2.0 Bordeaux Flashcards

1
Q

Describe Growing Env in Bordeaux?

A
  • Maritime influence - cool Atlantic
  • Relatively dry, warm autumn for ripening
  • Left Bank protected from Atlantic by Landes forest
  • Northern Medoc open to maritime influence (less protection from the forest- so its cooler than southern Medoc and Graves
  • Sufficient rainfall 950mm, variable in qty and timing.
    • Excessive rain issues typical (flowering/fruit set, fungal disease, dilution)
  • Maritime influence less pronounced on Right Bank (St Emilion, Pomerol and surrounds)
  • Major rivers that flow through the region contribute to humidy enc BBR and Noble Botrytis
  • Gironde estuary moderates the influence of frost, vineyards not close to it can be susceptible.
  • Climate change: hot dry summers, insuff rain - the varieties in Bordeaux are hardy and cope well, but alcohol level inc
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2
Q

Describe how soil influences the quality of wine from Bordeaux

A
  • Left Bank Medoc to Graves - famous gravel
    • Top Estates on mounds of gravel
    • Deposits of gravel and stony soil sometimes mixed with clay (St Estephe) / sand.
      • Drains well, vine roots dry out, continue ripening, less rot;
      • heat retention - released at night - facilitates slow ripening Suits Cab Sauv
      • possible issue if very hot, drainage can result in hydric stress
  • Right Bank - more clay sometimes with significant patches of gravel (Libournais) suits Merlot
    • Best grapes from limestone plateau/gravel section bordering Pomerol.
  • Rich, alluvial soil, only the lowest appellation wines are produced from here
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3
Q

Why is Bordeaux denominated by blends rather than single varietal wines?

A
  • Because of the big variations in weather conditions from year to year.
  • Different grape varieties respond differently to the weather.
  • Allows producers to hedge their bets and enable production even if the conditions of a vintage were unfavourable.
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4
Q

Discuss main grape varieties permitted under AC regulations in Bordeaux?

A
  • 14 grape varieties are permitted - main ones are
  • Reds: Cab Sav, Cab Franc, Merlot Malbec, Petit Verdot
  • Whites: Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle

New varieties to combat climte change

Touriga Nacional

Marselan (x CS and GN)

Castets (originally FR)

Another one is x CS and Tannat (silly name)

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5
Q

What is the classic grape of the Médoc?

A
  • Left Bank
  • Cabernet Sauvignon - it accounts for ~ 3/4 of the blend in the Médoc because…. of the warm gravel soil that helps it to ripen

Characteristics

  • Late bud, late ripen - (frost+; autumn rain -) - needs warm soil to ripen
  • Small berry, thick skin, high tannin > wines with high tannin
  • Prone to fungal diease, trunk disease >Eutypa and Esca
  • Highest Q when grown on well drained soil e.g. gravel of Medoc
  • Contributes pron violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol/herbaceous, m alc, h acid, h tann.
  • In cooler season, could struggle to ripen > wine has h acid, unripe tannin, little fruit - thus it is often blended with Merlot and CF
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6
Q

Why is Cabernet Franc added to a Bordeaux blend? And what are the watch outs?

A
  • Contributes red fruit, hi acid, med tannin to the Bord Blend
  • Can be herbaceous of not ripe
  • It gives bigger yields than Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Early bud (frost), mid ripen (before autumn rain)
  • Suitable for cool areas
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7
Q

Why is Merlot added to a Bordeaux blend?

Describe the var.

A
  • Contributes med/pron red fruit, med tann, med/hi alc
    • cb herbaceous in cool years/ jammy black fruits in hot
  • Early bud (frost) mid ripe (before aut rain)
  • Susc to coulure/bbr > red yield
  • By comparison to Cab Sauv it can ripen in the cooler years
  • On clay soil in N Medoc prod a big berry, and reaches high sugar levels (hence the hi alc)
  • It adds softness, richness and body to the austere Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Particularly important in Saint Emilion and Pomerol on the right bank of Bordeaux
    *
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8
Q

What is Petit Verdot’s role in Bordeaux?

A
  • Bud early, ripens later than CS
    • Susc frost, and rain at harvest - does best on the warmest parts of Bordeaux
    • Ripens fully only in very hot years (therefore min use)
  • Gives very deep colour, high tannin, spice
    • If used - only up to 5% of blend
  • !! with climate change this could become a more valued variety - as it will be able to ripen more reliably
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9
Q

What is Sémillon‘s role in Bordeaux?

A
  • It is the most widely planted white grape variety in Bordeaux
  • Mid ripening, susc to BBR and Noble Rot in the right circumstances
  • High yields, can be grassy if not ripe
  • Character: low int apple&lemon; m body; m alc; m/m+ acid
  • Bordeaux Blend: contributes l/m aromas, body, m acid
    • (It is blended with SB to soften SB’s acid)
    • strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice flavours from new oak
  • Noble Rot Bordeaux:
    • pron honey, dried peach/lemon; waxy texture;
    • develops toast & honey with age.

(Note comparison to SB which holds its aromas, but they do not develop in bottle)

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10
Q

What is Sauvignon Blanc’s role in Bordeaux?

A
  1. It is the one exception to the generalisation that all Bordeaux wines are blends as increasingly it is used for single varietal, dry white wines (due to popularity)
  2. When blended, it’s high acidity acts as a counterbalance to the potential flabbiness of Sémillon
  3. It produces wines with distinctly vegetal, grass and elderflower/gooseberry aromas
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11
Q

What is Muscadelle’s role in Bordeaux?

A
  • Particularly susceptible to fungal disease - needs exposed site.
  • Adds grapey floral character mostly to sweet white wines
  • Not related to Muscat
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12
Q

How are vines trained in Bordeaux; what are the typical vineyard hazards and diseases?

A

Vineyard planting

  • Dense - 10000 v/ha
    • Suits infertile soils, moderate vigour
    • Means additional cost: more plants, trellising, vineyard work, special tractors (over-the-row) but necessary ito cost of land
  • On less presigious land (basic Bordeaux AOC) 3 - 4000 v/ha
  • Single Guyot - Right Bank (head trained, r-cane pruned - most common)
  • Double Guyot - Left Bank
  • Particular presigious estates - Cordon trained, spur pruned - for better aeration to bunches, reduced yields
  • Leaf removal late summer (after risk of sunburn) increase aeration (disease) and increase UV light (ripening)

Typical hazards and diseases:

  • moderate/damp climate - downy mildew, powdery mildew, BBR - addressbed by canopy thinning (leaf removal)
  • Eutypa dieback and Esca - these rot the vines from inside - addressed with soft pruning, a technique to allow the wood to dry out and allowsap to flow around the plant
  • Flavescens Doree - bacteria disease, vector is the leafhopper - managed with insecticide, but not approved for organic/biodynamic farming
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13
Q

Is machine harvesting permitted in Bordeaux?

A
  • Top estates pick by hand
  • Many VY machine pick out of economic necessity - also gives more flexibility to timing, less quality control, speed if fungal disease threatens (weather)
  • Hand picking is necessary for finest sweet wines as pickers need to select individual bunches as they pass through the vineyard on a number of occasions
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14
Q

Regulations on % of variety in a blend

A

Does not exist in Bordeaux. Allowed varieties across the region. In practice the wine is dominated by the traditional plantings on the Left and Right banks

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15
Q

Bordeaux red winemaking - describe

A

Sorting

  • High Q sort at pick, on belt, optical. Only best fruit
  • Also separate each plot, vinify separately and blend optimally later - adds cost: vessels, time, space
  • Other machine harvest, not sorted
  • Best vintages may forego sorting - all qualities

Fermentation

  • Closed vats with pump over & cultured yeast
    • also cement, SS, wood - all temp controlled,
  • Early drinking: primary fruit, limited extraction: mid range temp, ~1 week on skin
  • Long bottle ageing: mid-warm fermentation, ~ 2 - 4 weeks on skins, less if fruit not fully ripe
  • Many producers innoculate for rapid completion of malo c in barrel (integrates wine+wood ) before “En Primeur” starts

Drain,

  • press skins: pneumatic/vertical/hydraulic for gentle ext.
  • Free run, press wine separately - into 225 barriques.

Maturation

  • Simpler wines - stainless steel - 4-6 weeks + oak chips for flavour
  • Hi Q - French barriques, mix of 1/2yr old wood, or all new (exp!): 18-24m (more tannin - more months)
  • Wines may be racked every 3 months
    • OR left on lees, injected with O2 to
    • avoid reduction & help soften tannin.

Blending 2 approaches:

  • If En Primeur - prob blend over winter for presenting for tasting in spring.
    • (near-final blend and deselection of wines to the 2nd/3rd label to be sold to merchants)
  • Others (minority) blend a few months before bottling after assessment of each of the components before making final selection.
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16
Q

Bordeaux Rose Winemaking

A

Varieties: Merlot / Cab Sauv.

Two types

  • Deep col Clairet: short maceration and saignee. This is a byproduct of red wine making.
  • Light colour rose made by direct press.
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17
Q

Bordeaux White Winemaking

A

Two methods

Max freshness / early drinking:

  • Pressed on arrival ferment cool temps, SS
  • block maloc for freshness, acid
  • inexp remain in tank few months, clarify, bottle
  • or mid price 6 - 12m on fine lees for weight/complexity

HiQ for ageing

  • on arrival left on skins 24 hours (unless unripe) for aromas and phenolics
  • fermented, and aged in barrique - varying prop of new oak,
    • some block maloc for freshness, acid
    • may leave on fine lees 6 - 12 months, for weight and complexity. (battonage not done any more avoid fuller body/too little acid = flabby)

Contemporary:

  • more focus on SB skin contact for extraction of aromatics;
  • less use of new oak for ferm and mat.
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18
Q

Describe Grape growing and winemaking for Sweet Wines

A
  • Low yields (often 1/3 of that for still wine) - ensures high sugar in grapes
  • Prune to low no of buds, remove any fruit diseased/damaged
  • Although allowed 25hl/ha, above means best estates obtain below 10hl/ha - reduced economy of scale
    • need well trained harvesters - pick accurately for noble rot, and up to 10-12 passes through
  • Botrytis depends on
    • correct conditions
    • location and position of estate (close to mist)
    • estate willingness to wait and risk losing all/part of crop
      • means some mix noble rot and late harvest fruit
  • After picking
    • grapes handled as if for white wine
    • SS/concrete/barriques
    • aged for varying periods
  • HiQ
    • normally aged in hi prop new oak barrique for integ of oak and fruit
    • 18 - 36 m encourages gentle oxid to add complexity
    • new oak ranges 30 - 50 - 100% adds cost Chat d’Yquem
  • Less presigious sweet wines
    • unoaked, released 1 year after harvest.
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19
Q

Describe wine styles and yields for Bordeaux AOC & Bordeaux Superieur AOC

A
  • Still R, W, P - it accounts for 50% of Bordeaux wine by vol.
  • Bordeaux Red 67 hl/ha
  • White 65hl/ha
  • Rose 62 hl/ha
    • all above yields are high = low concentration
  • Bordeaux Superieur 59hl/ha
  • Red dom var = Merlot
  • White made with incr amount of SB
  • A/G Q, inexp - mid price
20
Q

Key facts for Médoc AOC & Haut-Medoc

A

Left bank,

red wine only,

wine can be sold from mid June year after harvest

Medoc

  • covers the north part of the area
  • More clay = more Merlot than CS

Haut Medoc

  • is closer to Bordeaux city,
  • includes four prestigious communes
  • Warm gravel soil, therefore CS 50%, Merlot 44%

Wide range of qualities and levels

21
Q

Describe the communes of Haut-Médoc?

A

Adjacent to Gironde estuary with its mod influence

  • High prop of warm gravel soils for CS to ripen
  • Red wine only 57 hl/ha
    • pron int blackcurrant, bell pepper (if cool), red plum, vanilla, cedar oak, m/h alc, h tann, m+ body
    • VG/OS - prem-sprem price
  • All but one 1855 classified first growths are within Haut-Médoc

Prestigous:

  • Saint-Estèphe AOC:
    • closest to Atlantic, coolest
    • Clay soils away from Estuary - 40% Merlot
    • Gravel closer to Estuary - 50% CS
    • Because its cool, reputation for rustic wines that need years in bottle to soften tannins (addressed by more Merlot, or blends with grapes from warmer soils)
    • No firsts, seconds and large no. of Cru Bourgeois
  • Pauillac AOC,
    • 62% CS on gravel close to Estuary, ripens fully
    • Many estates have high % CS in blend
    • “Most structured of Left Bank”
    • has 3 first growths, 85% of prod = cru classe
  • Saint-Julien AOC
    • High prop CS and high proportion cru classe prod
    • homogenous gravel soil
    • “Midway between structure of Pauillac and finesse of Margaux”
    • 5 second growths
  • Margaux AOC
    • More Merlot than CS
    • Stony gravelly soils, with clay seams that need drainage (cost) “Perfumed wines, silky tannins”
    • 1 first growth, high prop of cru classe
  • Listrac-Medoc AOC and Moulis AOC
    • less gravel,
    • less mod infl from the estuary
    • no classed growth production.
    • Good/Very good, mid - prem price
22
Q

Key facts re Graves Appellations

A

Graves AOC (red & white)

  • Large appellation, south of Bordeaux city
  • 85% is Red 55 hl/ha
  • White 58 hl/ha
  • Most A/G, inexp to mid price

Graves Superieures AOC (white)

  • Only late picked/noble rot sweet wines 40 hl/ha (higher than Sauternes)

Pessac-Leognan AOC

  • gravel soil and mod infl of Garonne
  • one First Growth, all Cru Classe
  • within Graves classification
  • “Produces best whites of Bordeaux”
  • 20% whites HiQ, often barrel ferm. aged - 54hl/ha,
  • SB & Sem blended,
  • G - OS Q, prem to sprem price
  • 80% HiQ reds 54 hl/ha
  • quality is similar to prestigious Medoc communes
23
Q

Key Facts Entre-Deux-Mers AOC?

A
  • Only white wine only for AOC
  • (Reds produced labelled Bordeaux/Bordeaux Sup)
  • 65 hl/ha ~ some wines light flavour int.
  • Acc-Good Q, inexp - mid price
  • Main varieties Semillon, SB
24
Q

Which two rivers is Entre-Deux-Mers in between?

A

The Dordogne River below the right bank and the Garonne River above Graves on the Left Bank

25
Q

Key facts Saint-Emilion AOC and Saint-Emilion Grand Cru AOC

A
  • Right Bank, R only
  • SE 53 hl/ha & 6 m ageing
  • SE G Cru 46 hl/ha & 20 m ageing
    • 60% Merlot, next CabF
  • Own classification system,
    • wide range of quality up to top
    • Gr Cru Classe comparable with First Growths of Left Bank
  • Four AOC’s close to Saint-Emilion, but further away from the Dordogne may append their names to Saint-Emilion AOC
    • Similar wines, same rules as Saint-Emilion AOC
      • Montagne-Saint-Emilion AOC /
      • Lussac-Saint Emilion AOC
    • (1. Lussac 2. Montagne 3. Puisseguin 4. Saint-Georges)
26
Q

Key Facts - Pomerol AOC?

A
  • Small, very prestigious
  • 80% Merlot, next CabF 49 hl/ha
  • No classification,
  • many top estates (command highest prices in the world per bottle):
    • Petrus
    • Le Pin
  • “Wines have notable vanilla and clove new oak character”

Lalande de Pomerol AOC:

  • larger, satellite,
  • yields slightly higher.
27
Q

Key facts about Côtes de Bordeaux AOC?

A
  • Red & White
  • created in 2009 for a group of appellations on Right Bank
  • Red: 55 hl/ha and
  • 52 hl/ha if commune name is appended.
  • Communes that may append their name:
    • Blaye; Cadillac; Castillon; Francs
28
Q

Key facts Côtes de Bourg AC known for?

A
  • Right Bank
  • Similar appellation to Cotes de Bordeaux AOC
  • Dominant - Merlot Wines similar to Medoc AOC style and price
  • Notable focus on Malbec 10%
29
Q

Key Facts Sauternes AOC, Barsac AOC

A

Key Facts Sauternes AOC, Barsac AOC

  • Sweet wines only are permitted typically Noble Rot
    • Mostly Semillon, then SB & small qty of Muscadelle
    • (80% plantings = Semillon)
  • Southern part of Graves
    • Located for ideal Noble rot conditions
    • cold Ciron River meets warmer Garonne River ~ morn mist, sunshine in pm
  • Sauternes AOC largest sweet wine appellation in Bordeaux (50% prod)
  • Barsac wine cb labelled Sauternes AOC or Barsac AOC
  • For both - yield limit 25 hl/ha (in reality much less realised)
  • VG - OS Q and mid - sprem price
  • Char: pron citrus peel, honey, trop fruit + vanilla from oak; f body; hi alc; m/m+ acid; sweet finish
  • Crisis: 30 years on lack of demand means producers turning to dry wines as source of income.
30
Q

What is the classic flavour profile from Sauternes AC wines?

A
  1. High alcohol and sweetness 2. Balanced with acidity 3. Flavour characteristics of apricot, botrytis, honey and vanilla
31
Q

Bordeaux - Other Sweet Wine Appellations (besides Sauternes and Barsac)

A

Both Banks!!

  • Examples on right bank:
    • Sainte-Croix-du-Mont AOC & Loupiac AOC - 40 hl/ha
    • Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux AOC 45 hl/ha
    • May be Noble Rot or late harvest
  • G - VG Q and inexp - mid price
32
Q

Graves Classification Facts

A
  • 1959
  • based on pricing, fame, quality
  • Judged by tasting 16 classified chateaux (red,white,both)
  • All in Pessac Leognan
  • Simple list, no sub-divisions
33
Q

Saint Emilion classification - key facts

A
  • 1955,
  • revised at approx 10 yr intervals
  • Chateaux judged on terroir, mth of prod, reputation, commercial considerations, and tasting of at least 10 vintages
  • Three tiers
    • Premier Grand Cru A
    • Premier Grand Cru B
    • Grand Cru Classe
  • The revision of 2012 still stands
  • The classification only applies to some wines in the Saint Emilion Gand Cru AOC
    • (not everything labelled with Saint-Emilion AOC/GR Cru AOC is classified)
34
Q

What is Cru Bourgeios du Medoc?

A

1932

  • Cru Bourgeois - a level below Cru Classe of the 1855 classification but still superior quality

2010

  • revised Cru Bourgeois label awarded to ind wines rather than chateaux - mark of quality
  • Any property in Medoc may apply

From 2018

  • chateaux will be classified as one of 3 tiers of quality (as was done in the past:
    • Cru Bourgeois,
    • Cru Bourgeois Superieur
    • Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
    • Classification will last for 5 years.
35
Q

Classification - Pomerol AOC

A

Only top quality appellation that has no classification system. Yet some estates have the highest reputation “Petrus”

36
Q

Classification Controversy

A
  • Saint-Emilion challenged/discredited
  • Use of “Grand Cru” considered misleading by many from outside the region
  • Graves classification due for revision, many hiQ estates not included - but proprietors fear repetition of the Saint-Emilion controversy/discredit
37
Q

Bordeaux Wine Business

A
  • 7000 chateaux - consolidation is taking place,
    • ave estate size increasing now >19ha
  • Annual production generally >800m bottles
  • Co-ops play important role - acc for 25% of prod / 40% of grape growers
  • Vast maj of wines inexp& mid price
    • Bordeaux 48%
    • Cotes de Bordeaux 18%
    • Medoc & Graves 18%
    • Libournais 11%
    • Dry whites 8%
    • Sweet whites 3%
  • Cost/b to produce: (excl loans/land cost)
    • Bordeaux €0.57;
    • Medoc estate €2.35
    • Classed growth €16 (vine density, low yield/selective use; harvest cost; viti-costs; barrel ageing & barrels)
  • Classifications have been useful - but the world has adopted different methods of communicating quality to customers - e.g. the Parker Points
38
Q

Bordeaux Markets

A
  • €4bill
  • approx 56% sold in France, of which 48% in smarkets - ave price €5.80.
  • Exports 44% vol, 52% val
    • Hong Kong, CHina, USA, UK
39
Q

Describe La Place de Bordeaux

A

Commercial system:

  • few prod sell directly
  • Wine sold to merchant (negociant ) (this acc for 70% sales)
  • Negociant sells to wholesalers/retailers
  • Relationship between Producer and Negociant (15%comm) handled by Courtier (2% comm)
    • (The comm is based on price the Chateau receives)
  • Prod sell to merchants to ensure their wines are distributed across the key countries around the world
  • No of cases purchased by Negociant is managed by allocation - he is allotted a % of prod every vintage (good and less good)

By Contrast:

  • The cheaper Bordeaux wine (little or no global demand as great quality from Chile and Aus) is made in Co-ops,
  • sold directly to large wine co’s and retailed in French Smarket
40
Q

Describe the “En Primeur” system

A
  • Classed growth/high quality wines sold as “Futures” before finished/bottled
  • Small quantities released in tranches, starting the April (spring) after harvest
    • First round : Barrel samples are tasted and assessed; prices released May/June - this establishes base price (market testing ~ how much are people prepared to pay?)
    • Price (usually) increases with each tranche over next months
      • Trade buyers decide what /how much to buy; journalists publish scores/reviews to guide consumers
      • The final customer orders through fine wine merchants
  • Wines are on allocation to the Negociants
    • the allocation is static and holds for better and less good vinatages which may result in wine staying unsold for some years, depending onthe vintage
    • Sold ex-cellar, bottled wine delivered to Retailer 1 year later;
      • Storage of wine is secure and appropriate (ac)
      • Buyer takes care of taxes (own country)
  • Buyer decides whether to have the wine stored, delivered, or sold on (mostly First Growths in secondary market)
41
Q

What does a Négociant do in Bordeaux?

A
  • Negociants sell about 70% of the wine from Bordeaux - to wholesalers or retailers.
  • Buys, blends and sells generic wines in bulk or bottle, also under own label
  • Buys individual château wines to trade in bulk or in bottle at different maturity levels to key markets around the world
  • Quantities per Negociant are controlled by an allocation system, which allocates the Negociant a certain % of every vintage.
42
Q

What is a ‘Courtier’

A

Courtiers act as brokers between Chateaux (producers) and Negociants (merchants) for a percentage of the price.

43
Q

Advantages / Disadvantages of “En Primeur”

A

Advantages

  • Estate:
    • Test the market early with lower priced tranche
    • Early payment and roi, finances next vintage
  • Customer:
    • Secure sought after wines at theor. lowest price
    • Option to keep or trade

Disadvantage

  • Estate
    • Potentially sold at lower price than bottled wine would attract
    • Potential for mismanagement by Neg. and damage to estate reputation
  • Customer
    • Wines bought on basis of 3rd party opinions
    • Negociant/intermediary may go out of bus before wine arrives
    • Price may fall (economy/subs bad vintages), and customer loses on the deal.
44
Q

Describe the breakdown of the Cru Classes of Bordeaux,

Name the Premier Crus

A

There are 61 Cru Classés in the Médoc

62 is Ch d’Yquem in Graves - special category “Premier Cru Superieur”

5 First Growths (premieres crus)

  • Château Latour (Pauillac)
  • Château Lafite (Pauillac)
  • Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac)
  • Château Margaux Château (Margaux)
  • Château Haut-Brion (Graves)

14 Second growths or crus (deuxièmes crus)

14 Châteaux classified as Third Growths or Troisièmes Crus)

10 fourth growths (quatriémes crus)

18 Fifth Growths (Cinquièmes Crus)

45
Q

What are Garage Wines from Bordeaux?

A
  • Unclassified wines
  • Mostly found on the right bank
  • Tiny quantities of wines made with no expense spared in vineyards or winery
  • Full bodied, concentrated wines with moderate acidity, soft tannins and rich berry fruit and spice
  • Low yielding vines produce super ripe grapes
  • Aged in oak, giving toasty flavours and complexity
  • Prices are high as quantities are tiny
  • Popularity included by US wine critic Robert Parker in mid 1990/ and now declining in importance