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Coastal Environments Processes and Management > 3: Beach Change > Flashcards

3: Beach Change Flashcards

1
Q

What determines whether a beach is defined as macrotidal or microtidal?

A

Microtidal means that they have a low tidal range relative to wave height whereas the opposite holds true for macrotidal beaches

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2
Q

What are 3 major things that are affected/changed from a macrotidal to a microtidal beach?

A

Swash, surf zone and shoaling

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3
Q

What are the 4 types of beach depending on their tidal range and what is the associated RTR of these beaches?

A 
Wave-dominated (RTR<3)
Tide-modified (RTR: 3-12)
Tide-dominated (RTR: 12-50)
Tidal flats (RTR>50)
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4
Q

How do you calculate relative tidal range?

A

Tidal range/Height of waves

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5
Q

What are the 3 types of tide-modified beaches?

A

Reflective + low tide terrace
Reflective + bars and rips
Ultra-dissipative

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6
Q

What are reflective + low tide terrace (tm) beaches characterised by?

A
  • most common
  • Steep cusps at high tide
  • Rips at low tide with a terrace before shoreline
  • RTR ~9
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7
Q

What are reflective + bars and rips (tm) beaches characterised by?

A
  • Highest energy
  • Coarser sand
  • Rips and scour channels
  • RTR~4
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8
Q

What are ultra-dissipative (tm) beaches characterised by?

A
  • Wide intertidal zone (200-400m)
  • Wide spilling surf zone
  • Plane beach
  • RTR~10
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9
Q

What are the 3 types of tide-dominated beaches?

A
  1. Beach + sand ridge flats
  2. Beach + sand flats
  3. Tidal sand/mud flats
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10
Q

What are beach + sand ridges (td) characterised by?

A
  • Steep cusped beach at high tide
  • Shore parallel ridges
  • Low gradient
  • RTR ~9
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11
Q

What are beach + sand flats (td) beaches characterised by?

A
  • Small steep high tide beach
  • intertidal sand flats
  • featureless apart from a few small wave ripples
  • RTR~20
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12
Q

What are tidal sand/mud flats and mud flats (td) characterised by?

A
  • Lowest energy
  • Small steep high tide beach
  • Sand/mud
  • RTR 30-50
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13
Q

What is not uncommonly found at the back of mud flats?

A

Mangroves

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14
Q

What are reflective + rock/reef flats characterised by?

A

Beach is overshadowed by large rocky outcrops just in front of the beach

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15
Q

Give an example of a reflective + rock/reef flat?

A

Ningaloo Reef

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16
Q

What are the 3 main controls upon what determines a beach type?

A

Wave height, sand size, relative tidal range

17
Q

What is the difference between littoral compartments and cells?

A

Compartments are larger essentially (e.g. pocket beach) whereas cells are essentially operating within or between compartments (e.g. rip currents, tidal inlets and submarine canyons)

18
Q

Who has adopted the idea of beach compartments and cells as a way of managing the coastline?

A

Australian government

19
Q

What are the 3 types of compartment outlined in Australian coastal planning?

A 
Primary = large landforms (e.g. headlands and river)
Secondary = sediment movement on shoreface within and between beaches
Tertiary = Sediment movements in the near shore area
20
Q

What is each compartment type adopted in the Australian government suitable for in terms of planning/managing?

A 
Primary = large scale engineering and strategic plans (e..g boating)
Secondary = regional planning and engineering decisions (e.g. housing)
Tertiary = detailed impact studies and local management plans for vulnerable areas
21
Q

What are 3 sediment sources and sinks within the secondary beach compartment? What are 2 examples of where things are both?

A 
Sources = Biogenic sources (e.g. reef critters) and alongshore source and anthropogenic
Sinks = lagoon sink, dune sink, alongshore sink
Both = surf zone and shoreface
22
Q

What is defined as a leaky beach?

A

prominent influence of longshore drift

23
Q

What is defined as a closed beach?

A

The beach system is relatively closed with little input/output

24
Q

What beach has been identified as a major leak?

A

Kingscliff

25
Q

What has the Kingscliff leakage inspired?

A

Tweed River Bypass Scheme

26
Q

What is beach rotation?

A

When depending on the conditions at the time, sediment can be transported from one end of the beach to the other but this can later switch in response to a stimulant that results in the sediment being transported/removed back the other way hence rotation.

27
Q

What is a good paper that talks about beach rotation?

A

Ranasinghe et al. (2004)

Coastal Environments Processes and Management (14 decks)

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