

  • Versatile and adaptive to range of climates, soils
  • Buds early and ripens early
  • Rel high yields without loss of quality
  • Susc/prone to:
    • spring frost, grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage and grapevine yellows
  • Top quality in limestone/clay soils
  • Burgundy (cool clim Chablis) flavours
    • apple, pear, lemon, lime, wet stones, mineral
    • l/m body, h acid,
  • Burgundy & other (mod clim Cote d’Or)
    • ripe citrus, melon, stone fr,
    • m/m+ body, m+/h acid
  • Main challenge is vigour mgmt, avoid excessive yield/shading that affects ripening
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9
Q

Pinot Noir

A

Pinot Noir

  • Buds early and ripens early
  • Yields must be reduced in order to produce top quality
  • thin skins
  • Delicate prone/susc to
    • Millerandage
    • D & P MD
    • BBR
    • Fan leaf and leaf roll viruses
    • In warm climates can ripen too fast, berries shrivel / sunburn)
    • Main issue in Burgundy is getting sufficient ripeness
  • Clone Usage
    • In Burgundy Dijon clone families, dev by University of Burgundy, regarded as the best for quality PN
    • Producers decide
      • plant a variety of clones (diff yield/disease tol/ripening speed/fruit char) - leads to diversity
      • or go for uniform profile and plant a single clone
      • a no. of prod propagate own vines via selection massale
  • Typical profile
    • strawberry, raspberry, red cherry
    • Higher Q: light oak flavours(smoke, clove)
    • l/m tannin (Gr Cru m+) m alc, hi acid.
    • Dev earth, game, mushroom notes in bottle
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10
Q

Aligote?

A

Aligoté 5%

  • Less replanted post-phylloxera in favour of Chardonnay
  • Mostly thin, high-acid wines
  • For Bourgogne Aligoté & Crémant
  • Bouzeron makes the best examples
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11
Q

What are the Vy management methods used in Burgundy?

A

Pruning/training method

  • Cordon de Royat
    • limits yields by limiting vigour
    • old wood might harbour disease, producers moving away from it.
  • Guyot (replacement cane prune, with VSP)
    • was traditionally used, prod now returning to this
  • Poussard-Guyot’
    • more gentle than Guyot - requires less cuts and hence lowers risk of trunk diseases like Esca
    • requires more skilled VY workers

Planting

  • 8 - 10000 v/ha (some have higher)
  • Density>competition for resource>better Q fruit

Yield Mgmt

  • Debudding
    • Promotes balance, but
    • i done early in season - later hail/rot may significantly impact final yield
  • Green harvesting
    • assess bunches before sacrificing before veraisson
    • takes account of weather before acting
    • vine may respond with excessive growth in remaining bunches and dilution
  • *Maximum yields**
  • (high variation of quality - rules for ind appellations can reflect local conditions)*
  • regional appellations R 69 hl/ha W 75 hl/ha
  • village R 40 - 45 hl/ha W 45 - 47 hl/ha
  • some GR Crus R 35 hl/ha W 40 hl/ha

Organic/Biodynamic becoming more popular

  • challenging in the climate of Burgundy
  • causes grower aggro as VY are small/shared and some practices need a min area, to be successfully implemented

Disease/hazard management

  • grape moths - pheremones
  • Fungal disease - spray & can mgmt
  • Trunk disease (Esca etc) serious issue

Harvest

  • Critical - given the marginal climate/likelihood of storms
  • Early? - better acidity, risk unripe fruit
  • Later? - softer wine, but higher weather risk
  • Majority hand-picked - availability of workforce is major consideration
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12
Q

White wine making in Burgundy? Explain the process and its variations.

A
  • Acidification or de-acidification is permitted (rare)
  • Chaptalisation if must has insuff sugar to reach min alc
    • allowed 1.5 - 2% pot alc abv
  • Sorting
  • Pressing
    • Whole bunch pressed (with stem) (hand picked)
    • Normally no skin contact
  • Clarification:
    • HiQ - sedimentation
    • Inexp/mid - quicker - flotation or centrifuging
  • Hyperoxidation – so the final wine is not susceptible to premature oxidation (premox)
  • Fermentation:
    • Ambient yeast
      • cultured yeast for large vol regional wines
    • Inexpensive/mid-priced wines
      • stainless steel/concrete vessels/large oak vats
      • temperature 16-18 degC - preserve fruit aroma
      • avoids banana flav from low temp ferm
      • aged in same vessels or in older barrels
    • Expensive wines
      • Typically ferment + age in barrel > creamier and rounder style
      • Temp 16-20 degrees
  • Malo C
    • normal practice, but blocked if a fresher style is desired
  • Maturation
    • 8-12 months in barrel with fine lees, battonage for texture, reduce reductive flav
    • use of New oak
      • Regional level wines – see little new oak
      • Village level – 20-25% is common
      • Premier Cru – 30-50% is common
      • Grand Cru – 50% + and sometimes 100%
    • 228 litre Burgundy barrel (a “piece” is the standard
    • 500-600 litre barrels are used by some producers
    • Stirring on lees (batonnage) may be carried out – reduces the reductive characters and adds creamier texture
  • Filter
    • white more often than red> cloudiness visible to customer
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13
Q

Cold soaking is commonly used for Pinot Noir in Burgundy - explain the technique and what it is done for

A
  • Cold soaking (below 10 degrees, for 3 - 7 days (course notes states “few”) and maybe sulphured to stop oxidation and prevent the primary ferment kicking off
    • Pinot Noir is low in anthocyanins
    • So cold soaking is carried out to extract colour
    • Plus it aids in picking up some more aromatics from the fruit

Internet:

Cold soaking is often a way to increase the contact time of wine in an aqueous phase, as opposed to extended maceration which results in more contact time in an ethanol-rich phase. Cold soaking extracts anthocyanin and skin tannin, but not much seed tannin (since efficient seed tannin extraction requires ethanol)

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14
Q

Red winemaking (PN) in Burgundy? Explain the process and its variations.

A
  • Pinot Noir - delicate/aromatic/light tannin> vinify carefully!
    • Maintaining primary fruit is key
    • Not overwhelming with oak flavours
  • Sorting
    • common for all but the least exp.
  • Whole bunch fermentation - all or portion -depends on vintage & VY
    • aids aeration, intro perfume, freshness and fine tannin
    • Except: Unripe stems can introduce green astringent tannins to the wine
    • Alt - some destem, following trend of Henri Jayer
  • Cold soaking
    • (below 10 degrees, for few days, and maybe sulphured to stop oxidation and prevent the primary ferment kicking off
      • Pinot Noir is low in anthocyanins - this extracts more colour
  • Fermentation
    • Small open topped vessels
    • Pump over – remontage/punch down – pigeage to:
      • intro oxygen - nb for yeast metabolism
      • Avoid prod of reductive sulfur compounds (PN prone to reduction)
      • Avoid prod acetic acid
      • Assist colour, tannin and flavour extraction
      • Regulate must temp at ~ 30ºC
  • Post fermentation maceration
    • depends on ripeness of fruit and wine style
    • 2-3 weeks - for concentration and structure
  • Pressing
    • pneumatic or basket press (gentle)
    • Free run /press wine vinified sep, poss blended before bottling
    • Racked into oak barrels 228l
  • Maturation
    • Less expensive – less than one year
    • Premium to super premium – 12 to 20 months
    • Portion of new oak varies but generally higher in Premier Cru and Grand Cru
    • Many varying opinions on new oak and oak maturation
  • MaloC
    • Is normally spontaneous in Spring
  • Filtration
    • Less expensive wines are fined and lightly filtered
    • HiQ may not be
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15
Q

Cote D’Or has classifcation from regional AOCs to the Grand Cru level - provide details on naming

A

4-tier Hierarchy Cote d’Or

  • 7 regional or generic appellations (52% of vol prod)
  • normally a geog area*​​
    • Bourgogne AOC,
    • Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune AOC,
    • Bougogne Cote d’Or AOC (intro 2017)
    • Bourgogne Chitry AOC (where Chitry is a village)
  • 44 commune /village appellations (47% tog with the prem crus)
    • Meursault AOC,
    • Gevery-Chambertine AOC
  • premier cru >
  • normally featured only together with a village appell. if wine is from more than 1 PC then neither on the lable - only the village*
    • Pomard Premier Cru Les Rugiens AOC,
    • Vosne Romanee Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts AOC
  • 33 grand cru > 1% Vol
  • are appellations in themselves only Gr Cru name on label*
    • Richebourg Grand Cru AOC,
    • Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
  • *
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16
Q

What does the classification tell you about vineyard location

A

In general the classification reflects VY location incl position on slope

….so from the top of the mountain and down……

  • “Hautes Cotes de Nuits AOC”, “Hautes Cotes de Beaune AOC”
    • Flat land beyond the top of the slope
    • (exposed to weather, poor sunlight intercept, rich soil) - low conc grapes, may struggle to ripen
  • Grand Crus
    • Found mid-slope with pr crus surrounding (above/below)
      • Full ripeness can be achieved even in cool years
      • poor but adeq drainage, protection from weather sys, good sunlight interception
      • contributes to concentration, balance, length.
  • Village or Communal AOCs
    • Typically around lowest part of slope
      • Soils richer, less well drained
      • Fruit does not reach same level of ripeness
      • Still produces wines of very good quality/char
  • “Bourgogne AOC”
    • Flat land at the bottom of the slope.
17
Q

Principle appellations of the Cote de Nuits?

A
  • Mostly red, a small amount of white
  • Hyphenated name of the villages (commune) celebrate the grand cru vineyard connected to the village.
  • Most nb villages from north to south:
  • Gevrey-Chambertin AOC - (R)
    • Charmes-Chambertin AOC
    • Chambertin Clos-de-Beze AOC
  • Morey-St-Denis (Mostly R)
    • Clos de Tart AOC
    • Clos de la Roche AOC
  • Chambolle-Musigny AOC (R&W - only red for village)
    • Bonnes Mares AOC
    • Le Musigny AOC
  • Vougeot AOC (R&W)
    • Clos de Vougeot AOC - this GCru larger than the village app
  • Vosne-Romanee AOC (R)
    • Romanee-Conti AOC
    • La Tache AOC
    • La Romanee AOC
  • Nuits-Saint-George AOC (mostly R)
    • No GCru, but nb PCru
    • Les Saint-Georges
    • Les Vaucrains

Notable other villages

  • Marsannay - red, rose
    • Rose mostly -
      • northern location ~ cooler.
  • Fixin - mainly red
    • Cooler ~ light body reds
18
Q

Describe the principal appellations in Cote de Beaune

A
  • Most NB for white wine,
  • Red wine is made there is 1 Gr Cru for red:
  • Most NB Villages N - S
  • Aloxe-Corton AOC/ Pernand-Vergelesses AOC; Ladoix-Serrigny AOC
    • Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC (W)
    • Corton Grand Cru AOC
      • has many lieux-dits
      • mostly planted with PN, but can produce CH
  • Beaune AOC (mostly red, but white also made) PR Crus:
    • Le Clos des Mouches;
    • Les Greves
  • Pommard AOC (R only) PR Crus:
    • Les Rugiens
    • Clos des Epeneaux
  • Volnay AOC (Red only) Pr Crus:
    • Clos des Chenes
    • Les Caillerets
  • Meursault AOC (W only) Pr Crus:
    • Perrieres (example “Meursault Perrieres AOC”)
    • Genevrieres
  • Puligny-Montrachet AOC (W) and Chassagne-Montrachet AOC (R&W)
    • Le Montrachet AOC (W)
    • Batard-Montrachet AOC (W)
  • St Aubin AOC (W) Pr Crus:
    • Sur le Sentier du Clou
    • En Remilly
  • Other important village appellations
    • St Romain AOC (W)
    • Auxey-Duresses AOC (mostly red)
    • Santenay AOC (mainly red)
19
Q

Name the key appellations of Cote Chalonnaise and what they are known for?

A
  • Cote Chalonnaise - “Bougogne Cote Chalonnaise” - often labelled “Bourgogne AOC”
    • more red than white wine produced
    • good value wines frequently labelled
      • Bourgogne AOC or
      • Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise AOC
    • Village and Premier Cru but no Grand Cru
    • Premier Crus :
      • on S / SE / E facing slopes -sunlight
      • Well drained limestone soils: riper, hi Q fruit
  • Key Villages
    • Bouzeron AOC (W):
      • Must be 100% Aligote grapes
      • finest region for the 2nd white grape of Burgundy
    • Rully AOC (more W than R); pr crus for both:
      • over 25% Premier cru level
      • important producer of grapes for Cremant de Bourgogne
    • Mercurey AOC (much more R than W):
      • Largest producer of communal appellation wines
      • ~25% of vineyards are classified Premier Cru
    • Givry AOC (mostly R):
      • over 40% Premier Cru vineyards
    • Montagny AOC (W only)
      • ~2/3 Premier Cru
20
Q

What are the key details and AOCs of Maconnais?

A

Maconnais Hierarchy

  • Macon AOC
  • Macon-Villages AOC
  • Macon-Villages + named village AOC
    • Macon Verze AOC
  • Named village appellations
    • e.g. Pouilly Fuisse AOC
  • Mostly white, inexpensive wines – labelled Bourgogne AOC
  • In order of increasing quality:
  • Mâcon AOC
    • Mainly red/rose wines, small amount of white
  • Mâcon-Villages or Mâcon + village name (Macon-Lugny)
    • white only
    • 43 villages, important: Lugny
  • Named village appellation
    • Pouilly-Fuissé AOC
      • Sun trap location – Amphitheatre
      • Planted on limestone slopes of Roche de Solutre (east and south east exposure)
      • Very ripe tropical stone fruits, paired with oak
      • The Maconnais is in final stages of formalising pr cru status for best sites in villages like Pouilly-Fuisse
    • Viré-Clessé AOC
    • Saint-Véran AOC
    • Pouilly-Vinzelle AOC
    • Pouilly-Loché AOC
21
Q

What is the breakdown of the business units in Burgundy?

A

Growers

  • Business with VY holdings, sell grapes or unfinished wine to negociants.
  • Several thousand, typically holdings divided in different villages and vineyards

Domaines:

  • businesses that own vineyards and make wine from them, sell under own domaine label

Negociants:

  • typically large businesses, buy grapes or wine, finish, bottle, sell under own label

Micro-negociants

  • smaller businesses buy grapes from very good to top quality vineyards, make the wines and sell under their own names
  • eg Benjamin Leroux

Cooperatives:

  • less important in Cote d’Or
  • more dominant in Chablis (La Chablisienne – 25%)
  • Maconnais (Cave de Lugny)
  • Lesser extent in Cote Chalonnaise
22
Q

What business factors contribute to style, quality, price of wines in Burgundy

A

Who is in the market?

  • Historically much trade through negociants who would buy grapes/must/wine.
    • REcently a move towards domaine bottling, and domaines acting as negociants (Dujac)
      • wine from own VY “Domaine Dujace”
      • wine from purchased fruit or wine “Dujac Fils et Pere”
    • Fragmented ownership requires detailed knowledge to identify the source of a wine

Leading to significant rise in quality:

  • younger winemakers, technically skilled, travelled, and thus more open-minded about winemaking

Drivers of price:

  • domaine, appellation, vineyard name
    • a village wine from a well known domaine can fetch a higher price than a premier cru from same village but less well known producer (reputation and market identity is significant)
  • Style Differences by Village
    • Volnay - elegance, intensely perfumed
    • Pommard - robust and tannic
  • Reputation for a particular stylistic feature especially from Gr Cru or Pr Cru single vineyards e.g.
    • Meursault Perrieres - steely concentration
    • Meursault Charmes - full body and approachable
  • High land prices due to relative scarcity & because of reputation of sought after vy names
    • foreing buyers add pressure to land prices
  • increased demand for the small production (dramatic diff in vintage due to weather hazard
    • compared to Bordeaux:
      • Burgundy vol = 1/4 of Bordeaux
      • similarly Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (Burgundy’s most sought after wine) produces 1/4 vol compared to Chateau Lafite Rothschild’s Grand Vin in Bordeaux
  • increased interest for 2ndry market trading of the most exp Burgundy: (Livex index shows Burg price increased 200% 2003 - 2016)
  • all lead to substantial price increases since mid 2000’s

Route to market:

  • cellar door to consumer
  • negociant/cooperative to distribution chain
  • En primeur
  • Hospitality
  • speciliast wine shops
  • supermarkets
  • Export 50%: USA; UK; Japan largest by value
23
Q

8 e.g.s of Cote de Beaune Villages

A
  • Aloxe-Corton AOC
    • Corton AOC
    • Corton Charlemagne AOC
  • Beaune AOC
    • PC Clos des Mouches
    • PC Les Greves
  • Pommard AOC
    • PC Les Rugiens
    • PC Clos des Epenaux
  • Volnay AOC
    • PC Les Caillerets AOC
    • PC Clos des Chenes
  • Meursault AOC
    • PC Genevrieres AOC
    • PC Perrieres AOC
  • Puligny-Montrachet AOC
    • Le Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
    • Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
    • Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
  • Chassagne-Montrachet AOC
  • St Aubin AOC
    • PC Sur le Sentier du Clou
    • PC En Remilly
24
Q

5 Grands Crus of Cote de Beaune

A
  • Corton Grand Cru AOC
  • Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC
  • Le Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
  • Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
  • Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
25
Q

How many Grands Crus are there in Burgundy?

How many Premiers Crus?

A

32 Grands Crus in the Cote d’Or

1 Grand Cru with 7 climats (VY) in Chablis

640 Premiers Crus across Burgundy (40 of these in Chablis)

26
Q

Domaine de la Romanee Conti is associated with which wine/vineyard area?

A

Burgundy/Cote de Nuits/Vosne-Romanee

27
Q

In Appelation hierarchy Gevrey Chambertin AOC is an example of a what?

A

Commune / Village wine

28
Q

5 main villages of the Cote Chalonnaise and the kinds of wine(s) they produce:

A

Bouzeron - Whites ONLY from Aligoté

Rully - Mostly White 25% pc; C de B - important

Mercurey - Mostly Red 25% pc; largest

Givry - Mostly Red 40% pc

Montagny - White ONLY~60% pc

29
Q

Meursault AOP may produce red and white wine.

True or False?

A

False

White wines only

30
Q

Which communes in Cote Chalonnaise only produces white wine?

A

Montagny and Bouzeron

31
Q

What is the primary grape for the following appellations?

  • Meursault
  • Pommard
  • Volnay
  • Morgon
  • Bouzeron
  • Gevrey-Chambertin
  • Musigny
A
  • Meursault: Chardonnay
  • Pommard: Pinot Noir
  • Volnay: Pinot Noir
  • Morgon: Gamay
  • Bouzeron: Aligoté
  • Gevrey-Chambertin: Pinot Noir
  • Musigny: Pinot Noir / Chardonnay
32
Q

Mercurey is associated with which wine/vineyard area?

A

Cote Chalonnaise - most PN