2.5 Fabric construction and serviceability

Question 1

aesthetic properties

Answer 1

The construction of a fabric obviously has a great influence on the aesthetic properties of a fabric. Woven, knitted and non woven fabrics all look different from one another, and within a particular type of fabric, the construction method will also have an influence – for example, plain versus rib knit or plain versus satin weave. The interaction of various factors makes a fabric appear soft or stiff, dull or lustrous, sheer or bulky, heavy or light, rough or smooth – and fabric choice depends largely on the requirements of the end use.

Question 2

durability

Answer 2

Fabric construction is an important factor in durability and appearance retention. In general, plain knit fabrics and plain weaves are more durable than complicated constructions. Fabrics with medium to high yarn counts are usually more durable than those with low yarn counts; however, this is influenced by the yarn construction and fibre type. Firm, closely woven plain and simple twill weaves are stronger than loose weaves such as satin. However, weaves with long floats often have higher tearing strength because the floats allow easy slippage of the yarns. Because of snagging and lower abrasion resistance, satin weaves are less durable than plain and twill weaves. Knit and woven fabrics which have a more open construction with loosely twisted yarns are more likely to pill because there is a greater probability of fibres being pulled out. Weft knits are subject to runs when a yarn is broken; and the runs spread more rapidly when the fibres and yarns are smooth. Weft-knit fabrics can be easily distorted because the loops can be made to slip and alter shape. Woven and knit fabrics may be susceptible to relaxation shrinkage or felting shrinkage, depending on fibre type. Non wovens may be durable or disposable, depending on the planned usage.

Question 3

Comfort

Answer 3

Comfort, like appearance, will vary according to the requirements of end use. Fabric construction can influence properties such as air permeability, heat conductivity, moisture absorption, wicking, weight per unit area and fabric thickness.

Question 4

Care

Answer 4

Fabric construction also impacts on care. Fabrics with long floating yarns, or those constructed from fancy yarns, can be damaged during cleaning. Sheer leno weave fabrics are easier to maintain than sheer fabrics of plain weave. Pile fabrics may require brushing to remove lint from the surface, and those that can be tumble dried look better after tumble drying because the dryer action tends to raise the pile. The appearance of tufted fabrics can also be maintained by tumble drying. Knitted fabrics may need only a minimum of ironing, but may require reshaping to retain size and appearance after laundering. Fragile fabrics such as laces may require special handling and nonwoven fabrics may require specialised cleaning methods. For all washable fabrics, it is imperative to follow the care label instructions to maintain serviceability.