19. Southern Italy Flashcards
High level summary of key regions in S Italy
Campania - Taurasi DOCG, *Aglianico*; *Greco*, *Fiano*
- Between Med Sea and Appenines
- Mod by alt. on west face slopes 200-600m; Aut rain risk for late ripe var.
- Frost on valley floor
Puglia - *Primitvo*, *Nero di Troia*
- In the heel - 3 sides ocean, wind, hot (low fung disease)
- Hi Vol
Basilicata - *Aglianico*
- Mountainous area (Appenines)
- Most wine IGT simple / BUT HiQ from Aglianico del Vulture DOC
Sicily - *Cataratto, Zibibo*, *Nero d’Avola* / Etna - *Nerello; Carricante*
- Warm Med - but altitude on Etna
Sardinia - *Cannonau* (GNoir) & *Carignano* (Carignan); *Vermentino*
- Mod from hills open to sea (cooler) windy - dries (transpiration)
- Irrig needed
The Campania Story
Special climate/aspects
Special Var
Special DO’s
Natural Factors
- Between Appenines and Med Sea.
- Best on slopes 200-600m >> limestone and clay >>
- Face west so warm days, cool mountain air+ wind off the sea - moderate + diurnal range
- Two whites and a REd to Remember
- Varieties most late ripe (long seas) and susc aut rain
Soils:
- Limestone & clay - Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Taurasi
- Volcanic, sandy - Campi Flerei (Falanghina, Piedirosso) , Vesuvio (Coda di Volpe, Piedirosso)
Greco “Greco di Tufo DOCG ~ *limestone & Clay, drain & retain*
- Susc to fungal dis, tole drough, heat, suits warm
- Low vigour, low yield, Long hang for depth of flaovur
- deep lemon, floral, stone fr, smoky, hi alc, oily texture most unoaked
- honey, mushrooms with bottle age.
Fiano “Fiano di Avelliono” Sandy soil - lighter / clay weightier wine
- Sus to mildew, thick skin resists rot (late ripe)
- m-/m in floral, peach, hazelnut.
- m/m+ body, m/m+ acid, waxy texture - most SS, small qty oak
- honey, and wax from bottle age
Aglianico
- Early Bud - Late Ripe
- Vigorous - cont for Q
- m+/pron rose, red plum blackberry, hi acid, hi tann, hi alc,
- long maceration 20 days
- age in small barres, some new, large oak, plust bottle age
- 3yrs age, 12m wood
- Riserve = 4 years age, 18m wood
Most exports to USA
TAURASI DOCG in Campania,
also Aglianico del Vulture DOCG in Basilicata [volcanic mntn soil]
The Campania Story
Special climate/aspects
Special Var
Special DO’s
Natural Factors
- Between Appenines and Med Sea.
- Best on slopes 200-600m >> limestone and clay >>
- Face west so warm days, cool mountain air+ wind off the sea - moderate + diurnal range
- Two whites and a REd to Remember - all 70hl/ha
- Varieties most late ripe (long seas) and susc aut rain
- Frost risk at lower levels
Greco “Greco di Tufo DOCG ~ *limestone & Clay, drain & retain*
- Prone to rot, low vigour, yields. But suits warm, tolerates drought
- Long hang for depth of flaovur
- deep lemon, floral, stone fr, smoky, hi alc, oily texture most unoaked
- honey, mushrooms with bottle age.
Fiano “Fiano di Avelliono” Sandy soil - lighter / clay weightier wine
- Sus to mildew, thick skin resists rot (late ripe)
- m-/m in floral, peach, hazelnut.
- m/m+ body, m/m+ acid, waxy texture - most SS, small qty oak
- honey, and wax from bottle age
Aglianico - Taurasi DOCG
- Early Bud - Late Ripe
- Vigorous - cont for Q
- m+/pron rose, red plum blackberry, hi acid, hi tann, hi alc,
- long maceration 20 days
- age in small barres, some new, large oak, plust bottle age
- 3yrs age, 12m wood
- Riserve = 4 years age, 18m wood
Most exports to USA
TAURASI DOCG in Campania,
also Aglianico del Vulture DOCG in Basilicata [volcanic mntn soil]
Puglia Story
General
- Surrounded 3 sides by Mediterranean Sea
- Hot Mediterranean clim, mod breeze from sea, windy/dry > low fungal dis
- Suits vol prod
Soils: fertile, irrigation permitted
- Historically wines to cooler regions to add alc/body
- Today still lots of inexp wine, growers seek to raise Q and prices
Top 6 var grown
- (R) Sangiovese; Primitivo; Negroamaro; Montepulciano
- (W) Trebbiano Tosc; Trebbiano Giallo
Negroamaro
- Hi yield, good disease & drought resist., + retains acid >> suits warm climate
Salice Salentino DOC Yield 84hl/ha (lo conc)
- 75% Negroamaro reqd
- If var on label – 90% reqd
- Typ macerated 7 10 days
- Style: black plum, black cherry, m/h alc, m acid, m+ tann.
- Aged in SS (6m) – cheaper
- 12m in oak (mid – prem price)
- Riserva – aged 2yrs(6m wood)
- G / VG; Inexp – mid price, some prem
- Rosado also made- deep pink/orange col, popular in Summer
Primitivo (Zinfandel)
Primitivo di Manduria DOC Yield 63 hl/ha
- 85% Primitivo
- Aged 2.5 yrs (9m wood)
- Min 14%abv
Goia del Colla DOC Yield 52hl/ha
- 50-60% Primitivo,
- Blend with Montepulciano, Sangio. and/or Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia
- Riserva: age 2yrs (no wood reqmt), min 14% abv
Nero di Troia / Uva di Troia
- Late ripe (aut rain), Susc to DMD
- Uneven ripening > repeated passes to harvest
- Style: m int red cherry, redcurrant, black pepper, hi (fine) tann, m+ acid.
Castel del Monte DOC Yield 91hl/ha
- 90% Nero di Troia if var on label
- Aged 6m SS
-
DOCG/Riserva Yield 70hl/ha
- 24m ageing(12m in wood – FR barrique/large cask)
Business
- Large vol inexp wine - recently a drive for q with local var
- 10% PDO, rest “Vino”
- Co-op very nb – invest in equip – largest with scale to distribut both in Italy and abroad
Describe Primitivo of Puglia and winemaking techniques
Primitivo (Zinfandel)
- Hi yield, early bud (frost!), early ripe, early picked in Aug -avoid autumn rain.
- Susc to drought and poor flowering in wet/humid yrs
- Variable prod- challenge for growers (cashflow and customer supply)
- Loose bunch, small berry ~ more disease resistant than their CA cousins.
- Uneven ripe in bunch = sorting for hi Q wine.(cost)
- Grapes tend to dry on the vine as harvest approaches ~ high alc – jammy flav (harvest!)
- Old vines bush trained, lo density (shade) makes most of lo rain.
- New vines trellised - cordon or Guyot with VSP for mechanisation
Winemaking
- Simple: warm ferm, mace 7 – 10 days, 6m in SS or large cask
- Higher Q – longer maceration (tannin+) 12m 225l barrique f body and hi alc.
- Style: m+/pron int jammy red cherry, strawberry,(liquorice, dried berries / herbacious) m acid, m/m+ tann, A/G >> VG/OS
-
Top Producers:
- Gianfranco Fino “Primitivo di Manduria”
- Polvanera “Goia del Colle”
The Basilicata Story….
Aglianico del Vulture DOC Yield 70hl/ha
- Lies east of Monte Vulture (active volcano) at 600m
- Climate : warm Med, cool infl from altitude, and cool breeze from Balkans ~ hi diurnal range, extend ripening ~ hi flav/aroma int
-
Soils: Volcanic – drains, limestone, clay, retain.
- Thus wines have water despite only 550mm rain pa
- Harvest Octo – Nov
- Inc aged in French barrique, some new, rather than large oak
- Style : powerful red plum, blackberry, f body, hi acid, hi alc, hi tann, cap of ext bottle age
- G/OS mid – prem price
Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG Yield 52hl/ha,
- Min 3yrs ageing (12m oak)
- Riserva: 5yrs ageing (24m oak
Producers
- d’Angelo for DOCG
Elena Fucci for DOC, released 2yr after harvest
The Sicily Story
Main Var & DOCs
(ETNA is separate)
Formally IGT, bottled elsewhere, low std. Now focussing on Q
Top Var
- (W) Cataratto, Grillo
- (R) Nero d’avola
Growing Env, Grape Growing
- Climate : Warm Mediterranean,
- Microclimates – altitude (Mt Etna)
- Low rainfall necessitates irrigation esp in hi vol prod areas
Cataratto
- Hi yielding, dis resistant
- Style: L int lemon, herbal, hi acid, m alc.
- A/G Inexp
- Alcamo Bianco DOC Yield 84hl/ha (lo int)
- Min 60% Catarrato, bal of blend from other local var, or int var
Grillo
- Natural cross between Catarratto and Moscato
- Mod hi yields, heat resistant, good dis resis.
- Suits Sicily’s warm, dry climate (loses aroma, oxidises easily)
- Style : m int lemon, floral, m alc, hi acid, f body
- G/VG Inexp – mid price
- Producer Marco de Bartoli prod oak aged eg. prem price.
Zibibbo in this region (Musc of Alex)
- Intense sunlight heat, dry wind > only the most drought resist var can flourish
- Low bush vines in individual planting holes to conserve water and give prot from wind
- Style (1) Dry – ferm in SS, released early, retain aromatic Muscat char
- Style (2) Late harvest – picked a week later than for dry, ferm stopped to retain RS, for sweet style
-
Style (3) Passito – semi dried grapes, traditionally sun dried, high levels RS.
- Challenge is to bal sw- acid. Some pick early for acid – then dry 20/30 days
- Dried berries added to must of very ripe fruit picked end of season
- Passito wines are deep lemon, pron cooked orange, apricot, honey, Sw, hi alc.
- VG / OS prem – s-prem price
Top producer all 3 styles Donnafugata
Nero d’avola: Varietal/ Sicilia DOC/ also IGT & Vino
- late ripe, grown close to ground to max heat, but also grows in damper/cooler sites
- vigorous (lots of can mgt – cost)
- Susc PMD, and uneven flowering (yields)
-
Style : m/deep ruby, red cherry to black plum, m+/h tann, m/m+ acid
- Mod yields norm aged in small oak (G/OS Q)
- High yields stored 6m SS (A/G Q)
-
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 52hl/ha
- Nero d’Avola blended with Frappato
- Frappato adds strawberry, herbal, fresh red fruit
- 50 – 70% Nero d’avola, 30-50% Frappato
Wine Law & Reg
- Sicilia DOC large range var & blends
- Yield relatively high (allowed)
The Etna Story
Two main Grapes
Black: Nerello (2 types normally blended)
White: Carricante normally blended with Cataratto
Nerello Mascalese
- Altitude on Etna (400 – 1000m) It has a long season > int flavours
- Early bud (frost); late ripe (autumn rain);,
- susc to coulure, BBR, PMD
- Canopy mgmt tricky, leaf trim too early - berries sunburn, if too late, do not ripen (harsh tannin)
- Long maceration 15 days - 90 days for extraction (prod style)
- Style – Med/pale ruby (depends on extractions), pron int red cherry, violet, herbal earth, hi acid, m/h tann (depend onextraction) and high end of m alc.
Etna ROSSO DOC Yield 56hl/ha ~ VG/OS
- 80% Nerella Mascalese, bal Nerella Cappuccio which contr col and red berry fruit.
- Best from old vines 60-100 yrs old (lo yield - cost.)
- Most VY on mod/steep slopes – work by hand (cost)
- Usually aged large coasks or 500-600l barrels
- Riserva – 4yrs ageing (1 in wood)
Carricante
- Grows at up to 1000m, where black grapes would fail to ripen.
- Prone to common fungal diseases
- Large diurnal range ~ wines have hi acid – normally put through Malo C to soften + old oak for texture
- Style : med int lemon, green apple, h acid, m alc.
Etna BIANCA DOC
- 60% Carricante (better prod use 100%), bal from Catarratto.
- Lo vol >>(VG / OS) honey+wax with bottle age
Interesting story (Includes Etna)
Business
- Small no large and influential private companies
- Planeta, Donnafugata; Tasca d’Almerita –
- The 3 founders of the Assovini Sicilia
- promote Sicilian wine around the world
- org tastings of new releases (Sicilia en Primeur)
- Also nb co-ops – Settesoli
- Wide range – all Q inexp-s-prem price
- Etna Rosso pop in spec ret & wine bars
-
Only 20% of wine is bottled rest - bulk or blend partner other climates.
*
The Sardinia Story
Three Varieties?
Different Docs?
Top Var
- (B) Cannonau (Grenache Noir), Carignano (Carignan), Monica Nera**, Sangiovese
- (W) Vermintino, Nuragus**
**local consumption mainly
Climate: warm Mediterranean, low rain during growing season
- Adeq rain for growing in NW but low in SE makes irrig necessary
- Cool inf inc alt (hilly) + sites open to wind from sea which are drying, but vines less susc to fungal dis.
Vermintino (called Rolle in S France)
- Early bud (frost), mid ripe – less susc to aut rain
- Does best on sunny, exposed sites, poor soils
- Susc to DMD, Europ Grape Moth
Style: m int lemon, acacia aroma, if riper tropical fruit. L/m body, m alc, m+acid.
- Winemaking: gentle press, short period skin contact (24hrs), fermentation cool-mid range temps SS -ret prim fruit
- Short period ageing (3-4m), on lees, SS normal to retain delicate aromas
Vermintino di Sardegna DOC Yields 112hl/ha
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 63hl/ha (Top, NE Corder.)
Cannonau (Grenache Noir)
- Hi yield, Late ripe - (susc aut rain)
- Grows upright suits training as bush vine - Pruned to contain vigour
- Does well on dry, low fertility soils.
- Good drought resist, susc to coulure (yields), DMD, BBR, Phomopsis, bacterial blight (kills the plant, spread by inf tools).
- Can accum hi sugar quickly
Style : pale ruby col, ripe strawberry, red plum, red cherry, spicy and herbal notes, hi alc, l/m tann, l acid
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Yield 77hl/ha
- Classico – delimited zone -Yield 63hl/ha, (Aged 12m)
- Riserva ~ Aged 24m (6m wood)
- Top producers Sella & Mosca; Argiolas
Carignano (Carignan)
- Late bud , late ripen (needs long ripen season/warm clim)
- Hi yield – mb controlled for conc/q
- Susc to PMD, grape moths
- Not easy to mech- bunches attach firmly
- Var has hi acid and tann WMs often seek to soften with carbonic maceration or blending
- Style: Typ unoaked, m ruby col, simple blackberry fruit, h acid, hi tann
- From old vines, oaked, pron black fruit, spice, earth
- Bottom, SW corner hi temps, lo rain, dry wind
- Low fert sandy soil helps contain vigour.
- Trained bush (reqd for “Superiore” cat) (but trellised vine replacement cane + VSP or Cordon + spur pruned also used widely)
- Lim irrig allowed in growing period, not after veraison.
Carignano del Sulcis DOC – 77hl/ha (low conc)
- Superiore – 52.5 hl/ha
Winemaking :
- Inexp - ferm warm temps, 7-10d macerate, age 3-4m neutral vessel (cement/large oak)
- Higher Q (mid-prem price) macerate 15 days at warm ferm temps for full extraction col, flav, tann. Aged Fench oak barrique 12-18m
- Superiore / Riserva – 24m ageing
- G/VG , some O/S; inexp – prem price
Etna DOC is from which region?
Rosso based on which grapes?
Bianco based on which grapes?
Sicily
Rosso: min. 80% Nerello Mascalese, blended w/ Nerello Cappuccio
Bianco: min. 60% Carricante blended w/Catarratto
What is the DOCG of Campania made with Aglianico?
Taurasi DOCG
What is the topography of Campania?
Mountains, valleys and a coastal plain
What is the climate of Southern Italy, where are vines planted and how were / are vines trained?
Hot and dry inland and humid by the coast. Many vineyards on slopes of Apennines giving some altitude cooling, there are also sea breezes on the Puglia peninsula Vines were Bush trained but newer vines have cordon training and trellising to aid mechanisation
What is the topography of Basilicata What is the name of the local volcano Predominant grape? Local DOC?
Very mountainous to 900 metres
Monte Vulture Aglianico
Aglianico del Vulture DOC
