2.1 Woven fabrics Flashcards
Dobby weave:
A dobby fabric made with a dobby attachment and characterised by small geometric- type designs
Float:
A portion of a warp or filling yarn that extends over two or more adjacent filling yarns to produce a design or a satin surface
Harness:
A frame that holds the heddles in position in a loom; it allows for the raising or lower- ing of groups of yarns to form the shed for weaving
Heddles:
A cord, thin metal strip or metal wire with a hole near the centre through which the warp yarn is threaded
Jacquard:
The original Jacquard attachment which allowed individual control of each warp yarn to permit the construction of highly complex woven designs; today the term is used to describe complex designs in both woven and knitted fabrics
Leno weave:
A firm open-weave fabric in which pairs of warp yarns are twisted around each other between each filling yarn
Loom:
A machine used to weave fabrics
Pile weave:
A weave in which an additional set of warp or filling yarns is interlaced to form the pile or raised effect
Plain weave:
The simplest of the three basic weaves, in which each filling yarn passes successively
over and under each single warp yarn in alternating rows
Satin weave:
One of the three basic weaves characterised by floats that run in the warp direction on the face in such a manner as to reflect light, producing gloss, lustre or shine
Shed:
The opening, created by harness movement, between sheets of warp yarns through which filling yarns are passed
Shuttle:
A boat-shaped device that carries the filling yarn back and forth across the shed
Twill weave:
One of the three basic weaves in which yarns are interlaced in such a way that they create a dominant diagonal line
Warp yarns:
Yarns that run parallel to the selvage, that is, in a lengthwise direction of the fabric (also called ends)
Weft yarns:
Yarns that run perpendicular (at right angles) to the warp yarns and selvage of the fabric (also called filling yarns, picks or woof yarns)
Ravelling:
A thread or yarn that has become separated from a woven fabric
The kit contains the following:
(1) a technical manual
(2) a glossary
(3) cross-reference fabric swatches
2.1.2 Basic weaves
Plain weave
This is the simplest and also the least expensive weave type. The weft threads pass over and under one warp thread alternately. Plain weave fabrics are more snag resistant but wrinkle more, and have a lower tear strength compared to the other basic weaves. The two sides of the fabric look the same – there is thus no difference between the face or back of the fabric. Examples of cloth woven in plain weave are muslin, percale, calico, cheesecloth, gingham, batiste, lawn, organdy, handkerchief linen and chiffon.
Variations of plain weave
Basketweave
Riborcord weave
Basket weave
Basket weave is a type of plain weave with two or more warp yarns interlaced as a unit with two or more filling yarns. Examples are monk’s cloth, Hardanger cloth, Oxford cloth and hopsack.
Riborcord weave
This is also a variation of plain weave. Heavy yarns are used in either the warp or filling direction, or by grouping yarns in specific areas of the warp or filling, or by having more warp yarns than filling. Examples are broadcloth, poplin, faille, bengaline, grosgrain, dimity and Bedford cloth.
Twill weave
Twill-weave fabrics are characterised by a diagonal line on the surface of the fabric. The yarns in twill fabrics are usually tightly packed, producing a strong and durable cloth. They are more expensive to produce than plain weaves. Twill weaves are more wrinkle resistant, more resistant to soiling and showing soil, heavier, and have a more pliable drape and hand compared to plain weave fabrics. They are, however, more prone to ravelling. The prominence of the twill line depends to some extent on the length over which the yarns ”float” across each other. Twill fabrics have either a left- or right-hand diagonal and they can be weft-faced (more weft yarns floating on the face), warp-faced (more warp yarns floating on the face) or balanced (warp and weft equally prominent). In the simplest twill weave, the filling crosses over two warp yarns and then under one, over two, under one, and so on. In the next row, the sequence begins one yarn further on. There are a number of types of twill weaves, herringbone twill being one of them.
Examples of twill weave
chino, drill, denim, gabardine, serge, surah, wool sharkskin, some flannel and some tweeds.
Satin weave
Satin fabrics have long floats on the surface. A float is a portion of a warp yarn that ex- tends over two or more adjacent filling yarns. These long floats reflect light and create a shiny and smooth appearance. Satin fabrics are also frequently used as lining fabrics as they easily slip over other fabrics. Satin fabrics are not as durable as plain or twill weaves because the floats are easily snagged. Examples of satin weaves are antique satin, slipper satin, bridal satin, sateen and moleskin. A satin is a warp-faced fabric, whereas sateen is a weft-faced fabric.
2.1.3 Complex weaves
Dobby weaves Jacquard weave Leno or gauze weave Pile weaving Double weave
Dobby weaves
Dobby weaves have small designs, such as dots or geometric patterns. The designs are angular and repetitive; even floral designs appear geometric. A dobby loom can have as many as 24 to 40 harnesses. Dobby designs are always small and do not make use of long floats. Examples of dobby weave are birdseye, huckaback and piqué.
Jacquard weave
Fabrics such as damask, brocatelle and brocade, which have highly complicated woven designs, are woven on Jacquard looms. The Jacquard mechanism (named after its inven- tor, the Frenchman Joseph Jacquard) can lift one or more warp yarns independently of the others. The pattern to be woven is punched out on cards, reminiscent of computer punch cards or the cards used for machine knitting. Today the Jacquard loom is controlled by computer and not by cards. Bear in mind that a Jacquard fabric does not have holes in it; the holes are in the cards which control which warp yarn will be lifted.
Note the differences between brocade and damask.
Damask is a reversible fabric with a figured design on a satin-weave background, usually only in one colour. It is flatter than brocade. Brocade has a more prominent, raised design on the front with the coloured yarns not being used carried as long floats on the back of the fabric. Brocade, unlike damask, has only one right side.
Tapestry-like fabrics are also made on Jacquard machines. These fabrics have highly patterned designs on the face with the same designs, but in a different colour, on the back.
Tapestry-likefabric,frontandback
The Jacquard principle is used for weaving, knitting and lace making.
Leno or gauze weave
In leno weave, pairs of warp yarns are twisted around each other between filling yarns. Examples are grenadine, marquisette and interlock embroidery canvass.
Pile weaving
A woven pile fabric has an extra set of warp or weft yarns interlaced with the ground warp and weft in such a way that loops or cut ends stand up densely on the surface of the fabric. Note that weaving is not the only way in which a pile fabric can be created. It can also be done by tufting, knitting or sew-knitting, but then we cannot talk of pile weaving.
In some pile fabrics, such as velveteen and corduroy, an extra set of weft yarns floats over three or more warp yarns. After the fabric has been woven, these floats are cut and brushed to form a pile. In other pile fabrics such as velvet, velour and Wilton and Axminster rugs, the pile is formed from an additional set of warp yarns.
Warp pile fabrics can be made by any one of three methods:
(1) the wire-cut pile method, (2) the looped pile or terry cloth method, or (3) the double-weave method.
Double-weave fabrics
Double-weave fabrics consist of two sets of warp yarns, two sets of weft yarns, and some- times, a fifth set of yarns that holds the two layers together. Warp-pile fabrics such as velvet are often constructed as a double-weave fabric.
